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T     R     A     V     E     L    S 


THROUGH     THE 


INFERIOR    PARTS 


OF 


AMERICA 


SERIES    OF    LETTERS. 


■^vRRSaSS^R^"^ 


E  Y     AN     OFFICE  R. 


Tl    8^5     «»    TJ?  EtTTOlf      T«lyra    KtyAq  Vi'iMV    l/VV   J 

DemOSTH.  OLXKttf, 


VOL.       I, 
■     ', .11 


LONDON: 
Printed  for  WILLIAM  LANE,  Leatknhall- Street. 


M  DCCL^kXXIX. 


■Dar,, 

V,  I 


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TO  THE  RIGHT  HONORABLE  THE 

EARL     OF    HARRINGTON, 

VISCOUNT   PETERSHAM, 

AND 

COLONEL  OF  THE   TWENTY-NINTH- 
REGIMENT  OF  FOOT. 

MY   LORD, 

JJAVING    had    the    honor    to 

i'erve   under    your    Lordihip, 

it^  was  my   fortune,     in   common 

with   all    who    were  in   the  fame 

--rr>^  fltua- 


^ 


•  80OI) 


QpOOl 


in) 

lituation,  to  become  attached 
to  your  Lordiliip  by  perfonal 
obligations;  and  it  is  a  confe- 
quence  which  I  hope  will  be 
thought  equally  natural,  that  I 
fliould  take  this  occalion  to  ac- 
knowledge them. 

In  laying  before  the  Public  un- 
common fcenes  of  difficulty,  dan- 
ger and  diftrcfs,  I  might  be  further 
tempted,  had  I  talents  for  the 
undertaking,  to  particularize  the 
unremitting  fortitude,  which,  in 
feveral  of  the  m.oft  trying  in- 
ftances,  diftinguifhed  your  Lord- 
fhip's  condud: :  but  examples  of 
bravery,  though  none  can  be  more 
confpicuous  than  thofe  your  Lord- 
fhip  fhewed,  abound  in  every  clafs 
of    a    Briiifh    army  :      more    rare 

tliough 


(     iii     ) 

though  not  lefs  worthy  of  imita- 
tion, is  the  fort  of  attachment 
your  Lordlhip  has  always  fhewn 
to  your  corps. 

It  has  been  your  praife,  my  Lord, 
when  but  of  the  field,  to  forego 
the  pleafures  which  high  rank, 
fortune,  youth,  and  accomplifh- 
ments  opened  to  your  view,  and 
to  brave  the  feverity  of  climate, 
through  tedious  v/inters,  in  mere 
military  fellowfhip. 

In  retired  quarters,  you  found 
the  care  of  your  men  to  be  at 
once  the  true  preparation  for  your 
country's  fervice,  and  a  moft 
gratifying  enjoyment  to  your  own 
benevolence  :   while  on  their  parts, 

they 


(     iv     ) 

they  confidered  their  leader  as  their 
beft  friend  and  benefador.  Dif- 
cipline  was  thus  placed  upon  a  bafis 
that  mechanical  valor  can  never 
eflablifhj  upon  a  principle  worthy 
of  troops  who  can  think  and  feel, 
confidence,  and  gratitude. 

Duly  impreffed  with  thefe  and 
many  other  of  your  virtues — many 
more  than  you  would  permit  me 
to  enumerate ;  I  have  the  honor 
to  be  * 

My  Lord, 
Your  Lordfhip's  moft  obedient, 
And  moft  devoted 
Humble  Servant, 

THOMAS  ANBUREY. 


PREFACE, 


^TpHE  following  letters  were  written  to 
■■•  gratify  private  friendfliip,  and  would 
never  have  been  intruded  upon  the  Public, 
but  from  the  entreaties  of  fome  of  the 
moil  refpe6lable  Subfcribers  to  the  Work, 
who  flattered  the  Author,  that  as  they 
contained  much  authentic  information, 
relative  to  America,  little  known  on  this 
fide  of  the  Atlantic,  they  could  not  fail  of 
being  intereiling  to  the  Public. 

Their 


[     vi     ] 

Their  ftyle  and  manner  will  clearly 
evince  them  to  be  the  a6lual  refult  of  a 
familiar  correfpondence,  and  by  no  means 
void  of  thofe  inaccuracies  neceflarily  arif- 
ing  from  the  rapid  efFufions  of  a  confef- 
fedly  inexperienced  Writer,  which  will 
fcarcely  be  wondered  at,  by  thofe  who 
confider  how  Widely  different  are  the  qua- 
lifications neceffary  to  form  the  Soldier 
and  the  Author. 

Every  thing  the  Reader  may  meet  with 
will  not  appear  ilriclly  noiroelle ;  but  this 
is  a  circumflance  unavoidably  attending 
the  writer  of  a  tour  through  a  country, 
which  has  been  already  the  fubje6l  of  fo 
much  difculTion;  but  there  are  certainly 
many  new  circumftances  related,  w^hich 
will  ferve  to  point  out  the  true  characler 
and  manners  of  the  Americans. 

The 


[     vii     ] 

The  fa(5ls  came  within  his  own  know- 
ledge, or  are  fupported  by  fome  honour- 
able authority  J  and  his  motto  has  ever 
been. 


•———Nothing  ejctenuate. 
Nor  fet  down  aught  in  Malice. 

They  will  ftrike  every  man  with  the 
greater  force,  after  the  evident  partiality 
of  a  late  Author,  who  has  been  led  to 
reprefent  the  Favorers  of  Independence 
as  pofTefled  of  every  amiable  qualification, 
and  thofe  who  efpoufed  the  rights  of  the 
Mother" Country,  as  deftitute  of  common 
feelings,  and  humanity  itfelf. 

The  Author,  fenfible  how  much  thofe 
Subfcribers,  whofe  generofity  has  exceeded 
the  limits  of  the  fubfcription,  would  be 
hurt  by  a  particular  difliindion,  co- 
jointly  renders  them  thofe  thanks, 

"  Which  the  tried  heart  that  feeli  alone  can  give." 


DIRECTIONS  FOR.  PLACING  THE  PLATES. 

VOL.   I. 

Map  of  America,  oppofite  the  Title  Page  Facing  Page 

View  of  St.  John's,  upon  the  River  Sorrell         -  -          136 

The  SedioQ  and  Plan  of  a  Blockhoufe         •        -  •        1 38 

Indian  Warrior              ...              *  .             agi 

View  of  the  Blockhoufe  and  Saw  Mill     -         •  •         350 

View  of  the  Encampment  at  Still  Water         •  »          433 

V  O  L.       II. 

American  Continental  Dollars         .        .        ;  i          40* 


View  of  the  Encampment  of  the  Conveation  Arn:y,  at     7 
Charlottefville  -  •  -  -      J 


443 


SUBSCRIBERS 

T  O 
THE      WORK. 


HIS  ROYAL  HIGHNESS — THE  DUKE  OF  YORK 

HIS  ROYAL  HIGHNESS — PRINCE  WILLIAM  HENRY 

HIS  ROYAL  HIGHNESS THE  DUKE  OF  GLOUCESTER. 

HIS  ROYAL  HIGHNESS — THE  DUKE  QF  CUMBERLANQ 


H, 


.IS  Grace 'The  Duke  of  Argyle 

The  Right  Hon. The  Earl  of  Altamant 

The  Right  Hon Lord  Audley 

The  Hon.  Lady Harriet  Ackland 

His  Excellency- -Baron  D'Alvenfleben 

THE    ROYAL    REGIMENT   OF    ARTILLERY: 

Lieut.  Col.  Walker 
■  Johnfton 


SUBSCRIBERS. 


Klajor    Williams 

-, Lemoine 

■     '     ■■■  Blomefield 


Captain  Houghton 

Dyfart 

f-  — r— \Vi!lington 

tm — .  —. —  vVh  it  worth 

, — < Collier 

Remington 

— — Howarth 

Hadderj 

iJeut    Reed 

_  Neville 

Sutton 


Surgeon  Mr,  Wild 

Major  Affleck, -Portland-Street 

Capt.  Armftror.g,  (8  Regt.  of  Foot) 

James  Abel,  Efq Cloak-Lane 

John  AdJms,  Efq. 

Alexander  Adair,  Efq. Pall  Mall 

Mrs.  Towers  Allen, — Qiiecn's- Square 

Mr.  A.  C.  Arnold, — Loweitoft' 

Mr.  Rd.  Aldridge, Briftol 

|vlr.  Wm.  Auftm, -Idol-Lane 

Ainfley's   Library, Edinburgh 

Andrews's  Library, VVorgcilef 

Mr.  Axtell, r-lCornhill 

James  P.  Andrews,  Efq. 

Amicable  Society, Northampton 


The  Rt,  Hon.-- — r-ThcEarl  of  Buckinghamfhire 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Barrymore 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Balcarres 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Countefs  of  Balcarres 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Breadalbane 

The  Rt.  Hon. Vifcount  Barrington 

The  Rt.  Hon. Vilcount  Beauchamp 

The  Rt.  Hon. -Lord  Brow^ilow 


SUBSCRIBERS^ 

, ^  Crnddyll,  Efq. 

Mrs.  Bruddyll 

Sir  Robert  Barker,  Bart. 

Sir  William  Augultus  Brown,  Bart. 

Richard  Beiiyon,  Efq.  M.  i\ 

(jcneral  Burgoyne 

Dr.  Brocklefby,  — — Norfolk: -Street 

Lieut.  Col.  Bovvyer,  (6b  Reizt.) 

Capt.  Bell,  (i9Reot.) 

Lieut.  Col.  Baillie,  Edinburgh 

Capt.  Bowen,  Lidependeiit  Comp. 

Capt.  Barrette, Doncaiter,  (iOO,Regt.) 

Lieut.  Budworth,   (72Re2;t.) 
Richard  Barwell,  Eiq.  M^  P. 

Blomfield,  Efq. 

Johri  Bax,  Efq. ?re{lon,  Kent 

John  Benjafield,  Efq. Parliament-Street 

Thomas  iJeardmore,  Efq. — —Temple 

Mr.  John  Berry, Canterbury-Square 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Bowcher, Piccadilly 

George  Biggins,  Efq.  Effex -Street 

Ynvr  Burgefs,  Efq. Eafl  India  Hcufe 

The  Rev.  Dr.  Bate, Walton 

Lieut.  Bartlet,  (Royal  Engineeri) .Chatham 

Mr.  pjroughton, Treafury 

Mr.  John  Breadhower, Portfmouth 

Mr.  Barnikle, Plymouth 

Mr.  Burtenfhaw's  Library, Brightheandcns 

Thomas  Bov.-es,  Efq. 

Mr.  Bull's  Library,— Bath 

Mr.  Thomas  Batchc-lor, Brillol 

Mr.  Beazelcy, Blaci:-Fr::;rs  Road 

Mr.  J.  B.  Becket, Briftol 

John  Bourchier,  Efq. Ipfwich 

Mr^.  Barrukel 

Rob.  Barrett,  Efq. London 

Capt.  Arthur  Buitell, Marines 

James  Bet[<^,  Efq. 'cflex-Street 

Wm.  Butler,  Efq. -Grille- Scree  t . 

Mr.  Baker's  Library, ►iroutirin  ptort 

Mr.  Barry's  Litrary, iiuitin^s 


1SUBSCRIBERS. 


The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Chefterfield 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Carlifle 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Cholmondeky 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Camden 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Cavan 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Craven 

l^he  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Clifford 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Carberry 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Cathcart 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Fred.  Campbell 

Sir  Wm.  Clerke,  Bart. 
Sir  Hy.  Gough  Calthorpe, 
Sir  Henry  Clinton,  K.  B. 

General  Chriltie, Leicefter- Square 

Major  Campbell,  (24  Regt.  of  Foot) 
Capt.  Cotter,  (103  Regt.) 
Bryan  Cooke,  Efq. 
Mrs.  Cooke 

V/m.  Cowden,  Efq. Meiile 

Ralph  Clayton,  Efq. 

.Richard  Crofts,  Efq. Pall  Mall 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Cove, Heiilone 

Mrs.  Cafement, ditto 

James  Crov/dy,  Efq. Swindon,  Wilts 

iVlr.  Jos.  Colborne,  Surgeon, Brentwood 

Mr.  Edm,  Cotterell, ^Cold  Bath  Fields 

Mr.  James  Cooper, Swidiin's-Lans 

Dr.  Cockall 

Mr.  Thomas  Conder, Alderfgate -Street 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Crutwcll, Oakingham 

James  Cobb,  Efq. Eaft  Lidia  Houfe 

Mr.  Crawford's  Library, Brighthelmflone 

Jos.  Chew,  Efq.  Sec.  fur  India  Affairs, North  America 

William  Curtis,  Efq. London 

Lieut.  Crichton,  (31  Regt.) — — Gofport 
J.  Croft,  Efq. 


SUBSCRIBE  R  S. 


D  _ 

His  Grace— -—The  Duke  of  Devonfliire  ""."'. 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Derby 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Dartmouth 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Donegal  ^'" 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Countefs  of  Darnley 

The  Rt.  Hon. Vifcount  Duncannon 

The  Rt   Hon. Vifcount  Dalrymple 

The  Rt.  Hon, iLord  Ducie  -— 7    •  -  -^'iT 

The  Rt.  Hon. — -Lord  Dorchefter .*  :!  ■.-A  uriT 

Colonel  Dundas  ""  j'-m'I 

Lieut.  Will.  Dalton,  (Royal  Navy) Rotherhlthe       ;  i 

Lieut.  Col.  Delancey,  Margaret- Street,  Gavendifli-Square 
Major  Dalrymple,  (49  Regt.  of  Foot) 

Capt.  Duncan  >  ** 

Richard  Dowding,  Efq. Shadwell 

Mr.  George  Dixon,— —Wooburne 

Mr.  John  DeW) Shenfield 

Mr.  B.  U.  Dovvfon, Geldefton 

The  Rev.  D.  Davies, Macclesfield 

Dulot  and  Owen's  Library,- Brighthelmflon^ 

Mefi".  Downes  and  March, -Yarmouth  ""2"" 

The  Rev.  H.  Bate  Dudley,  Bradv/eil  ""_'' 

Rich.  Jles  Dimfdale,  Efq.  _"/[ 


E 

The  Rt.  Hon.—- The  Earl  of  Effingham 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Eglingt-ouue 

The  Rt.  Hon, The  Earl  of  Eufion 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Elphinftone 

Sir  James  Erfkine,  Bart. Cavendifh-Square 


THE    ROYAL    ENGINEERS, 

Major  General  Sir  William  Greene,  Bart« 
Lieut.  Col.  Moncrief 
Capt,  Twifs 


AJJ 


S  U  B  S  C  R  I  B  E  R.  b^ 

Capt.  Rudyard 
Lieut.  Beatfon 
— —  Courture 
— —  Bartlett 

Mrs.  Edgar, Percy-Street 

Mrs,  Edwards,— -—Savage-Gardens 
Mr.  Thomas  Evans, Minories 


The  Rt.  Hon.  The  Earl  of  Fauconberg 

The  Rt.  Hon.— — — Vifcount  Falmouth 

The  Rt.  Hon. .Vifcount  Fielding 

The  Rt.  Hon.— —Charles  James  Fox 
The  Rt.  Hon.— M.  Fitzpatrick 

FIRST  (or  king's)  REGIMENT  OF  DRAGOON  GUARDS. 

General  Sir  George  Howard,  K.  B. 

Lieut.  Col.  Vyfe 

Capt.  Trotter 

Lieut.  Hawley 

— —  Syer 

— —  Beckford 

«— —  Serjeantfon 

—  Need 
Cornet  Hamilton 

FIRST   REGIMENT   OF   FOOT    GUARDS, 

Colonel  Bertie 
■    .■        Strickland 

-  Hon.  Francis  Needhant 
•    ■  Hon.  H.  F.  Stanhope 
— —  Sir  Charles  Afgill,  Bart. 

FIFTEENTH   REGIMENT   OF    F00T# 

Lieut,  Gen.  Sir.  Wm.  Fawcstt 
Lieut,  Col.  Myers 


SUBSCRIBERS. 

Capt.  MaJJen 

■  Ditmas 

— —  Paumier  ' 

.  Spencer 

Gordon 

.  Brown 

,— —  Cockburne 
Lieut.   Ball 

• 3  topford 

Enfign  Barnard 

• Mc  Donald 

Qr.  Mafter  Watkins 
$urgeon  Mr.  Anderfon 

jFORTY-SIXTH    REGIMENT    OF    FOOT, 

Lieut.  Col.  Hon.  Colin  Lindfay 
Major  Leighton 
Capt.  Bell 

, Wale 

J^ieut.  Lloyd 

^ James 

^  Dallas 

FORTY-SEVENTlil   REGIMENT   OF  FOOT» 

Lieut.  Col.  Irving 
Major  Coote 
»■ Alcock 

-  Aubrey 
Capt.  Sir  Henry  Marr 

-. Featherftone 

Lieut.  John(on 
Hill 

■  ■■  Baldwin 
— — — Mc  Lean 

FORTY-EIGHTH  RECIMJENT  OF  FOOT. 


Lieut.  Col.  Hedges 
Major  P'Arcy 


SUBSCRIBERS, 

Major  Campbell 
Capt.  Jones 
Lieut,  Jones 
•— —  Roberts 

Enfxgn  Beevor 
— — ' Power 

Colonel  Forbes, -Arlington-Street 

Lieut.  Col.  Forfter,  (66  Regt.  Foot) 

Thomas  Fonyth,  Eiq. -New  Bond-Street 

Cuthbert  Fiftier,  Efq. Tower 

J.  Flint,  Efq. Shrewfbury 

Mr.  Fletcher,- Liverpool  2  fets 

Mr.  Forreft, —St.  Martin's-Lane 

Rofe  Fuller,  Efq.^ Wigmore-Street 

Walter  Farquhar,  Efq Great  Marlborough- Street 

Mr.  Firmin, . — Strand 

1  homas  Fortune,  Efq. ^  London 

Mr.  Fenno's  Library, Colcheiler 


His  Grace -The  Duke  of  Grafton 

His  Grace- The  Duke  of  Gordon 

The  Rt.  Hon Earl  Grofvenor 

The  Rt.  Hon. Earl  of  Glafgow 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Gage 

(jener;-'.]  Crcjrdon 
Capt.  Gwynn 

Lieut.  Gordon, Parliament -Street 

(jrant,  Efq. 

RicharcfGray,  Efq. Pdl  Mall 

Mrs.  Gibfon, Hertford-Street 

Samuel  Greaves,  Efq. -Mancheftcr 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Gryll, Helftone 

Mr.  T.  Gryll,  ditto 

Thomas  Glynn,  Efq. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Gilbert, Helftone 

Mr.  Gardner, -London 


SUBSCRIBERS. 

H 

His  Grace The  Duke  of  Hamilton 

The  Rt.  Hon.  -The  Earl  of  Huntingdon 

The  Rt.  Hon. 'i'he  Earl  of  Harrington 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Harcourt 

The  Rt,  Hon. -The  Earl  of  Hertford 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Howard 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Hawlce 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Hawkefourjr 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Heathfteld 

I'he  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Hood 

The  Rt.  Hon. -Lord  Archibald   Hamilton 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Spencer  Hamilton 

Sir  Watts  Horton,  Bart. 

The  Hon.  Mrs.  Horton 

The  Hon.  liady  Horton 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Horton 

The  Hon.  Mr.  Heneage 

Mr.  Harman,  Princes- Street,  oppofite  the  Manfion-Houfe 

THE  ROYAL    REGIMENT    OF    HORSE    GUARDS. 

The  Rt  Hon. General  Conway 

Col.  Bakhwayt 
Capt.  Milnes 
— —  Chaplin 
«-•    -  JefFerfon 

Col.  Harnage, Parliament- Street 

Major  Hawker, ditto 

Capt.  Hanchett 
Capt.  Hardy 

Major  Haines, Hampfhire 

Mr.  Hall,  Surgeon,  (51    Regt.)  ^ 

l^he  Rev.  Mr.  Hornby 

Mrs.   Hindes, Hertford-Street 

John  Hawkins,  Efq. ►Helflone 

James  Watfon  Hull,  Efq.- -Belvedere,  Ireland 


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Trevor  Hull,  Efq. Greck-Srrcet 

Mr.  Hincke&j Great  Portland-Street 

Mr.  John  Harding, Strand 

Mr.  Hollyoake,  ~^^^ Red  Lion-Square 

Mr.  Harris, St.  Mary  Axe 

Anthony  Highmore,  Efq.  ditto 

Edward  Hcylin,  Efq. -Iflington 

Mr.  Hope, Upper  Seymour-Street,  Cavendifli-Square 

Eenj.  Henfliaw,  Eiq  — Hodfdon 

Thomas  Hodgfon,  Efq  Briftol 

McfT.   Haydon  and  Sons,- Plymouth 

The  Gentlemens  Book  Club at  Hclftone 

Col.  Hill,  (late  of  the  9th  Regt.) Helilone 

Capt.  Richard  Hill, Helflone 

William  Hofte,  Efq.  Barwick 

Mr.  George  Hall,- -Star-Office,  Exeter-Street 


The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Jerfey 

Lieut.  Col.  Jacques,  (51  Regt.  of  Foot) 

Sir  John  Johnfon,  Superintendant  to  the  Indians  in  Canada 

Col.  Jcflbp, Fludyer-Street 

Lieut  Jones, -Lower  Brook-Street 

Gen.  Johnfon 

Alex.  Irvine,  Efq. -Berner's-Street 

Mr.  Richard  Johns, Helftone 

Mr.  Johnfon, Piccadilly 

Mr.  Samuel  Johnfon, Briftol 

K 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Kenfington 

Lieut.  Col.  Kingfton,  (28  Regt.  ot  Foot) 

Capt.   Kempthorne, -Helftone 

Kellett,  Efq. RuiTel- Street,   Covent-Garden 

John  Keene,  Efq. Manfion  Houfe 

Mr.  James  Kerby, London 

Mr.  Charles  Knight, Windfor 

Mr,  Frederic  Kanmacher 


S  U  B  S  C  R  I  13  E  R  S. 


}Jis  Grace -The  Duke  of  Leeds 

The  Rt   Hon. The  Marquils  of  Lanfdown 

The  Rt.  Hon  The  Maiquifs  of  Lothain 

7'he  Rt    Hon. The  Earl  Ludlow 

The  Rt.  Hon.— Lord  Livaint: 

The  Hon. Robert  Lind'ay 

The  Hon. — — Capt.  John  Lindfay 

The  Hon Hugh  Lindfay 

Sir  Michael  Le  Fleming,  Bart. Hertford -Street 

General  Lambton, Harley-Street 

Paul  Le  Mefurier,  Efq.— Al.P.— Walbrook 

Charter  Layton,  Kfq. Drayton 

Mr.  Loxley, Poultry 

Mr.  Lofack, Wigmore-Street 

Mr.  John  Lee, Black-Friars 

Mr.  Leigh, -Thorndon 

Mr.  John  Lees, Brentford 


M 

His  Grace The  Duke  of  Marlborough 

His  Grace The  Duke  of  Montrofe 

The  Rt.  Hon. Vifcount  Mount  Fdgecumbe 

The  Rt.  Hon. Vifcount  Molefworth 

The  Rt.  Hon. V^ifcount  Melbourne 

The  Rt.  Hon. Vifcount  Mountiluart 

The  Rt.  Hon Lord  Milford 

Richard  Mafter,  Efq   M  P  —Charles-Street,  BerkleyqSq. 
J.  Madocks,  Efq.(Coldftream  Regt.  Gds.)  Kcdiord-^trect 

Major  Money, Norwich 

Capt.  A'lc.  Kinnon, (63  Regt.)  Ireland 

Capt.  Robert  Mc.  Crea, Guernll-y 

Cuthbert  Mafhiter,  Efq. Romford 

Edward  Mafon,  Efq. Spital-Ficlds 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Mingin, Golden- Square 

Mr.  Mackreth, ^Scotland  -Yard 

Mr.  Jofeph  Mitche!!, Uc]\\'>ac 

J.M.lbanhe,  E{q. 


SUBSCRIBERS. 

The  Rev.  Dr.  Morgan, St.  Jamcs's-Square 

James  Madden,  Efq St.  Albans-Street 

Thomas  Mauae,  tiq. Temple 

Mr.  Mc  Leifh's  Library,  Edinburgh 

N 

His  Grace The  Duke  of  Northumberland 

THE    NINTH  REGIMENT  OF  FOOT. 

Lieut,  CoL  Campbell 
Major  Ritchie 
Capt.  Baiilie 

Hocy 

— —  Buchannan 
Spencer 

-  -   Vincent 

Timms 

• Murray        -  ,       . 

■  Piercy 

Rofe 

Mc  Lean 

Lieut.   Reynolds 

Mirchell 

; —  Fatio 

Enfigns  James  Rofc 
.  DuiTe 

Dalziel 

BurbrlJgc 

-  '    ■■-   O'Connor 
Enfign  Kcightley 

Wolfe 

Chaplain — The  Rev.  Mr.  Clcwlow 


THE  ROYAL  NAVY. 


Admiral  Montague 
Cupt.  Dacrcs 


SUBSCRIBERS. 

— —  Hardy 

.  Schanks 

Lieut.  Wm.  Dalton 

■■■        Wm.  Bentick 

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O 

Sir  George  Ofborn,Bart.  Charles-Street,  Berkley- Square 
James  OrmfbyjEfq Dublin 


His  Grace The  Duke  of  Portland 

Her  Grace The  Dutchefs  of  Portland 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Plymouth 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Earl  of  Powis 

The  Rt.  Hon. Vifcount  Palmerftone 

n^he  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Pelham 

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Mr.  Phillips,  Somerfetfliire 

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Mr.  Parnell, Church- Street,  Spital-Fields 

Capt.  Walter  Proffer, — Ireland 

Palmer  and  Merrick's  Library, Oxford 

Mr.  Powell,' Newgate-Street 

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^rhomas  Boothby  Parkyns,  Efq. 
Thomas  Paulk,  Efq. 


-•  S  U  B  s  c  k  I  B  E  k  s. 

R 

The  Rt.  Hon.' --The  Earl  of  Radnor 

The  Rt.  Hon. -Lord  Rivers 

The  Rt.  Hon. -Lord  Rodney 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Ravvdon 

Sir  Matthew  White  Ridley,  Bart. — Portland-lMace 

Capt.  Reed, (103  Regt.; 

Mr.  Robfon,——— Princes -Strcc:,  Hanover-Square 

Mr.  Alexander  Roberts, Red  Lion-Square 

John  Roe,ers,  Efq. Hclftone 

E.Read,^Efq   Chcfter 

George  Rome,  Elq.  Mount-Street 

John  Le  Chevaher  Roome,  Efq. London-Road 

Mr.  Rufli,' Fountain  Street 

Alexander  Raby,  Efq. — Cobhanv  ' 

Mrs.  Raby 

Mr.  Robinfon, — Cornhill 


His  Grace -The  Duke  of  St.  Albans 

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The  Rt.  Hon.- The  Earl  of  Shaftelbury 

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The  Rt.  Hon.— — — ^^The  Earl  of  Scarborough 
The  Rt.  Hon.—- — -The  Earl  of  Stanhope 

The  Rt,  Hon.— Earl  Spencer 

The  Rt.  Hon.- Th.e  Earl  Stamford 

The  Rt.  Hon. Vifcount  Stormont 

The  Rt.  Hon. Lord  Say  and  Selc 

The  Rt.  Hon.- —Lord  Stourton 

The  Rt.  Hon. — Lord  St.  John 

The  Rt.  Hon.— -«~ Lord  Scarfdale 

1  he  Rt.  Hon Lord  Southampton 

The  Rt.  Hon. —Lord  Robert  Spencer 

llie  Rt.  Hon Lady  Ann  Simpfon 

The  Hon. Mr.  Sandilands 

Thomas  Stanley,  Efq.  M.  P. Pall  Mall 

R.  B.  SlK-ridan,  !::fq.  M.P. Braton  Street 


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SECOND  (or    royal  N.  BRITISH)  REGT.  OF  DRAGOONS, 

Major  Ramfay 
Capt.  Searord 

Smith 

Boardinan 

Lieut.  Fortefcue 
Cornet  "VVigley 

..  Bothwcll 

Leigh 


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Major  Gardner 

. Hon.  H.  Bennett 

Howell 

Capt.  Boyce 

Carmichacl 

Lieut.  Hawker 

Smallett 

Archer 

■  Munro 
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Lee 

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— —— Deering 

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Sotheron 

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Blackall 


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~ Batchelor 

Kerr 

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•: Garden 


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Mr.  Seddon,— 


-Chelfea 


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Stratlbrd-Place 

-Briftol 


John  Sawrey,  Efq.- 
Edw.  Spike,  Efq. 
Mrs.  Spike 
Mifs  Spike 
Mr.  John  Slade, — 
Daniel  Seton,  Efq.- 

Mr.  Shiercliffe, 

Mr.  Charles  Spitta, — -College-Hill 

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Simmons  and  Kirby,  Canterbury 

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Mr.  J,  F.  Souel, Guernfey 

John  Seeker,  Efq. —Windfor 

Stell's  Library, Haftings 


10  (ii. 

Am' 


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T 

The  Rt.  Hon. The  Marquifs  of  Titchfield 

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Sir  Charles  Thompfon,  Bart.  K.B.  Bond- Street 
Sir  John  Thorold,  Bart. Cavendiih-Square 

THE    THIRD    REGIMENT  OF  HORSE,  OR  CARBINEERS. 

Colonel  Longfield 
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= Willey 

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Tifdale 

Rofs 

Lieut.  Daniel 
———French 

-Templeton 


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—Sir  Thomas  Chapmart 


Cornet  Cramer 

' Gillefpie 

———Longfield 

Hon.  Geo.  Pomloy 

• Duncombe 

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THE  THIRD  (oR  PRINCE  OF  WALEs's)  REGT.  OF  DRAG. 
GUARDS. 

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Col.  Manfell 
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Charlton 

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TWENTIETH    REGIMENT  OF  FOOT. 

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Roilinfon 


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-, Norman 

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Brooke 
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YWENTY^FIRST  REGT.OF  FOOT  (OR  RNB)  FU2ILEERS. 

Colonel  Hamilton 
A  Taj  or  LoveU 
Capt.  Petrie 

Brodie 

Lieut.  Grant 

• Dalgleifli 

Congalton 

Qr.  M.  Geo.  Lauder 

TW?NTY-FOURTH    REGIIVIENT  OF   FOCTi 

Lieut.  Gen.  Wm.  Tayler 
Lieut.  Col.  England 
Major  Pilmer 
'  Campbell 

Capt.  Blake 
. SticI 

W.  Doyle 

Lieut,  Leyboarne 

^ Short 

HoUings 

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Mr.  John  Thomas 

Rev.  Mr. Hen.  Hawkins  Tremayne,A.M.Heligan,  Cornwall 

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'J'hpnmi  Fcitune,  f  fq. — ^-^  London 


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u 

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Woodmafon  and  Page, Leadenhall- Street 

James  Woodmiifoi],  Efq. Bond-Strqet 


^lajor  William  Young 


ERR  At  A, 


VOL.  I. 

Page  Line 
15     12  after  the  word  to  add  them 
21     2  J  after  frigate  add  au/jo 
56  7&8  for  9^2  d'arri'ver  read 

qtcal^riHjer 
60     —  Latin  quotation  mifplaced, 

/'fg^/«  ■Ti)//^  /,6f  lovjer  lt7:e 
75       7  /^t;/«j-  ^0  be  ioifeem  to  be 
90       ^  Dura  iov  dttrce 
109  I  Si  2  for  Enfant  xt3.A  Enfans 
324.     19  for  and  lave  lejid  and  they 

haiJe 
341      I  o  for  /ȣ'/zVf  read  pedit 
349     14  for  /««/  rt^\fent 
156       9  for  ociAtis  read  occultls 
395     10  iotfiand  as  \z-&AJlands  a 
195  laii  line,  after  celui  add  qui 
449       a  for  .«//(/  read  jhould 


VOL.  II. 
Page  Line 

52     1 1  (or  F^frcis  re:id  Francis     • 
190     14  for  1788  read  177S 
197     17  for    £;2iertain    read    £'«/f/'- 

tairted 
22  1  laft  line  rjleeming  for  efieemed 
225     II  aw/T  z^wrt't'r  for  /Zny  iv-^rrf 

2S3  16  for  jjiahing  of  Cyder  read 

■ir.ah'ing  Cyder 

2??  15  omit  the  word  Old 

361  16  inltead  oi/&r  read  or 
376       2  omit  the  after  T^^r 
3p5       7  after  P;/r/f^  add  -if/jitZi 

425  iS  bearing  for  leaving 
480       6  after  /-i^add/W 

505  22  fov  pet  its  red.d  petit  es 

506  1  for  //v/^  read  /rw^ir 


TRAVELS 


THROUGH     THE 


INTERIOR   PARI'S 


OF 


AMERICA. 


LETTER        I. 

Corky  Auguji  %th,  iJ-jO* 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

T  RECEIVED  your  letter,  dated  the  2d 
-■-  inftant,  and  lurely  nothing  can  be 
more  flattering  than  the  warm  teflimony 
bf  regard  and  friendfhip  every  line  of  it 
fpeaks. — It  was  with  great  relu6lance  you 
confented  to  m^y  going  into  the  army,  but 
a  dull  inactive  life  neither  fuited  my  cir- 
cumftances  nor  my  inclination,  and  an  early 
Vol.  I.  B  love 


2  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

love  of  a  military  one,  foon  determined 
my  choice.  My  time  and  poor  abilities 
cannot  be  fo  well  employed,  as  in  the  fer- 
Vice  of  my  King  and  country. 

I  have  no  regrets  at  quitting  England, 
but  the  lofs  I  muft  fuftain  in  your  pleafant 
and  improving  converfation  j  and  am  per- 
fuaded  you  will  alleviate  as  many  of  thofe 
painful  refle6lions  as  pofiible,  by  taking 
every  opportunity  of  writing  to  me. — 
None  fliall  be  omitted,  on  my  part,  of 
affuring  you  hov/  often  I  think  of  you, 
and  the  implicit  attention  I  fliall  ever  pay 
to  your  comm.ands,  in  giving  you  a  de- 
fcription  of  perfons,  places,  and  various 
occurrences — and  fhould  I  fometimes  be 
too  particular  on  trivial  fubje^ts,  you  muil 
excufe  it,  and  remember  the  two  prevailing 
motives  you  affigned  for  this  kind  of  cor- 
refpondence — the  pleafure  you  was  fo  ob- 
liging to  fay  it  would  afford  you,  and  the 
utility  you  thought  it  would  be  of  to  me, 

by 


THROUGH     AMERICA. 


3 


by  calling  my  attention  to  whatever  be- 
came in  tlie  Icaft  worthy  of  obfcrvation. 

This  is  the  laft  you  muft  expe6l  from 
me  on  this  fide  the  Atlantic,  as  in  a  few 
days  we  fail,  with  the  care  of  fome  recruits 
for  the  47th  regiment. 

I  once  more  entreat  you,  my  dear  friend, 
to  take  eveiy  opportunity  of  writing  to 
me,  and  believe  that  time  and  diflance  can 
never  abate  the  refpe6l  and  friendfhip  with 
which  I  am, 

Yours  J  &c. 


E2  LET- 


I  N  T  E  R  I  O  I^  -  T  R  A  V  E  L  & 


LETTER        IL 


On  hoard  the  Hoive,  on  the  ^  ~    .         t 
I  Sept.  I  ilh. 

Banks  of  Ne'tvfoundland.  J       1776. 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

It  T  would  be  very  ungrateful  indeed  not 
'*'  to  embrace  the  opportunity,  by  a  fhip 
that  is  bound  for  England,  now  lying  too 
for  letters,  to  fend  you  a  hafty  account  of 
the  events  that  have  happened  fmce  my 
departure  from  Ireland. 

You  know  I  had  the  care  of  fome  re- 
cruits for  the  47th  regiment ;  and  as  they 
were  compofed  of  that  nation,  no  lefs 
famous  for  their  chara6leriftic  errors,  than 
their  fpirit  and  unbounded  hofpitality,  let 
me  relate  a  cafual  occurrence  or  ,two,  in 
place  of  novelty,  which  cannot  be  ex- 
pelled, 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  § 

cd,    fituated  as   I  am,  between   Iky  and 
water. 

There  were  continually  fome  little  dif- 
putes  among  thefe  Hibernians.  One  day, 
on  hearing  a  more  than  ufual  noife  upon 
deck,  I  went  up  to  enquire  the  occafion  of 
it,  and  learnt  it  was  a  quarrel  between 
two  of  them.  Upon  afls.ing  the  caufe  of 
him  who  appeared  the  tranfgrefTor,  he  ex- 
claimed, "  Oh  !  and  plaife  your  Honor,  I 
*'  did  nothing  to  him  at  all,  at  all" — when 
the  other  haftily  replied,  "  Oh  yes,  and 
"  plaife  your  Honor,  he  faid  as  how  he 
"  would  take  up  a  flick  and  blow  my 
"  brains  out."  The  peculiar  manner  in 
which  it  was  vociferated,  was  fo  truly 
comic,  that  I  could  not  refrain  from 
laughter,  and  merely  reprimanding  them, 
overlooked  the  offence.  > 

The  weather  has  been  very  pleafant,  'till 

a  few  days  previous  to  our  coming  on 

B  3  thefe 


6  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

thefe  Banks  J  when  there  enfued  a  moft 
dreadful  iiiorm.  The  fhip  was  unable  to 
carry  the  leafl:  fail,  being  left  to  the  fury 
of  the  driving  tempeft,  it  wac  impoffible 
for  any  one  to  keep  the  deck,  and  the  helm 
was  lallied  hard  of  weather, 

About  the  third  day  the  fcorm  began  to 
abate,  and  the  evening  became  almoil 
calm.  But  there  was  fuch  a  prodigious 
fwell  of  the  fea,  that  the  fnip  was  expe6l- 
ed  every  moment  to  roll  her  mails  over- 
board :  (lie  had  driven  fo  much  to  the  lee- 
ward, that  although  we  could  not  difcern 
land,  the  yards  and  rigging  were  covered 
with  birds,  that  were  blown  from  it  by  the 
ftorm. 

At  this  time,  one  of  my  recruits  com- 
ing upon  deck,  not  obferving  any  one 
there,  and  the  fea  fo  tremendous,  imme- 
diately went  below,  and  cried  out  to  his 
companions,  "  Oh  !  by  my  foul,  honeys,  the 

"  fea 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  J 

"  fea  is  very  di'eadful,  and  we  are  all  fure 
"  to  Be  drovN'ned,  for  the  fliip's  a  finking. 
*'  However,  I  have  this  confolation,  that 
^'  if  fhe  goes  to  the  bottom,  the  Captain 
"  muft  be  accountable  for  us  when  we  get 
"  to  Quebec."  And  his  fears  operated  io 
powerfully,  that  he  gave  a  groan,  and 
fainted  away. 

A  few  days  after  this  the  fea,  whicli 
before  had  been  fo  tremendous,  and  to  ufe 
the  technical  phrafe,  run  mountains  high, 
was  now  become  as  calm  as  a  mill-pond. 
It  is  cuilomary,  on  fuch  weather,  in  a 
fleet,  for  one  fhip  to  invite  the  Captains 
and  pafTengers  of  others  to  dinner.  The 
mode  of  invitation  on  thefe  occaiions,  is 
by  hoifling  a  table-cloth  to  the  enfign- 
ftafF. 

We  hung  out  this  fignal,  and  the  Cap- 
tain of  the  neareft  fliip,  with  an  officer, 
came  on  board,     After  dinner,  fo  fudden 
B  4  and 


S  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

and  ilrong  a  breeze  fprung  up,  as  to  ren- 
der their  return  very  unfafe,  and  it  was 
two  days  before  they  could  venture,  when 
even  then  they  accomplilned  it  with  im- 
minent danger. 

This  is  a  little  anecdote  I  cannot  help 
v/ifliing  to  be  much  noticed,  as  it  might  be 
a  caution  to  young  officers  and  captains  of 
fhips,  how  they  m.ake  nautical  vifits,  or 
upon  any  occafion  quit  their  veilels. 

Thefe  Banks  may  be  ranked  amongfl  the 
many  furprifnig  and  wonderful  works  of 
nature,  being  a  mountain  formed  under 
water,  by  the  Dime  that  is  continually 
wailiing  away  from  the  Continent.  Its 
extent  has  never  yet  been  afcertained,  but 
is  generally  reckoned  to  be  about  i6o 
leagues  long,  and  90  broad.  About  the . 
middle  of  it  is  a  kind  of  bay,  called  the 
Ditch.     The  depth  of  water  varies  confi- 

derably, 


THROUGH     AxM  ERICA.  9 

derably,  being  in  fome  places  only  five, 
and  in  others  fixty  fathom.  The  fun  is 
fcaixely  ever  to  be  difcerned,  a  cold  thick 
fog  generally  covering  the  v^^hole  atmof- 
phere,  which  renders  it  extremely  dan- 
gerous to  a  fleet ;  for  it  is  at  times  a  ftate 
of  total  darknefs,  v^here  a  continual  firing 
of  guns,  or  incelTant  noife  of  the  di'um, 
can  alone  prevent  the  ihips  running  foul 
of  each  other. 

The  winds  around  thefe  Banks  are  ge- 
nerally very  impetuous ;  the  conftant  agi- 
tation of  the  waves,  I  am  informed,  is  occa- 
fioned  from  the  fea  being  di'iven  by  irre- 
gular currents,  that  beat  fometimes  on 
one  fide  and  fometimes  on  the  other,  ftrik- 
ing  v/ith  great  force  againil  the  borders  of 
thefe  Banks,  which  are  every  where  almoU 
perpendicular,  and  repel  them  with  equal 
violence :  and  yet,  on  the  Banks  themfelves, 
a  little  from  the  coafl,  it  is  as  quiet  as  in  a 

bay, 


20  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

bay,  except  there  happens  to  bea  ftrong  and 
forced  wind  coming  from  a  great  dillance. 

When  we  found  we  were  upon  thefe 
Banks,  which  is  perceptible  without  found- 
ing, as  the  water  changes  from  an  azure 
bhie  to  a  white  fandy  color,  we  laid  too 
in  order  to  fiili  for  cod,  the  procefs  of 
which  is  no  lefs  entertaining  than  furpriz- 
ing  to  Europeans. 

After  baiting  the  hooks  with  the  en- 
trails of  a  fowl,  in  a  few  minutes  we 
caught  a  fiih,  when  the  failors  made  ufe 
of  fome  part  of  the  entrails,  as  being  a 
better  bait,  and  then  drew  up  the  cod  as 
faft  as  you  can  poffibly  imagine ;  for 
though  we  remained  there  only  half  an 
hour,  we  caught  as  many  as  v/ould  fei*ve 
the  fliip's  crew  the  refl:  of  the  voyage. 

You  may  wonder  by  v/hat  means  they 
are  certain  of  having  caught  a  iifn,  with 

fo 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  II 

fo  many  fathom  of  line  out.  When  it  has 
been  a  Httle  while  in  the  water,  they 
gently  pull  it  with  the  finger  and  thumb, 
and  if  there  is  a  fiih,  the  ftruggling  of  it 
occafions  a  vibration  of  tlie  line,  which  is 
very  perceptible,  though  fo  many  fathoms 
deep.  They  then  haul  it  in,  and  as  foon 
as  the  fiili  comes  in  view,  the  water  mag- 
nifies it  to  fuch  a  ilze,  that  it  appears 
almofl  impofTible  to  get  it  on  board  3  and 
indeed  it  requires  fome  dexterity,  for  on 
Jiauling  them  out  of  the  v/ater  they  flruggle 
with  fuch  violence,  as  frequently  to  work 
themfelves  off  the  hooks,  by  entangling 
the  line  in  the  rigging,  before  they  can  be 
got  up  the  fhip's  fide. 

But  thofe  vefTels  which  particularly  follow 
this  bufniefs,  avoid  the  inconvenience  by 
erefting  galleries  on  the  outfide,  from  the 
main-mad  to  the  ftern,  and  fometimes  the 
whole  length  of  the  fliip,  in  which  are 
placed  barrels  with  the  tops  fcruck  out, 

and 


12  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

and  the  fifliermen  get  into  thefe  to  fhelter 
themfelves  from  the  weather.  Their  Hay, 
I  imagine,  cannot  be  long,  as  the  method 
of  curing  is  equally  as  expeditious  as  the 
catching  themj  for  as  foon  as  the  cod  is 
caught,  they  cut  out  its  tongue,  and  give 
it  to  one  who  immediately  ftrikes  oif  its 
head,  plucks  out  its  liver  and  entrails,  and 
giving  it  to  another,  the  bone  is  drawn  out 
as  far  as  the  navel  s  it  is  then  thrown  into 
the  hold  of  the  iliip,  where  it  is  falted  and 
ranged  in  piles.  The  perfon  v/ho  falts  it 
is  careful  to  leave  fuflicient  fait  between 
the  rows  of  fifh,  to  prevent  them  touching 
each  other,  and  yet  not  too  mi^ch,  as  either 
excefs  would  fpoil  the  cod. 

The  right  of  fifliing  upon  the  Great 
Bank,  by  the  law  of  nature,  ought  to  have 
been  common  to  all  mankind  5  but  England 
and  France,  being  the  only  tv/o  powers 
that  had  colonies  in  North  America,  made 
no  fcruple  to  appropriate  to  themfelves, 

what 


-^THROUGH    AMERICA.  I3 

what  Spain  certainly  had  the  greatelt  claim 
to,  as  the  original  difcoverers  of  itj  and. 
■who,  from  the  number  of  her  monks  and 
prieils,  as  well  as  her  religion,  might  have 
pleaded  the  necellity  of  keeping.  Yet  at 
the  conclufion  of  the  laft  peace,  they 
entirely  gave  up  all  pretenfions  to  it :  iince 
which  time  England  and  France  are  the 
only  nations  that  frequent  thofe  latitudes, 
and  both  have  frigates  continually  cruiz- 
ing, to  prevent  the  encroachments  of  other 
nations. 

The  produce  of  this  fifheiy  is  certainly 
a  moft  inexhauilible  V\^ealth  to  both  coun- 
tries, and  it  is  no  wonder  they  are  fo  very 
tenacious  of  it:  yet  it  is  furprizing  what  a 
large  circuit  the  fhips  are  obliged  to  take 
before  their  voyage  is  compleated,  and 
the  profits  refulting  from  this  fifhery 
returns  to  either,  nearly  traverfmg  by 
w  ater  half  the  globe :  for,  in  the  firft  in- 
flance,  they  fail  from  their  refpe6Live  ports 

in 


14  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

in  Europe  to  thefe  Banks,  from  whence 
they  proceed  with  their  cargoes  to  the 
Mediterranean  and  African  iflands,  where 
they  difpofe  of  their  fiih  for  the  produce  of 
thofe  illands,  then  go  to  the  Weft  Indies, 
to  exchange  that  cargo,  and  return  horae 
laden  with  fugars  and  rum. 

It  appears  a  very  finguiar  circumftance, 
that  thefe  Banks  fhould  abound  with  cod 
and  no  other  fifh ;  and  that  the  greateft 
philofophers  have  never  been  able  to  ac- 
count for  it. 

The  Captain  of  the  fhip  that  is  waiting 
for  our  letters  growing  impatient,  obliges 
me  to  make  a  hafty  conclufion,  with  wiili- 
ing  you  health  and  happinefs,  and  affur- 
ing  you  that  you  Ihall  hear  from  me  as 
foon  as  I  arrive  at  Quebec. 

I  am, 

Yours,  &c, 

LET- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  J^ 


LETTER        III. 

i^tl>ec,  Oif.  Sth,  1776. 
DEAR  SIR, 

A  F  T  E  R  a  fatiguing  pafTage  of  eleven 
•^  ^  weeks,  attended  witli  no  little  dan- 
ger, vve  are  fafe  arrived  at  Quebec,  which 
before  I  proceed  to  give  you  any  defcrip- 
tion  of,  it  vvall  be  more  methodical  to  re- 
late the  occurrences  that  befel  us  the  re- 
mamder  of  our  voyage. 

I  toid  you  in  my  lafl,  that  we  had  fri- 
gates cruizing  on  the  Banks,  one  of  v/hich 
informed  us,  that  there  v/ere  feveral  priva- 
teers in  the  river  Saint  Laurence.  Had  we 
been  lefs  attentive  to,  and  more  apprehen- 
five  of  the  flioals  and  fands  that  river 
abounds  with,  rendering  its  navigation  dif- 
ficult 


l6  INTERIOR     TRAVELS' 

ficult  and  dangerous,  it  would  have  been 
better  for  us ;  for  a  few  days  after  we  had 
pafTed  CapeRofier,  a  favorable  wind  fpring- 
ing  up,  the  Captain  crouded  all  the  fail 
he  polTibly  could,  in  order  to  get  the  next 
morning  to  the  iile  of  Bee,  where  he  might 
find  a  pilot,  being  very  uneafy,  as  he  had 
never  been  up  that  river  before. 

But  to  our  great  furprize  and  aftonifh- 
ment,  about  one  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
we  run  right  upon  a  fhoal  (which  is  called 
Mille  Vache)  with  amazing  violence. 

A  fhip  belonging  to  the  fleet  that  had 
gone  a  head  in  the  day  time,  and  perceived 
the  flioal,  (being  low  water)  had  immedi- 
ately brought  too,  to  warn  us  of  our  dan- 
ger, y/hich  they  did,  by  firing  fignai  guns. 
But  the  Captain  miftaking  them  for  thofe 
of  a  privateer,  returned  the  fhot. 

The 


Ti:  ■ROUGH     AMET.  ICA.  \J 

The  fnip  beat  with  great  violence,  and 
was  every  moment  expefted  to  go  to  pieces"; 
but  the  tide  Toon  turning,  flie  retled  upon 
the  ground,  and  to  our  great  ailonifliment, 
at  the  break  of  day,  we  found  ourfelves  io 
near  the  fliore,  that,  to  ufe  a  fea  phrafe, 
we  could  almoft  chuck  a  bifcuit  on  it. 

Upon  the  clearing  Up  of  a  fog^  a  fhip 
was  difcerned,  Vvhich  proved  to  be  the 
fame  that  had  fired  guns  in  the  ni^ht  time : 
fhe  v/as  then  about  three  leagues  difcant. 
We  immediately  fxred  guns  of  diflrefs,  of 
which  ilie  took  no  notice,  and  imagined 
file  had,  as  too  frequently  is  the  cafe, 
deferted  us,  becaufe  we  were  in  diilrefs  and 
flood  in  need  of  her  alnitance. 

However,  we  found  friends  in  a  quarter 
we  little  expelled,  for  a  canoe  with  three 
men  paddled  from  the  fliore,  one  of  whom 
came  on  board  and  told  us,  Vv-e  v>'ere  very 
fortunate  to  have  ftruck  at  the  time  of 
Vol.  I.  C  fpring- 


l8  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

ipring-tides,  or  there  would  be  no  proba- 
bility of  the  fhip's  being  got  off.  He 
dire£led  us,  when  the  tide  was'  coming  in, 
to  carry  out  the  bow  anchor  the  length  of 
the  cable,  and  then  made  no  doubt,  but  at 
the  full,  the  fhip  would  float  again,  and  we 
might  warp  off. 

After  having  given  every  proper  in- 
ftru6lion,  he  took  his  leave,  requelling,. 
at  the  fame  time,  that  in  cafe  Vv^e  were  fo- 
unfortunate  as  not  to  effeft  it,  we  would 
come  afhore  to  his  houfe,  offering  every 
afhilance  to  fave  the  cargo,  and  with  a  iloop 
of  his  to  talve  us  up  the  river^ 

At  the  return  of  the  tide  fome  men  were 
fent  out  with  the  anchor,  according  to  the 
direftions  given;  at  the  heigh th  of  it  we 
floated,  and  to  the  joyful  fatisfa6lion  of 
every  one,  got  clear  off,  fuffaining  no  other 
damage  than  the  lofs  of  t\^^o  anchors :  yet 
fuch  was  the  Captain's  care  and  anxiety  for 

his 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  1 9 

ills  owners,  that,  I  am  peiTuaded,  he 
vvoiild  not  have  exprelTed  half  the  concern 
for  the  lofs  of  the  v/hole  fnip's  burthen  and 
Company,  that  he  did  for  his  anchors :  as 
with  Captains  of  hired  tranfports,  the  crew 
and  the  cargo  are  but  fecondary  objecls. 

This  is  one  inftance  of  the  numberlefs 
accidents  that  await  tranfports,  by  which, 
I  am  convinced,  the  fervice  is  retarded, 
and  many  operations,  however  critical, 
Vv^hich  depend,  on  troops  and  provifion,  are 
often  fruftrated,  either  by  defign  or  negli- 
gence. For  only  figure  to  yourfelf  what 
a  fituation  an  army  of  fo  many  thoiifands 
as  that  we  have  upon  the  Continent,  and 
thofe  chiefly  fed  with  provifions  from  the 
Motlier  Country,  mufl  be  in,  upon  the 
flighted  delay. 

It  is  much   to  be  lamented,    therefore, 

that  all  tranfports  are  not  com.manded  by 

King's  officers,  or  at  leaft  the  mafccr  made 

C  2  more 


20  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

more  fubjecl  to  controul,  when  under 
convoy,  or  naval  orders ;  as  it  v^ould 
prevent  the  inconvenience  and  hazard  that 
is  continually  happening  to  the  King's 
fervice. 

You  will  fuppofe  it  furprizing  that  this 
has  never  been  noticed  and  remedied  by 
thofe  in  power.  I  fliould  have  thought 
the  affair  of  the  powder-fliip  that  went 
into  Bofton,  would  have  occaiioned  a 
thorough  inveftigation  of  this  iniquitous 
bufmefs. 

The  Captains  of  tranfparts  in  general, 
are  a  fet  of  people  w^io  have  their  own  in- 
tereft  much  more  at  heart  than  the  welfare 
of  their  country;  and  it  is  well  known 
that  many  of  them  are  difaffecled  to  Go- 
vernment, which  was  the  cafe  of  the  Cap- 
tain of  the  fliip  jufl  alluded  to,  but  where 
the  blame  is  to  be  imputed,  is  not  for  me 
to  fay.     As  in  all  probability   you  may 

not 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  21 

not  have  heard  of  this  affair,  or  the  real 
truth  of  it  may  not  have  reached  you,  I 
fliall  relate  the  matter,  as  I  had  it  from  a 
Captain  of  a  fhip  who  failed  in  the  fame 
fleet,  v/ hofe  veracity  can  be  relied  on,  and 
from  the  amazing  ftrange  circumftances 
which  attended  the  lofs  of  that  fliip,  you 
may  form  your  own  opinions. 

It  feems  this  vefTel  was  an  immenfe 
charge,  containing' 1500  barrels  of  gun- 
powder, befides  a  great  c[uantity  of  other 
warlike  ftores.  Several  perfons  well  dif- 
pofed  to  Government,  and  who  were  per- 
feftiy  aquainted  with  the  Captain's"  prin- 
ciples, informed  thofe  who  had  the  direc- 
tion of  tranfports  at  Cork,  that  this  man 
would,  the  very  firil  opportunity,  leave 
the  convoy  and  join  the  Americans,  but 
no  attention  was  paid  to  the  information ; 
upon  w^hich  they  exprelled  their  apprehen- 
fions  to  the  Captain  of  the  frigate  was 
to  convoy  them  out,  who  promifed  to 
C  3  take 


22  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

take  all  polTible  care  of  that  fhip  during 
the  voyage :  and  every  one  in  the  fleet 
thought  he  was  not  the  man  reprefented, 
as  he  kept  clofe  under  the  flern  of  the 
frigate. 

When  the  fleet  came  off  Boflon  harbour, 
a  frigate  that  was  cruizing  for  the  purpofe, 
informed  them,  that  the  King's  troops  had 
evacuated  Bofton,  and  gone  to  Halifax ; 
and  in  the  fleet's  failing  to  that  place,  in 
one  of  thofe  fogs  that  I  have  already  de- 
fcribed  to  you,  the  Captain  of  the  pov/der- 
Ihip  feized  the  opportunity,  left  the  fleet, 
and  failed  back  for  Bollon,  at  the  mouth 
of  which  harbour  was  ftationed  a  fifty-gun 
Ihip,  to  prevent  any  velFel  from  going  in, 
that  might  have  efcaped  any  of  the  fri-. 
gates  that  v/ere   cruizing. 

Upon  the  Captain  of  the  tranfport's 
being  interrogated  by  the  man  of  war, 
he  acknowledged  himfelf  bound  for  Bof- 

ton. 


THROUGH    AMERICA,  23 

ton,  that  he  had  not  heard  of  the 
troops  evacuating  it,  and  feveral  more 
excufes ;  but  fome  doubts  and  fufpicions 
arifmg  from  the  man's  converfation,  and 
file  being  found  a  ihip  of  fuch  an  im-^ 
menfe  treafure,  an  officer  was  fent  on 
board  her,  and  as  the  evening  was  coming 
on,  lafhed  her  to  his  main-mafl,  intending 
to  fail  her  the  next  morning  for  Ha- 
lifax, under  the  befl  convoy  he  could 
^ftord. 

But  to  fliew  you  what  a  determined 
villain  the  Captain  of  the  tranfport  was,  in 
the  night  time,  he  confined  the  Lieute- 
nant, who  was  fent  on  board,  cut  away 
from  the  man  of  war,  and  under  cover  of 
the  night,  made  all  poffible  expedition  to 
get  into  BoHon, 

The  tide  v/ould  not  anfwer  his  purpofe 

that  time,  and  the  man  of  war  could  not 

come  up  to  her,   for  want  of  a  fufncient 

C  4  depth 


24  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

depth  of  water.  The  Captain  manned  his 
pinnace,  and  fent  another  Lieutenant  on 
board  her.  Upon  the  onicer's  attempting 
it,  the  Captain  ftinick  a  harpoon  into  his 
Ikull^  he  fell  into  the  boat,  and  the  reil 
finding  a  great  refiltance,  and  that  they 
were  likely  to  be  overpowered,  rowed  back 
again. 

The  tide  now  turned,  and  he  got  the 
fliip  fafe  under  the  cannon  of  the  Ameri- 
cans, before  a  greater  force  could  be  dif- 
patched  to  retake  polTeirion  of  her. 

The  lofs  on  our  fide  was  great  indeed, 
but  the  advantage  to  the  Americans  was 
tenfold,  as  they  were  in  the  utmoft  diilrefs 
for  thofe  materials,  and  which  event  may 
in  fome  m^eafure  procraftinate  this  unfor- 
tunate war. 

Two  days  after  our  late  accident,  we 
arrived  off  the  ille  of  Condre,  where  we  got 

a  pilotj 


TIJKOUGII    AMERICA.  2^ 

a  pilot,  and  three  days  after  anchored  fafe 
in  the  bafon  of  this  city. 

Fearful  of  being  too  late-to  fend  this  by 
a  fiiip  tliat  is  j nil  failing  for  England,  there 
is  only  time  to  afTure  you,  that  I  fliall 
embrace  every  opportunity  of  convincing 
you,  with  how  much  fincerity  and  friend- 
fliip    I  am, 

Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


26  INTERIOR     TRAVEL^ 


LETTER        IV. 


MY  DEAR  FRIENDj 

T^EFORE  you  have  any  account  of 
"^  this  city  and  its  environs,  I  fliall  de- 
fcribe  to  you  the  river  Saint  Laurence, 
which,  upon  their  firfl  faihng  up  it,  is  the 
aftonifliment  and  admiration  of  every  Eu- 
ropean. In  forming  an  idea  of  a  river, 
people  in  general  are  apt  to  judge  by  com- 
parifon  :  thofe  v^ho  have  made  the  tour  of 
Europe,  inftantly  call  to  rnind  the  Rhine 
and  the  Danube  ^  thofe  who  have  not,  the 
Thames.  What  will  you  fay,  when  you 
are  informed  that  thefe,  though  very  noble 
and  beautiful,  are  but  mere  rivulets,  when 

put 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  27 

put  in  competition  with  that   of  Saint 
Laurence. 

This  liver  iffues  from  lake  Ontario, 
taking  its  courfe  north-eafl,  wafhing  Mon- 
treal, where  it  receives  the  Outtuais,  form- 
ing many  fertile  illands,  and  a  lake  which 
is  called  St.  Pierre,  it  continues  the  fame 
courfe,  and  meets  the  tide  400  miles  from 
the  fea,  where  it  is  navigable  -for  large 
velTels.  After  receiving  in  its  progrefs  in- 
numerable fbreams,  this  great  river  falls 
into  the  ocean  at  Cape  Rofier ;  it  is  there 
90  miles  broad,  v/here  the  cold  in  ge- 
neral is  fevere,  and  the  fea  rather  boif- 
terous.  In  its  progrefs  it  forms  variety  of 
bays,  harbours  and  ifiands,  many  of  the 
latter  being  extremely  fruitful  and  plea- 
fant. 

The  river  Saint  Laurence  has  ever  been 
looked  upon  as  a  good  defence  to  this  pro- 
vince, for  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Quebec, 

it 


28  INTERIOR     TRx-WELS 

it  abounds  witli  hidden  rocks,  with  ftrong 
currents  in  many  places,  which  force  the 
,  fliips  to  make  various  windings.  From 
tJie  time  that  Quebec  was  befieged  by  Sir 
William  Phipps,  in  the  year  1690,  who 
was  obliged  to  retire  with  a  great  lofs  df 
fnipping,  this  river  was  veiy  little  known 
to  the  Englifh  till  the  year  1759,  when 
Sir  Charles  Saunders,  with  a  fleet  of  50 
Englifh  men  of  war,  and  near  300.  fail  of 
tranfports,  arrived  off  Quebec,  without 
the  lofs  of  a  fmgle  fliip,  which  clearly 
proves  thofe  dangers  were  not  fo  great  as 
had  been  reprefented.  Since  that  time  it 
has  been  better  kncvvqi ;  and  though  wq 
have  not  at  prefent  at  this  place  fo  many 
men  of  war,  yet  there  ai*e  near  as  many 
tranfports,  notwith (landing  the  navigation 
lip  this  river  from  the  fea  is  rendered  very 
dangerous,  by  the  ftrength  of  the  current 
and  the  number  of  fand-banks,  which  fre- 
<[uently  arifc  in  places  where  they  never- 
appeared  before)  the  fatal  confequences  of 

which 


■THROUGH     AMERICA.  29 

which  feveral  vefiels  have  experienced  this 
war. 

There  are  abundance  of  porpoifes  in  the 
river  St.  Laurence,  which  are  moftly  white, 
and  when  they  rife  to  the  furface  of  the 
water,  have  the  appearance  of  an  hog 
fwimming.  At  night,  if  I  may  be  allowed 
tlie'  expreflion,  without  being  accufed  of 
an  Iricifm,  they  caufe  moft  beautiful  fire 
works  in  the  water :  for  being  in  fuch  abun- 
dance, and  darting  with  amazing  velocity, 
a  continued  flream  of  light  glides  through 
the  water,  and  as  fhoals  of  them  frequently 
crofs  each  other,  the  luminous  appearance 
is  fo  piclurefque,  that  no  defcription  can 
reach  it. 

On  our  entering  the  river  St.  Laurence, 
we  faw,  off  the  iiland  of  Anticofli,  a  great 
number  of  feals,  one  of  which  we  caus;ht. 
This  animal  is  generally  ranked  amongft 
the  clafs  of  fifli,    although  produced  on 

land. 


^O  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

land,  and  living  more  tliere  than  in  water. 
Its  head  refembles  that  of  a  maftifF,  it  has 
four  paws  which  are  very  fliort,  efpecially 
the  hinder  ones,  ferving  rather  to  crawl, 
than  to  walk  upon,  and  refembling  fins  • 
but  the  fore  feet  have  claws ;  the  (km  is 
exceeding  hard  and  covered  with  fhort 
hair  J  they  are  firfl:  white,  but  as  they 
grow  up  turn  to  fandy  or  black,  and  fome 
of  them  are  of  three  different  colours. 

There  are  tw^o  forts,  the  larger  weighing 
near  two  thoufand  pounds,  and  have  a 
fliarper  fnout  than  the  others.  I  have 
been  told  that  the  Indians  have  the  art  of 
taming  thefe  creatures,  fo  as  to  make  them 
follow  like  a  dog. 

I  am  led  to  imagine  they  couple  and 
bring  forth  their  young  on  the  rocks,  from 
this  reafon,  wherein  the  powerful  inftinft 
of  nature  fhewed  itfelf  very  predominant- 
ly :  one  day,  feveral  large  ones  that  had  got 

their 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  3I 

their  young  on  their  backs,  dropt  them 
now  and  then  into  the  water  and  took 
them  up  again,  which  no  doubt,  as  being 
brought  forth  upon  land,  was  to  teach 
them  to  fwim ;  it  is  not  very  furprizing, 
when  it  is  coniidered  this  animal  is  amphi- 
bious :  but  the  mode  is  exa6lly  the  fame, 
only  changing  the  element,  with  that  of 
the  feathered  creation,  whofe  little  ones 
flutter  from  fpray  to  fpray,  before  they 
venture  to  fly  abroad.  The  eagle  carries 
her  young,  to  train  them  up  to  encounter 
boifterous  winds. 

Thefe  animals  are  caught  on  the  coaft  of 
Labrador.  The  Canadians  go  to  this  frozen 
and  almofl  uninhabitable  coail,  in  the 
middle  of  Oftober,  and  remain  there  till 
June  J  their  mode  of  catching  them  is  by 
placing  nets  between  the  continent  and  a 
few  fmall  ifiands,  where  coming  in  fhoals 
from  the  eaft,  in  attempting  to  pafs  thefe 
fbraights,  they  are  caught  -,  they  then  con- 
vey 


32  INTERIon     TRAVELS 

vey  them  to  land,  where  they  remain 
frozen  till  the  month  of  May  j  the  oil  is 
then  extra6led  from  them,  and  it  is  faid 
that  feven  or  eight  of  thefe  animals  will 
yield  a  hogfnead.  The  ufe  of  its  fiiin 
is  fo  generally  known,  it  needs  no  de- 
fcription  j  its  fleih  is  allowed  to  be  very 
good,  but  if  you  had  partaken  of  it,  as  I 
have  done,  you  would  coincide  with  me  in 
opinion,  that  it  turns  to  better  account 
Y\rhen  converted  into  blubber. 

The  tide  goes  a  league  beyond  Trois 
Rivieres,  which  is  thirty  leagues  higher 
up  the  river.  .The  difference  of  the  tide 
at  this  place  is  generally  between  forty-five 
and  forty-eight  feet,  but  at  the  new  and 
full  moon,  from  fifty-four  to  fifty-feven, 
which  is  very  confiderable. 

The  river  is  three  quarters  of  a  m.ile 
broad  here,  and  ?s  the  fea  water,  though 
it  does  not  come  up  immediately  to  the 

town. 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  3^ 

tov/n,  renders  it  fomewhat  bracldih,  the 
inhabitants  make  ule  of  it  only  for  cuU- 
nary  purpofes,  having  fpring  water  for 
tlieir  beverage. 

Ill  failing  up  the  river  St.  Laurence,  the 
firft  plantations  you  meet  with  are  about 
fifty  leagues  on  the  fouth,  and  tvvrenty  on 
the  north  fide  of  the  river,  below  Quebec : 
they  are  but  thinly  fcattered,  and  their 
produce  very  indifferent.  The  fertile  fields 
commence  near  the  capital,  which  I  am 
informed  grow  better,  the  nearer  you  ad- 
vance to  Montreal. 

About  half  way  up  the  river,  we  came 
to  the  IJles  aux  OifeaiiXy  and  pafled  them 
about  the  diftance  of  a  cannon  fhot ;  they 
are  two  rocks  that  rife  up  in  a  conical  form, 
about  60  feet  above  the  furface  of  the 
water,  the  largeft  of  which  appeared  to  be 
about  two  or  three  hundred  feet  in  circum- 
ference; they  are  very  near  one  another. 

Vol.  I.  D  and 


34  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

and  there  does  not  appear  a  fufHclent 
depth  of  water  betv/een  them  for  a  fmall 
fhallop.  It  is  diiiicult  to  fay  what  color 
thefe  are  of,  as  both  furface  and  banks  are 
entirely  covered  with  the  dung  of  the 
birds  that  refort  thither  j  however,  there 
were  difcernable  in  places  fome-  veins  of  a 
reddifa  caft. 

One  of  the  mates  of  the  fliip  faid  he  had 
been  on  them,  and  had  loaded  a  fmall  flial- 
lop  with  eggs,  which  v/ere  of  different 
forts,  and  that  the  flench  ariiing  from  the 
dung  was  alm.oft  infupportable.  Befides 
the  fea-gulls,  and  other  fowls  from  the 
neighbouring  lands,  there  is  found  a 
fpecies  that  cannot  fiy.  It  appears  to  me 
wonderful,  in  fo  prodigious  a  multi- 
tude of  nefrs,  how  every  one  finds  its 
own.  At  my  requeft,  the  Captain  of  the 
Ihip  fired  a  cannon  (hot,  which  fpread  the 
alarm  over  all  this  feathered  common- 
wealth, vs^hen  there    arofc  over  the  two 

iflands 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  35 

iflands  a  thick  cloud  of  fowl,  at  leaft  two 
or  three  leagues  in  circuit. 

One  material  circumllance  I  forgot  to 
mention  to  you,  happened  in  our  voyage 
to  this  place.  In  the  middle  of  Augufr, 
after  we  had  been  incommoded  for  fevcral 
days  v/ith  excellive  heats,  one  morning, 
foon  after  we  got  up,  we  felt  fijch  an  in- 
tenfe  cold,  that  both  the  Captain  and  my- 
felf  were  obliged  to  put  on  our  great  coats. 
We  could  by  no  mxeans  imagine  the  caufe  of 
this  alteration,  the  weather  being  extremely 
fine,  and  particularly  as  the  wind  did  not 
blow  from  the  north.  But  on  the  third 
morning,  juft  before  day-break,  a  failor 
called  out  with  all  his  might,  "  luff,  luff," 
which  the  man  at  the  helm  had  fcarcely 
done,  when  an  enormous  piece  of  ice  pafTed 
along-fide  of  the  veiTel,  v/hich  infallibly 
mufi:  have  daflied  her  to  pieces,  had  flie 
ftmck  againft  it.  At  day-break  we  faw  it, 
when  it  appeared  to  be  about  fix  times  as 
D  2  large 


3"  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

large  as  our  lliip,  and  twice  the  heighth  of 
its  malls.  You  well  know  that  only  one 
third  of  ice,  while  fwimming,  appears 
above  water,  and  w^hen  that  is  confidered, 
I  do  not  wonder  that  the  ignorant  iliould 
not  readily  alFent  to  the  relations  given  by 
travellers,  of  thefe  frozen  productions  of 
nature. 

Having  already  fwelled  this  letter  be- 
yond its  intended  limits,  and  wifliing  to 
avoid,  as  much  as  pofiible,  being  too  dif- 
fufe  on  trivial  fubjects,  I  fhall  conclude 
it  with  my  befl  wilhes  for  your  v/elfare 
and  happinefs,  affuring  you  that  I  araj 
with  friendfhip  and  efleem. 

Yours,  £cG. 


LET- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  37 


LETTER       V. 

Sluelec,  0^1.  2^th,   1 776, 
DEAR  SIR, 

A  GREEABLE  to  my  promlfe  in  a 
-  former  letter,  I  fliall  now  proceed 
in  the  defcription  of  the  river  St.  Laurence, 
with  fome  occurrences  which  hefel  us, 
previous  to  our  arrival  at  Quebec. 

One  of  the  fineft  bays  to  be  met  with  in 
going  up  the  river,  is  that  of  St.  Paul, 
and  as  we  v^ere  under  the  neceiTity  of  an- 
choring oppofite  to  it,  till  the  return  of 
tide,  I  prevailed  on  the  Captain  to  go  on 
fliore. 

D  3  Upon 


38  INTERIOR    TR  AVELS 

Upon  our  landing,  the  Frieft  of  the 
pariili  came  and  invited  us  to  his  hovife, 
treating  us  with  much  hofpitaUty.  He 
was  a  man  rather  advanced  in  years,  a 
native  of  France,  and  pofieiTeid  of  great 
learning;  he  had  been  recommended  by 
the  French  Court  to  the  Bifhop  of  Quebec, 
while  this  province  vv^as  under  tlicir  go- 
vernment, and,  as  I  am  afraid  is  the  cafe 
with  too  many  well  deferving  charadlers, 
was  poorly  rewarded,  by  being  made  Prieit 
of  this  fmall  parifli,  for  feme  eiTential  fer- 
vices  he  had  rendered  the  French,  v/hich, 
however,  has  many  privileges  annexed  to 
it. 

From  the  great  veneration  and  refpecl 
that  was  fliev/n  him,  one  would  naturally 
conclude  he  was  much  beloved  by  his  pa- 
ri fnioners,  and  his  converfation  turned 
upon  making  them  happy,  by  inilru^ling 
them  both  in  religious  and  moral  duties, 
encouraging  induiby,  and  divelling  them 

of 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  39 

of  thofe  innate  favage  dlfpofitions,  which, 
he  obferved,  the  lower  fort  of  Canadians 
are  but  too  prone  to. 

It  was  impoflibic  to  fay  which  fliould  be 
moil  admired,  his  fmile  of  welcome,  the 
neatnefs  of  the  repair,  or  the  hilarity  of 
his  converfation ;  all  of  which  gave  me  the 
greater  pleafure,  when  put  in  contrail  witli 
the  other  French  Priefls  I  have  met  with, 
who  are  auflere  and  contra6led,  and  fo 
difgufi:ing,  that  rather  than  fit  down  with 
them,  I  would  eat  hay  with  my  hcrfe. 

This  bay  is  about  eighteen  leagues  be- 
low Quebec,  containing  only  this  fmall 
parifn,  which  is  feme  diftance  from  the 
fliore  of  the  bay,  on  a  low  plain,  formed 
by  the  river.  It  is  furrounded  v/ith  ex- 
ceeding high  mountains  on  every  lidc,  ex- 
cepting one  large  gap,  which  runs  parallel 
to  the  river.  The  farms  are  at  fome  dif- 
tance from  each  ether,  and  the  church  is 
D  4  reckoned 


40  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

reckoned  one  of  the  mofl  ancient  in  Ca- 
nada, which  feeras  confirmed  by  its  bad  ar- 
chitefturCj  and  the  want  of  ornaments  j  the  • 
walls  are  formed  of  pieces  of  timber,  erect- 
ed at  two  feet  diftanee,  which  fiipport  the 
roof,  and  between  thefe  timbers  the  fpace 
is  filled  up  with  a  kind  of  lime-Hate. 
The  church  has  no  fteeple,  its  roof  is  fiat, 
and  above  this  rocf  a  bell  is  fixed  in  the 
open  air.  Moil  of  the  country  around  this 
bay  belongs  to  the  Prieft,  who  lets  it  to 
the  farmers. 

The  inhabitants  chiefly  live  by  agri- 
culture, and  the  profits  arifmg  from  their 
commerce  in  tar,  which  they  extract  from 
the  red  pine,  by  making  an  incifion  into 
the  tree  in  the  fpring  of  the  year,  when  the 
fap  is  rifuig,  and  before  the  tree  has  Hopped 
running,  it  will  produce  feveral  gallons  of 
turpentine,  which  they  eafdy  manufacture 
into  tar. 


It 


Through  America.  41 

It  may  be  conjeftured,  that  the  country 
iituated  upon  the  bay  of  this  river  being 
low,  it  was  originally  part  of  the  bottom 
of  the  river,  and  was  formed  either  by  the 
decreafe  of  water,  or  increafe  of  earth,  car- 
ried from  the  brooks,  or -thrown  on  it  by 
ftorms,  as  a  great  part  of  the  plants  that 
grow  here  are  marine.  But  in  order  fully 
to  inform  myfelf  whether  it  was  really  as  I 
apprehended,  I  enquired  of  feveral  of  the 
inhabitants,  if  ever  they  had  found  any 
iliells  in  digging,  who  anfwered,  that  they 
had  never  met  with  any  thing  but  different 
iiinds  of  earth  and  fand. 

There  is  one  thing  very  remarkable,  of 
which  we  had  a  proof:  the  wind  is  gene- 
rally different  in  the  bay  to  what  it  is  in 
the  river,  for  upon  failing  into  the  bay  we 
had  as  favourable  a  wind  as  could  blow, 
but  in  the  moment  of  entrance,  it  was  di- 
reftly  the  reverfe,  which  is  thus  acounted 
for :  the  bay  being  furrounded  on  all  f^des, 

except 


42  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

except  one,  with  high  mountains,  and 
covered  with  tall  woods,  when  the  wind 
comes  from  the  river,  it  ftrikes  againil 
fome  of  thefe  mountains,  where  it  is  re- 
pelled, and  confequently  takes  an  oppofite 
direction. 

The  people  who  inhabit  this  bay,  as 
likewife  thofe  fettled  lower  down  the  river, 
feem  very  poor  3  they  have  the  necellaries 
of  life  in  abundance,  but  debar  themfelves 
of  the  comforts  that  ihould  arife  from^ 
them,  living  chiefiy  upon  bread  and  milk, 
and  carrying  t^eir  other  provifions,  fuch 
as  butter,  cheefe,  iiefh,  poultry,  eggs,  &c. 
to  market,  where  having  difpofed  of  them, 
they  purchafe  cloatlis,  brandy,  and  drefles 
for  the  women.  Yet  notwithftanding 
their  pauvre  manner  of  living,  they  are 
always  chearful  and  in  high  fpirits. 

Our  objeci:  on  going  on  fhore  was  not 
fo  much  to  gratify  our   curiofity,  as  to 

procure 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  43 

procure  fome  vegetables ;  and  as  the  Cap- 
tain of  the  fliip  could  not  fpeali  a  word  of 
French,  as  indifferent  a  Frenchman  as  you 
Imow  me  to  be,  I  was  obliged  tO'  be  the 
interpreter  on  this  occafion.  I  however 
made  the  inhabitants  underirand  me  very 
well,  till  I  alked  for  fome  potatoes,  by  the 
ufual  fchool  term  of  pcmmes  de  terre^  and 
by  which  I  underiland  they  are  called  in 
France;  yet,  notwithf!:anding  the  Cana- 
dians are  allov/ed  to  fpeak  as  pure  French 
as  at  Paris,  I  could  not  make  them  com- 
prehend what  it  was  I  v/anted,  the  man 
continually  faying,  Monfieur^  je  fids  hlen 
fache  de  ?ie  pou'voir  comprejidre  ce  que  vous 
Jhiihailez^  at  the  fame  time  expreflinp- 
great  uneafmefs,  as  I  repeatedly  afTured 
him,  que  fetois  bienfurquil  en  avoit,  which 
feemed  to  vex  him  ftill  more.  How- 
ever, in  walking  over  his  plantation,  I 
happened  to  fee  a  parcel  in  the  corner  of 
a  filed;  pointing  to  them  I  faid,  Vcila 
ce  que  je  demande,    upon    which,    with 

great 


44  r-KTEHIOR     TRAVELS 

great  joy  in  his  countenance,  he  ex- 
elaimed,  Oh !  Moiijiew%  ce  font  des  futaf^ 
futat  J  adding,  with  great  heartinefs^, 
^'il  etoit  bien  aife  d'etre  en  etat  de  me  fatis- 
faire.  Upon  my  telling  him,  in  Eng- 
land we  called  them  pommes  de  terj-e^  he 
added,  with  a  remark  which  I  fhould  wot 
have  expelled,  ^e  ce  nom  leur  corive-r 
wit  inieux  que  tout  autre.  As  I  paid  hini 
very  liberally  for  the  vegetables  we  had  of 
him,  he  faid,  with  great  exprcffioii  of 
gratitude,  Ah !  Monfiew\  je  me  fouvien-^ 
drai  toiijoiirs  de  'vos  hordes  et  des  pommes  dd 
terre\ 

Canada,  from  the  fertility  of  its  foil,  and 
the  falubrity  of  its  cHmate,  you  would 
naturally  im^agine,  contributed  greatly  to 
its  own  profperity ;  bat  thefe,  as  in  mofl 
other  fituations,  are  counterbalanced  by  its 
difadvantages.  Canada  has  only  one  river 
for  its  exports  and  imports,  and  even  this  is 
fo  blocked  up  v^ith  ice,  as  not  to  be  navi- 
gable 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  ^5 

gable  during  fix  months,  while  heavy  fogs 
render  the  navigation  flow  and  difficult 
the  remainder  of  the 'year.  And  although 
the  produce  of  Canada  is  fuperior  to  that 
of  the  other  provinces,  flill  the  latter,  not 
having  fnnilar  impediments  to  encounter, 
will  alwavs  have  a  decided  advanta2:e  over 
this,  in  the  convenience  of  almoil  uninter- 
rupted navigation. 

The  farm  houfes  are  moftly  built  of 
timber,  confifting  of  three  or  four  rooms, 
and  in  one  they  have  an  iron  flove,  which 
is  rendered  fo  hot,  as  to  communicate  fuf- 
ficient  warmth  to  the  reft.  The  roofs 
are  covered  with  boards,  and  the  crevices 
and  chinks  of  the  timbers  are  filled  with 
elay,  and  their  out  buildings  are  thatched 
with  ft  raw; 

Below  the  bay  of  Gafpey  there  is  an 
ifland,  called  IJle  Percee ;  on  your  approach 
to  it,  it  has  tlie  appearance  of  the  frag- 

nient 


46  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

ment  of  an  old  wall,  being  a  fleep  rocl<  of 
about  thirty  fathoms  in  length,  ten  in 
heighth,  and  four  in  breadth,  which  the 
pilot  told  us  was  reported  formerly  to  have 
joined  Mont  Joli,  which  flands  oppofite  to 
it  upon  the  Continent.  This  rock  has  in 
the  center  of  it  an  opening,  in  the  form  of 
an  arch  (through  which  a  fmall  fchooner 
might  pafs  in  full  fail) ;  from  which  cir- 
cumilance,  you  will  eafily  imagine,  it  de- 
lives  its  name  of  IJle  Percce. 

The  laft  object  that  attrafts  your  atten- 
tion before  you  enter  the  harbour  of  Que- 
bec, is  the  ifie  of  Orleans,  a  moft  beauti- 
ful large  iiland,  fituated  in  the  middle  of 
the  river  St.  Laurence.  It  is  feven  leagues 
and  a  half  long,  and  two  broad,  in  the 
\yideft  part,  very  high,  with  fnores  ex- 
tremely fteep  and  vv'oody,  though  in  fome 
places  there  is  a  gradual  defcent  to  the 
river,  and  where  that  is  the  cafe,  it  is  en- 
tirely free  from  woods,  and  upon  thefe 

fpots 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  47 

fpots  there  are  farm   houfes  clofe  to  the 
fliore. 

The  ifle  itfelf  is  well  cultivated,  and  the 
eye  is  continually  amufed  with  large  ftone 
houfes,  corn  fields,  meadows,  paflures  and 
woods,  with  the  addition  of  feveral  good 
ftone  churches,  fome  of  v/hich  ftand  fo 
clofe  to  the  river,  and  it  being  Sunday 
when  we  pafled  the  ifiand,  that  we  heard 
them  at  mafs. 

The  river  St.  Laurence,  till  you  come 
to  this  iiland,  is  m.oillv"  four  or  five  leagues 
in  breadth,  but  after  you  pafs  it,  fliddenly 
narrows,  fo  as  to  be  no  more  than  a  mile 
broad  at  Quebec,  and  from  which  circum- 
ftance  this  city  derives  its  name,  from,  the 
Indian  v/ord  Quebeio,  or  Quebec,  which 
fignifies  a  flrait  or  narrowing. 

Shortly  after  we  had  palled  this  ifland, 
and  turned  Point   Levy ;    we  entered  the. 

harbour. 


4^  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

harbour,  which  has  the  appearance  of  a 
large  bay,  for  Point  Levy  ftretches  itfelf 
out  tov/ards  the  Ifle  of  Orleans,  fo  as  to 
liide  the  fouth  channel ;  and  that  ifland 
projects  fo  as  to  conceal  the  north. 

On  entrance,  you  r.re  ilruck  with  the 
grandeur  and  confufion  and  variety  of 
objects  that  prefent  themfelves:  fronting 
is  the  city  5  on  the  right  is  the  beautiful 
fall  of  Montmorency,  and  a  view  up  the 
river  St.  Charles ;  on  the  left  there  is  an 
extenfive  view  up  the  river  St.  Laurence, 
and  over  the  falls  of  Montmorency  5  a  de- 
lightful profpect  of  feveral  leagues  round 
the  country,  interfperfed  with  the  villages 
of  Beauport,  Charlebourg,  &;c.  a  particular 
account  of  which  I  ihall  give  you  in  my 
ncxti 

I  am,  yours,  &c. 


LET- 


T  rt  R  6  u  G  H   A  ^i  erica.  49' 


b    E    T    T    E    R        YL 


f^ehec,  Q^lohvr  z-jth,   1776. 


MV  BEAR  FRIEND, 

N  my  defcription  of  this  province,  you 
milft  not  expe6l  a  tirefome  detail 
of  diilances,  or  a  romantic  defcription  of 
the  country,  but  a  few  general  obferva- 
tions,  as  I  fhall  pafs  through  the  different 
parts  of  it,  which  are  deferving  notice. 

This  city,  the  capital  of  Canada,  from 
the  fmgularity  of  its  fituation,  boails  of 
having  that  which  no  other  city  in  the 
knov/n  world  pOiTeires,  a  frefli  water  har- 
bour, an  hundred  and  twenty  leagues  from 

Vol.  I.  E  th^ 


so  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

the  fea,  capable  of  eontaining  an  hundred 
fhips  of  the  line;  it  is  built  in  the  form  of 
an  amphitheatre,  on  the  declivity  of  a  pe- 
ninfula,  formed  by  the  rivers  St.  Laurence 
and  St.  Charles,  and  commands  a  profpect 
over  extenfive  fields,  which  appears  richj 
lively  and  beautiful. 

This  city  fuifered  fo  much  during  the 
long  fiege,  I  aft  winter,  that  it  will  by  no^ 
means  anfwer  th-e  beautiful  defcription 
given  by  that  elegant  writer  Mrs.  Brookes, 
in  her  Emily  Montague,  for  many  houfes 
v^ere  deftroyed  for  fuel,  o-thers  to  prevent 
harbouring  the  enemy,  and  fhot  and  fliells 
C9i^tinuaily  defacing  and  burning  the  reft,- 
you  mull  eafdy  imagine,  greatly  contribute 
to  deftroy  all  ideas  of  regularity. 

The  city  is  divided  into  two  towns,  dif- 
tinguiflied  by  the  upper  and  the  /owef\ 
which,  during  the  fiege,  were  feparatedby  a 

ftrong 


THROUGH    AMERICA.'  ^t 

ftroiig  ftockade,  which  proved  extremely 
fortunate  for  us,  as  the  enemy  got  into 
the  lower  town,  but  not  being  able  to 
keep  poiTeffion,  they  fet  it  on  fire,  and 
nearly  deftroyed  the  whole  of  it. 

There  are  two  communications  from  the 
lower  to  the  upper  town,  the  one  for  car- 
riages, by  aferpentine  road  up  a  very  fleep 
ai'cent,  and  the  other  for  foot  palTengers, 
up  a  flight  of  fleps  cut  out  of  the  rock. 

The  carriage  road  to  the  upper  town, 
as  well  as  the  ftreets  in  general,  are  almoft 
impaiTable  for  either  man  or  beail,  never 
having  been  paved  fince  the  liege,  when 
the  pavement  was  entirely  torn  up,  that 
the  fhells  might  bury  themfelves  in  the 
ground  before  they  burft,  whereby  they 
were  rendered  lefs  dangerous. 

The  diilrefles  of  the  inhabitants  in  a 

befieged  town,  at  all  times  are  very  great; 

E  2  but 


5S  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

but  here  they  were  rendered  particularly 
fo,  from  the  extreme  feverity  of  the 
weather,  being  deprived  of  fuel,  and  com- 
pelled to  refide  in  their  cellars,  as  the  only 
place  that  could  afford  them  the  leafh 
flielter. 

The  Governor's  houfe  fiands  upon  an 
high  eminence,  and  being  bomb-proof,, 
the  family  thought  themfslves  i]i  perfect 
fecurity:  from  its  elevation  too,  it  was 
imagined  to  be  out  of  the  reach  of  cannon 
fliot.  One  evening,  however,  t]iey  were 
rather  unpleafantly  convinced  of  their 
error^  by  a  fnot  pafling  through  an  ad- 
joining room  to-  that  in  which  they  were 
playing  at  cai'ds  j  this  threw  them  into  no 
little  confufion,  and  obliged  them  to  retire 
to  that  part  of  the  houfe  in  which  the 
other  inhabitants  were  compelled  to  refidc. 

You  may  remember,  fome  months  be- 
fore   my  departure  from   England,  that 

Mr. 


THROUGH     AMERICA.'  ^^ 

Mr.  W— ,  who  is  a  ifon  vivanf,  jocularly 
remarked,  if  he  were  confined  to  any  fingle 
room,  it  fliould  be  the  cellar  j  he  was  then 
at  the  Governor's,  enjoying  his  favourite 
Vvdfh,  happy  as  good  company  and  good 
wine  could  make  him,  the  found  of  eveiy 
'Cannon  being  the  fignal  for  a  bumper. 

A  jVIajor  who  v/as  here  during  the  fiege, 
exprefled  his  aflonidiment  to  me  that  the 
place  held  out  fo  long,  having  an  amazing 
feverity  of  weather,  and  numberlefs  other 
difficulties  to  encounter;  and  that  its 
fafety  was  entirely  owing  to  the  great 
exertions  of  General  Carleton,  who  con- 
tinually encouraged  the  inhabitaiTts  to 
aftion,  for  they  chiefly  compofed  the 
ilrength  of  the  garrifqn. 

The  fuburb  of  St.  Fatixhoiirg  is  entirely 

deftroyed,  but  that,  as  well  as  the  lower 

town,  is  now  rebuilding,  and  when  com- 

pleated,  nuifl  add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of 

E  3  the 


54  Interior   travels 

the  city.  There  are  feveral  quays,  and  a 
convenient  place  for  heaving  down  fhips 
to  be  repaired,  called  Cid  de  Sac,  where  tlie 
King's  fhips  lay  up  during  the  winter,  to 
preferve  them  from  danger  upon  the 
freezing  and  breaking  up  of  the  ice,  vv^hich 
is  more  hazardous  than  you  can  imagine ; 
for  unlefs  the  fhips  are  got  into  this  Cul 
de  Sac  in  proper  time,  they  are  very  much 
damaged,  and  fometimes  totally  loft,  by 
the  amazing  illands  of  ice  that  float  down 
the  river. 

This  city  is  at  prefent  badly  accommor 
dated  as  to  taverns,  there  being  but  one  in 
the  upper,  and  another  in  the  lower  town, 
both  of  them  in  the  worft  fhate  imaginable ; 
for  although  they  provide  good  dinners, 
the  reft  of  the  accommodations  are  fuch  as 
would  difgrace  the  meaneft  public-houfe 
in  London.  No  attendance  whatever  from 
fervants;  no  feperate  apartments,  and 
fifteen  or  twenty  people  are  obliged  to 
;         .  fleep 


THROUGH    AMERICA,  ^^ 

deep  m  one  room,  about  a  yard  apart  from 
each  other  J  ufually  deprived  of  natural 
reft  in  fuch  vile  dormitories,  one  fcarcely 
feels  refreflied  the  whole  day,  and  let  me 
aflure  you,  fuice  I  have  been  here,  I  have 
not  enjoyed  a  good  night's  repofe,  from 
the  fonorous  mufic  1  am  furrounded  v/ith, 
arifmg  from  that  natural  and  almoft  uni- 
verfal  wind  infti'ument,  the  nofe.  The 
owners  of  thefe  taverns  imagine,  if  they 
give  good  dinners  and  good  wdne,  they 
perform  wonders.  This,  however,  may  be 
faid  in  their  favour,  as  to  accommodation, 
that  this  city  has  been  for  many  months 
pad  in  a  very  deranged  ilate,  owing  to  the 
late  fiege. 

The  Canadians  of  the  higher  ciafs  are 
very  polite  and  attentive  to  ftrangers ;  a 
few  days  fmce,  I  was  invited  to  dine  with 
one  of  the  principal  merchants,  cbez  Mo?!- 
fieur  Roherdeau)  the  dinner  was  entirely 
after  the  French  failiion,  and  difplayed 
E  4  with 


■50  .INTERIOR     TRAVEL « 

with  much  taile,  but  fuch  was  the  per- 
yerienefs  pf  my  Enghfh  ftomach,  that  it 
could  not  rdiili  one  of  their  made  difhes ; 
and  although  I  endeavoured  to'  eat,  out  of 
compliment,  the  mailer  of  the  houfe  per- 
ceived I  did  not  do  it  \yith  any  gudo  3  he 
then  faid,  Ah !  Monjieuy^  I'ous  jie  faites  que 
4'arrrijer  dans  ce  pays  -,  qiiand  vcus  aurez  ete 
avec  Jious  iin  certain  tems,  vous  aimerez  beau- 
coup  not  re  cuifme.  ^e  fids  hi  en  f ache  que  dans 
ce  moment  il  ne  fe  trouve  rien  a  lotre  gout, 
7nais  quand  vous  me  ferez  l'ho?2?teur  de  venir 
une  autrefois  chez  moi^  faiirai  Join  d' avoir  du 

HOAST    BEEF  Ct  du    PLUME  PUDDING  qUC  ks 

Anglois  aiment  tant.  When  the  defert  came, 
whichwas  before  the  cloth  was  removed,  I 
made  amends  for  mv  not  being:  able  to  eat 

■J  o 

at  dinner,  which  the  mailer  of  the  houfe 
pbferving,  faid.  Ah  I  Morijieur^  ce  ncjl  pas 
que  vous  ne  vous  Jouciez  pas  dcs  viandes^  mats 
c.efi  que  vous  etes  un  pcu  ccmmc  ks  enfans^ 
vous  aimez  les  friandifes  -,  v/hen,  fearful  Icil 
I  fhould  be  difpleafed  at  his  raillery,,  with 

a  polite- 


♦THROUGH    AMERICA.  57 

a  politenefs  truly  French,  he  filled  his 
glalSj  and  added,  Alloiis,  Monfmir^  verfez 
et  yive  le  Roi  d'Angkterre, 

Fearful  of  lofnig  tKe  opportunity  that 
now  prefents  itfelf  of  conveying  this  to 
Eagland,  I  have  but.juft  time  fubfcribe 
myfelf. 

Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


'5$  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER        VIL 


^ebec,  OBober  ^Oth,  1 776, 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

'np^HE  hafty  conclufion  I  was  obliged  to 
"^  put  to  my  lail,  having  prevented  me 
from  entering  fo  fully  into  the  defcription 
of  this  city  as  I  had  intended,  I  nowtranf- 
mit  to  you  fome  further  particulars  rela^ 
live  to  its  fiege,  and  the,  religion  of  its  in^ 
habitants. 

The  caufeway  by  which  General  Mont-* 
gomery  made  his  attack,  is  not  more  than 
twenty-four  feet  wide  j  on  one  fide  is  a 
lofty  perpendicular  rock,  and  on  the  other 
a  fteep  precipice,  without  any  fence,  dov/n 

to 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  59 

to  the  liver ;  this  caufeway  was  defended 
by  two  ftrong  barriers,  and  w^ere  I  induced 
to  give  an  opinion,  nothing  but  a  defperate 
effort  could  juftify  the  attack.  The  event 
fatally  proved  it  s  for  upon  the  advance 
of  the  enemy,  the  firfl:  barrier  w^as  aban- 
doned, y/hich,  after  they  had  broke  down, 
fiuflied  with  fuccefs,  and  the  hopes  of 
eafily  gaining  the  upper  town,  they  ruilied 
on  (with  an  intrepidity  that  might  expe6l 
every  thing  from  their  valor)  to  the  fe- 
cond  barrier,  \\iiere  two  pieces  of  cannon 
were  concealed,  and  upon  their  approach 
were  immediately  fired,  when  great  num- 
bers of  them  w^ere  killed  and  wounded, 
and  in  their  retreat  many  fell  down  the 
precipice  i  this  defeat  greatly  contributed 
to  put  an  end  to  the  fiege,  the  termi- 
nation of  which,  liad  nearly  been  fruf- 
trated,  by  the  eager  impetuofity  of  the 
failors,  who  were  pofted  with  thofe  guns, 
as  they  could  fcarcely  be  reilrained  from 
firing  them  when  the  enemy  attacked  the 

firfl 


i)0  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

flrft  barrier,  which,  if  they  had  done,  tlic 
flaughter  would  not  have  been  fo  great,  nor 
the  enemy  perhaps  have  loft  their  brave 
Commander.  But  by  the  threats  of  the 
officers  upon  duty  at  that  poft,  the  guns 
were  not  fired  till  the  enemy  were  within 
a  few  yards  of  thern  j  and  as  they  advanced 
abreaft,  as  many  as  the  caufev/ay  would 
admit  of,  you  may  eafily  conceive  what 
havoc  there  muft  have  been  amongft  them. 

In  this  daring  enterprize  fell  a  nian,  who 
lived  long  enough  to  eftabliih  a  reputation, 
Nl'C  pGterlt  fcrrum^  ncc  edax  aholere  vetujlas, 
quod  nee  yovis  ira  ncc  ignis^  as  no  doubt  it 
will  be  handed  down  by  the  Americans  to' 
the  lateft  ages.  He  died  too  foon  for  the 
fupport  of  that  uri natural  faction,  to 
which,  from  miftaken  principles,  he  was 
deeply  attached;  and  being  a  man  wor- 
thy of  fome  notice,  you  lliall  know  the 
little  hiftory  I  have  been  able  to  collecl  of 
him. 

la 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  6l 

In  the  latl  war  he  was  an  officer  in  ov.r 
fei*vice,  and  diftinguillied  himfelf  in  feveral 
inflances.  At  the  peace  he  came  over  to 
this  country,  and  married  an  American 
kdy,  where  by  his  condu6l  and  agreeable 
manners,  he  was  refpecled  as  much  as  if 
lic  had  been  a  native  j  and  being,  from  his 
marriage  and  long  refidence  in  the  countiy, 
confidered  as  a  man  fit  to  be  trufled  with  a 
command,  he  was  appointed  Brigadier  Ge- 
neral by  the  Congrefs  j  this  commiffion  he 
wiflied  to  decline,  feeling  a  compunftion, 
as  a  native  of  Great  Britain,  and  once  in 
the  King's  fervice,  to  bear  arms  againfl: 
his  Sovereign.  His  wavering  inclination 
^yas  unfortunately  fubdued,  by  the  over- 
perfuafion  of  a  fond  wife,  whom  he  loved 
moft  afFeftionately,  and  the  importunate 
folicitation  of  his  relations  and  friends. 
When  he  had  taken  a  decided  part,  his 
condu6l  fully  correfponded  with  the  high 
opinion  that  had  been  formed  of  his  abi- 
lities and  fidelity.     No  one  who  lived  fo 

fhort 


62  INTERIOR    T?.  AVELS 

fhort  a  time  in  their  employ,  could  render 
them  more  important  fervices,  or  do  their 
caufe  more  honor. 

When  he  had  been  induced  to  facrifice 
the  happinefs  he  enjoyed  in  private  life, 
and  enter  into  the  fervice  of  the  Congrefs, 
he  was  then  abfolved  from  all  viev/s  ad- 
verfe  to  their  party  (of  which  he  had  been 
fufpe6led)  and  conlidered  as  a  man  who 
took  a  part  in  the  caufe  from  confcience 
and  principle.  In  this  light  he  was  viewed 
while  living,  and  fpoken  of  when  dead.  He 
had  the  fingular  felicity  of  being  equally 
elleemed  by  the  friends  and  foes  of  the 
party  he  efpoufed  j  the  latter  acknowledg- 
ed his  vi^orth,  though  they  reprobated  the 
caufe  in  which  he  fell.  To  the  praife  of 
General  Carleton,  his  remains  were,  by 
the  General's  order,  interred  with  all  mi- 
litary honors. 


An 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  63 

Very  iliortly  after  this  repulfe,  an 
American  foldier,  in  attempting,  to  ftep 
out  of  his  batteaiix,  at  Wolfe's  Cove,  fell 
into  the  water,  and  catching  hold  of  a 
flake  of  ice  that  was  floating  down  the 
river,  he  got  upon  it,  and  was  carried 
down  the  ftream.  As  he  pafled  Quebec 
dole  to  the  fliore,  he  was  feen  by  a  cen- 
tinel,  who  obferving  a  man  in  diflrefs, 
called  out  for  help,  when  numbers  flew  to 
his  afliflance,  and  found  him  motionlefs ; 
by  the  help  of  fpirituous  liquors,  with 
fome  difficulty  they  brought  him  to  life  for 
a  moment,  and  jufl:  recovering  fpeech 
enough  to  tell  them,  that  the  city  would 
not  long  be  in  our  poflefTion,  he  inftantly 
expired. 

A  mile  from  the  city  is  a  Convent,  that 
was  once  poiTefTed  of  a  beautiful  garden, 
but  this,  as  well  as  their  chapel,  v/ith  the 
images  and  other  ornaments  of  their  reli- 
gion, are  greatly  injured.      The  enemy, 

after 


64  INTERIOR   Travels 

after  taking  poiTeffion  of  the  Convent^ 
converted  it  into  an  hofpital,  and  com- 
pelled the  nuns  to  attend  upon  their  fick 
and  wounded ;  and  what  was  flill  more 
perfecuting  to  their  religion  than  to  their 
willies,  fever al  of  the  nuns,  after  they 
had  abandoned  it,  proved  capable  of  in 
fome  meafure  making  up  for  the  ravages 
of  war,  by  producing  what  may  in  future 
become  the  ftrength  and  fupport  of  their 
country. 

There  are  feveral  churches  in  each  town, 
but  thofe  in  the  upper  are  the  moil  mag- 
nificent, and  have  failained  the  leaft  da- 
mage. The  largeft  of  thefe  churches,  and 
what  may  be  termed  the  cathedral,  has 
nothing  worthy  of  notice,  except  a  hand- 
fom.e  fteeple;  it  is  entirely  roofed  with 
ilate,  and  is  the  only  building  I  obferved 
that  has  this  advantage,  they  being  all 
covered  with  fhingles.  It  is  much  orna- 
mented in  the  infide  -,  the  galleiy  is  bold, 

light, 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  6^ 

light,  and  well  wrought,  furrounded  witli 
an  hon  balluftrade,  painted  and  gilt, 
of  curious  workmanfliip  J  one  thing,  how- 
ever, appears  very  fmgular,  that  the  pulpit 
is  likewife  gilt,  and  feems  to  have  had 
more  labor  bellowed  i/pori,  than  it  is  ever 
likely  to  have  withifi  it ;  there  are  three 
altars  hanclfomely  defigned,  and  fome  good 
pictures ;  it  is  without  any  dome  or  cu- 
pola, having  only  a  flat  ceiling,  very  curi- 
oufly  ornamented ;  it  is  not  as  in  moft 
^Cathedrals,  paved  with  ftone,  but  floored 
with  planks,  which  makes  this  church  the 
more  fupportable  in  winter  j  in  others 
you  are  generally  flai*ved  to  death  with 
cold.  After  the  Romifli  fervice  is  over, 
on  a  Sunday,  the  Governor,  with  the  offi- 
cers and  foldicrs  of  the  garrifon,  and 
the  Proteftant  inhabitants  of  the  city,  re- 
fort  thither  to  their  worfliip.  This  little 
circumfcance  I  mention  to  you,  as  the 
palTmg  of  the  Quebec  bill  made  fuch  a 
noife  in  England  5  clearly  to  fiiew  there 
Vol.  I.  F  is 


66  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

is  no  animofity  among  the  inhabitants,  on 
the  fcore  of  rehgion.  Where  the  Cana- 
dians, who  conftitute  the  principal  part  of 
the  inhabitants  of  this  province,  did  not 
interfere  with  our  religion,  I  cannot  but 
think  it  was  a  very  neceflary  and  politic 
ftep  in  Government  to  tolerate  theirs ;  as 
at  the  time  tlie  bill  palled,  it  was  judged 
proper  to  make  this  facrifice  to  them,  in 
order  to  gain  their  afFe6lions,  which  feem- 
ed  to  be  wavering,  whether  they  fliouid 
not  join  the  other  provinces  in  rebellion 
againft  England, 

For  my  ovv^n  part,  I  am  led  to  imagine, 
from  the  converfation  I  have  had  with  fe- 
veral  of  the  principal  inhabitants,  they 
never  were  in  the  leaft  apprehenfive  of  their 
religion  being  fiipprefied,  but  that  idea 
was  inftilled  into  their  minds  by  fome 
party  at  home,  who,  I  am  forry  to  obferve, 
are  more  dangerous  than  any  enemy  we 
can  pofiibly  have  abroad. 

With 


tiiROUGH    AMERICA*  67 

With  all  the  advantages  of  the  laws  of 
our  conftitution,  the  toleration  of  their 
religion,  and  the  bleflings  of  liberty,  the 
Canadians  are  by  no  means  well  affe8:ed 
to  the  Englilh  Government,  but  have  a 
flrong  propenfity  to  be  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  French  ;  and,  I  am  confident, 
would  aflift  the  Americans,  had  we  not 
fuch  a  povv^erful  force  in  this  province* 

The  garrifon  of  this  city,  and  a  few 
inhabitants  at  Montreal,  are  ftaunch  to 
the  intereils  of  Government  5  for  their 
fidelity  and  courage  have  been  proved; 
upon  the  commencement  of  the  fiege, 
the  General  ordered  every  one  out  of  the 
city,  that  he  could  entertain  the  lead  fuf- 
picion  of,  none  of  v/hcm  have  fince  made 
their  appearance. 

The  army  is  now  returning  from  the 

Lakes,  and  at  prefent  the  garrifon  confifts 

of  Colonel  Maclean's  regiment,  and  the 

F  2  recruits 


6S  ULTERIOR     TRAVELS 

recruits  lately  arrived  from  England  j  the 
34th  regiment  is  daily  expe6led,  as  the 
army  is  getting  into  v^inter  quarters.  Ge- 
neral Carleton  and  General  Burgoyne  are 
both  here,  the  latter  of  whom  fails  for 
England  in  a  few  days. 

My  friend  Captain  W — ri,  who  is  em- 
barking for  that  country  where  my  fondeil 
wifhes  are  placed,  will  deliver  you  this : 
he  has  juft  called  upon  me  for  my  letters. 
I  muft  therefore  conclude.  You  iliall  hear 
from  me  by  the  latefc  lliip  that  fails. 

Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


THROUGK    AMERICA.  69 


LETTER      VIII. 

^lehec,  Nov.  \th,   1 776, 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

VISITING  two  or  three  of  the  vil- 
lages round  this  city,  has  enabled 
me  to  give  you  fome  little  defcription  of 
the  country  and  its  inhabitants. 

About  Charlebourg  and  Beauport  it  is 
rather  champaign^  but  becomes  more  woody 
towards  Lorette.  The  farm  houfes  inter- 
fperfed  about  the  country  are  very  nu- 
merous, and  being  generally  whitened  on 
the  outfide,  form  a  neat  and  pifturcfquc 
appearance  :  their  houfes  moflly  confifl  of 
one  floor,  very  few  having  a  ftory  to  them, 
which  gives  rife  to  the  idea,  that  the  Ca- 
F  3  nadian§ 


70  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

nadians  will  tell  3.  flory  well,  though  they 
never  make  one. 


You  would  be  pleafed  to  find  them 
extremely  neat  in  their  houfes,  very  at- 
tentive to  their  cattle,  and  careful  of  the 
ilock  on  their  farms.  They  are  at  pre- 
fent  employed  in  cutting  and  ^Qttmg  in 
wood  for  the  winter,  for  themfelves  and 
tlie  market,  for  though  it  is  fo  early,  there 
has  been  a  fevere  fall  of  fnow  j  wood-cut- 
ting continues  all  this  month,  and  in  De- 
cember, when  the  winter  is  fet  in,  it  is  car- 
ried into  the  city  upon  fleighs  over  the  fnow, 
being  a  much  eafier  conveyance  than  with 
carts,  as  the  roads  are  fo  intolei^ably  bad. 

The  Canadians  in  general  are  a  fwarthy 
people,  and  low  in  flature^  their  drefs 
confifts  of  a  kind  of  jacket,  and  vv^hen  the 
Vv^eather  is  cold,  a  blanket  coat,  which 
they  faflen  round  them  with  a  woriled 
fafh.     They  moflly  wear  a  woollen  cap, 

but 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  7I 

but  In  the  cold  weather  a  fur  one,  and 
have  amazhig  long  queues,  of  which  they 
ai'e  exceedingly  proud.  They  are  fel- 
dom  or  ever  found  without  a  pipe  in 
their  mouths,  a  habit  which  they  acquire  in 
their  very  infancy.  I  was  much  furprized 
upon  going  into  one  of  their  houfes,  in 
which  there  was  a  large  family,  moftly 
boys,  to  find,  that  from  the  youngell  up 
to  the  father,  they  all  fmoalvcd ;  nay,  one 
of  three  years  old  had  a  pipe  in  his  mouth. 
Their  ufual  mode  of  living  being  chiefly 
milk  and  vegetables,  which,  joined  to  the 
number  of  the  fafl  days  impofed  on  them 
by  their  religion,  renders  them  a  very 
pieagre  and  flender  people. 

The  women  are  extremvdy  lively,  good- 
natured  and  obliging,  and  very  neat  in 
their  perfons,  but  have  not  the  lead  pre- 
tenfion  to  beauty.  The  men  are  far  fronr 
agreeable,  for  fmcc  they  have  enjoyed  the 
blellings  of  an  Englifli  Government,  they 
F  4  are 


72  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

are  become  infolent  and  overbearing,  eafily 
offended,  and  when  they  fancy  themfelves 
fo,  their  cry  is,  'Je  ^ais  le  dire  an  General 
Carleton  j  and  the  General  is  of  that  good- 
natured,  affable  difpofition,  that  he  alw^ays 
liflens  to  their  complaints,  and  is  conti- 
nually plagued  and  tormented  w^ith  fome 
of  the  moft  trivial  nature,  by  thefe  trouble- 
fome  and  tenacious  people,  for  they  con- 
ceive their  Governor  is  bound  to  hear 
them,  efpecially  their  Seigneurs,  or  Lords 
of  the  village  -,  it  is  a  title  you  have  not 
among  you,  but  I  aiTure  you  thofe  v^ho 
poilefs  it  here,  fancy  themfelves  of  no  little 
importance,  and  aiiiame  more  confequence 
than  the  firft  peer  in  England. 

Thefe  Seigneurs  are  defcendants  of  thofe 
officers  and  gentlemen  who  firft  fettled,  and 
had  grants  in  this  province,  when  Canada 
was  only  a  vaft  foreft ;  who,  not  being  pro- 
per perfons  to  cultivate  it  themfelves,  nor 
pollelled  of  a  fufficient  fund  to  pay  labour- 
ers. 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  73 

ers,  let  out  the  grounds  at  a  very  {lender 
quit  rent ;  fo  that  with  the  fines,  which 
were  here  very  Imall,  and  what  is  called 
the  Dt'oit  du  Moulin^  &  Metairie,  a  lord- 
fnip,  which  confifts  of  two  leagues  in 
front,  and  an  unlimited  depth,  can  yield 
them  no  great  revenue;  and  there  are 
many  planters  on  their  manors,  who  by 
their  induftry  have  become  wealthier 
than  the  owner  himfelf ;  notwithfiianding 
which  they  ftand  in  great  awe  of  thefe 
Seigneurs^  as  they  are  defcended  from  an- 
tient  nobility  in  France,  the  forefathers 
of  whom  were  permitted  by  Louis  XIV. 
to  exercife  commerce  as  well  by  fea  as  land, 
without  queftion,  interruption,  or  dero- 
gating from  their  quality  and  rights ;  and 
to  you,  who  fo  well  know  the  French,  I 
need  not  fay  in  what  manner  any  one  de- 
fcended from  nobility  condu6ls  himfelf, 
jand  the  hauteur  he  treats  every  one  with. 

About 


74  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

About  three  leagues  from  this  city  is  a 
nation  of  Indians,  who  live  at  a  fmall  vil- 
lage called  Indian  Lorette :  they  are  quite 
civilized,  have  a  church,  go  regularly 
to  niafs,  and  are  extremely  ingenious  in 
making;  bead  ornaments. 


^t) 


Thefe  Indians,  who  are  really  Chriilians, 
of  the  Romiih  perfuafion,  have  a  chapel 
built  nearly  on  the  model,  and  of  the  fame 
dimenfions  as  that  I  have  heard  you  relate 
you  met  with  in  Italy,  of  Santa  Cafa,  and, 
as  in  that,  have  an  image  of  the  Virgin, 
which,  upon  enquiry,  appears  to  be  a  copy 
of  that  very  ilatue.  Whether  it  was  the 
efFeft  of  imagination,  devotion,  or  of  any 
other  caufe,  I  cannot  fay,  but  upon  at- 
tending the  chapel,  I  was  feized  v/ith  an 
inward  and  facred  terror,  of  which  I  can 
give  no  account.  The  folid  piety  of 
the  Indians,  (whom  we  are  taught  to  be- 
lieve fo  naturally  ferocious,  as  no  edifi- 
cation, religious  or  moral,  can  overcome) 

added, 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  75 

added  to  the  doomv  horror  of  tiic  fitua- 
tion,  made  a  violent  impreffion  upon  me, 
which  became  the  more  flrong,  upon  ob- 
ferving  the  fervor  and  modelly  which  they 
difplayed  in  their  devotions. 

Thefe  Indians  had  a  great  number 
of  dogs  v/ith  them,  which  feems  to  be 
the  only  domeftic  animal  they  breed; 
they  are  trained  up  for  hunting,  and 
are  equal  to  any  hounds  j  appearing 
to  be  all  of  one  fpecies,  having  upright 
ears,  of  dark  brindled  color,  with  a  long 
fnout,  like  that  of  a  wolf.  None  of  our 
Englifh  dogs  are  more  remarkable  for  their 
fidelity,  which  is  rather  to  be  wondered  at, 
being  but  very  ill  fed,  and  never  carellcd 
by  themi. 

As  hereafter,  and  no  doubt  before  my 
return  to  England,  I  Ihall  meet  with  many 
Indians  of  different  nations,  cuftoms  and 

manners. 


76  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

manners,  give  me  leave  to  make  a  few  re- 
flexions upon  thefe  favages,  as  tliey  are 
called,  and  civilized  man. 

In  regard  to  the  former,  their  origin 
and  antiquity  is  quite  uncertain  5  the  only 
matter,  therefore,  to  be  confidered  is,  v^he- 
ther  thefe  untutored  nations  are  more  or 
lefs  happy  than  us  ?  Whether  they,  who 
are  in  the  condition  of  man  left  to  mere 
animal  inllinft,  pafiing  their  lives  in  hunt- 
ing, feeding,  producing  their  fpecies,  and 
repofmg  themfelves,  do  not  pafs  a  life  of 
more  felicity  than  ours,  who  can  enjoy 
every  luxury  of  life,  and  vary  our  indulg-:. 
cnces  and  wants  in  a  thoufand  ways  ,^ 

It  is  in  our  nature  and  difpofitions,  that 
we  muil  look  for  the  means  of  happincfs. 
Wherein  then  does  it  confift?  Prefent  fub- 
fiftence,  and  (which  I  think  there  can  be 
none  fo  hardened  as  not  to  have)  a  thought 
of  futurity,    and  the  hopes   of  enjoying 

every 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  77 

bleffing  that  is  attendant  on  it.  The  fa- 
vage  never  is  in  want ;  he  lays  in  no  ftores, 
becaufe  the  earth  and  waters  are  refervoirs 
to  fupply  them.  Fifli  and  game  are  to  be 
had  all  the  year.  The  favage  has  no  houfc 
to  fecure  him  from  the  inclemency  of  tlie 
external  air,  or  commodious  fire  places,  his 
furs  anfwering  all  thefe  purpofes.  His 
labor  is  but  for  his  own  benefit  j  he  Oceps 
when  he  is  weary,  and  is  a  ftranger  to  refl- 
lefs  nights.  Little  does  he  experience 
wearinefs  that  arifes  from  unfatisfied  de- 
fires,  or  that  uneafmefs  of  mind  which 
fprings  from  prejudice  or  vanity.  As  far  as 
I  can  perceive,  the  Indian  is  fubjeft  to  no 
evils  but  thofe  infiicledby  nature. 

In  what  manner  then  do  we  enjoy  a 
greater  happinefs  ?  Our  food  may  be  more 
wholefome  and  delicate,  our  cloaths  may 
be  fofter,  and  our  habitations  fecure  us 
better  againft  the  weather  ;  but  then  ob- 
ferve  the  comm»on  people,  who  are  the  fup- 

port 


yS  Ix\T£RIOR    TRAVELS 

port  of  civil  fociety ;  the  number  of  men 
who  in  all  ilates  bear  the  burthen  of  labor  5 
can  they  be  faid  to  be  happy,  who,  by  the 
luxuiy  and  police  of  their  governments, 
are  reduced  to  a  flate  of  fervitude  ?  And 
to  what  outrages  are  thofe  in  a  higher 
fphere  expofed  to  ?  If  you  are  pofTelTed  of 
any  property,  you  know  not  how  far  it 
may  be  called  your  own,  but  muft,  in  all 
probability,  divide  the  produce  between  the 
lawyer,  in  teaching  you  how  to  preferve  it, 
and  the  coilector,  who  comes  to  levy  un- 
limited taxes.  If  you  have  no  property, 
how  can  you  be  afTured  of  a  permanent 
fubfiftence  ?  What  induftry  or  invention 
is  fecure  againfl  the  vicifTitudes  of  fortune, 
or  the  encroachment  of  others. 

In  the  foreits  of  America,  if  there  is  any 
fcarcity  in  the  north,  the  favages  bend  their 
courfe  to  the  fouth ;  but  in  our  civilized 
ftates,  we  are  conhned  williin  certain  li- 
mits, where  if  famine,  or\yar,  or  peflilence, 

with 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  79 

with  all  their  concomitant  horrors,  flioiikl 
befal  us,  all  mull  participate. 

It  certainly  is  apparent  to  every  one, 
that  injuitice  prevails  in  the  partial  dif- 
tribution  of  fortunes  and  ftations,  which 
muft  be  the  eiTe6l  and  the  caufe  of  opprcf- 
fion.  In  vain  does  ciiftom,  prejudice, 
ignorance,  or  hard  labor,  fbupify  thofe  of 
the  lower  clafs,  fo  as  to  render  them  in- 
fenfible  of  their  degradation ;  it  is  not  in 
the  pov/er  of  religion  or  morality  to  hin- 
der them  from  feeing  and  feeling  the  ar- 
rangements of  policy,  in  the  diftribution 
of  what  we  call  good  and  evil ;  and,  no 
doubt,  you  muft  have  often  heard  a  poor 
man  expoftulating  with  heaven,  "  What 
have  I  done,  that  I  fnould  deferve  to  be 
born  in  fuch  an  indigent  and  dependent 
fituation  ?" 

The  reafon  v/e  prefer  our  condition  to 
that  of  the  favages  is,  becaufe  civilization 

has 


So  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

has  rendered  us  incapable  of  bearing  feme 
natural  hardlliips,  which  they  can  endure ; 
and  {imply  that  we  are  attached  to  fome 
indulgence  cuftom  has  made  neceffary  to 
us.  As  a  proof  of  this  aiTertion,  and  how  a 
civilized  man  may  habituate  himfelf  to  the 
iociety  of  favages,  and  return  to  this  ftate 
of  nature,  let  me  relate  the  fituation  of  a 
Scotchman,  who  v^^as  call:  away  upon  the 
Ifland  of  Fernande%^  where  he  lived  alone  > 
his  only  enjoyments  confifted  in  fupplying 
his  wants,  and  to  fuch  a  pitch  had  his  ideas 
of  happinefs  raifed  themfelves,  that  he  for- 
got his  country,  his  language,  his  name, 
and  even  the  articulation  of  words.  And 
after  a  banilliment  of  four  years,  from  the 
burthens  of  focial  life,  he  had  loft  all 
thought  of  the  paft,  or  anxiety  for  the 
future. 

One  of  the  firft  principles  we  imbibe, 
one  of  the  firft  inftinfts  of  man,  is  a 
confcioufnefs    of  independence;    and   no 

doubt 


T  H  R  O  U  G  li    A  M  E  R  I  C  A.  8  I 

doubt  but  you  niuft  have  obferved,  that 
the  mail  who  pofTefles  a  competent  lubfill- 
ence  is  incomparably  happier  than  the  rich 
m?ji,  wilo  is  retrained  by  prejudices  and 
fafhipns,  which  inceilantly  are  reminding 
him  of  the  lofs  of  his  hberty,  and  which 
too  frequently  are  the  occafion  of  tiie  raih 
and  fatal  acl  of  fuicidc. 

In  comparing  tlie  ftate  of  the  favages  to 
that  of  children,  the  queflion  may  eafdy 
be  decided,  which  has  been  fo  warmly  in 
debate  among  the  moil  learned  men,  "  whe- 
ther the  ftate  of  nature  has  the  advantage 
over  that  of  focial  life?"  And  you,  no 
doubt,  will  readily  allow,  that  your  Hate 
of  chiidliood,  notwithftan ding  the  reflraint 
of  education,  was  the  happiefl:  period  of 
your  life.  Nothing  furely  can  more  clearly 
indicate  the  happinefs  that  children  feel, 
than  that  habitual  chearfulnefs  they  de- 
monftrate,  vv^hen  not  under  the  fchool- 
mafter's  rod. 

Vol.  I.  G  After 


$2  I^NTERIOR     TRAVELS 

After  all,  a  fmgle  word  may  determine 
this  great  queftion.  Let  us  aik  the  civil- 
ized man  if  he  is  happy  j  and  the  favage 
whether  he  is  unhappy  ?  If  they  both 
anfwer  in  the  negative,  there  is  an  end  of 
the  difpute. 

How  mortifying  mufi  this  parallel  be 
to  civilized  nations  ?  And  the  more  painful 
the  refleftion,  as  it  awakens  the  feelings 
to  the  caufe  of  their  fufFerings  j  no  doubt 
but  they  will  one  time  or  other  be  con- 
vinced from  whence  it  arifes — from  the 
confufion  of  their  opinions,  from  the  de- 
fects of  their  political  conflitutions,  and 
from  the  eapricioufnefs  of  their  laws,- 
v/hich  ever  are  in  continual  oppofition  to- 
the  laws  of  nature.  But  for  fear  you 
think  I  am  growing  too  fententious,  I 
Ihall  return  to  my  defcription  of  this  pro- 
vince. 

The 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  83 

The  woods  of  Canada  abound  with  a 
lai'ge  kind  of  rabbits,  which  are  of  a  browu 
color  in  the  fummcr,  and  turn  white  in 
the  winter,  one  of  the  ciFe6ls  of  the  ex- 
treme cold  or  fnow  that  prevails  in  this 
climate  j  we  found  likewife  vaft  quantities 
of  partridges,  much  larger  than  ours,  which 
the  Canadians  call  pheafants  -,  there  are 
two  forts  of  them,  the  fpruce  and  the  pine : 
the  meat  of  the  former  is  very  delicious, 
to  thofe  Vvho  are  fond  of  the  flavor  of  the 
fpruce.  The  m.arket  at  this  place  is  well 
fupplied  with  all  kind  of  provifion,  fifh 
and  vesietables  in  abundance. 

The  place  bed  adapted  to  repay  the  la- 
bours of  the  hufbandiTian,  are  pointed  out 
to  him  by  the  fpontaneous  productions 
of  nature ;  wliere  the  pine,  the  fir-tree, 
and  the  cedar  grow  folitarily,  there  he 
finds  only  watry  and  fandy  grounds :  but 
wherever  the  foil  is  covered  v/lth  maple, 
oak,  beech,  yoke,  elm,  hickory,  and  fmall 
G  a  cherry- 


84  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

cherry-trees,  there  he  is  certain  to  meet 
with  a  reward  for  his  trouble  of  clearincr 
away  the  woods,  and  may  expeft  a  great 
increafe,  v/ithout  the  difhculty  of  ma- 
nui'ing. 

Being  informed  that  the  pacquet  fails 
this  afternoon,  and  having  feveral  otlier 
letters  to  write,  a  further  account  of  this 
province  mufl  be  delayed  till  my  next ;  and 
in  hopes  you  will  pai'don  my  breaking  oft 
fo  abruptly,  and  leaving  you  in  a  ilate 
of  fufpence,  I  remain, 

Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


THROUGH    A  ME  RICA.  85 


LETTER        IX,  , 


^ebec,  No-vember  ^th,  1776. 


MV  DEAR  FRIEND^ 

BLIGED  to  conclude  mylafl  rather 
hailily,  1  fliall  refume  my  obferva- 
tions  on  this  province,  without  any  apo- 
logy. 

Mofl:  of  the  plantations  in  Canada  are 
fufhcient  to  fupply  the  wants  of  their  re- 
fpeclive  owners,  and  there  are  few  of  them 
that  do  not  yield  pye,  mciize,  barley,  flax, 
hemp,  tobacco,  pulfe  and  pot-herbs,  in 
great  abundance,  and  thofe  of  an  excellent 
xjuality. 

G  X  It 


86  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

It  is  capable  of  furnifiii  ng  many  articles 
for  a  trade  witli  the  Weil  Indies,  which 
was  wholly  neglected,  v/hilii  this  province 
was  under  the  French  Government  j  but 
fince  in  our  pollellion,  great  quantities  of 
flour,  planks,  and  timber,  proper  for  build- 
ing,  have  been  exported  to  them  :   and  as 
there  is  perhaps  no  country  in  the  v/hole 
world  which  produces  m.ore  forts  of  wood, 
or  of   a  better  quality,    you  may   eafdy 
judge  v/hat  immenfe  riches  may  be  drawn 
from  thence,  it  ccnfiiling  principally  of 
Vv^ocds. 

I  know  not  whether  giving  you  an  ac- 
count of  the  extenfive  foreils  of  Canada, 
v/ill  afford  you  any  entertainment ;  but 
when  I  inform  you  that  they  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  being  as  ancient  as  the  VN^orld 
itielf,  and  v/ere  never  planted  by  the  hand 
of  man,  I  think  you  will  find  fome  amufe- 
ment  in  the  defcription  of  them. 


On 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  $7 

On  my  firfl  arrival  in  this  country,  I  was 
ilruck  with  the  loftincfs  of  the  pines,  fir- 
trees,  and  cedars,  which  are  of  a  fize  per- 
feftly  ailoniihing.  There  are  two  forts  of 
pine,  both  of  them  yielding  turpentine. 
The  white  pines  produce,  on  their  upper 
<2Xtremities  a  kind  of  muiliroom,  which  the 
Canadians  adminifter  in  cafes  of  the  dyfen- 
tery.  The  red  pines  contain  more  turpen- 
tine, are  heavierj  and  do  not  grow  to 
fuch  a  thicknefs ;  but  where  they  fiourifli, 
the  land  is  reckoned  very  good  to  raife 
porn. 

There  are  feveral  fpecies  of  fir-trees, 
which  rife  to  a  great  height,  are  excellently 
calculated  for  mafts,  as  well  as  every  fort 
of 'carpenter's  work. 

There  are  two  forts  of  cedars  too,  the 

white  and  red,  the  former  of  which  grows 

the  thickeft,  and  the  odour  is  in  its  leaves ; 

whereas,  in  the  latter,  tlic  odour  is  in  the 

G  4  v/ood, 


88  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

wood,  and  far  more  agreeable.  Of  thefe 
trees  the  Canadians  make  palings,  but 
moftly  iliingles  for  covering  their  houfes, 
from  its  extreme  lightnefs. 

All  over  Canada  are  two  forts  of  oak  j 
the  white  grows  in  low  fwampy  grounds, 
the  red  in  dry  fandy  lands. 

There  are  three  forts  of  walnuts;  the 
hard,  the  foft,  and  another  with  a  thin  bark. 
The  hard  fort  bear  a  fmall  nut,  very  good 
to  eat,  but  apt  to  occafion  coftivenefs,  the 
wood  of  which  is  only  fit  to  burn.  The 
tender  bears  a  large  fruit,  with  a  hard  fhell, 
the  kernels  of  which  are  excellent :  the 
v/Dod  of  this  tree  is  fnigularly  curious, 
being  almoft  incorruptible  in  water  or  in 
the  ground,  and  difficult  to  confume 
in  the  fire :  of  this  wood  the  Canadians 
make  their  coffins.  The  third  fort  pro- 
duces a  nut  which  is  exceedingly  bitter, 

but 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  89 

but  yields  an  excellent  oil,  ufed  by  the  in^ 
habitants  for  their  lamps. 

Beech  and  elm  trees  are  in  great  abun- 
dance -y  and  in  the  thickeft  woods  are  found 
vafl  numbers  of  cherry  and  plumb-trees. 

There  are  an  infinite  number  of  others, 
but  as  I  am  no  Botanlfl,  you  will  pardon 
my  giving  an  account  of  what  is  here  in 
fuch  variety,  that  perfons  who  have  taken 
the  moil  unremitting  pains  to  difcover 
them,  have  not  been  capable  of  defcribing 
half  their  number,  I  fliall  conclude  this 
heavy  detail  of  trees,  with  that  of  the 
maple,  which  boails  of  m^any  excellent 
qualities. 

The  maple  tree  yields  in  great  quantities 
a  liquor  which  is  cool  and  refreiliing,  with 
an  agreeable  flavor.  The  Canadians  make 
a  fugar  of  it,  a  very  good  peftoral, 
and  ufed  for  coughs.     There   are  many 

trees 


^O  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

tr€es  that  yield  a  liquor  they  can  convert 
into  fugar,  hut  none  in  fuch  abundance  as 
the  maple.  You  v/ill  no  doubt  be  fur- 
prized  to  find,  in  Canada,  what  Virgil  pre- 
di6led  of  the  Golden  Age,  Et  dura  quercm 
fudabiint  rafcida  mella. 

The  flock  of  the  farming  part  of  the 
inhabitants  in  this  province,  confifts  gene- 
rally of  about  a  fcore  or  two  of  Iheep,  ten 
or  tvi^elve  cows,  and  five  or  fix  oxen  for  the 
plough  5  the  cattle  are  fmall  but  excellent, 
and  the  people,  fmce  they  have  been  under 
the  Englifh  Government,  live  in  a  degree 
of  cafe  and  happinefs  unknown  to  the. 
country  people  in  England,  and  are  now 
improving  their  farms  and  enriching  them-* 
felves  very  faft.  Before  the  commence- 
ment of  the  war,  they  ufed  to  export  vaft 
quantities  of  wheat  and  all  forts  of  grain, 
to  the  other  provinces  and  the  Wefl  India 
idands  -,  but  Vv^hen  under  the  French  Go- 
vernmeni:,  they  were  fo  oppreffed  by  their 

Seigneurs^ 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  91 

Seigneurs,  that  they  never  raifed  more 
grain  than  would  ferve  themfelves  and  the 
l^ock  on  their  farms  j  whenever  they  did, 
it  was  generally  claimed  by  the  Seig-news 
for  the  ufe  of  Government.  The  Cana- 
dians were  at  that  time  a  veiy  indolent  {tt 
of  people:  now  they  reap  the  fweets  of 
their  induftry,  and  are  quite  the  reverfe. 

I  went  yeflerday  to  view  the  Fail  of 
Montmorency,  which  is  really  beautiful. 
The  breadth  of  it  is  not  above  ten  or 
twelve  yards,  and  its  perpendicular  height 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet ;  by  the  vio- 
lent fall  of  fuch  an  immenfe  body  of  wa- 
ter, there  is  ahvays  a  thick  fog  of  vapors, 
which  occafions  a  continual  rain,  for  fome 
diflance  round  the  bottom.  Anxious  to 
examine  it  as  minutely  as  polTible,  I  ap- 
proached within  tvv^clve  yards  of  the  Fall, 
when  a  fudden  gufc  cf  wind  blew  liich  a 
thick  fog  off  the  fpray,  that  in  lefs  than  a 
minute  I  was  as  wet  as  if  I  had  walked  half 

an 


92  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

an  hour  in  a  heavy  fliov\^er,  which,  hov;r 
ever,  did  not  prevent  ray  endeavouring  to 
fatisfy  my  curiofity,  for  I  perfevered,  in 
hopes  of  accomphihing  my  vvifli,  w^hich, 
like  many  of  our  ardent  purfuits,  did  not 
bring  me  that  recompence  I  had  flattered 
myfeif  it  would  -,  for  having  obtained  the 
purport  of  my  intention,  inftead  of  the 
beautiful  appearance  I  had  pi6tured  to  my 
imagination,  to  be  difcerned  between  the 
rock  and  the  immenfe  body  of  water  that 
.  was  falling  from  fuch  a  prodigious  height, 
I  found  myfeif  enveloped  in  a  very  thick 
fog  of  fpray,  fcarcely  able  to  fee  my  hand 
when  extended,  and  where,  in  all  proba- 
bility, if  I  had  continued  five  minutes,  and 
the  wind  changed,  I  was  in  danger  of  being 
drowned.  The  noife  occafiojied  by  the  fall 
was  {o  great,  that  an  officer  who  was  v/ith 
me  was  obliged  tofpealv  as  loud  as  he  could, 
to  make  me  underftand  any  thing  he  faid. 
It  is  fometimes  heard  at  Quebec,  which  is 
two  leagues  diftant  to  the  fouthward,  and 

when 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  93 

when  that  i§  the  cafe,  it  is  the  fign  of  an 
approaching  ftrong  north-eafi:  wind. 

One  thing  remarkable  is,  that  this  plen- 
tiful fall  cf  water,  which  never  dries 
up,  one  v/ould  imagine,  mud  proceed  from 
fome  fine  river  :  but  it  is  quite  the  reverfc, 
it  being  only  a  puny  ftream,  which  in  fome 
places  is  fcarcely  iiitticient  to  cover  the 
ankle ;  it  fiovrs,  however,  conilantly,  and 
derives  its  foiu'ce  from  a  pleafant  lake, 
twelve  leagues  diftant  from  the  falls. 

I  have  vi£ted  the  plains  of  Abraham,  to 
fee  the  remains  of  the  enemy's  encamp- 
ment, and  could  not  help  contrafling  thofc 
who  had  fo  lately  abandoned  that  place, 
witlr  the  poiTeiibrs  of  it  when  the  brave 
Wolfe  fell !  Nor  was  it  poliible  to  fupprefs 
a  figh  to  the  memory  of  that  gallant  ofiicer, 
who,  at  {o  early  a  period  in  life,  had  ac- 
quired the  eileem  and  admiration  of  all 
mankind.  While  in  the  very  arms  of  death, 

he 


04  i  N  I'  E  R  I  O  R     T  R  A  V  E  L  4 

added  glory  and  conqueil  to  the  Britifll 
empire. 

Nor  could  I  help  lamenting,  at  the  fanie 
time,  the  fate  of  an  omcer  of  confiderable 
merit,  though  an  enemy,  the  brave  Mont- 
gomery, who  com^manded  the  troops  that 
had  fo  lately  abandoned  this  encampment, 
and  of  whom  I  have  already  fpoken :  he 
polfefied  all  the  fire  of  military  ardor, 
rullied  with  impatience  in  the  front  of 
every  danger,  and  met  his  death,  "  e'en  at 
the  cannon's  mouth,"  where  he  unfortu- 
nately fell  a  facrifice  to  miftaken  principles, 
unnatural   rebellion,   and   the   ambitious 

views    of    a  few   defigning  men. His 

courage  and  death  would  have  done  honor 
to  a  better  caufe. 

The  people  in  this  city  are  making  pre^ 
perations  for  the  winter,  and  you  would 
think  it  impOiTible  they  could  confume  the 
amazing  rafts  of  timber  that  are  already 

floated 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  9^5; 

floated  down  the  river  j  but  I  am  inform- 
ed they  arc  a  ver}^  inconliderabie  part  of 
what  are  expected.— It  is  not  in  the  ieaft 
furpdzing  they  were  obliged  to  pull  down 
houfes  for  fuel  laft  winter,  darinrc  the 
fie":e. 


-t>' 


Europeans  muft  form  a  terrible  idea  of 
the  intenfe  cold  of  this  country,  from  the 
preparations  the  Canadians  tal^e  to  guard 
agninil  it-  for  the  inhabitants  are  parting 
paper  round  their  windows,  and  every 
crevice  v/here  they  imagine  the  leafl  cold 
will  penetrate. 

Inflead  of  fire-places  they  make  ufe  of 
iron  ftoves,  which  muft  be  extremely  un- 
healthy J  a  fev/  days  fnice  I  went  into  a 
room  when  there  was  a  fire  in  one  of 
them,  and  had  not  been  there  above  five 
minutes,  when  I  v/as  feized  with  a  mod: 
intolerable  hcad-ach,  which  I  can  only 
attribute  to  the  fulphurcous  air  that  pro- 
ceeds 


96  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

ceeds  from  thefe  floves  j  and,  for  my  own 
part,  imagine  they  are  the  occafion  of  the 
Canadians  having  fuch  fallow  complexions ; 
but  cufcom,  which  in  fome  meafare  over- 
comes all  prejudices,  will  no  doubt  recon- 
cile me  to  them. 

The  fliips  are  all  preparing  to  fail  for 
England,  left  the  river  fliould  freeze  up. 

I  have  been  this  afternoon  upon  the 
ramparts,  to  fee  the  Apollo  frigate  drop 
dov/n,  in  which  General  Burgoyne  fails 
for  England ;  who,  I  am  perfuaded,  has 
the  fmcere  and  ardent  wiflies  of  all  ranks 
in  the  army,  for  his  fafety  and  happy  ar- 
rival. The  General  joins  to  the  dignity 
of  office,  and  ftrict  attention  to  military 
difcipline,  that  conlideration,  humanity, 
and  mildnefs  of  manners,  which  muft  ever 
endear  him  to  all  who  have  the  happinefs 
to  be  under  his  command  i  for  my  own 
part,  I  fliall  pray  v/ith  Shakefpear,  "  that 

the 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  97 

the  winds  of  all  the  corners  may  kifs  the 
fails,  and  make  his  veliel  profperous." 

I  remained  on  the  ramparts  to  take  the 
laft  look  of  the  Apollo,  who,  with  a  fteady 
and  favourable  breeze,  failed  magnificently 
down  the  river,  and  was  foon  out  of  fight. 
You  cannot  guefs  how  it  affefted  me ;  fhall 
I  confefs  that  more  than  once  I  wifhed 
myfelf  on  board  her :  it  was  fuch  a  fight 
as  mufl:  awaken  the  mind  to  all  its  na- 
tural attachments.  But  that  I  may  not 
think  too  much  of  country  and  friends,  at 
this  time,  I  fhall  haftily  conclude  myfelf, 

Yours,  &c. 


Vol.  I.  H  LET- 


98'  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER         X. 


Montreal 3  No'v ember  \.6th,  i'j'j&, 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

A  F  T  E  R  a  tedious  inarch  of  near  three 
"^  ^  weeks,  which  for  a  young  foldier  is 
a  pretty  good  initiation  into  the  toils  of 
his  profellion,  I  am  fafe  arrived  at  this 
place. 

As  we  could  not  march  many  miles  in 
a  day,  through  the  feverity  of  the  weather, 
bad  roads,  and  the  fhortnefs  of  the  days, 
I  am.  enabled  to  give  you  fome  little  de- 
fcription  of  the  country  between  this  city 
and  Quebec. 

Both 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  99 

Both  fides  of  the  river  are  veiy  well 
fettled,  which  affords  a  pleafmg  profpect. 
The  farms  moftly  lie  clofe  to  the  water- 
fide,  and  at  fome  diftance  from  each  other, 
fo  that  each  farm.er  has  his  pofTefTions  en- 
tirely dlftincl  from  thofe  of  his  neigh- 
bour's. But  had  an  edi61:,  which  was 
paffed  in  the  year  1745,  when  this  pro- 
vince was  under  the  French  Government, 
been  obferved,  it  would  have  been  one  con- 
tinued ftreet  from  Quebec  to  this  place,  as 
it  forbade  the  Canadians  from  extending 
their  plantations  more  than  an  acre  and  a 
half  in  front,  and  thirty  or  forty  acres  in 
depth ;  by  which  means  indolent  heirs 
w^ould  not  have  waited  for  the  inheritance 
of  their  fathers,  as  they  would  have  been 
under  the  neceffity  of  forming  new  plan- 
tations, and  fach  vail  fpaces  of  wood 
w;ould  no  longer  have  feparated  them 
from  each  other. 

H  2  But 


lOO  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

But  whether  that  indolence  they  then 
pofleired  proceeded  from  nature,  or  the 
rigor  of  their  Government,  they  feem  now 
to  have  entirely  lofb  it,  and  are  become 
more  induflrious ;  as  I  perceived,  in  many 
places,  they  were  clearing  away  the  woods 
to  form  new  plantations. 

Mofl:  of  the  farm  houfes  are  built  of 
Hone,  confiding  of  three  or  four  rooms, 
wliich  are  heated  with  a  fl:ove,  nearly 
upon  the  fame  conftru6lion  as  thofe  I 
defcribed  to  you.  Some  of  them  have 
orchards  annexed,  tliough  in  general  they 
are  without  fuch  an  accommodation,  but 
all  have  exceeding  good  kitchen  gar- 
dens. 

Every  three  leagues  there  is  a  church, 
with  a  kind  of  little  village,  confifting  of 
the  parfonage,  the  aiiberge^  the  fchool  for 
boys  and  girls,  and  a  few  houfes  belong- 
ing to  tradefmen,  thofe  but  few  indeed, 

and 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  lOI 

and  fo  thinly  fcattered,  that  it  fcarcely 
gives  you  the  idea  of  a  village.  Trade  is 
confidered  by  any  defeendant  of  the  noblejfe 
a  difgrace,  yet  there  are  few  inhabitants 
but  what  claim  fome  affinity  to  one  Seig- 
neur or  another,  who,  though  they  think 
it  no  derogation  to  plough,  fow,  and  reap 
upon  their  plantations,  deem  it  ignomi- 
nious in  the  extreme,  to  be  a  mechanic 
or  tradefman.  Notwithftanding  which,  I 
was  much  furprized  to  find,  that  the 
principal  inhabitant  in  each  village,  who 
generally  belongs  to  fome  noblejfe^  was  the 
poft-mafter,  and  kept  the  only  Auherge  in 
the  place  j  nay,  did  not  think  his  nobility 
offended,  with  providing  horfes  and  enter- 
taining travellers,  which  I  remember  to 
have  heard  you  fay  is  the  cafe  in  many 
parts  of  Italy. 

Between  each  church,  or  village,  there 

are  feveral  crolTes  put  up  on  the  road-fide, 

parallel  to  the  fnores  of  the  river,   and 

H  3  which 


102  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

which  are  common  throughout  Canada. 
They  are  made  of  wood,  about  fifteen 
or  twenty  feet  high,  and  proportionably 
broad :  In  that  fide  towards  the  road  is  a 
fquare  hole,  in  which  they  place  fome 
wax  images,  either  of  our  Saviour  on  the 
crofs,  or  of  the  holy  Virgin,  with  the 
child  iii  her  arms,  and  before  that,  a  piece 
of  glafs  to  prevent  its  being  injured  by 
the  weather.  Thefe  crofTes  are  ornament- 
ed with  all  the  inftruments  they  think 
the  Jews  employed  in  crucifying  our 
Saviour,  fuch  as  the  hammer,  tongs,  nails, 
a  fiaik  of  vinegar,  \vith  many  more  things 
than  one.  would  fappofe  were  really  made 
ufe  of,  or  even  invented ;  and  frequently 
the  figure  of  a  cock  is  placed  at  the  top, 
which  appeared  to  me  rather  fmgular,  as 
it  could  have  not  the  leaft  affinity  to  the 
crucifixion,  and  mufl  rather  be  fuppofed 
an  allufion  to  the  cock's  crowing  when 
St.  Peter  denied  our  Saviour. 

Thefe 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  IO3 

Thefe  crofles,  however  good  the  inten- 
tion of  creeling  them  may  be,  are  con- 
tinually the  caufes  of  great  delays  in  tra- 
velling, which  to  perfons  not  quite  fo 
fuperftitioufly  difpofed  as  the  Canadians, 
are  exceedingly  unpleafant  in  cold  weather ; 
for  whenever  the  drivers  of  the  calafhes, 
which  are  open,  and  nearly  fimilar  to 
your  one  horfe  chaifes,  come  to  one  of 
them,  they  alight,  either  from  their  horfes 
or  carriage,  fall  on  their  knees,  and  re- 
peat a  long  prayer,  let  the  weather  be 
ever  fo  fever e. 

The  ufual  mode  of  travelling  is  in  thefe 
calafhes  :  in  the  front  of  thofe  which  tra- 
vel poft,  a  man  fits  to  drive,  and  who,  let 
your  bufmefs  be  of  ever  fo  great  import- 
ance, will  alight  at  thefe  croiTes,  and  pay 
his  accuflomed  homage. 

One  day,  on  our  march,  being  fent  for- 
ward to  procure  quarters,  with  our  friend 
.  H  4  Cap- 


104  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

Captain  Grattan,  whofe  pleafantry  of  man- 
ners you  are  well  acquainted  with  j  for  ex- 
pedition we  went  in  a  pofT-calafh.  The 
weather  was  fo  exceffively  fevere,  that  with 
the  afliftance  of  fur  coverinsis,  we  could 
fcarcely  keep  ourfelves  warm,  Not  aboye 
a  mile  had  been  beguiled,  before  we  came 
to  one  of  thefe  crofl'es,.  when  the  fellov/ 
who  drove  us  flopped ;  upon  aiking  him 
why  he  did  fo,  he  replied,  Ce  neji  que  pour 
falre  une  petite  priere  ;  which  petite  priere 
he  v^^as  nearly  five  minutes  in  repeating, 
when  he  mounted  his  feat.  We  complained 
of  being  aimoft  perillicd  with  cold,  when 
he  replied,  AlIo?is,  allons^  je  vais  me  dep'eeher^ 
and  after  taking  two  or  three  vvhiris  of  his 
pipe,  V\  hipped  up  his  horfes,  and  made 
amends  for  his  flopping.  We  had  not 
gone  a  mile  and  a  half  further,  before 
another  crofs  made  its  unwelcome  appear- 
ance :  here  he  mufl:  alight,  '^rAfaire  une 
autre  petite  priere^  which,  upon  our  not 
confenting  to,  he  begged  we  would  let  him 

juil 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  lOJ 

juft  ftop,  le  terns  de  faire  iinfgne  de  crcix, 
which  he  was  not  long  about.  We  then 
jogged  on  agam  with  great  chearfuhiefs,  as 
he  drove  pretty  faft  j  foon  after  we  per- 
ceived the  village  to  which  we  were  deilined 
for  quarters,  when  again  he  fuddenly  ftopt, 
and  upon  our  faying  there  was  no  crofs 
there,  he  immediately  cried  but,  Mais  en 
*voici  une  la,  which,  being  at  fome  diilance 
from  the  road,  we  had  not  obferved,  re- 
quefting  us  to  let  him  halt  but  a  moment : 
Ilfaut  que  je  dcfcende  ici;  cejl  nion  village -, 
we  told  him  he  fnould  not,  and  that  he 
mull:  drive  into  the  villas:e  as  fall:  as  he 
could.  Upon  this  he  growled  inwardly, 
and  complained  openly,  till  he  came  op- 
pofite  to  it,  where  he  flopped  again; 
before  he  could,  defcend,  our  friend  Grat- 
tan  laid  hold  of  his  long  queue,  of  which 
I  told  you  they  are  exceedingly  proud,  and 
declared,  if  he  did  not  immediately  drive 

on,    he    would  infrantly   cut  it   off. 

This  being  aiierted  with  fome  degree  of 

warmth, 


I06  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

warmth,  he  thought  fit  to  facrifice  his  reli- 
gion to  his  vanity,  fo  juil  croffing  himfelf, 
muttered  a  fhort  prayer,  and  drove  us  as  fafl: 
as  he  could  to  the  end  of  our  journey, 
facrant  contre  the  Engliih  officers  5  and  I  do 
not  doubt,  if  one  could  form  any  idea  from 
his  countenance,  but  he  fent  us  both  into 
purgatory  with  fach  curfes,  that  all  the 
malTes  which  could  be  offered  would  not  be 
able  to  releafe  us  from  it,  for  having  treated 
his  religion  and  his  queue  with  fo  little 
ceremony. 

Leaving  you  to  make  your  own  reflec- 
tions on  thefe  Canadians  and  their  religion, 
I  remain. 

Yours,  6cc» 


LET^ 


THROUCH    AMERICA.  I07 


X.    E    T    T   E    R        XL 


Montreal^  No-v.  20//^,  1776- 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

IS  H  A  L  L  now  proceed  with  my  obfer- 
vations,  and  the  remahider  of  the  oc- 
currences which  happened  in  our  march 
from  Quebec  to  this  place. 

About  half  way  between  Quebec  and 
Montreal,  is  a  town  called  l^rois  Rivieres  ; 
it  takes  its  name  from  three  rivers,  whofe 
currents  join  here,  and  fall  into  the  river 
St.  Laurence.  Previous  to  my  giving  you 
any  defcription  of  this  place,  permit  me  to 
relate  a  trifling  circumftance  that  occurred, 

juft 


'l68  INTERIOR    TRAVEIS 

jiill  as  we  entered  the  town.  About  half 
a  mile  before  Vv^e  came  to  it,  fo  fadden 
and  naufeous  a  fcent  aifailed  our  olfa61:ory 
nerves,  as  nearly  to  fufFocate  us,  v/hich 
lafled  till  we  arrived  at  the  oiitrKirts. — 
Upon  enquiry,  vs^e  found  it  arofe  from 
an  animal,  which  the  Canadians  call  the 
Etfanf  du  Diahle,  or -bete  pliant e ,  a  title 
which  it  derives  from  its  ill  fcent,  occa- 
fioned  by  difcharging  his  urine;  whenever 
he  is  attacked,  and  which  infecls  the 
-air  for  a  great  diftance.  Laying  afide  this 
quality,  it  is  in  other  refpeds  a  beautiful 
creature,  being  abo'tit  the  fize  of  a  cat, 
with  a  fine  fiiining  fur,  of  a  dark  grey 
color,  ftreaks  of  white  gliilening  from  the 
head  to. the  tail,  wliich  is  bufhy,  like  that 
of  a  fox,  and  turned, up  as  a  fquirrel's.: 
this  had  been  purfacd  by  fome  dogs  which 
the  foldiers  had  with  them,  acrofs  the  road, 
but  when  it  came  near  us,  its  ftench  was 
almoft  infupportable. 

Thefe 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  I09 

Thefe  Enfant  du  Diabk  differ  from  your 
Enfant  du  Diabk,  the  London  beaux,  who 
have  all  their  prettyifms  perhaps,  but  are 
eternally  exhaUng  their  peilifcrous  odours, 
fearful,  if  they  referved  them  till  piirfued^ 
they  would  have  no  opportunity  to 

"  Taint  the  flying  air,  and  ftink  in  ftate.'* 

The  country  is  pleafant,  and  there  are 
feveral  good  houfes  about  the  town,  but 
they  were  greatly  damaged  by  the  Ameri- 
cans, upon  abandoning  it,  after  their  de- 
feat this  fummer,  when  their  army  was 
routed,  and  feveral  of  their  Generals,  with 
great  numbers  of  their  men,  taken  pri- 
foners.  This  place  is  the  winter  canton- 
ments of  the  German  troops,  who  are 
commanded  by  General  Reidefel ;  he  com- 
mands likewife  the  diftrift  between  Que- 
bec and  Montreal. 

This  town,  by  reafon  of  the  three  rivers, 
ufed  to  be  much  frequented  by  the  feveral 

nations 


no  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

nations  of  Indians,  and  was  built  with  a 
view  of  encouraging  trade  with  the  northern 
ones  in  particular.  It  had  every  profpe6t  of 
heing  the  fecond  city  in  the  province,  but 
the  fur  trade  was  foon  diverted  from  this 
market,  and  carried  entirely  to  Montreal, 
it  being  fome  leagues  nearer  to  the  In- 
dians J  and  though  we  have  feveral  trad- 
ing places  with  them  upon  the  lakes  On- 
tario and  Superior,  Montreal  will  always 
fupport  its  confequence,  as  being  the 
nearefl  and  mofc  convenient  place  for 
fhipping  the  furs  to  England.  ^rois 
Rivieres  has  now  loft  all  its  traffic  and  is 
fapported  chiefly  by  the  travellers  pafling 
between  the  two  cities. 

There  are  feveral  churches,  and  two 
convents,  the  nuns  of  which  are  reckoned 
the  moft  ingenious  of  any  in  Canada,  in 
all  kinds  of  fancy  ornaments,  needle  work, 
and  curious  toys. 

During 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  Ill 

During  my  ftay  at  Trots  Rivie?rs,  there 
came'  down  from  the  IUi?ioisj  feveral  In- 
dians of  that  nation,  with  an  interpreter, 
to  acquaint  us,  that  they  would  be  down 
in  the  fpring,  and  would  take  up  the 
hatchet  in  favor  of  "  thei?'  good  Brother  who 
rrfided  beyond  the  great  waters."  Among 
the  groupe  I  obferved  one,  who  had  hang- 
ing round  his  neck  the  image  of  the  holy 
Virgin,  with  our  Saviour  in  her  arms, 
which  I  thought  very  fmgular,  as  he  was 
of  a  nation  efteemed  extremely  ferocious 
in  their  manner,  and  whom  the  French 
Miffionaries  could  not  convert  j  but  upon 
my  enquiring  of  the  interpreter  if  he  knew 
the  reafon,  he  gave  me  the  following 
account : 

In  fome  ikimirfh,  when  the  Illinois  were 
at  war  with  the  Canadians,  this  image 
had  fallen  into  their  hands,  amongft  other 
plunder.  Sometime  aftei'wards  as  a  Mif- 
fionary,    of  which  the  French  had  great 

numbers 


irZ  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

numbers  travelling  through  the  interior 
parts  of  Canada,  to  cultivate  friendihip, 
and  eilabliih  their  religion  among  the  In- 
dians J  by  chance  he  met  this  perfon,  and 
obferving  the  image,  was  very  much 
ailoniilied;  the  manner  in  which  he  took 
notice  of  it,  excited  the  curiofity  of  the 
poor  favage,  to  know  what  it  reprefented, 
when  the  Millionaiy,  who  no  doubt  was 
pleafed  to  have  fuch  an  opportunity  of  dif- 
playing  his  religion,  told  him,  that  it  re- 
prefented the  mother  of  his  God,  and  that 
tl:ie  child  fhe  held  in  her  arms  reprefented 
God  himfelf,  who  had  made  himfelf  man 
for  the  falvation  of  the  human  fpecies,  and 
explaining  to  him  the  myftery  of  our  in- 
carnation, affuring  him,  that  in  all  dan- 
gers the  Chriftians  addreffed  themfelves  to 
this  holy  mother,  who  feldom  failed  to 
extricate  them.  The  Indian  liflened  with 
the  utmofl  attention  to  this  difcourfe,  and 
v/ent  away. 

Some- 


i-HROUGH    AMERICA"  IIT; 

Being  cut  a  hunting,  foon  after  this, 
juft  as  he  had  difcharged  his  piece  at  a 
deer,  one  of  the  Ottiagami  Indians,  whofe 
nation  was  at  variance  with  the  lUi^ioisy 
and  who  was  lying  in  ambufh,  prefented 
his  piece  at  his  head.  In  this  fituation 
he  recollefted  what  had  been  told  him 
about  the  mother  of  God,  and  invoked  her 
protection.  The  Ontagami  endeavoured  to 
difcharge  his  piece,  but  miffed ;  he  cocked 
a  fecond  time,  and  the  fame  thing  hap- 
pened five  times  fuccellively.  In  tlie  inte- 
rim the  lllijiois  had  loaded  his  piece,  and 
prefented  it  to  the  Outagamie  who  chofe 
rather  to  furrdrider  than  be  {hot.  From 
that  time  the  Illinois  would  never  ftir  froni 
his  village  without  his  fafeguard,  which 
he  imao;ines  renders  him  invulnerable. 
There  can  remain  little  doubt  but  this 
circumftarice  was  the  means  oi  his  eonver- 
fion  to  GhrifVianity,  and  the  Romifli  re- 
ligion :  for  he  has  certainly  embraced 
that  perfuafion,  as  I  foUov/ed  him  to  the 

Vol.  L  I  great 


J  14  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

great  church,  where,  upon  his  entrance, 
after  croffing  himfelf  with  the  holy  water, 
he  fell  upon  his  knees,  and  feemed  to  wor- 
fhip  with  as  much  devotion  as  the  mofl 
devout  of  the  Canadians.  But  to  return 
to  my  defcription  of  this  place.  ^ 

The  road  from  Quebec  hither  is  the 
whole  way  within  fight  of  the  river,  being 
moilly  upon  its  banks,  which  renders  it 
extremely  pleafant  to  travellers,  efpecially 
in  the  fummer,  as  there  is  a  conllant 
breeze.  ^ 

The  river  from  Quebec  to  T-rois  Rwutcs 
is  very  wide,  and  at  that  place  it  forms  a 
very  large  lake,  called  Sf.  Pierre,  where 
the  eye  cannot  reach  acrofs ;  you  can  only 
difcern  a  large  body  of  water,  with  feveral 
iHands,  which,  with  the  fmall  vefiels  fail- 
ing between  them,  form  a  very  romantic 
profpeft.  The  tide  comes  no  farther 
than  this  lake,  terminating  a  few  leagues 

beyond 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  TI^ 

beyond  Trots  Rivieres,  when  you  meet  with 
the  river  again,  where  it  runs  extremely 
rapid,  at  the  rate  of  feven  or  eight  miles 
an  hour.  At  its  firll  appearance  you  can 
hardly  fuppofe  it  the  fame  river,  for  where 
the  tide  has  effeft,  it  feldom  runs  more 
than  four  miles  an  hour ;  it  increafes  in 
rapidity  as  you  advance  to  Montreal,  and 
oppofite  the  city  it  runs  almoil  ten  miles 
an  hour,  which  renders  its  navigation  ex^ 
tremely  difficult,  as  nothing  but  a  very 
ilrong  and  favourable  wind,  with  all  the 
fails  full  fet,  can  enable  vefTels  to  iliem 
the  current.  What  with  unfavourable 
winds  and  light  breezes,  fliips  have  been  as 
long  in  getting  up  from  'T7'ois  Rivieres  to 
Montreal,  as  they  were  on  their  paflage 
from  England  to  Quebec. 

The  rapidity  of  the  current  makes  crof- 
fmg  not  only  difagreeable,  but  very  dan- 
gerous, for  unlefs  you  have  a  fkilful  pilot, 
the  current  will  carry  you  a  league  below 
I  2  where 


Il6  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

\Vhere  you  want  to  land.  And  yet  it  is 
furprizing,  how  expert  the  Canadians  are 
with  their  wooden  eanoes ;  but  the  Indians 
far  exceed  them  in  working  theirs,  as  their 
canoes  are  of  a  much  hghter  conftru6lion. 
Both  being  much  ufed  in  this  country, 
I  fhall  endeavour  to  defcribe  them,  that 
you  may  be  able  to  form  fome  idea  of  what 
they  are. 

Thofe  which  the  Canadians  ufe,  are 
called  wooden  ones,  being  hollowed  out  of 
the  red  elm,  fome  of  which  are  fo  large,  as 
to  contain  twenty  perfons. 

Thofe  which  the  Indians  ufe,  are  made 
of  the  bark  of  the  birch  tree,  and  diftin- 
guifhed  by  the  name  of  birch  canoes,  the 
different  parts  of  which  they  few  together 
with  the  inner  rind  of  the  bark  of  the  tree, 
and  daub  them  over  with  a  pitch,  or  rather 
a  bituminous  matter,  refembling  pitch,  to 
prevent  their  leaking.     They  form  the  ribs 

from 


THROUGH    AMERICA^  11/ 

from  the  boughs  of  the  hickory  tree,  and 
are  conftrucled  of  different  dimenfions, 
fome  being  only  lai'ge  enough  to  contain 
two  perfons,  and  others  thirty. 

Thefe  canoes  are  eafily  managed  by  the 
Indians  with  their  paddles,  and  with  the 
current  go  at  a  prodigious  rate,  for  one 
fmgle  flroke  with  the  paddle  will  force 
them  twice  the  length  of  the  canoe  againft 
it.  It  was  with  one  of  thefe  birch  canoes 
that  General  Carleton,  with  an  Aid-de- 
Camp,  made  their  efcape  through  the  ene- 
my's fleet,  when  he  quitted  Montreal,  foi 
the  purpofe  of  putting  Quebec  in  a  better 
itate  of  defence. 

Unwilling  to  lofe  the  opportunity  of 
lending  this  by  an  officer  who  is  going  to 
Quebec,  I  am  obliged  to  put  a  period  to  this 
letter :  and,  no  doubt,  upon  the  perufal  of 
It,  you  will  eafily  difcover  the  young  tra- 
1 3  veller. 


Il8  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

veiler,  who  is  diverted  with  every  thing 
that  prefents  itfelf  to  his  view.  But  in 
hopes  that  it  may  afford  you  half  an  hour's 
amufement,  I  remain,         . 

Yours,  &c. 


L  E  T~ 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  ll^ 


J.   E    T    T    E    R        XIL 


Mofilreal,  November  zSihf  1776. 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

EFORE  I  defcribe  to  you  this  city, 
let  me  give  you  fome  account  of  the 
ifland  on  which  it  Hands,  and  fi'om  whence 
it  derives  its  name. 

This  ifland,  which  meafurcs,  ten  leagues 
in  length  and  about  four  in  breadth,  is 
formed  by  the  river  St.  Laurence,  and  in 
the  center  of  it  are  two  lai'ge  mountains, 
which  are  the  firft  you  meet  vvdth  on  the 
north  fide  of  St.  Laurence,  and  were  called 
by  the  firfl  difcoverers  of  this  province, 
I  4  Morifs 


JZQ  INTERIOI^     TRAVELS 

Monfs  Royatix,  which  gave  name  to  the 
ifland,  afterwards  Mont  Royal,  and  at  laft, 
by  a  variety  of  corruptions  of  the  language, 
Montreal, 

Of  all  the  adjacent  countries,  there  is 
no  place  where  the  climate  is  reckoned  to 
be  fo  mild,  fo  pleafant,  and  the  foil  fo 
fruitful:  with  all  thefe  natural  bleffingSj 
is  it  not  furprizing  to  fee  it  thinly  inha- 
bited, and  very  ill  fettled,  for  except  two 
or  three  miles  round  the  city,  the  country 
is  moflly  woods,  interfperfed  with  a  few 
fmall  plantations. 

One  thing  not  a  little  remarkable  is, 
that  this  ifland  contains  a  fmaller  one 
of  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  two 
and  ^  half  in  breadtli,  formed  by  tvv^o 
inlets  of  S|:.  Laurence.  This  little  ifland, 
which  is  called  the  IJle  de  Jefus,  is  almoil 
cleared  from  woods,  and  has  a  fmall  church 
and  a  few  hqufes  on  it,  rendering  Mon^ 

treal 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  J2I 

fireal  extremely  plealant ;  being  i'o  fituated, 
that  you  cannot  go  a  great  length  in  any 
dire6lion,  before  you  come  to  it;  and 
furely,  after  traveUing  through  woods  and 
fwamps,  it  affords  a  moft  pleafmg  relief. 

The  fummlt  of  the  mountains  1  have 
defcribed  to  you  are  extremely  difficult  to 
gain ;  but  having  once  accompliflied  it,, 
the  delightful  profped  that  prefents  itfelf, 
amply  compenfates  for  the  fatigue  and 
dangers  you  encounter,  being  able  to  viev/ 
the  whole  ifland,  and  feveral  leagues  round 
it.  You  can  plainly  difcern  the  moun- 
tains that  crofs  Lake  Champlain,  called  the 
Green  Mountains,  which  are  near  60  miles 
diflant.  It  appears  generally  a  vaft  foreft, 
there  being  only  three  objefts  to  diverfify 
the  fcene :  the  view  of  the  city  of  Mon- 
treal, the  river  St.  Laurence,  and  the 
mountains  of  Chamblee,  which  are  exceed- 
ingly beautiful,  and  the  more  remark- 
able", being  in  a  plain  level  country,  and 

not 


122  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

not  having  a  fmgle  hill  for  feveral  leagues 
round  them ;  they  are  confiderably  loftier 
than  the  mountains  on  this  ifland. 

This  city  forms  an  oblong  fquare,  di-r 
vided  by  regular,  w^ell  formed  ftreets,  and 
the  houfes  in  general  are  well  built;  there 
are  feveral  churches,  but  thofe,  as  well  as 
many  of  the  houfes  have  felt  the  effe6ls 
of  this  war. 

The  city  is  fur  rounded  by  a  wail  and 
dry  ditch,  and  at  one  end  there  is  a  citadel. 
Thefe  fortifications  wxre  raifed  many  years 
paft,  as  a  defence  againft  the  Indians,  and 
fince  the  war,  great  improvements  have 
been  made  to  them  \  but  the  city  is  fo 
fituated,  that  no  works  can  be  raifed  to 
enabled  it  to  ftand  a  regular  fiege,  having 
many  rifmg  grounds,  that  comn^and  it  in 
more  places  than  one. 

When 


7HR0UGH    AMERICA.  1 23 

When  we  gained  polTeflion  of  this  pro- 
vince, Montreal  was  nearly  as  large  as  Que- 
bec, but  fince  that  time  it  has  fuffered  much 
by  fire ;  it  is  greatly  to  be  wondered  at,  that 
it  has  not,  one  time  or  other,  been  totally 
deftroyed :  for  in  the  winter,  when  the 
inhabitants  go  to  bed,  they  make  great 
fires  in  their  iloves,  and  leave  them  burn- 
ing all  night,  by  which  means  they  are 
frequently  red  hot  before  morning.  Ima- 
gine how  very  dangerous  they  mufl  have 
been,  when  their  houfes  were  conflru6i:ed  of 
woodi  few  of  thofe  are  now  remaining, 
except  in  the  outikirts  of  the  city,  the 
greatefl  part  of  them  being  built  of 
ftone. 

The  inhabitants  here,  as  well  as  thofe  of 
Quebec,  having  fo  many  times  faiFered 
by  fire,  conflrucl  their  buildings  in  fuch 
a  manner,  that  they  are  not  only  perfe61iy 
fecure  againft  that  element,  but  even 
againfl  houfe-breakers,  which  being  a  little 

lin<rular. 


124  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

fingukr,   you  will  have  no  obje6lion  to 
my  defcribing  them. 

The  houfe  eonfifts  of  one  lofty  floor, 
built  with  flone,  and  the  apartments  are 
divided  by  fuch  thick  walls,  that  ihould  a 
fire  happen  in  one  of  them,  it  cannot  com- 
municate to  any  other :  the  top  of  the 
houfe  being  covered  with  a  ftrong  arch,  if 
the  roof  which  is  over  it  fnould  catch  fire, 
it  cannot  damage  the  interior  part  of  the 
Iioufe.  At  Quebec,  that  city  having  been 
fo  often  befieged,  the  inhabitants  v/ho  are 
now  building  at  that  place,  make  this  arcl\ 
bomb-proof. 

Each  apartment  has  a  double  door,  the 
inner  one  of  wood,  and  the  outer  one  of 
iron,  which  is  only  fliut  when  the  family 
retire  to  reft  ^  the  windows  have  double 
ihutters  of  the  fame  materials,  and  have 
not  only  taken  this  precaution  with  the 
doors  that  lead  out  of  the   houfe,    but 

added 


THROUGH    AMERICA.'  1 25 

added  an  iron  one,  which  is  fixed  on  the 
infide.  * 

Thefe  doors  and  fhutters  are  made  of 
plate  iron,  near  half  an  inch  thick,  which, 
perhaps,  you  will  imagine,  mufl:  give  the 
houfe  a  very  difagreeable  appearance,  but 
it  is  far  otherwife,  for  being  moftly  painted 
green,  they  afford  a  pleafmg  contrail  to 
the  whitenefs  of  the  houfe. 

This  is  the  bufy  time  of  the  merchants 
belonging  to  this  place,  who  are  now  ufuig 
all  pollible  expedition  in  fending  home 
their  furs,  before  the  winter  fets  in.  The 
reafon  afhgned  for  deferring  it  till  fo  late 
in  the  feafon,  is  on  account  of  the  traders, 
fome  of  whom  are  but  jufl  arrived  from 
the  upper  countries,  the  merchants  gene- 
rally waiting  as  long  as  there  is  a  pofTibility 
of  their  return,  and  fometimes  fo  long  in 
expectation  of  them,  as  to  lofe  their  mar- 
kets entirely. 

Thefe 


126  .INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

Thefe  traders,  in  the  courfe  of  their 
voyages,  are  cAitinually  encountering 
hardlhips  and  difficulties,  and  their  lives 

are  frequently  in  imminent  danger :- 

nothing  can  counterbalance  the  great  perils 
that  av^ait  them,  but  the  certainty  of  ac- 
quiring an  ample  fortune  in  the  courfe  of 
three  or  four  voyages. 

They  fet  out  in  the  iprlng  of  the  year, 
in  parties  of  about  tv^enty  or  thirty  per- 
fons,  with  perhaps  eight  or  ten  large  birch 
canoes  j  they  have  no  fixed  courfe  to  take, 
but  fteer  that  where  it  is  imagined  they  can 
meet  with  a  tribe  of  Indians  j  keeping 
moftly  upon  the  upper  lakes,  fometimes 
carrying  their  goods  and  canoes  acrofs 
rapids,  which  are  parts  of  the  river  greatly 
quickened  by  the  defcents,  and  over  land 
to  a  river,  up  which  they  will  proceed 
many  leagues.  If  they  do  not  meet  with 
any  Indians,  it  obliges  them  to  return 
again  to  the  lake,  and  proceed  weftward. 

The 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  12^ 

The  goods  they  take  with  them  to  bar- 
ter for  ikins,  confiil  chiefly  of  brandy,  to- 
bacco, a  fort  of  dufhl  blanket,  gun§,  pow^ 
der  and  balls,  kettles,  hatchets  and  toma- 
hawks, as  likewife  looking-glaffes,  ver* 
million  and  various  other  paints  j  and 
according  to  any  article  that  an  Indian  has 
a  defire  or  an  ufe  for,  he  will  give  ten  times 
its  value  in  fKins.  They  are  mofl  eager 
after  powder,  bail,  paint,  brandy  and  to- 
bacco. 

Thefe  traders  traverfe  vafl:  lakes  and 
rivers  with  incredible  induflry  and  pa- 
tience, carrying  their  goods  among  na- 
tions in  the  remoteft  parts  of  America. 
They  are  generally  abfent  from  their  fa- 
milies about  tln^ee  years,  before  their  de- 
parture make  a  will,  and  fettle  all  their 
affairs,  many  of  them,  with  their  whole 
paity,  having  been  put  to  death  by  the 
Indians,  either  for  the  flores  they  carry 
Vx'ith  them^  or  to  revcn,2:e  the  death  of  fome 

of 


taS  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

of  their  nation,  who  has  been  killed  by 
the  burfting  of  a  gun  that  has  been  fold 
to  them,  which  is  frequently  the  cafe,  they 
being  by  no  means  proof.  The  Indians 
do  not  wait  for  thofe  traders  who  fold  the 
gun,  but  take  their  revenge  upon  the  firft 
they  meet  with.  Here  I  muft  obferve  to 
you,  that  the  guns  which  are  fold  to  the 
Indians  are  fitted  up  in  a  very  neat  man^ 
ner,  to  attract  the  notice  of  thefe  poof 
creatures,  and  frequently,  after  having  been 
fired  five  or  fix  times,  they  burfl,  and  the 
unfortunate  purchafer  is  either  killed,  or 
lofes  an  hand  or  an  arm.  Thefe  traders 
are  certainly  the  beil  judges,  but  I  cannot 
help  thinking  it  both  cruel  and  impolitic. 

It  having  been  hinted,  that  a  reward 
would  be  given  to  him  who  fhould  difcover 
a  north-weft  pafl^ge,  or  whether  the  Con- 
tinent joins  to  India,  two  fuppofitions 
much  credited  by  the  Europeans  in  general  j 
feveral  of  tlie  traders  have  endeavoured  to 

find 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  I29 

find  which  is  the  true  one :  as  there  is  every 
year  fome  frefli  difcovery  made,  there  re- 
mains but  little  doubt  that  in  fome  future 
time  it  will  be  efFefted.  I  believe  the  far- 
theft  that  any  of  them  have  yet  reached 
was  a  Mr.  Henry,  who  is  reported  to  have 
travelled  for  ten  days  upon  a  large  plain, 
on  which  grew  only  a  rank-grafs,  nearly  as 
high  as  a  man's  breail,  and  on  this  plain  he 
frequently  met  with  immenfe  droves  of 
buffaloes,  and  obferved  the  tracks  of  feveral 
others  j  that  on  the  eleventh  day  he  came 
to  a  vaft  river,  which  flopped  his  progrefs, 
as  he  did  not  chufe  to  venture  croffing  in  a 
canoe  -,  that  the  water  was  quite  fait,  and 
run  extremely  rapid,  from  which  circum- 
ftance  he  concluded  there  muft  be  a  north- 
weft  paflage. 

Whether  it  is  fo  or  not,  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  when  this  unhappy  contefl  is  ended. 
Government  may  think  it  a  matter  worthy 
their  confideration,  and  fit  out  an  expedi- 

VoL.  L  K  tion 


130  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

tion  for  afcertaining  it,  as  the  difcovery 
would  not  only  be  of  great  importance  to 
England,  but  to  all  the  world.  As  we 
have  already  made  fuch  great  and  wonder- 
ful difcoveries  in  the  South  Seas,  furely 
this  will  be  deemed  of  fufficient  import- 
ance to  juilify  the  expence  of  fitting  out 
proper  perfons  from  England  to  invefligate 
the  faa. 

If  after  fo  many  fruitlefs  attempts,  fome 
one  lliQuld  appear,  whole  firm  mind  will 
rife  fuperior  to  every  fenfe  of  danger,  en- 
countering variety  of  hardfnips,  and  whofe 
patience  is  not  exhaufled  by  their  duration  j 
if  fuch  a  one,  animated  with  a  hope  of 
glory,  which  alone  teaches  men  to  difre- 
gard  life,  rendering  them  equal  to  the 
greatefl  undertakings;  v/ho,  being  well 
informed,  fo  as  to  underftand  what  he  fees, 
and  of  veracity  enough  to  relate  only  what 
he  has  feen — if  fuch  a  man  fliould  appear, 
and  no  doubt  there  are  many  who  pofiefs 

thefe 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  T31 

thefe  excellent  and  extraordinary  qualiiica- 
tions,  his  refearches  will  perhaps  be  crown- 
ed with  better  fuccefs.  But,  if  after  fucli 
an  undertaking,  this  celebrated  pafTage 
fhould  ftill  remain  concealed,  it  mall:  be 
concluded,  either  that  it  doth  not  exift,  or 
is  not  given  to  man  to  difcover, 

I  add  nothing  more  to  this  letter,  fearful 
of  lofmg  its  conveyance,  therefore  remain 

Yours,  Sec. 


K  2  LET- 


132  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


L    E    T    T    B    R         XIIL 


Montreal,  No-v.  }0//j,   1776. 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

FEW  days  ago,  I  made  a  vifit  to  our 
friend  Shlagell  of  the  21ft  regiment, 
at  St.  John's,  where  he  is  ftationed  for  the 
winter.  I  cannot  but  fay  I  was  much 
pleafed  with  the  place,  it  having  all  the 
appearance  of  a  dock-yard,  and  of  being 
equally  as  bufy.  The  fleet  that  was  upon 
the  Lake  is  repairing,  as  likewife  feveral  of 
the  veffels,  that  we  took  from  the  Ameri- 
cans 5  they  are  laid  up  in  docks,  to  preferve 
them  from  the  inclemencies  of  the  winter, 
and  by  the  enfuing  fpring,  what  with  the 

Ihips 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  I  3  3 

f^iips  we  had  before,  and  thofe  we  have 
Imce  taken  from  the  Americans,  we  fliall 
have  a  fleet  far  fupedor  to  any  they  can 
poflibly  bring  on  the  Lakes. 

There  are  two  fchooners  here,  the  Carle- 
to7i  and  Maria^  which  were  buih  in  Eng- 
land upon  a  conflruftion  to  take  into  pieces, 
in  order  to  be  tranfported  acrofs  a  cariy- 
ing-place  of  about  two  miles.  After  their 
faihng  from  England  to  the  mouth  of  the 
rapids,  which  prevented  their  proceeding 
up  to  St.  John's,  rather  than  lofe  the  time 
of  taking  them  to  pieces,  and  re-conftru6l- 
ing  them.  Lieutenant  Schank,  of  the  navy, 
an  ingenious  officer,  informed  General 
Carleton,  that  they  might  be  conveyed 
upon  a  cradle  over  land  to  St.  John's,  entire, 
provided  there  was  a  good  road  made  for 
them.  The  General  acquiefced  in  this 
gentleman's  propofal,  and  the  whole  army 
were  employed  in  making  a  road.  One  of 
the  veiTels  was  near  half  a  mile  on  it,  by 
K  3  means 


134  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

means  of  cables  fixed  to  windlalTes  every 
twenty  yards  j  but  tlie  General  perceiving 
this  mode  of  conveyance  would  take  up 
more  time  than  the  other,  gave  orders  to 
have  the  fchooners  taken  to  pieces  and  re- 
built, which  was  accomplilhed  in  as  fliort 
a  fpace  of  time  as  they  had  been  creeping 
that  fmali  diltance  upon  land. 

Our  naval  force  being  far  inferior  to 
what  the  Am.ericans  had  this  fummer  upon 
the  Lakes,  it  v/as  deemicd  necefTary  to  en- 
creafe  it.  The  fhip-wriglits  were  initantly 
employed  to  build  a  frigate,  and  the  army 
in  cutting  the  timber  for  it,  which  is  now 
as  complete  a  velTel  as  any  in  the  King's 
fervice.  I  am  afraid  you  will  think  I  ufurp 
the  privilege  of  a  traveller,  when  I  tell  you 
that  this  frigate  was  conftrucled  in  fo  fhort 
a  time,  that  in  eight  and  twenty  days  after 
her  keel  was  laid  flie  was  in  a6tion  j  and 
what  was  ftill  more  wonderful,  there  were 
only  fixteen  fhip-wrights  to  build  her,  one 

of 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  1 35 

of  wliom  was,  on  the  third  day,  fo  badly 
wounded  with  an  adze,  as  to  be  of  little 
fervice. 

You  may  cafiiy  imagine  how  great  muft 
have  been  the  aftonifliment  of  the  Ameri- 
cans when    file  came   upon    the   Lakes, 
knowing  we  had  no  fuch  fhip  when  they 
abandoned    St.   John's.     Notwithflanding 
this,  they  fouglit  their  fleet  bravely,  and 
jOur  new-built  veliel,  by  the  falling  of  the 
wind,  bore  but  a  partial  part  of  the  en- 
gagement, the  ftrefs  laying  upon  the  Carle- 
ton  and  Maria  fchooners,  which- were  both 
much  fliattered.     On  board  the  latter  was 
General  Carleton^  who  had  a  very  narrow 
efcape,  a  cannon  fliot  pafhng  ciofe  by  him 
as  he  was  giving  direftions  to  an  officer, 
and  which  the  General  v/ith  that  coolnefs 
and  intrepidity  that  fo  much  dilf inguiflies 
his  character,  took  no  notice  of,  but  turn- 
ing round,  gave  his  orders  with  as  much 
K  4  com- 


136  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

compofure  as  if  he  had  been  in  the  moil 
perfect  ftate  of  fecurity. 

This  place,  which  is  called  the  key  to 
Canada,  when  the  works  are  compleated, 
will  be  of  great  flrength ;  there  are  tem- 
porary barracks  at  prefent,  both  for  foi- 
diers  and  artificers.  The  old  barracks,  as 
well  a§  the  fort  the  Americans  deftroyed 
when  they  abandoned  the  place,  were  for- 
merly quite  furrounded  with  woods,  but 
are  now  clear  for  fome  diftance  round. 

In  order  that  you  may  form  a  juil  idea 
of  this  important  place,  I  have  enclofed 
you  a  drawing  of  it,  reprefenting  the  two 
redoubts,  with  the  rope-walk,  the  (hip  on 
the  ftpcks,  and  the  other  velfels  at  anchor 
near  the  fort,  and  which  1  have  taken  from 
the  block-houfe  erefted  on  the  oppofite  fide 
of  the  river  Sorell. 

From 


r/f/r   roU.pa^f.   /,5f^ 


136  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

compofure  as  if  he  had  been  in  the  moil 
perfecl  ftate  of  fecurity. 

This  place,  which  is  called  the  key  to 
Canada,  when  the  works  are  compleated, 
will  be  of  great  ftrength ;  there  are  tem- 
porary barracks  at  prefent,  both  for  fol- 
diers  and  artificers.  The  old  barracks,  as 
well  a?  the  fort  the  Americans  deftroyed 
when  they  abandoned  the  place,  were  for- 
merly quite  furrounded  with  woods,  but 
are  now  clear  for  fome  diftance  round. 

In  order  that  you  may  form  a  juft  idea 
of  this  important  place,  I  have  enclofed 
you  a  drawing  of  it,  reprefenting  the  two 
redoubts,  with  the  rope-walk,  the  fhip  on 
the  ftpcks,  and  the  other  velFels  at  anchor 
near  the  fort,  and  which  1  have  taken  from 
the  block-houfe  ere6led  on  the  oppofite  fide 
of  the  river  Sorell. 

From 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 37 

From  this  place  I  went  to  the  IJJe  au 
Noix^  which  is  the  advanced  poft  of  the 
army,  on  which  the  20th  regiment  is  ftucion- 
ed.  This  ifland  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
in  length,  and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in 
breadth  j  it  was  entirely  covered  with  wood, 
but  at  prefent  greatly  cleared,  and  before 
the  winter  is  over,  we  imagine  it  will  be 
entirely  fo.  Although  fo  late  in  the  year, 
and  in  this  fevere  climate,  the  regiment 
ftationed  there  is  encamped,  and  likely  to 
continue  fo  till  after  Chriftmas,  as  it  will 
be  that  time  before  the  block-houfes  in- 
tended for  them  are  finiflied. 

Block-houfes  not  being  generally  known 
in  England,  fhall  be  my  apology  for  giving 
you  a  defcription  of  them.  They  are  con- 
ftrufted  of  timbers,  placed  one  on  the 
other,  of  a  fufficient  thicknefs  to  refifl  a 
mufquet  fhot,  and  large  enough  to  contain 
from  100  to  120  men;  there  are  two 
apartments  in  them,  one  above  the  other, 

in 


I^S  INTERIOR     TRAVELS       . 

the  Upper  of  which  is  a  divifion  for  the 
officers.  In  both  the  lower  and  upper 
apartments  are  two  pieces  of  cannon  and 
four  port-holes,  for  the  purpofe  of  point- 
ing thefe  cannon  on  any  hde  of  the  block- 
houfe  on  which  it  may  be  attacked;  and 
in  cafe  an  enemy  fhould  in  the  night  en^ 
deavour  to  fet  hre  to  the  houfe,  there  are 
loop-holes,  tlirough  whiph  the  troops  on 
the  iniide  c^n  level  their  pieces  and  fire 
upon  the  affailahts.  They  are  reckoned  to 
be  a  very  ftrong  defence,  as  it  has  been 
kno-ivn  that  a  fmall  party  of  men,  in  one 
of  thefe  block-houfes^  have  repulfed  treble 
their  ov/n  number.  But  that  you  may 
more  fully  comprehend  the  conflruction  of 
thefe  unufual  fortifications,  I  have  inclofed 
a  drawing  and  fection  of  one  of  them  for 
your  infpeCtion. 

The  fbldiers,  not  only  at  the  I/Ie  an 
Noixy  but  likewife  at  St.  John's,  have  been 
very  fubjecl  to  the  fcurvy,  not  having  any 

other 


^\  :v^^  ?^.  ^\  ^!  :sc  $;.  ^, 


^     k      ?V    V     ^1    W"   '^    hi 


^^ 


^ 


I 


V 


1^8  INTERIOR     TRAVELS       - 

the  Upper  of  which  is  a  divifion  for  the 
officers.  In  both  the  lower  and  upper 
apartments  are  two  pieces  of  cannon  and 
four  port-holes,  for  the  purpofe  of  point- 
ing thefe  cannon  on  any  fide  of  the  block- 
houfe  on  which  it  may  be  attp-cked;  and 
in  cafe  an  enemy  fnould  in  the  night  en^ 
deavour  to  fet  fire  to  the  houfe,  there  are 
loop-holes,  through  whiph  the  troops  on 
the  iniide  can  level  their  pieces  and  fire 
upon  the  afiailahts,  They  are  reckoned  to 
be  a  very  ftrong  defence,  as  it  has  been 
known  that  a  fmall  party  of  men,  in  one: 
of  thefe  block-houfesj  have  repulfed  treble 
their  own  number.  But  that  you  may 
more  fully  comprehend  the  conflruclion  of 
thefe  unufual  fortifications,  I  have  inclofed 
a  drawing  and  feclion  of  one  of  them  foj; 
yoijr  infpe6tion. 

The  fbldiers,  not  only  at  the  I/Ie  aii- 
Noix,  but  likewife  at  St.  John's,  have  been 
very  fubjecl  to  the  fcurvy,  not  having  any 

other 


ZJ  r^/ie  ri  /v  Ji/aced . 

The  Elan  of  the  Ground    Floor 
^/  •yV/c  lyp/'/  /irr/e-j  /i>r  y<7n'/to?i 

r- .y'/r  0:Wu- .  ^ 


Fjq.  /. 


(>/a  ji!^/o{/f-//rmJ^Jy' 


7j,//te  //U/y/o////, 


twr. 


The  Tlan  of  die  upper  Stor-^. 
^/  <i/f>.eyJurFt^n<fU^  ypr  (d/i  >ion . 
B  .^Mf  /r?Y  A/m. 

{■'y/if  /t/a^crrm  eu.<yt^me^ 

G   ,^Mf    /l^ >?/7(Hf'~. 

t'/Ziif/v  //urf/r   / //  //le 


Kctde  of  Feet  . 


■^ 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 39 

Other  than  fait  provifions,  but  by  di-hikhig 
plentifully  of  fpruce  beer,  they  are  now  all 
in  perfect  health,  which  clearly  proves  that 
liquor  to  be  a  powerful  antifcorbutic.  It 
is  fo  much  known  in  England,  as  to  need 
no  defcription  -,  the  only  difference  between 
the  fpruce  there  and  here  is,  that  here  it  is 
made  with  the  branches  of  the  tree  itfelf, 
^nd  there  with  the  effence, 

As  the  feverity  of  the  weather  fliuts  up 
all  intercourfe  by  letters,  this  is  the  lad 
you  may  expect  to  receive  from  me  till  the 
froft  breaks  np.  But  though  I  cannot 
write  to  you,  be  allured  I  fhall  continually 
think  of  you,  and  remain,  with  the  greateft 
efheem  and  fmceritv. 

Yours,  &c. 


LET 


140  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER  XIV. 


Montreal y  January  I'ith,  1777. 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

I  DID  not  expe6l  to  have  written  fo 
foon,  but  an  opportunity  of  a  flag  of 
truce,  v^^hich  is  going  by  the  way  of  Ticon- 
deroga  to  New- York,  unexpeftedly  occur- 
ring, I  am  happy  to  embrace  it,  efpeciaily 
when  it  is  impoflible  for  me  to  employ  my 
leifure  hours  more  fatisfa6lory  to  myfelf, 
than  in  endeavouring  to  divert  you.  I  fliall 
therefore  proceed  to  give  you  fome  ac- 
count of  the  winter  amufements  of  this 
place,  and  among  the  principal  ones  is  that 
of  carioling  upon  the  ice,  the  inhabitants 

making 


THROUGH     AMERICA,  I4I 

making  large  parties  every  day  for  that 
purpofe  J  they  generally  go  to  Point  aux 
T^rembks^  about  three  leagues  from  this  city, 
at  which  place  refides  a  Dutch  woman, 
who  makes  mofl  excellent  faufages,  and  at 
whofe  houfe  it  is  cuftomary  to  refrefli  with 
thefe  and  bottled  porter.  As  the  north 
wind  generally  blows  very  fliarp,  you  ac- 
quire a  pretty  good  appetite,  and,  for  my 
own  part,  I  enjoyed  this  petite  rep  as  in  pre- 
ference to  my  dinner,  very  few  regimen- 
tal mefTes  being  conducted  with  that  pro- 
priety and  decorum  which  fhould  charac- 
terize the  profeffion,  as  there  are  generally 
among  them  a  fet  of  ungovernable  young 
men.  But  to  return  to  my  defcription  of 
carioling. 

You  will  no  doubt  think  it  too  much 
to  go  nine  miles  and  back  again  for  a  jaunt 
before  dinner  -,  but  this  mode  of  travelling 
is  fo  very  expeditious,  that  mofl  of  the 
inhabitants  defer  their  journey  to  Quebec 

till 


142  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

till  this  feafon  of  the  year,  as  they  can  per  * 
form  it  with  lefs  difficulty^  and  much 
greater  expedition. 

Tli&  carioles  are  fafliioned  after  different 
devices,  to  imitate  birds  and  beads,  but  in 
general  they  are  of  one  conilruftion,  with 
only  this  difference,  that  the  common  peo- 
ple have  theirs  clofe  upon  the  ice  or  fnow, 
while  thole  of  their  fuperiors  are  raifed 
upon  what  are  called  runners,  which  elevate 
them  about  two  feet.  They  paint  them  of 
various  fantaftical  colors  ;  many  of  them, 
as  a  contrail  to  this  feafon  of  the  year,  are 
colored  in  imitation  of  thunder  and  light- 
ning. It  is  certainly  a  very  eafy  and  expe- 
ditious method  of  travelling,  for  the  horfes 
of  the  country  will  go  with  eafe  fifteen 
miles  an  hour  upon  the  ice.  The  inha- 
bitants think  nothing  of  a  journey  of  forty 
or  fifty  miles  to  fee  a  friend,  and  returning 
the  fame  day. 

Not- 


Through  America.         143 

Notwithilanding  the  river  runs  fo  rapid 
as  I  have  before  defcribed,  and  is  now  en- 
tirely frozen,  over,  yet  there  are  certain 
warm  fprings  that  never  vv'ill  congeal  j  to 
caution  travellers,  every  parifh,  as  foon  as 
the  river  is  frozen  over,  is  obliged  to  fix 
large  pine  trees  in  the  ice,  diitant  from 
each  other  about  ten  feet,  which  receiving 
rnoifture  frcin  the  ice,  and  being  an  ever- 
green, continue  fo  the  whole  winter,  fa 
that  when  travelling,  it  appears  as  if  you 
were  going  between  an  avenue  of  firs. 

On  each  fide  of  the  river  it  is  quite 
fmooth,  but  in  the  center,  where  tlie  cur- 
rent runs  fo  rapid,  the  ice  is  thrown  up  in 
prodigious  hills,  through  which  the  inha- 
bitants are  obliged  to  cut  a  paffage  to  crofs 
the  river  j  the^lides  are  frozen  (o  as  to  bear 
carriages,  long  before  the  center,  and  when 
that  freezes,  no  thunder  can  equal  the 
noife,  the  reafon  of  which  you  vdll  eafily 
imagine,  for  where  thcfe  rapids  are,  the 

ice 


144  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

ice  is  thrown  up  in  a  continual  fucceflion 
of  hills ;  between  thefe  hills,  you  are 
furrounded  with  ice  feveral  yards  high, 
and  there  it  is  inconceivably  cold ;  when 
upon  the  top  of  one  of  thefe  hills,  you 
cannot  help  flopping  to  view  the  many 
curious  forms  the  ice  is  thrown  into,  fome 
of  it  being  in  that  of  a  pyramid,  other 
pieces  that  of  a  cone,  others  again  in  large 
flabs,  and  fome  of  it  refembling  the  figures 
of  men,  birds  and  beads ;  in  fliort,  no 
defcription  can  equal  fo  romantic  a  pro- 
fpeft. 

The  Canadians  have  a  very  fmgular  cuf- 
tom  among  them,  at  the  commencement 
of  the  year,  the  men  go  round  the  city  and 
falute  the  ladies,  who  fit  up  in  ilate  for 
three  days  for  that  purpofe,  and  as  the  in- 
habitants are  acquainted  with  each  other, 
the  lady  is  generally  faluted  by  the  greateft 
part  of  the  men ;  the  fahitation  is  after  the 
French  fafnion,   upon   the   cheek,    vvhen 

having 


THROUGH    A-MERICA.  I45 

having  faluted  one,  the  lady  prefents  the 
other. 

The    European  ladies   who  are  fettled 
here,  rather  than  appear  fmgular,  adopt 
this  cuftom,  only  varying  the  falutation 
after  the  Enghfh  fafhion ;  not  but  what 
I  think  the  French  mode  preferable  on  this 
occafion,  where  the  lady  is  under  the  ne-^ 
ceffity.  of  receiving  the  falute  of  every  one. 
As  I  know  you  will  make  this  obfer\^ation, 
I  dare  fay  he  went  his  rounds^  let  me  candidly 
acknov/ledge  I  did,  and  with  another  officer. 
We  had  a  very  great  mortification  in  going 
to  the  houfe  of  an  Englilli  merchant,  who 
has  a  beautiful  wife :   upon  our  entering, 
we  difputed  who  fhould  falute  her  firfl  -, 
you  may  fuppofe  how  eager  we  both  were 
in  our  addreiTes  upon  entering  the  room, 
and  would  have  enjoyed  our  chagrin,  when 
we  faw  General  Phillips  there,  whofe  de- 
parture muft    be  waited   for,    before  we 
could  falute  the  lady  3    perhaps  you  will 

Vol.  I.  L  fay 


146  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

fay  the  pleaflire  was  heightened  by  con- 
templating her  charms — Prcejlat  expcBare. 

This  being  the  firil  CathoUc  country  T 
ever  was  iii,  you muft  fuppofe meparticu- 
larly  attentive  to  their  rehgious  ceremonies 
at  Chriftmas.  I  had  ever  conceived,  that 
moft  authors  had  greatly  exaggerated  their 
accounts  upon  that  head,  and  had  I  not 
met  with  convincing  proofs,  my  candor 
could  not  fuppofe  that  mankind  wTre  fo 
weak  in  their  underftandings.  .  That  the 
lower  clafs  of  people  iliould  be  led  away  is 
not  to  be  wondered  at,  but  how  TF.en  of 
learning,  found  fenfe  and  good  underfcand- 
ing  fhould,  is  to  me  aftonilhing.  It.  is 
allowable  for  every  man  to  worlhip  aiiy 
thing  fymbolically,  but  their  doing  it 
in  reality  never  can  be  admitted.  Thefe 
fuperflitious  people  implicitly  believe,  the 
waxen  images  that  are  lliewn  them  by  their 
priefts,  to  be  abfolutely  the-  perfons  they 
.  are  intended  to  reprelent. 

On 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  I47 

.  On  Chriftmas  Eve,  I  went  to  the  great 
church,  where  there  was  a  prodigious  con- 
courfe  of  people,  and  got  as  near  as  I  could 
to  the  altar,  to  obferve  the  ceremonies. 
About  nine  o'clock  the  fer\dce  began  with 
prayers  and  anthems,  which  lailed  till  ten, 
when  the  cradle  was  brought  in,  upon 
which  there  was  a  great  fhout ;  after  this 
the5''  continued  finging  and  praying  till  the 
clock  ftruck  twelve,  when  the  high  prieft 
brought  in  a  wax  figure  of  a  child,  fuperbly 
drelTed,  the  mufic  ftruck  up,  and  there  was 
a  fecond  great  ftiouting.  The  child  being 
depofited  in  the  cradle,  it  was  rocked  till 
about  one  o'clock,  when  the  ceremony 
finifhed.      ;  '  . 

■ :  >Iii  fome  of;  the  convents  they  are  ex- 
ceedingly curious  in  their  wax  images : 
there  was  a  reprefentation  of  the  Meffiah, 
which  was  daily  vaiied  in  its  fize,  from  the 
time  of  its  fuppofed  birth,  till  the  time 
the  Monks  had  fixed  as  necelfary  for  its 
L  2  being 


I4B  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

being  fufficiently  grown  to  reprelent  our 
Saviour,  at  the  age  he  vi^as  when  he  preach- 
ed in  the  Temple.  When  I  firil  went  to 
fee  this  wax-work,  on  the  Chrillmas-day, 
there  was  a  figure  of  Jpfeph,  dreiled  in  a 
fcarlet;  cloak,  with  a  large  tie  wig,  another 
to  refemble  the  Virgin  Mary  with  a  little 
child,  laying  in  a  manger,  and  over  it  was 
the  figure  an  ox  and  an  afs's  head;  which 
are  at  the  fame  time  emblematijcal  of  their 
own  flubbornefs  and  ftupidity.-  In  -a  few 
days  this  reprefentation  was  changed,  and 
there  was  another  of  the  Wife  Men  .making 
their  offerings  to  tlie  Sahator  Mundi  y  fo 
continuing  ev^ry  remarkable  event  of  his 
life,  till  the  time  of  preaching,  in  the 
Temple  j  and  whenever  I  went,  there  was 
always  a  vafl  concourfe  of  people  upon 
their  knees  praying  to  thefe- figures.  This 
mode  of  religion  appears. to  me  to ^ be  ex- 
tremely well  calculated  to  infpire  devotion 
in  the  lower  clafs  of  people,  yet  it  is  great 
pity  fome  better  method  of  paying  adora- 
tion 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  I49 

don  to  the  Divine  Being  cannot  be  adopt- 
ed to  infpire  a  true  fenfe  of  his  exiflence, 
than  means  fo  abfurd.  Difference  of 
opinion  concerning  religion  ever  will  pre- 
vail, but  left  you  think  I  am  growing  too 
fermonic,  I  fliall  conclude  this  fubje6l  with 
an  obfervation  of  a  Monfieur  BlondeauXy  at 
whofe  houfe  1  am  quartered,  and  who  is  a 
very  fenfible  and  intelligent  man. 

Convcrfing  with  him,  one  day,  on  their 
worfhipping  thefe  waxen  images,  and  other 
ridiculous  ceremonies  in  their  religion, 
Monfieur y  faid  he,  Moji  avis  eft  que  chacun 
doit  fuivre  la  religion  pour  laquelle  il  fe  font 
plus  d' inclination  J  et  je  fuis  ajfure  qiiaujour 
dujugementj  on  ne  nous  demandra  pas  quelle 
religion  nous  avons  profejee^  mais  que  nous 
ferons  tons  recompenfes  on  punis  felon  nos  ac- 
tions. 

As  I  informed  you  this  goes  by  a  flag  of 

truce,  it  would  be  unpardonable  to  omit 

L  3  men- 


150  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

nientionirxg  the  humanity  of  GePxcral  Carle- 
ton,  who  has  cloathed  all  thofe  who  were 
taken  prifohers,  they  being  almofl  in  a 
ftate  of  nakednefe  ;  many  of  them  he^^fuf- 
fered  to  return  to  their  homes  upon  their 
paroles  of  not  bearing  arms  again  during 
the  war.  Thofe  who  are  here  to  .be  ex- 
changed are  cloathed,  and  fare  the  fanie  as 
our  own  foldiers;:>siibtni  b; 

.  Fate  can  only  dertermine.  whether  I  fliall 
experience  the  misfortune  of  being  tak^n 
prifoner,  but,  if  I  fliould,  it  is  my  hdpe 
that  I  may  not  meet  with  worfe  treatment 
than  thefe  people  have  received. 

By  the  mode  this  will  be  conveyed,  I  am 
not  certain  that  it  may  reach  you  j  but  if  it 
fhould,  it  brings  you  my  beft  wifhes  for 
your  health  and  happinefs,  and  an  aifurance 
that  I  am,  with  great  fnicerity. 

Yours,   &c. 

LET- 


lilROUGH     AMERICA.  J  CI 


LETTER        XV. 


Montreal,  January  z%ih,  1777 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

r  H  "5  H  E  winter  is  now  fet  in  with  great 
i  feverity,  and  you  would  naturally 
conclude  that  this  countiy  is  the  moil:  un- 
comfortable in  the.  world,  and  its  inhabi- 
tants the  mofl  unhappy,  but  far  from  it : 
the  city  and  the  country  people  around, 
feem  to  be  perfectly  in  their  element ; 
there  is  nothing  but  carioling,  feafting, 
and  other  amufements.  The  Canadians 
perfe6lly  refemble  the  French  with  refpecl 
to  dancing,  having  meetings  at  each  other's 
houfes  for  that  purpofe  almofl  every  night. 
L  4  Thoug]> 


152  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

Though  the  weather  is  fo  fevere,  the  in- 
habitants here  never  ftay  in  doors  in  the 
day,  unlefs  it  fnows,  which  feldom  hap- 
pens, for  the  firft  fall  is  generally  the  only 
one  they  have,  and  that  lafts  for  two  or 
three  days,  after  which  the  weather  is 
fettled,  and  has  been  extremely  pleafant 
for  this  month  paft^  excepting  one  day, 
there  has  been  quite  an  Italian  Iky,  not  a 
cloud  to  be  feen. 

The  air  of  Canada  is  reckoned  the  moll: 
falubiiovis  and  healthy  of  any  in  the  world ; 
yet  notwithftanding  this,  the  Canadians 
are  very  confumptive,  and  it  is  incredible 
what  numbers  of  them  die  before  they 
arrive  at  maturity;  if  they  furvive  that 
period,  they  moftly  liye  to  a  good  old  age. 

A  very  eminent  phyfician.  Dr.  Kennedy, 
who  is  with  our  army,  attributes  this  en- 
tirely to  the  ftoves  they  make  ufe  of  in  the 
winter,  and  that  was  any  other  mode  of 

conveying 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 53 

conveying  warmth  fubflituted,  they  would 
in  all  probability  be  a  long  lived  people. 
For,  fays  he,  the  inhabitants  moftly  keep 
their  ftoves  heated,  and  in  coming  out  of 
the  frefh  air  to  enter  a  room  where  there 
is  one,  you  are  almoft  fufFocated.  How 
pernicious  this  muft  be  to  the  conllitution, 
efpecially  of  the  young  children,  who  are 
continually  going  in  and  out  of  the  heated 
rooms  into  the  fnow  and  upon  the  ice ;  and 
when  the  lungs  and  pores  are  expanded  by 
the  heat  of  thefe  ftoves,  run  without  any 
addition  of  cloathing  into  the  cold,  where 
the  blood  receives  fo  fudden  a  change,  that 
it  generally  leaves  fome  fatal  diforder  upon 
the  lungs. 

It  is  very  difficult  to  eradicate  long  efta- 
blifhed  prejudices  and  cuftoms,  but  if  the 
Canadians  were  to  adopt  the  mode  of  other 
northern  chmates,  where  the  cold  is  nearly 
as  intenfe  as  it  is  here,  I  think  they  would 
experience  the  benefits  arifmg  from  it. 

In 


154  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

In  Ruiliai  Germany,  and  in  all  the 
northern  parts  upon  the  Continent  in 
Europe  J  the  inhabitants  have,ftoves  hmilar 
to  the  Canadians,  but  fo  conftrufted,  that 
when  the  room  is  of  a  fufficient  v/armth, 
the  front  opens  v/ith  two  folding  doors, 
where  there  is  a  good  fire  in  a  grate,  and 
the  fulphureous  air  exhales  up  the  funnel, 
by  which  means  they  enjoy  an  agreeable 
warmth ;  if  they  perceive  it  getting  cold, 
they  (hut  the  doors  for  a  little  while,  till 
the  room  is  fjfficiently  heated.  The  Ca- 
nadian ftoves  are  fo  conflru(5led,  that  the 
whole  time  you  are  in  a  room,  you  are 
almoft  ftifled  with-  the  falphureous  vapor, 
which  mull  be  extremely  pernicious,  and 
in  all  probability  occafions  the  fallov/  com- 
plexion of  the  Canadians  ;  there  cannot  be 
a  jftronger  proof  that  it  is  fo,  than  its  hav- 
ing the  fam^e  effeft  on  Europeans  who  have 
been  fettled  here  any  length  of  time. 

They 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 55 

They  put  me    in  mind   of  Eiafmus's 

Di'uerforia   Gennanica ^^-B.    I?i  hypocm/Jio 

exuis  ocreas ;  induis  calceos ;  viutas^  fi  'volcSj 
indufiwn^  i:efies  pluvia  madidas  fufpendisjiixta 
hyfccaufium;  ipfe  te  admo'vcs^  itt  ficccris, 
Itaqiie  frequenter  in  idem  hypocauftiim  con- 
veniunt  oBaginta  aiit  nonaginta^  peditcs, 
equites^  negotiatores^  jiatita^  aurigce^  agricoke^ 
pueri^fcemina^fanij  cegroti. — G\5.  IJiiicvere 
cc^nobium  eji. — Be.  Alius  ibi  peBit  caputs 
alius  abjlergit  fudorem,  alius  re  pur  gat  per  ones 
ant  ocreas.^  alius  eruBat  aliuin.  ^id  mult  is  .^ 
Ibi  linguarum  ac  perfonarwn  non  minor  eft 
cofifujio^  quam  olim  i?i  twri  Babel.  Prodit 
famulus  fenex  barbd  cand^  tonfo  capite^  vultu 
torvo^  for  dido  vefiitu. — Gu.  T'ales  opportebat 
cardinalibus  Ro7najiis  effe  a  pocidis. — Be.  Is 
circumaBis  oralis  tacitus  dinumerat,  quot  f?it 
in  hypocauflo :  quo  plures  adeffe  isidetj  hoc  ^Y- 
hejnentius  accenditur  hypocauftiim  etiamfi  ali- 
oque  fol  ajluft  moleflus.  Hcec  apud  illos  prce- 
cipua  pars  efl  bonce  traBicnis,fi fudore  difiuant 
omnes.  Si  quis  non  affuetus  vapori,  apcriat 
.  .  ■  rimam 


156  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

rimamfenejlra,  ne  pr(rfocetur,  protinus  audit ^ 
Claude.  Si  refpondeas^  Non  fero :  audis^ 
Quaere  igitur  aliuddiverforium.— Gu.  At- 
que  mihi  nihil  zndetur  periculojiusj  qiiam  tarn 
multos  haurire  eundem  vaporem^  maxime  refo- 
lu^o  corpore,  atque  hie  capere  cibiim^  et  horas 
complures  commorari.  T'um  enim  omitto  ruBus 
alhatos^  et  ventris  jiatum^  halitus  putre's.i 
multi  Junt  qui  moj'bis  ocultis  labor  ant  ^  nee  iillus 
morbus  non  hahet  fuum  contagium. — Be.  Su?tt 
■viri  forte Sy  ijlarident  ac  negligiint. — Gu.  Sed 
interim  mult  or  um  perieulo  fortes  funt. — You 
will  pardon  me  fuch  a  long  quotation,  but 
it  is  fo  appofitCj  that  I  could  not  reiift  it. 

Although  the  weather  is  intenfely  cold, 
the  mode  of  drefs  in  ufe  here,  and  thefe 
ftoves,  prevent  your  ever  feeling  any; 
there  are  none  of  thofe  raw  damp  days,  fo 
much  the  fubje6l  of  complaint  in  England, 
and  from  the  bad  efFe6ls  of  which  no 
cloathing  will  defend  you. 

The 


THROUGH    AMERICA^  1  ^J 

The  drefs  of  the  natives  is  extremely 
well  calculated  for  the  climate  j  it  confifts 
(in  addition  to  the  common  habiliments 
worn  in  England)  of  a  blanket  coat,  a  pair 
of  what  are  called  leggings,  with  a  Idnd 
of  flap  on  the  outfide  of  the  leg,  to  pre- 
vent the  fnow  from  clogging  round  them ; 
fur  gloves,  and  a  fur  cap,  which  is  made 
to  pull  over  the  ears,  but'tliis  is  feldora 
done,  except  v/hen  the  flrong  noith-weil 
winds  blow.  At  that  time  it  is  very  dan- 
gerous to  go  out,  as  you  run  a  great 
rifque  of  being  froft-bit,  which  happens  in 
an  inflant,  fometimes  in  turning  the  cor- 
ner of  a  flreet,  without  being  fenfible  of  it 
at  the  time,  as  it  occafions  no  fort  of  pain ; 
if  the  pait  affected  is  not  immediately 
rubbed  with  fnow,  and  every  precaution 
taken,  it  is  fure  to  mortify,  andfhould  any 
one,  thus,  circumflanced,  be  imprudent 
enough  to  go  near  the  fire,  mortification  is 
inevitable. 


To 


158  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

To  convince  you  how  very  inftantaneous 
kimill  be,  I  ^iliall  relate  a  ludicrous  cir- 
cumilance,  which  however  had  nearly  been 
productive  of  a  duel. 

An  officer  in  the  garrifon  having  a  nofe 
remarkably  large,  was  going  to  dinner  at 
the  mefs,  when  not  four  doors  from  his 
lodgings,  turning  round  a  corner,  he  met 
another  officer,  who.  im^mediately .  cried  out, 
"God  blefs  me;  your  nofe  is  firoft-bit." 
From  the  fmall  diftance  he  had  gone,  he 
thought  it  impoffible,  and  that  his^  friend 
was  bantering  him  ^  high  words  arofe,  and 
they  parted  with  an  appointment  to  meet 
the  next  morning,  to  refent  the  affront. 
He  made  hafte  to  his  dmner,.  and  upon  his 
entering  the  room,  the  officers  prevented 
his  coming  to  the  fire,  telling,  him  at  the 
fame  time  his  nofe  was  froil-bit.e  Hethen 
began  to  think  it  no  joke,  and -was  happy 
to  apply  the  ufual  remedy :  it  w^^.no  bad 
punifliment  for  his  railmefs  and  incredu- 
lity, 


THROUGH     AMERICA,.^  I59 

Jjty,  that  during  the  time  the"  oitkqr^  were 
at  dinner,  he  was  obliged  tq  be  in  th^^-cpldj 
rubbing  his  nofe  with  Ihow  till  th^;  blood 
cireulated,  and  though  •  very- .  in&ip,  r  ie-t, 
obliged  tQ  nofe  ^  meaL  liejW(9>ili,b«Yj^,b^9x 
happy  to  paitakc  ofcoi;>  o  .'w  oiodi  to  In  «•-• 
:  ;„,  .  .. :  - ..!  oi  bt*;;iMo  sir:  ibriei'j 
eThe  prefeiit  feafoii  «)f \  the.  ye^ndtper-- 
mitting  any  military,  ixiaiiaeuvx^esi-  aiHl  na-. 
turally  inclining  us  more  to  refie6lions  of 
a  ferious  nature,  than  the  gay  appearance 
of  the  fpring  or  fitmmer,"!  fhaU  again 
trefpafs  -oniyoiir  ^patience 't^vith  'forrie  few 
obfervations  on  the  elFecls  of  the  intenie 
cold  weather  experienced  in  this  country ; 
and  as  you  have  always  appeared  partial  to 
my  adding  the  Temarks  of  others,  where  I 
thought  them  more  juil  and  beautiful  than 
my  own,  I  fhall  allude  to  fome  that  ilrruck 
me  on  the  following  phcenomena. 

■  I  have  already  m.entionedtoyou  that  the 
froll:  is  let  in,  and  among 'the  many  incon- 
to3ji23i  ,  veniencies 


l6a  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

veniencies  which  the  inhabitants  of  this 
northern  region  fufFer  from  it, .  none  is 
more  to  be  lamented  than  that  of  the 
ground  being  fo  much  frozen,  as  to  make 
it  impoHible  to  dig  a  grave  for  the  inter- 
ment of  thofe  who  die  at  this  time ;  their 
friends  are  obhged  to  keep  them  above 
ground  till  a  thaw  comes,  when  they  re- 
turn the  body  to  the  duli  from  whence  it 
came. 

You  will  eafdy  conceive,  my  dear  friend, 
that  the  daily  fight  of  fo  mournful  an  ob- 
je61:  as  the  bier  of  a  departed  hufband,  muft 
inevitably  lengthen  out  the  forrow  of 

*'  The  new  made  Widow— 
Whilll  bufy  meddling  Memory, 
In  barbarous  fucceffion,  mufters  up 
The  paft  endearments  of  their  fofter  hours, 
Tenapious  of  its  theme.'-* 

To  relatives,  who  often  think  it  a  reli- 
gious duty  to  mourn  the  departed,  fuch 

fcenes, 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  l6l 

fcenes,  by  a  protrafted  forrow,  often  draw 
life  to  its  utmoft  verge,  and  at  the  funeral 
they  are  fcarce  more  alive  than  the  corpfe 
they  bury.  To  thofe  who,  without  feeling 
a  lofs,  are  yet  led  to  contemplate,  it  often 
fuggeits  the  idea  of  Arbuthnot, 


'*  What  am  I  ?  how  produc'd  ?  and  for  what  end  ? 
Whence  drew  I  being  ?  to  what  period  tend? 


I  think  you  would  hardly  forgive  me, 
were  I  not  to  relate  to  you  the  very  (Irange 
manner  in  which  thefe  thoughts  affeft  the 
German  foldiers  of  our  army.  -  I  know  not 
whether  to  call  it  fympathy,  or  by  any 
other  name,  but  it  flrongly  evinces  the 
connexion  exifting  between  the  body  and 
mind. 

The  Germans,  to  the  number  of  twenty 

or  thirty  at  a  time,  will  in  their  converfa- 

tions  relate  to  each  other,  that  they  are  fure 

they  fliall  not  live  to  fee  home  again,  and  are 

Vol.  I.  M  certain 


l62  INTERIOR     TRAVELS) 

certain  that  they  fliall  very  foon  die  :  would 
you  believe  it,  after  this  they  mope  and 
pine  about,   haunted  with  the  idea,  that 


*'  Nor  wives,  nor  children,   fhall  they  more  behold. 
Nor  friends,  nor  facred  home." 


Nor  can  any  medicine  or  advice  you  can 
give  them  divert  this  fettled  fuperftition, 
v/hich  they  as  farely  die  martyrs  to,  as 
ever  it  infefts  them.  Thus  it  is  that  men, 
who  have  faced  the  dangers  of  battle  and 
of  fhipwreck  without  fear  (for  they  are 
certainly  as  brave  as  any  foldiers  in  the 
world),  are  taken  off,  a  fcore  at  a  time,  by 
a  mere  phantom  of  their  own  brain.  This 
is  a  circumftance  well  known  to  every  one 
in  the  army. 

In  cafe  of  any  deceafe  in  the  family  of  a 
Canadian,  the  corpfe  is  depofited  in  fome 
private  chamber,  but  in  our  general  hof- 
pital  there  is  a  long  room  appropriated  for 

that- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 63 

that  purpofe.  The  fuperintendant  of  this 
room,  an  apothecary,  being  a  man  poflelled 
of  whimfical  ideas,  and  a  turn  for  the 
ludicrous,  had  placed  the  dead  bodies  of 
thefe  poor  Germans  in  various  poftures, 
fome  kneeling  with  books  in  their  hands, 
others  fitting  down  with  pipes  in  their 
mouths,  many  {landing  ere£t  againfl  the 
wail,  and  as  they  have  their  cloaths  on, 
you  fcarcely  at  hrft  imagine  they  are  dead  -, 
but  upon  a  nearer  approach,  v/hat  with 
their  long  muilaches,  which  are  put  in 
form,  and  their  ghaftly  countenance,  you 
cannot  picture  to  yourfelf  any  thing  {o 
horrible,  yet  at  the  fame  time  fo  truly 
laughable  and  ridiculous. 

After  what  I  have  related,  you  will  moll 
probably  agree  with  me,  that  the  conftitu- 
tion  of  England  has  not  unwifely  declared 
apothecaries  and  furgeons  incapable  of 
compofing  a  jury  upon  trials  for  capital 
M  2  odences 


1 64  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

offences,  though  it  excludes  fome  few  of 
them  who  do  honor  to  the  profefTion,  by 
their  gentlenefs  and  humanity :  yet  I  am 
fearful  the  major  part  of  them  would  not 
join  in  the  warmth  that  is  fo  frequently 
experienced,  in  the  generous  and  noble 
burfts  of  joy  that  overwhelms  the  order  of 
our  courts  of  juftice,  when  unprotefted 
innocence  efcapes  the  arbitrary  and  re- 
vengeful profecution  of  malice  and  power. 
I  have  heard  furgeons,  as  an  excufe  for 
the  llrange  want  of  feeling  either  brought 
on  by  the  daily  vilitation  of  ficknefs  and 
pain,  or  which  they  poilefs  from  the 
apathy  of  their  nature,  fay,  that  v/ere 
they  to  feel  much  on  the  occafion,  it  would 
difable  them  from  doing  their  duty.  Strange 
argument  this!  and  as  contradictory  to 
found  fenfe  as  true  philofophy,  which  might 
teach  them  gentlenefs  in  the  manner,  and 
firmnefs  in  the  execution.  Foi'  my  own 
part,  fuch  is  the  fituation  of  my  mind, 
when  I  am  indifpofed,  that  I  have  fancied 

the 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  1 65 

the  afFecSlionate  "  how  do  ye"  of  the  fui- 
geon  and  apothecary,  has  done  me  as  much 
good  as  their  drugs,  or  the  performance 
of  an  operation  in  phlebotomy.  Can  any 
one  conceive  it  proper,  when  a  youth  of 
iixteen  has  broke  a  leg,  that  the  furgeon, 
while  in  doubt  on  the  firfl  vifit,  fhould,  in 
the  prefence  of  his  patient,  refufe  to  fearch 
whether  a  fra6lure  had  a6lually  happened, 
becaufe  he  would  make  fuch  a  roaring  and  a 
noife  that  he  fiould  7iot  get  it  out  of  his  head 
for  a  fortnight,  and  though  the  lad  with 
fpirit  afTured  him,  that  thofe  who  were 
prefent  had  not  feen  him  flied  a  tear ;  the  ■ 
furgeon,  however,  did  not  make  the  expe- 
riment, though  I  believe  for  a  much  better 
reafon  than  he  gave,  v/hich  v/as  that  the 
leg  was  much  fwelled.  Thus  did  a  furgeon, 
while  I  v\^as  in  England,  treat  our  coufui 
B — ,  lowering  his  fpirits,  leaving  him  three 
or  four  days  in  fufpence,  whether  his  leg 

was  broken  or  not,  merely  to  lliew  how 
M  3  coolly 


l66  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

coolly  he  could  talk  on  a  fubjecl  like  that 
before  him.  Had  he,  inllead  of  this  un- 
feeling excufe,  but  tenderly  alTured  his 
patient,  that  it  would  put  him  to  more 
pain  to  make  the  fearch  then,  than  at  a 
future  time,  I  fliould  have  fuppofed  it 
vi^ould  have  made  his  mind  more  eafy,  and 
been  the  means  of  preventing  the  accefs  of 
a  fever,  aiv^ays  to  be  feared  on  thefe  occa- 
lions. 

In  the  hofpitals,  perhaps  the  multipli- 
city of  cafes  may  plead  an  excufe  for  little 
ceremony,  but  in  private  pra6lice,  where 
they  are  well  paid,  thus  wantonly  to  wound 
the  feelings  of  thofe  who  are  but  in  ill 
fpirits,  cannot  add  either  to  their  credit  or 
pra6lice- 

You  will  long  ere  this  wonder  how  I 
have  ftrayed  from  the  wild  fcenes  that  fur- 
round  me,  to  laili  the  hardened  profefibrs 

of 


THROUGH     AMERICA*  1 67 

of  the  Efculapian  art,  but  you  too  well 
know  that  fuch  things  do  exift,  not  to  par- 
don my  deviation.  I  fliall  therefore  con- 
clude with  my  fnicere  wifhes  that  you  may 
never  have  the  misfortune  to  fall  into  their 
liands,  and  remain 

Yours,  Sec. 


M4  LET- 


l68  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 


LETTER         XVI. 


Montreal^  fehruary  Z'jth,  IJJJc 


MY  DEAR  FRIENDj 

A  S  my  lail  was  liable  to  the  infpe6lion 
•^  ^  of  the  enemy,  I  been  have  reftrained 
from  informing  you  of  many  things  that  it 
would  otherwife  have  communicated.  I 
embrace,  therefore,  the  opportunity  of  an 
officer  going  to  Quebec,  in  order  that  you 
may  receive  this  by  the  firft  fhip  that  fails 
for  England. 

Since  my  laft  I  have  been  again  to  St, 
John's,  where,  notwithflanding  the  feveri- 
ty  of  the  weather,  the  artificers  and  iliip- 

w  rights 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 69 

Wrights  are  all  bufily  employed.  We  have 
railed  upon  the  Lakes,  in  addition  to  the 
force  of  lafl  fummer,  a  curious  vefTel,  cal- 
led a  Radeaux,  which  formerly  belonged  to 
the  French,  and  was  funk  by  the  Ameri- 
cans near  this  place :  it  is  a  caftle  of  itfelf, 
of  a  monftrous  conftru6lure,  and  will 
hold  a  great  number  of  men ;  flie  is  in- 
tended to  convey  the  heavy  artillery  acrofs 
the  Lakes.  From  the  account,  indeed,  that 
we  have  received  from  fome  deferters,  the 
Amicricans  do  not  intend  to  difpute  them, 
but  wait  our  arrival  at  Ticonderoga. 

The  garrifon  at  St.  John's  has  been 
kept  very  alert  mofl  of  the  winter,  as  feve- 
ral  parties  of  the  enemy  have  come  acrofs 
the  Lake  upon  fleighs,  and  having  hovered 
about  the  woods,  twice  attacked  the  block- 
houfe  on  the  oppofite  fhore,  their  views, 
no  doubt,  were  of  deftroying  our  fleet; 
but  to  render  the  fhips  more  fecure,  the 
ice  has  been  cut  away  for  feveral  yards 

round 


170  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

round  them,   to   pre-^^nt  their  being  f^t 
fire  to. 


As  I  returned  from  St.  John's  along  the 
river,  my  attention  v^as  iiiddenly  caught 
hj  an  objecl  well  calculated  to  have  exer- 
cifed  tlie  feelings,  and  employed  the  pen  of 
a  Sterne.   ' 

When  the  river  freezes  over,  the  Cana- 
dians cut  a  fquare  hole  in  the  ice,  for  the 
cattle  to  drink  out  of.  I  faw  a  drove  of 
ilieep  furrounding  one  of  thefe  holes :  the 
whole  flock  looked  moil  piteouily,  and 
bleated  with  fo  mournful  a  lamentation, 
as  w^ould  have  pierced  a  heart  of  ftone ;  one 
of  them  feemed  infinitely  more  agitated 
than  the  reft,  and  exhibited  feelings  that 
would  have  done  honor  to  the  moil  tender 
fenfibility.  Curiofity,  concern,  or  what 
you  will,  led  me  inflantly  to  the  mouth  of 
the  hole,  where  a  poor  little  lamb,  not  four 
days    old,   urged  by    extreme  thirfi,    had 

fallen 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  IJl 

fallen  in  •  it  was  flruggling  for  life,  and 
lent  forth  fnch  diilrcfsfal  cries ! — my  God, 
how  my  pulfe  beat,  and  my  bread  was.  full, 
even  to  burfting! — how  often  did  it  get  its 
little  feet  on  flakes  that  feemed  to  promife 
it  fupport,  and  as  often  it  Dipt  back  again 
into  the  water ,  now  it  feemed  by  inelfec- 
tual  exertions,  anxious  for  life,  and  now 
hopelefs  and  defpairing,  lay  inanimate  3 — 
it  was  fome  time  before  I  could  extricate  it ; 
do  me  juftice,  and  guefs  my  feelings  till  I 
had  eire6lually  faved  its  life.  I  took  it  up 
in  my  arms,  and  the  whole  flock  follow^ed 
me  to  the  farm  houfe.  Todefcribe  the 
mother's  folicitudc,  and  the  joy  at  finding 
it  fafe,  is  impofhble ;  language  can  never 
betray  what  the  imagination  itfelf  can 
fcarcely  paint.  You  v/ho  are  poffefl'cd  of 
fympathy,  and  a  tender  regard  for  the  whole 
creation,  which  is  perhaps  the  greatell  or- 
nament of  humian  nature,  will  eafi]y  believe 
the  infinite  pleafure  this  little  office  of  hu- 
manity afforded  me. 

This 


172  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

This  is  one  of  the  many  things  in  v/hich 
the  mind  might  be  apt  to  arraign  the  wif- 
dom  of  Providence,  why  nature  fhould 
give  birth  to  fuch  tender  creatures,  at  fo 
rigorous  a  feafon  of  the  year,  v^dien  to  all 
appearance  they  require  the  utmoft  warmth 
to  bring  them  to  perfection. 

A  few  days  fnice  I  wTnt  to  Vcrchere^  to 
feefome  officers  of  the  24th  regiment,  which 
village  is  extremely  pleafant,  commanding 
a  very  extenfive  view  both  ways  of  the 
river,  with  a  profpect  of  this  city.  It  derives 
its  name  from  a  circumftance,  wherein  it 
is  proved  that  the  fair  fex,  upon  em.er- 
gencies,  pofTefs  a  courage  equal,  if  not  fu- 
perior  to  ours.  In  the  year  1690,  when 
this  province  was  in  a  continual  ilate  of 
warfare  with  tlie  Indians,  and  the  inha- 
bitants were  oblisred  to  re  fide  in  forts,  it 
happened  that  a  Madame  de  Verchere  v/as 
left  alone  in  the  fort,  whilft  the  refl  of  the 
people  were  at  work  in  the  fields ;  a  fmall 

party 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 73 

party  of  Indians  gaining  this  intelligence, 
were  determined  to  enter  the  fort,  plunder 
it,  and  take  her  prifoner ;  Madame  de  Ver^ 
chere^  however,  perceiving  them  approach 
in  a  pofture  for  fcaling  the  palifado,  fired 
fome  mufquet  fhot,  and  drove  them  to  a 
diftance^  they  inflantly  returned,  and 
were  again  repulfed,  ailoniflied,  you  may 
be  fure,  fince  they  could  only  difcover  a 
woman,  who  appeared  as  undifmayed  as 
if  fhe  had  been  furrounded  with  a  nume- 
rous garrifon.  The  Indians  knowing  the 
place  was  unprovided  with  any  other  de- 
fence, made  feveral  attempts,  and  were 
always  repulfed  by  the  lady,  who  defended 
herfelf  in  the  fort  for  near  four  hours,  with  a 
valor  and  prefence  of  mind  which  v/ouldhave 
done  honor  to  an  old  warrior :  they  were 
at  length  compelled  to  retire  entirely,  as  the 
inhabitants  of  the  fort  (who  always  went 
out  to  labor  with  their  mufquets,  in  cafe 
of  an  attack)  Vv-ere  returning,  and  greatly 
fuperior  in  number  to  the  Indians.     This 

was 


174  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

was  not  the  only  inilance  of  this  lady's 
courage,  for  about  two  years  after,  a  party 
of  the  fame  Indians,  but  much  more  nu- 
merous, furprized  and  took  prifoners  the 
men,  when  at  workj  a  little  girl  happened 
to  make  her  efcape,  who,  running  into 
the  fort  acquainted  Madame  de  Verchere 
of  what  had  happened.  Shortly  after  the 
Indians  appeared  before  the  fort,  leading 
the  men  captive.  There  was  not  a  foul 
left  in  it,  befides  a  young  foldier  and  a 
number  of  women,  who  raifed  mofl  lament- 
able cries  at  the  fght  of  their  hufbands 
being  led  prifoners.  \ri  the  midft  of  this, 
Madame  de  Verchere  loft  neither  her  courage 
nor  prefence  of  mind,  for  after  locking  up 
the  wom.en,  that  their  groans  and  weeping 
might  not  infpire  the  Indians  with  addi- 
tional courage,  and  aiTaming  the  habili- 
ments of  a  foidier,  fhe  iired  a  piece  of  can- 
non and  feveral  mufquet  fliot,  fhev/ing  her- 
felf  with  her  foldier,  fometimes  in  one  re- 
doubt and  fometimes  in  another,   always 

firing 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  I75 

firing  vipon  the  approach  of  the  Indians  to 
the  breaft-work,  who  did  not  make  a  fierce 
aflauh,  as  by  her  llratagem  they  fuppofed 
there  were  many  men  in  the  garrifon.  For- 
tunately for  the  lady,  flie  had  not  long  to 
remain  in  this  difagreeable  ftate,  for  the 
Chevalier  de  Crifafy  who  \^''as  Governor  of  a 
fmall  fort  at  Chamblee,  upon  hearing  the 
firing  of  cannon,  came  to  the  fuccour  of 
the  place,  and  that  fo  fuddenly,  that  the 
Indians  were  obliged  to  make  a  very  preci- 
pitate retreat,  leaving  their  prifoners  be- 
hind them. 

This  remarkable  lady  lived  to  a  good  old 
age,  and  died  in  Normandy,  where  there  is 
a  monument  erefted  to  her,  with  thefe  two 
fmgular  inftances  of  her  fortitude  and 
bravery. 

One  would  imagine  that  this  fpot  of  Ver- 
chere  was  deiiined  for  the  trial  of  fortitude 
and  bravery  in  tlie  fair   fex,   to  vvhich  I 

mii^hi 


176  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

might  add  conjugal  affeftion.  At  this 
time  a  lady  refides  here,  noble  by  birth,  in 
whom  is  united  all  the  foftnefs  and  deli- 
cacy of  her  fex,  ever  accuftomed  to  thofe 
elegancies  and  refined  enjoyments  v/hich 
are  attendant  upon  high  rank  and  fortune : 
fhe  has  forfaken  all  the  pleafures  of  the 
gay  and  fafhionable  world,  to  accompany 
her  hufband  to  the  wild  forefls  of  Canada^ 
already  travelled  a  vail  extent  of  country, 
in  different  extremities  of  feafon,  and  with 
difficulties  that  an  European  will  not  eafily 
conceive.  Such  inflances  of  connubial  at- 
tachment, in  the  levity  of  the  prefent  day, 
are  rarely  to  be  met  with ;  but  that  fuch 
characters  do  exifl,  and  that  the  pleafures 
and  gaieties  of  the  beau  vionde  have  not  al- 
together vanquifhed  the  focial  virtues,  is  to 
be'  inflanced  in  that  pattern  of  her  fex.  Lady 
Harriet  Ackland,  who  has  not  only  encoun- 
tered the  hardfhips  already  defcribed,  but 
upon  joining  the  army,  in  addition  to  her 
former  fatigues,  had  to  attend  her  hufband 

upon 


THROUGH    AMERICA,  177 

upon  his  fick  bed,  in  a  miferable  hut  at 
ChamhUe.  A  mind  Hke  hers,  animated 
by  love  and  afFe6lion,  is  alone  capable  of 
encountering  fuch  hardfhips. 

General  Phillips  commands  this  garri- 
fon,  and  is  much  efteemed  by  the  officers; 
of  the  army  3  he  gives  them  as  little  trouble 
as  poflible,  but  will  have  them  perform 
their  duty,  and  feldom  miiTes  coming  upon 
the  parade  in  a  morning.  The  following 
anecdote  will  give  you  a  trait  of  his  cha- 
racter, and  fliew  you  the  method  he  has 
of  gaining  the  efleem  of  the  officers : 

One  evening  feveral  young  officers  of  the 
artillery  having  made  a  little  too  free  with 
"  the  Tufcan  grape,  and  being  high  in 
blood,"  went  to  the  houfe  of  a  Canadian, 
the  father  of  three  very  pretty  daughters  : 
it  happened  the  young  ladies  were  at  home, 
and  as  they  liad  frequently  given  fome  little 
encouragement  to  the  officers,  thefe  young 

Vol.  I.  N  men 


178  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

men  thought  themfelves  warranted  in  tak- 
ing a  few  liberties  with  them ;  but,  as  the 
wine  had  deprived  them  of  all  ideas  of  re- 
ftraint,  they  proceeded  farther  than  the 
rules  of  decency  or  delicacy  allow  of,  or 
than  I  chufe  to  relate.  In  the  midft  of  this 
fcene  the  father  arrived,  whofe  appearance 
added  greatly  to  the  confufion,  and  the  old 
gentleman  making  a  general  alarm  and 
outcry,  the  officers  were  obliged  to  de-- 
camp. 

The  next  morning  a  formal  complaint 
was  made  to  General  Phillips,  by  the  father 
of  the  young  ladies,  who  faid  that  if  he 
was  not  immediately  redreffed,  he  would 
fet  off  for  Quebec,  and  lay  his  complaint 
before  General  Carleton,  at  the  fame  time 
informing  him  who  had  been  the  aggrefTors, 
adding,  with  fome  warmth,  ^'//  etoit  biefi 
certain  que  ce  bon  General  lui  re?idroit  jtij- 
tice. 

The 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  I79 

The  General  profefied  himfelf  extremely 
forry  that  fach  a  difgrace  ftiould  have  fallen 
upon  the  officers  of  that  garrifon,  and  that 
he  fhould,  for  his  own  fake,  render  him 
all  the  juflice  in  his  power,  in  order  to 
wipe  off  fuch  a  fligma  from  his  own  corps, 
which  pacified  the  Canadian, 

The  next  day  being  the  General's  levee, 
thofe  officers,  who  were  now  become  con- 
fcious  of  their  imprudent  behaviour,  did 
not  abfent  themfelves,  leafl:  it  fhould  argue 
guilt.  After  the  General  had  made  his 
bow  of  retirement  to  the  levee,  he  defired 
that  the  officers  of  the  artillery  would  re- 
main, and  the  reft  of  the  company  being 
departed,  he  addreHed  them  in  the  follow- 
ing manner : 

"  Gentlemen,  I  have  had  a  very  heavy 

"  complaint  made  to  me  by  one  of  the  in- 

"  habitants,  of  fome  of  the  officers  of  the 

"  artillery,  and  cannot  but  fay  I  f;:el  it 

N  2  "  more 


l8o  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

"  more  forcibly,  as  commanding  that  corps 
"  — and  of  fuch  a  nature  too — Gallantry 
"  has  ever  marked  the  foldier's  chara6ter, 
"  and  I  could  allow  you  to  ufe  every  per- 
"  fuafive  argument  that  lays  in  your  power, 
"  but  for  Heaven's  fake,  don't  ufe  violence, 
"  that  is  beneath  a  man ! — For  my  ov/n 
"  part,  I  do  not  know  who  has  been  guilty 
*'  of  fuch  condu6l,  nor  can  I  form  the 
"  leafl:  idea  of  the  perfon,  unlefs  it  was 
"  Capt.  H — ,  (pointing  to  an  old  and  in- 
"  firm  officer)  I  am  fure  it  could  not  be 
"  any  of  the  young  gentlemen,  certainly 
"  their  perfons  and  addrefs  would  have 
"  enfured  them  fuccefs.  When  you  folicit 
"  the  fair,  violence  becomes  unneceiTary. 
"  I  neither  know  who  the  officers  were, 
"  nor  do  I  wi(h  to  be  informed  j  but  let 
"  me  advife  them  to  purfue  different  means, 
"  when  they  next  addrefs  the  ladies,  as 
"  they  may  reft  affiired  tliofe  they  have 
"  adopted  will  never  fucceed.  I  only  defire 
"  that  I  may  never  hear  of  any  more  fiich 

com- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  l8l 

'  complaints,  nor  need  I  fuggeft  to  thofe 
gentlemen  who  are  confcious  of  having 
"  been  concerned  in  this  aftair,  that  it  is 
"  compatible  with  their  characters,  to 
"  make  every  fatisfaftion  and  apology  for 
"  their  conduct,  to  the  father  of  the  young 
"  ladies." 

I  need  not  obferve,  that  thofe  who  had 
been  the  caufe  of  this  handfome  reprirnand 
of  the  General's,  immediately  went  and 
made  the  required  apology.  Thus,  by 
the  natural  politenefs  and  addrefs  of  Ge- 
neral Philhps,  ended  a  bufmefs,  which, 
under  the  cognizance  of  a  more  auftere 
commander,  might  have  been  rendered 
fatal  to  the  chara6lers  and  fortunes  of  thofe 
who  had  erred  only  in  the  moment  of  ine- 
briation. 

Moft  of  the  inhabitants  have  large  holes 

dug  in  their  cellars,  which  they  fill  with 

ice,   and  thofe  wlio  have  them  are  now 

N  3  laying 


lS2  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

laying  it  in  for  the  fummer.  I  am  in- 
formed the  heat  is  equally  as  predominant 
as  the  cold  is  at  prefent,  and  were  it  not 
for  the  ice  cellars,  they  could  not  keep  their 
provifions  fweet  a  day.  At  this  feafon  of 
the  year,  the  inhabitants  have  very  little 
trouble  in  going  to  market,  having  only 
the  article  of  eggs  and  butter  to  purchafe, 
for  as  foon  as  the  froft  fets  in,  they  gene- 
rally purchafe  what  provifions  they  think 
will  ferve  them  till  it  breaks  up,  not  only 
flefli  and  fowl,  but  even  fiih,  for  they 
make  holes  in  the  ice,  and  let  down  nets 
five  or  fix  fathom  long,  which  feldom  are 
drawn  up  empty,  and  thefe  articles,  when 
brought  for  fale,  are  frozen  as  hard  as 
a  flone  j  the  provifions  being  laid  in  fo 
long  before  they  have  occajfion  to  ufe  them, 
are  always  tender.  When  they  want  to 
drefs  any  thing,  it  is  put  into  a  pail  of  cold 
water  before  the  fire,  otherwife  the  water 
would  foon  be  congealed;   in   about  an 

hour? 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 83 

hour,  wliatever  kind  of  provifion  is  put 
in  thaws,  and  becomes  fit  for  ufe. 

The  lower  clafs  of  Canadians  are  exceed- 
ingly infolent,  and  infult  the  officers  upon 
every  occafion  j  their  behaviour  would  be 
infufferable,  did  they  not  now  and  then 
get  feverely  chaftifed.  Was  I  induced  to 
hazard  an  opinion  as  to  the  caufe  of  this, 
I  fliould  attribute  it  to  the  very  great  in- 
dulgence fhewn  to  them  by  General  Carle- 
ton  ;  they  imagine  it  is  only  to  lay  their 
complaints,  however  abfurd,  before  him, 
and  be  redreffed,  according  to  the  fbory 
they  tell  him.  The  following  is  the  bell 
fpecimen  I  can  give  you,  in  confirmation 
of  my  afTertion : 

As  Colonel  Carleton  was  driving  his 
cariole,  with  a  lady  in  it,  upon  the  ice,  a 
Canadian  drove  his  Heigh  defignedly  againfl; 
the  Colonel's  cariole,  by  which  it  was 
overfet  and  much  damaged :  upon  this  the 
N  4  Colonel 


1^4  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

Colonel  gave  him  a  moft  fevere  horfe- 
whipping,  v^hich  the  Canadian  bore  very 
patiently,    faying,    with    a  flight    Ihrug, 
Fouettez  done  Monjteur,  jufques  a  ce  que  vous 
foyez  fatigue,  mats  je   ^oous   ajjure  je   men 
J>laindrai  an  General  Carleton.     The  Colo- 
nel then  encreafed  his  flagellation,   telling 
him  at  the  fame  time,    'Et  quand  vous  vous 
plaindrez  an  General,  (^yez  la  bonte  de  V in- 
former en  meme  terns,  que  ceji  fonfrere  qui 
'vom  afouette.     The  Canadian  hearing  this, 
and  prefuming  he  fhould  then  obtain  no 
redrefs,  began  to  afk  pardon,  became  very 
fubmiffive,  and  was  glad  to  make  the  bell  of 
his  efcape,  by  (linking  away  and  drawling 
out,  ^lefl  eut  fu  que  cetoit  k  fxere  du  bo:z 
General,  il  nauroit  fas  fait  cela  pour  tout 
au  monde. 

This  little  anecdote,  v/hile  it  convinces 
you  what  great  lengths  thefe  plebeians  go, 
when  they  imagine  themfelves  protefted, 
v^ill  afford  you  an  example  of  that  mean- 

nefs 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  185 

nefs  ever  attendant  upon  vulgar  and  bafe 
minds,  when  a  proper  chaftifement  is  be- 
llowed upon  them,  for  fuch  inftances  of 
their  audacity. 

I  am  juft  informed  there  is  an  opportu- 
nity of  fending  letters  to  Quebec,  from 
whence  this  will  foon  reach  you,  with  my 
fnicere  wiflies  for  your  health  and  happi- 
nefs.     I  remain. 

Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


l86         'INTERIOR    TRAVELS 


LETTER        XVII. 

Montreal,  Jpril  6th,  I'J'J'J. 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

A  S  we  are  now  in  daily  hopes  of  the 

froft's- breaking  up,  and  every  one  is 

anxious  and  impatient  to   hear   from  his 

friends,  do  not  let  me  meet  with  a  difap- 

pointment. 

Being  defirous  to  vifit  every  place  worthy 
of  notice,  I  went  to  Chamblce,  where  are 
the  remains  of  a  fort,  formerly  built  by 
by  the  French,  for  what  purpofe  they  are 
the  beft  judges  :  it  is  faid  their  intention 
was  to  prevent  an  army  entering  Canada. 

It 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  187 

It  is  fo  fituated,  that  an  army  can  march 
by  La  Praire  and  La  Chine,  take  Montreal^ 
and  then  turn  their  whole  force  againft  the 
fort,  which  would  be  thus  cut  off  from 
any  rehef.  This  has  been  clearly  evinced 
this  war,  when  General  Prefcott,  with  fe- 
veral  companies,  were  taken  prifoners  in 
it. 

The  fort  is  built  of  ftone,  of  a  regular 
fquare,  with  four  bailions  at  each  angle, 
without  any  out-works,  and  is  fituated  a 
few  miles  from  the  mountains  which  I  have 
already  defcribed  j  from  its  fituation  I  can 
never  fuppofe  it  othervv^ife  than  intended 
as  a  magazine  for  ftores  and  provifions  to 
fupply  St.  John's. 

About  three  miles  from  the  fort  are  the 
rapids,  which  prevent  fhipping  going  up 
to  St.  John's  J  there  is  a  fav/-mill  there, 
and  it  being  the  firft  of  the  kind  I  ever  faw, 
I  was  particular  in  my  examination  of  it. 

After 


l88  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

After  the  owner  had  given  me  every  necef- 
fary  information,  I  alked  him  which  Go- 
vernment he  preferred,  when  he  exclaimed. 
Oh  I  Monjieur^  il  ny  a  point  de  cojjjparaifotiy 
VAnglois  VAnglois !  and  then  related  a  cir- 
cumflance,  which  no  doubt  you  will  fay 
carried  a  powerful  reafon  for  the  poor  old 
man's  giving  us  the  preference,  and  affords 
another  proof  how  much  the  Canadians 
were  oppreffed  by  the  French. 

There  was  a  cuftom,  which  is  continued 
for  tlie  repair  of  roads,  tranfporting  pro- 
vifions,  and  other  fervices  for  Government, 
called  a  corvee ;  it  is  in  the  breail:  of  the 
Captains  of  the  Militia  to  nominate  fuch 
a  number  of  inhabitants  to  go  with  horfes 
and  carts  upon  that  duty. 

At  the  time  Lord  Amheril:  was  expe6led 
to  enter  Canada,  acrofs  Lake  Champlain^ 
the  French  were  continually  fending  fup- 
plies   of  ammunition   and   provifions    to 

Cham- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 89 

ChambUe  and  St.  John's,  and  the  inhabi- 
tants, as  well  as  their  cattle,  were  almoft 
worked  and  harrafled  to  death,  by  the  op- 
preffion  and  tyranny  of  the  Captains  of 
Mihtia. 

Before  the  campaign  commenced,  Gene- 
ral Montcalm  went  to  St.  John's  and 
Klhamhlce^  to  fee  that  thofe  garrifons  were 
in  a  perfeft  flate  of  defence,  when  the 
poor  peafants  afiembled  in  a  body  round 
him,  and  fell  on  their  knees  to  tell  their 
grievances.  The  man  who  owned  the  faw- 
mill  told  the  General  he  was  willing  to 
ferve  le  Grand  Monarqtie,  but  he  had  been 
much  opprelledj  that  his  harveil  and  plan- 
tation had  been  neglected,  and  his  family 
almoft  rained  and  ftarving ;  and,  to  add  to 
his  misfortunes,  que  le  deux  feids  chroaiix 
qzdhtirejloient  etotent  mo-rts  de  fatigue  la  veil  lei 
to  which  the  General,  inftead  of  comfort- 
ing and  redrelTing  the  poor  old  man, 
with  a  very  flern  look,  and  at  the  fame 

time 


igO  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

time  twirling  his  croi'x  de  St.  Lcuzs,  replied, 
Mais  votis  en  avez  les  peauxy  ceji  beaucouf, 
ceji  beaucoup  ! 

Among  the  various  amufements  we  en- 
joyed while  away  this  long  winter,  I  forgot 
to  mention  that  Ikating  is  one,  which  thofe 
who  are  fond  of  that  diverfion  are  amply 
indulged  in,  there  being  fuch  a  conftancy 
and  large  extent  of  ice.  There  are  feveral 
officers  in  the  regiment,  who  being  exceed- 
ing fond  of  it,  have  inllituted  a  fkating 
club,  to  promote  diverfion  and  convivia- 
lity. 

The  Canadians  fkate  in  the  manner  of 
the  Dutch,  and  exceedingly  fafb,  but  the 
Indians  dart  along  like  lightning.  Some 
years  fmce,  for  a  confiderable  wager,  three 
Indians  fet  off  from  this  place  at  day  light, 
and  before  dark  arrived  at  Quebec,  which 
is  60  leagues  ;  their  fatigue,  however,  was 
fo  great,  that  two   expired  fliortly   after 

their 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  I9I 

their  arrival,  and  the  third  did  not  furvive 
above  a  v^eek. 

In  this  country  there  is  no  fpring  nor 
autumn,  and  as  the  froft  is  daily  expelled 
to  break,  the  troops  are  kept  in  continual 
exercife.  General  Carleton  is  come  to  re- 
view the  different  regiments ;  but  the  fnow 
is  fo  deep  upon  the  ground,  they  are  exer- 
cifed  and  to  be  reviewed  on  the  ice,  which 
you  would  naturally  think  extremely  dan- 
gerous, and  that  the  men  would  flip  and 
do  one  another  mifchief  with  their  bayo- 
nets 5  but  fuch  is  the  power  of  the  fun  at 
this  time,  that  during  the  day  it  thaws  the 
furface,  which  freezing  again  at  night, 
forms  a  kind  of  fmall  ice,  affording  a 
fteady  footing,  added  to  which,  all  the  ice 
oppofite  the  city  is  covered  with  loofe 
ftraws  blown  from  the  dung.  The  foil 
being  fo  extremely  prolific,  they  have  no 
occaiion  for  manure,  and  therefore  bring 

it 


192  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

it  in  fleighs  upon  the  icCj  to  be  carried 
away  when  it  breaks  up. 

There  are  many  unpleafant  duties  at- 
tending an  officer,  but  none  more  fo  than 
fitting  upon  a  court-martial.  A  few  days 
ago,  being  upon  that  duty,  I  felt  myfelf 
much  diftreifed,  as  being  the  junior  officer, 
and  of  courfe  the  firft  to  pafs  fentence,  but 
was  foon  releafed  from  that  painful  tafk,. 
the  culprit  efcaping  a  punifliment,  by  his 
blunt  oddity.  The  crime  for  which  he 
was  tried,  and  for  which  he  had  been  twice 
punifhed  before,  was  that  of  drunkennefs 
and  diforderly  behaviour,  which  being 
upon  this  occafion  clearly  proved,  he  was 
afked  by  the  Prefident  what  he  had  to  fay  in 
his  defence.  He  replied,  "  Oh  !  and  plaife 
"  your  Honors,  I  have  nothing  to  fay,  but 
"  to  fave  your  Honors  and  the  Court  any 
• '  further  trouble,  you  may  fet  me  down  two 
"  hundred,  I'm  fure  your  Honors  will  think 
"  that  enough."  The  droll  and  fimple  man- 
ner 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  I93 

ner  in  which  the  fellow  fpoke,  accompanied 
with  his  dialed,  occafioned  a  fmile  upon 
every  one  prefent.  After  he  was  ordered 
to  withdraw,  the  Court  were  of  opinion, 
that  as  the  man  was  in  other  refpe6t:s  a 
good  foldier;  his  whimfical  manner  fhould 
in  this  inftance  fave  him  a  punifhment  j 
when,  being  called  in,  and  receiving  a 
fevere  reprimand  from  the  Prefident,  and 
his  promifmg  never  to  be  guilty  of  the  like 
again,  he  was  difmilTed.  After  thanking 
the  Court  for  their  lenity,  he  faid,  "  Since 
"  as  your  Honors  have  been  fo  good  to  me, 
"  I'll  keg  myfelf  for  fix  months,  diredly  I 
"  get  home."  As  you  will  not  eafily  com- 
prehend the  word  keg^  or  how  it  can  be  ap- 
plied in  this  inllance,  I  will  explain  it  to 
you :  it  is  a  cant  word  that  the  foldiers 
have  among  them,  when  they  wifh  to  re- 
frain from  liquors,  they  take  an  oath 
that  for  fuch  a  limited  time  they  will 
not  touch  any  fpirits  whatever,  and  if  they 
are  ftrongly  addicted  to  liquor,  not  hingcan 
Vol.  I.  O  tempt 


194  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

tempt  them  to  tafle  any.  Perhaps  you 
will  fay,  it  would  not  be  amifs  if  the  offi- 
cers fometimes  followed  their  example. 

It  is  incredible  to  think  what  a  difference 
a  few  days  makes  at  this  feafon  of  the  year. 
About  fix  days  after  our  regiment  was  re- 
viewed, the  fnow  began  to  thaw,  and  is 
now  totally  dilTolved,  except  where  there 
has  been  great  drifts,  and  the  ice  along  the 
banks  has  fuch  great  chafms,  that  the  river 
is  now  unfafe  to  pafs  over.  The  center, 
where  the  rapids  had  thrown  up  the  ice, 
every  now  and  then  breaks,  with  a  ndife 
equal  to  thunder. 

It  is  aftonifhing  how  quick  vegetation 
is  in  this  country,  you  can  almoft  perceive 
the  erafs  ffrow:  the  fnow  has  not  been 
gone  many  days,  and  the  fields  are  en- 
tirely green,  which  can  only  be  attributed 
to  the  ground's  being  continually  covered 
with  fnow,  which  nourilhes  and  prefei-ves 

the 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  1 95 

the  blades  with  fuch  a  warmth,  that  when 
the  fun,  which  even  now  is  extremely 
powerful,  can  come  at  it,  it  brings  it  for- 
ward fo  very  rapidly. 

The  roads  are  almoft  impaffable,  but  I 
am  informed  that  in  the  courfe  of  a  fort- 
night they  will  be  as  dry  and  dufty  as  in 
the  midft  of  fummer. 

In  going  out  of  the  city  towards  Point 
aux  'Trembles,  on  the  right  hand,  ftand  as 
{lately  old  houfe,  which  was  built  by  a 
perfon,  who,  after  many  difappointments 
and  loffes  in  trade,  with  the  moll  unremit- 
ing  and  indefatigable  induftry,  had  fcraped 
together  a  plentiful  fortune,  and  as  an 
allufion  to  the  particulars  of  his  life,  had 
carved  over  his  front  door  the  figure  of  a 
dog  gnawing  a  large  fiefliy  bone,  with  this 
whimficai  infcription : 

Je  fuii  Ic  chien  qui  rouge  l^os 
Sans  en  pet  dre  unjciil  tnoi  ceau  : 
he  temps  'viendra,  qui  n* ell  pas  venu 
ye  m;,rdrc.i  cclui,  ni'awa  mordu,    , 

O  2  The 


196  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

The  great  diverfion  of  carioling  is  now 
over,  and  the  inhabitants  are  getting  ready 
their  calafhes,  for  they  are  equally  as  fond 
of  driving  in  them  as  in  their  carioles. 

I  am  told  there  is  feldom  a  vv^inter  pafTes, 
but  feveral  people  lofe  their  lives,  both  be- 
fore the  river  freezes  over  and  w^hen  the 
ice  breaks  up,  by  being  too  adventurous  in 
croffing  it,  a  fliocking  inilance  of  which 
happened  three  days  ago, 

Acrofs  the  chafms  made  by  the  ice  in 
breaking  up,  which  fometimes  are  five  or 
fix  yards  wide,  a  bridge  of  planks  is 
thrown  5  a  cariole  paiTmg  over  one  of  thefe, 
in  which  was  two  perfons,  the  horfe 
proving  unruly,  drew  it  over  the  fide,  and 
they  fell  dov/n  the  chafm  near  forty  feet, 
where  they  remained  a  little  time,  it  being 
narrow  at  the  bottom,  and  though  every 
afliftance  vv^as  inilantly  had,  no  relief  could 
be  afforded,  as  before  the  ladders  and  ropes 

could 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  1 97 

could  be  let  down  to  them,  the  weight  of 
the  horfe  and  cariole  broke  the  ice  at  the 
bottom,  and  they  were  all  carried  away  by 
the  current. 

I  could  not  help  thinking  of  the  poor 
Iamb  in  the  fame  fituation,  and  lamented 
the  ftriking  difference  between  the  defpair 
of  a  whole  anxious  flock  for  the  lofs  of  a 
young  one,  and  that  bufl:ling  coldnefs 
which  difgraced  humanity,  at  the  fudden 
and  unexpe6led  death  of  a  man. 

The  cloathing  for  the  army  not  being 
fent  out  laft  year,  and  as  it  will  be  too 
late  to  fit  it  to  the  men  when  it  arrives, 
the  commanding  officers  of  the  different 
regiments  have  received  orders  to  reduce 
the  men's  coats  into  jackets,  and  their  hats 
into  caps,  as  it  will  be  the  means  of  repair- 
ing their  prefent  cloathing,  and  be  more 
convenient  for  wood  fervice,  that  when 
the  army  take  the  field,  they  will  in  a  man- 
O  ^  ner 


19^  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

ner  be  all  light  infantry.  The  regiments 
have  the  hair  that  is  affixed  to  their  caps 
of  different  colors ;  ours  is  red,  and  as  the 
purell  white  hair  takes  the  beft  color,  feve- 
ral  foldiers,  ambitious  to  have  theirs  fupe- 
rior  to  the  reft,  occafioned  a  very  ludicrous 
affray  betwixt  them  and  the  inhabitants, 
in  which  the  foldiers  were  worfted,  and  got 
a  fevere  beating. 

They  went  into  a  field,  to  the  num- 
ber of  about  twenty,  and  began  to  cut 
the  hair  from  the  bottom  of  the  cows 
tails  :  the  owner  obferving  this,  aiTembled 
his  neighbours  and  fell  upon  the  foldiers 
with  flicks,  when  a  fcuffle  enfued,  and 
the  foldiers  returned  home  with  broken 
heads. 

Two    that    had  been   feverely  beaten, 
made   a  complaint   to   the  Major  of  the 
regiment,  who  afked  them  if  they  had  on 
their  fide-arms,  when  replying  in  the  ne- 
gative, 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  1 99 

gative,  he  told  them  how  glad  he  v/as 
they  had  got  a  beating ;  that  they  fhould 
always  be  worn,  being  the  fame  to  a  fol- 
dier  as  a  fword  was  to  an  officer. 

The  inhabitants  fay,  that  the  winter  has 
been  quite  mild  to  what  the  lafl  was,  and 
if  {o,  their  hard  winters  mull  be  terribly 
cold  5  that  in  general  the  frofl  feldom 
breaks  till  the  end  of  this  month,  and 
fometimes  Mayj  and  as  a  proof  of  its 
mildnefs,  feveral  nations  of  Indians  have 
come  fome  hundred  miles  to  join  the 
army. 

It  is  a  pity  their  alTiftance  cannot  be 
difpenfed  with,  as  they  will  not  be  re- 
ftrained ;  they  are  abfolutely  necelTaiy  in 
this  woody  country,  and  efpecially  as  the 
enemy  have  them,  they  are  a  reftraint  upon 
each  other,  and  I  really  believe  fo  much 
mifchief  will  not  enfue,  as  if  only  one 
party  had  engaged  them.  Thofe  on  our 
O  4  fide 


200  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

lide  will  be  fuperior  in  numbers  to  the 
Americans,  as  they  cannot  furnifh  them 
with  necefTary  fupplies. 

The  attachment  of  the  Indian  lafts  no 
longer  than  you  heap  prefents  on  him, 
and  he  fides  with  that  party  which  will 
make  the  greateft. 

It  is  abfolutely  neceilary  to  keep  well 
with  them,  for  though  there  is  fuch  an 
amazing  tra6l  of  country  in  poflellion  of 
Europeans,  it  is  nothing  when  put  in 
competition  with  the  unknown  traft  that 
extends  to  the  weftward.  And  though 
the  Indians  are  much  depopulated,  ilill 
they  are  a  very  numerous  race  of  people ; 
it  is  altogether  unknown  where  many  na- 
tions are  fettled,  nor  could  it  be  afcer- 
tained  any  fuch  exifted,  were  it  not  for 
ftraggling  Indians  belonging  to  them,  that 
are  cafually  met  with. 

Thefe 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  201 

Thefe  people  are  under  great  rabjeftion 
to  their  chiefs,  and  pay  implicit  obedience 
to  them  :  They  come  every  year  to  Mon- 
treal, to  what  is  called  the  fair,  when 
feveral  hundreds  of  them  allemble,  and 
are  exceedingly  troublefome  to  the  inha- 
bitants, they  receive  prefents  to  keep 
them  peaceable,  and  in  league  of  friend- 
fliip  ;  it  is  incredible  what  immenfe  fums 
it  annually  coils  Government  for  that 
purpofe.  I 

General  Carleton  returns  to-morrow  to 
Quebec,  and  as  I  fend  this  by  one  of  his 
Aid-de-Camps,  who  is  going  to  England, 
and  who  has  fent  his  fervant  for  my  letters, 
I  am  obliged  to  conclude  haftily,  with 
affuring  you,  that  you  fliall  hear  from  me 
by  every  opportunity,  and  remain, 

Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


202  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER  XVIII. 


Mciitrsal,  May  ZOth,  1 777. 


MY  DEAR   FRIEND, 


NOT  having  had  a  letter  from  you 
thefe  fix  months,  it  is  impolfible  to 
exprefs  the  pjeafure  yours  gave  me.  I  fm- 
cerely  rejoice  that  your  health  is  re-efta- 
blifhed,  and  hope  it  will  always  continue 
fo. 

You  hint  in  yours,  that  great  events  are 
expelled  in  the  courfe  of  tlie  enfuing  cam- 
paign, and  that  the  operations  of  the  two 
armies  will  nearly  terminate  this  unfortu- 
nate conteft.     As  to  our  army,  I  can  only 

fay, 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  203 

fay,  if  good  difcipline,  joined  to  health  and 
great  fpirit  amongft  the  men,  with  their 
being  led  on  by  General  Burgoyne,  who 
is  univerfally  efteemed  and  refpecled,  can 
enfure  fuccefs,  it  may  be  expelled  j  but, 
as  I  obfei*ved  before,  we  have  more  dan- 
gerous enemies  at  home,  than  any  we  have 
to  encounter  abroad,  for  all  tranfactions 
that  are  to  take  place  are  publicly  known, 
long  before  they  are  officially  given  out  in 
orders,  and  I  make  no  doubt  but  you  will 
be  as  much  furprized  as  the  General  was, 
when  I  tell  you  that  the  whole  operations 
of  the  enfuing  campaign  were  canvafTed  for 
feveral  days  before  he  arrived,  who  no 
doubt  fuppofed,  that  in  giving  out  his 
orders  he  was  communicating  an  entire 
fecret. 

If,  therefore,  there  are  people  in  office, 
fo  imprudent  as  to  communicate  any  pub- 
lic intelligence,  no  doubt  the  numerous 
agents  and  well-wifners  to  the  Americans 

will 


204  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

will  not  be  negligent  in  gaining  continual 
and  immediate  information.  As  intelligence 
is  the  main  fpring  of  every  movement  in 
an  army,  the  Americans  will  have  a  great 
advantage,  and  what  v/ill  add  confiderably 
to  that  advantage,  is  the  great  fecrecy  they 
obfei*ve,  and  the  utter  impoffibllity  to  ob- 
tain the  leaft  intelligence  of  any  of  their 
defigns,  wdiile  they  are  previouily  acquaint- 
ed with  every  one  of  ours. 

About  three  weeks  ago  the  river  broke 
up,  which  was  accompanied  with  a  moft 
aflonifhing  noife  :  it  happened  in  the  night, 
and  you  muft  judge  how  ftrange  it  muil 
appear,  after  being  ufed  to  fee,  for  fuch  a 
length  of  time,  fo  fpacious  a  body  of  ice, 
with  horfes,  carnages,  and  men  travelling 
on  it,  changed  to  a  beautiful  river,  with 
a  number  of  fhips  and  boats  failing  and 


rowma:  uDon  it. 


The 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  205 

The  country  wears  quite  a  new  face,  and 
fummer  is  come  all  at  once.  The  inhabi- 
tants are  now  bufily  employed  on  their 
farms,  and  every  thing  appears  a  fcene  of 
buflle  and  induftry,  after  fuch  a  length  of 
tmie  paffed  in  dull  inaclivity. 

The  army  is  now  in  movement  to  take 
the  field  J  the  advanced  corps  are  already 
encamped  at  Boiicbervi/ley  and  were  review- 
ed by  General  Burgoyne  a  few  days  fince. 
I  accompanied  feveral  officers  to  fee  them, 
who  had  never  feen  1500  militaiy  men 
aifembled  together.  As  to  the  battalions 
of  the  light  infantiy  and  grenadiers,  fuch 
a  body  of  men  could  not  be  raifed  in  a 
twelvemonth,  fearch  England  through. 
The  line  of  the  advanced  corps  extended  a 
mile ;  they  performed,  exclufive  of  the 
common  manoeuvres,  feveral  new  ones, 
calculated  for  defence  in  this  woody  coun- 
try, and  tlie  General  was  pleafed  to  ex- 
prefs  his  approbation  in  the  warmeft  terms, 

with 


206  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

with  regard  to  the  high  difciphne  of  the 
men.  They  proceed  in  a  few  days  to  St. 
John's,  and  from  thence  they  are  to  go 
upon  the  Lake,  as  far  as  the  river  La  Cole, 
where  they  are  to  encamp,  till  the  main 
body  of  the  army  is  put  in  motion. 

I  was  much  pleafed  at  a  little  politefle 
and  attention  of  that  amiable  woman. 
Lady  Harriet  x^ckland— Exclufive  of  the 
excellent  qualities  that  had  already  endear- 
ed her  to  the  officers  of  the  grenadiers 
(which  corps  Major  Ackland  commands) 
flie  thought  proper  to  exprefs  a  fenfe  of 
their  attention  to  her  (and  who  could  be 
inattentive  ?)  by  fome  little  prefent  ^  fo  a  few 
days  before  the  officers  took  the  field,  £he 
fent  each  of  them,  (thirty  in  number)  half 
of  a  large  Chefhire  cheefe,  which  was  no 
iiich  fmall  prefent  as  you  may  imagine, 
Engliih  cheefe  being  then  a  dollar  per 
pound  J  and  perhaps  it  may  not  occur  to 
you,  there  is  no  prefent  you  can  fend  to  an 

European 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  20J 

European  abroad,  fo  great  as  good  Chefhire 
cheefe.  It*  you  Ihould  be  inclined  to  fend 
me  one,  and  this  is  no  fmall  hint,  let  me 
deiire  you  to  encloie  it  in  lead,  and  then 
in  horfe-hair,  the  former  to  preferve  the 
moiiture,  and  the  latter  as  the  only  fafe- 
guard  againll  the  amazing  large  rats  that 
are  in  fuch  great  abundance  in  almoft  all 
fliips. 

It  much  pieafed  me  to  obfer^  e  the  manner 
in  which  the  inhabitants  kept  Holy  Thurf- 
day,  which  they  term  La  Fete  Dicu.  On 
the  evening  preceding  that  day,  I  could  not 
conceive  the  reafon  that  the  people  were 
bringing  cart  loads  of  fmall  firs  into  the 
city ;  but  j  udge  hovv  great  was  my  fur- 
prize  in  the  morning,  when  I  went  to  the 
parade,  to  find  the  flreets  fwept  as  clean 
as  pofiible,  thefe  trees  ftuck  in  the  ground 
on  each  fide,  and  fo  contrived  that  their  tops 
united,  that  every  ftreet  had  the  appear- 
ance of  a  grove,  and  upon  enquiry  found 

it 


208  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

was  intended  for  the  celebration  of  this 
great  feftival. 

About  eleven  o'clock  the  procellion  be- 
gan from  the  great  Church,  which  extend- 
ed near  half  a  mile  in  length.  All  the 
principal  Clergy,  the  Friars  of  the  different 
Convents,  with  a  large  band  of  mufic  at- 
tending 3  in  the  center  of  the  proceiTion, 
under  a  canopy  of  crimfon  velvet,  fup- 
ported  by  fix  Priefts,  the  High  Prieft  car- 
ried the  Host,  upon  a  Bible,  Covered  with 
a  white  napkin,  and  before  him  two  men 
bore  a  large  bafket  full  of  flowers,  which 
were  flrewed  by  feveral  little  boys  in  fur- 
plices  J  four  others,  with  filver  chalices, 
were  continually  wafting  the  incenfe  to- 
wards the  Hoft,  the  people  at  the  fame  time 
fuiging  anthems.  In  this  manner  the  pro- 
cellion went  through  moft  of  the  ftreets 
in  the  city,  and  thofe  who  met  it  fell  in- 
ftantly  on  their  knees ;  thofe  who  remain- 
ed in  their  houfes,  came  to  the  windows 

and 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  20g 

and  did  the  fame.  I  cannot  but  fay  it  was 
a  pleafuig  fight,  and  could  not  help  think- 
ing but  it  muft  be  magnificent  indeed,  in 
thofe  countries  where  the  Roman  Catholic 
is  the  eilabliflied  religion. 

We  were  apprized  of  fome  proceflion, 
from  an  order  given  the  day  preceding  by 
General  Phillips,  but  had  no  idea  of  feeing 
fuch  a  fpe6lacle.  There  having  been  feve- 
ral  difputes  in  Roman  Catholic  countries, 
concerning  the  refpe6l  that  the  military 
fliould  pay  the  Hoft,  when  paffing  by,  his 
Majefty,  a  few  years  ago,  iflued  out  a  gene- 
ral order  for  that  purpofe,  which  General 
Phillips  gave  out  in  orders  as  follows  : — 
"  As  to-morrow  there  will  be  a  great  pro- 
"  ceflion  through  the  city,  I  need  not  in- 
"  form  the  officers  of  the  refpeft  and 
"  attention  his  Majefty  has  required  Ihould 
*'  be  paid  the  Ploft,  when  pafling.  The 
"  non-commiffioned  officers  are  defired  to 
"  be  particular  in  informing  the  men,  that 
Vol.  I.  P  "  when 


210  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

"  when  the  Hoft  is  going  by,  they  are  to 
"  front  it,  and  behave  in  a  decent  and  re- 
"  fpeclful  manner,  to  pull  off  their  hats, 
**  and  remain  in  that  fituation  till  the  pro- 
"  ceflion  has  paffed.  Any  complaint  that 
"  IS  made  to  the  General,  will  be  puniihed 
*'  with  the  utmoil:  feverity." 

To-morrow  I  leave  this  city,  to  join  the 
advanced  corps  at  the  river  La  Cole.  Situ- 
ated as  I  mufl  be,  confined  to  the  com- 
pany, which  I  am  proud  in  faying  is  com- 
manded by  Lord  Peterfliam,  you  cannot 
expe6l  the  whole  detail  of  the  manoeuvres 
of  the  different  actions  that  may  happen, 
or  a  particular  account  of  the  fiege  of  Ti- 
conderoga.  I  fliall  however  inform  you 
of  every  thing  that  comes  under  my  own 
obfervation,  and  give  you  my  opinion  of 
events,  not  as  an  ofhcer,  but  merely  as  a 
fpedator. 


r\u 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  2II 

The  officers  take  the  field  under  great 
difadvantages,  in  regard  to  horfes  to  tranf- 
port  their  baggage,  when  they  quit  the 
Lakes  j  thofe  for  the  ufe  of  Government 
are  fent  through  the  woods  to  Crown 
Point,  but  their  arrival  at  that  place  is  very 
uncertain,  as  they  are  liable  to  be  taken  by 
the  enemy.  It  is  quite  a  hazard,  but  ra- 
ther than  be  diftrefled  when  I  get  to  Ti- 
conderoga,  I  have  rifqued  fending  mine, 
with  fome  others,  through  the  woods  ;  if 
they  arrive  fafe  it  will  be  a  vafi:  conveni- 
ence J  if  not,  I  fliall  be  compelled  to  fend 
back  my  baggage,  and  then,  hey  for  cou- 
rage and  a  knapfack ! 

Should  any  misfortune  attend  the  cattle 
intended  for  Government,  it  will  greatly 
retard  the  army,  provided  the  Americans 
fhould  abandon  Ticonderoga  3  at  all  events 
it  will  impede  us  in  fome  meafure,  as  it 
will  be  feveral  days  after  the  army  gets 
there  before  the  horfes  arrive,  and  you 
P  2  '  may 


212  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

may  eafily  conceive  an  army  cannot  move 
without  its  artillery  and  provifions* 

Another  great  difadvantage  which  we 
experience  in  the  profecution  of  this  war, 
and  which  the  Americans  avoid  is,  that  we 
have  to  tranfport  all  our  provifions  with 
us,  whereas  they  have  magazines  ftored 
with  great  abundance,  every  thirty  or  forty 
miles  J  where,  in  cafe  any  difafler  attends 
their  army,  the  lofs  of  their  provifions  is 
eafily  recruited.  But  if  any  fuch  event 
fhould  happen  with  us,  we  fhould  be 
obliged  to  make  a  ftand  at  fome  llrong  poft, 
till  provifions  could  be  fent  from  Canada. 

Added  to  this,  the  Americans  are  by 
much  our  faperiors  at  wood  -  fighting, 
being  habituated  to  the  woods  from  their 
infancy.  Our  fuccefs  in  any  engagement 
muft  greatly  reft  on  the  bayonet,  the  great 
utility  of  which  General  Burgoyne  pointed 
out  in  an  order  a  few  days  fmce, .  ftrongly 

recom- 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  2I3 

recommending  the  officers  to  Inculcate  that 
idea  into  the  minds  of  the  men. 

After  I  leave  this  city,  you  muft  not  ex- 
pect to  hear  from  me  fo  regularly  as  you 
have  lately.  But  you  may  reft  alFured,  I 
fliall  embrace  every  opportunity  of  letting 
you  know  I  am  not  yet  food  for  the  crow^s. 

Yours,  &c. 


P3  LET- 


214  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER        XIX. 

Montreal,  May  z6th,  1777. 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

FEW  days  fiiice  I  was  invited  to 
dine  with  Capt.  Frazer,  who  is  fu- 
perintendant  over  the  Indians,  and  who 
gave  us  a  dinner  entirely  of  wild-meats. 
Mofl  of  the  dilhes  were  only  to  fet  off  the 
table,  there  being  fuch  things  there  as  very 
few  of  the  company  could  partake  of  -,  we 
had  the  leg  of  a  bear,  indeed,  which  was 
falted,  and  far  exceeded  in  flavor  a  leg  of 
pork ;  another  dilh,  which  though  deemed 
a  great  rarity  with  you,  is  not  efteemed 
fuch  here,  a  very  fine  haunch  of  venifon. 

To 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  21^ 

To  tell  you  the  truth,  I  really  made  my 
repafl  of  what  Mo?2/ieur  Roberdeau,  of  Que- 
bec, hinted  to  me,  of  the  Fria?idifcs, 

Juft  as  the  cloth  was  removed,  there 
came  into  the  room  a  great  number  of 
Indians,  (and  amongll;  them  one  very  old) 
who  not  having  much  ceremony,  and  feeing 
the  bottles  and  glaffes  on  the  table,  would 
drink  with  us,  and  began  to  be  extremely 
troublefome,  when  Capt.  Frazer  interfered, 
and  to  fhew  you  the  controul  he  has  over 
them,  the  inilant  he  fpoke,  they  quitted 
the  room,  but  not  without  a  prefent,  for 
I  did  not  underftand  the  Indian  language, 
but  as  I  thought,  and  as  he  afterwards  told 
us  he  was  obliged  to  order  his  fervant  to 
give  them  a  bottle  of  rum. 

After  we  had  got  rid  of  thefe  trouble- 
fome guefls,  and  the  table  rellored  to  order, 
Capt.  Frazer  faid.   Gentlemen,  I  obferved 
you  all  took    notice  of  that  old  Indian, 
P  4  which 


2l6  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

which  the  company  acquiefcing  in,  he 
told  the  following  very  fmgular  hiftory  re- 
lative to  him : 

That  Indian,  faid  he,  is  of  the  Algonquin 
nation,  who  are  converted  to  Chriftianity, 
and  who,  being  attached  to  the  French,  had 
excited  the  enmity  of  the  Iroquois,  whofe 
hatred  to  (j^^hriftians  carried  them  to  every 
excefs  of  fury,  murdering  and  tormenting 
to  death,  without  any  regard  to  fex  or  age, 
every  one  that  had  the  misfortune  to  fall 
into  their  hands.  To  efcape  the  fury  of 
the  Iroquois,  the  whole  nation  of  the  Algou- 
quins  were  determined  to  fight  their  way  to 
the  French,  in  which  ftruggle  the  wo- 
men took  no  inconfiderable  fhare,  but 
nobly  refilled  their  enemies  on  this  occa- 
fion,  when  it  fo  happened,  that  the  mother 
of  that  old  Indian  was  taken  prifoner. 

The  Iroquois  carried  her  to  one  of  their 
villages,   ftripped  her   naked,   bound  her 

hand 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  21/ 

hand  and  foot  in  one  of  their  cabins,  and 
in  that  ftate  fhe  remained  for  ten  days,  the 
favages  fleeping  round  every  night.  The 
1 1  th  night,  when  they  were  all  afleep,  fhe 
difengaged  herfelf  from  the  ropes  they  had 
bound  her  with  and  fled  into  the  foreft.  The 
fecond  day  after  her  efcape,  her  footfteps 
were  perceived  by  the  Iroquois  who  were  in 
fearch  of  her,  and  they  purfued  her  with 
fuch  expedition,  that  the  third  day  fhe 
difcovered  them  clofe  at  her  heels  :  fhe  in- 
ftantly  plunged  into  a  pond  of  water  that 
was  near  her,  and  diving  amongft  fome 
weeds  and  bulrufhes,  juft  kept  her  head 
above  water,  fo  as  to  breathe,  and  by 
this  ftratagcm  efcaped  from  her  purfuers, 
who,  after  making  a  moft  diligent  fearch, 
went  away  the  courfe  they  thought  fhe 
would  take.  When  night  came  on,  fhe  left 
her  fituation,  and  took  a  different  route 
to  that  fhe  perceived  the  favages  had  taken, 
by  which  means  this  poor  creature  wan- 
dered through    the   woods   for   five  and 

thirty 


2l8  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

tliirfy  days,  v/ithout  any  other  fuflenance 
than  roots  and  wild-berries.  At  length 
Itie  came  to  the  river  St.  Laurence,  and 
not  perceiving  any  canoe  along  the  Ihore, 
made  a  kind  of  v/icker  raft,  on  which 
file  croffed  the  river,  and  had  paffed  by 
Montreal,  not  knowing  well  in  what  part 
of  the  river  fhe  was,  when,  perceiving  a 
canoe  full  of  favages,  and  fearful  left  they 
might  be  Iroquois^  £lie  again  ran  into  the 
woods,  and  remained  till  fun-fet,  when 
ihe  directed  her  courfe  to  Montreal. — 
Within  a  mile  of  the  city,  fhe  was  difco- 
Tered  by  a  party  whom  Ihe  knew  to  be 
jilgonquins  y  when  they  approached  her,  fhe 
fquatted  down  behind  a  bufli,  calling  out 
to  them  that  fhe  was  not  in  a  condition  to 
be  feen,  as  fhe  was  naked  3  one  of  them 
then  threw  her  a  blanket,  and  conduced 
her  into  the  fort.  After  Capt.  Frazer  had 
related  this  ftory,  he  told  us  this  old  In- 
dian took  great  pleafure  in  telling  it  to 
every  one,  at  the  fame  time  exprefling  the 

utmoft 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  219 

utmoft  indignation,  and  vowing  revenge 
againfl  the  h'cquois. 

We  had  fcarcely  drank  five  glafles,  after 
Captain  Frazer  had  finilhed  his  narration, 
when  the  Indians  returned,  upon  a  pre- 
tence of  bufuiefs  to  him,  which  was  no 
other  than  that  of  procuring  more  rum, 
which -Captain  Frazer  refuhng  them,  they 
grew  extremely  troublefome,  and  what, 
with  the  hquor  they  had  ah'cady  drank, 
were  much  beyond  any  controul,  for 
they  paid  no  -attention  to  Capt.  Frazer, 
who,  finding  he  could  not  pacify,  or  any 
way  get  rid  of  them,  made  us  an  apology, 
and  the  company  broke  up. 

On  my  return  home,  mentioning  to  my 
landlord  what  I  had  heard  concerning  the 
L'Gquois,  he  faid,  Monfieiir^  les  Iroquois  font 
le  phis  f aire  age  ct  fraudiileux  dc  tout,  and  re- 
lated the  fad  cataftrophe  of  a  Miflionary, 
one  Father  Jogiies,  v.-ho  refided  a  little  be- 
low 


220  INTERIOR    TRxWELS 

low  ^rois  Rivieres :  imagining  he  had  made 
great  progrefs  in  converting  them  to  Chrif- 
tianity,  during  a  fliort  interval  of  peace, 
was  willing  to  fpread  his  do6lrine  amongft 
the  remote  of  the  Iroquois ;  for  that  pur- 
pofe,  he  fet  out  vv^ith  four  Indians,  and  a 
young  Frenchman  as  his  fervant ;  he  had 
not  paiTed  ^rois  RJvieres  above  a  league, 
when  his  four  favage  guides  abandoned 
them :  yet  fuch  was  his  enthufiafm  and 
eoniidence  of  having  wrought  upon  them 
fo  far,  that  his  perfon  was  in  fafety, 
he  would  not  return,  but  travelled  on, 
and  at  the  very  firft  Iroquois  village  he  and 
his  fervant  came  to,  he  was  too  fatally 
convinced  of  his  error,  for  they  were  feized, 
fiiipt,  fcourged,  buffeted,  and  treated  as 
prifon^ers  of  war.  At  this  fudden  change 
the  good  Father  was  in  great  amazement, 
and  began  (for  he  could  fpeak  their  lan- 
guage) to  expoflulate  with  all  the  powers 
of  elocution,  which  were  of  no  avail,  and 
the  only  favor  that  his  eloquence  could 

procure 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  221 

procure  him  was,  that  inftead  of  burning 
him  and  his  companion  alive,  they  hu- 
manely condefcended  to  behead  them  with 
a  hatchet.  After  my  landlord  had  finifhed 
the  flory,  he  faid,  with  great  warmth  and 
indignation,  Monfieur^  ks  Iroquois  font  frau- 
diileux  comme  le  Diabk,  ct  eji  "coyagent  fai 
toujours  crainte  de  le  reiicontre  -,  and,  from 
the  ftory  he  had  related,  you  will  no  doubt 
fay  he  had  very  good  foundation  for  his 
fears. 


I  am,  yours,  &c. 


LET- 


222  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 


LETTER         XX. 

Montreal i  May  31/,  1777. 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

BEFORE  I  leave  this  city,  though 
there  is  not  much  leifure  time  on 
my  hands,  I  fhall  communicate  to  you 
the  fruit  of  my  enquiries  (to  which  I  have 
apphed  myfelf  this  winter)  refpedling  the 
advantage  England  derives  from  Canada. 

It  was  a  complaint,  and  perhaps  not 
without  foundation,  that  Canada  never 
enriched  France,  and  that  none  of  its  in- 
habitants acquired  the  leafl  fortunes,  but 
the  Indian  traders.     As  it  was  not  the 

fault 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  223 

fault  of  the  country,  which  has  many 
ftaple  commodities,  from  which  a  fource 
of  wealth  might  be  derived,  whence  then 
is  to  be  attributed  this  caufe  ?  Firft,  from 
the  continual  flate  of  warfare  this  pro- 
vince has  been  in  from  its  Very  firft  fettle- 
ment ;  to  the  opprefTivenefs  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  the  rapacioufnefs  of  the  clergy  j 
from  which  caufes  (except  thofe  enterpriz-, 
ing  people  who  embark  in  tlie  fur  trade) 
the  inhabitants  not  having  a  ftimutative 
motive,  were  content  with  a  mere  exiilence, 
and  if  a  Canadian  could  but  pay  his  tythes 
and  duties  to  his  priefc,  and  lay  up  a  little 
to  enjoy  a  long  tedious  winter,  his  happi- 
nefs  was  complcat.  , 

But  the  fcehe  is  nov/  reverfed ;  all  over 
the  province  there  are  faw  and  grift-mills, 
and  the  Canadians  are  now  enriching  them- 
feives,  by  exporting  lumber  and  grain  to 
the  Weft  Indies  and  the  other  provinces. 
As  I  obferved  before,  it  was  not  the  fault 

of 


224  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

of  the  country,  for  to  perfons  induftrioufly 
inclined,  this  country  has  many  advan- 
tages, as  after  they  have  tilled  their  ground 
in  autumn,  from  that  time  till  the  middle 
of  April  and  the  begining  of  May,  when 
they  fow  their  crops,  they  have  to  cut  down 
timber,  and  to  faw  it  for  building,  {hip- 
ping, and  other  ufes,  ready  for  exportation 
when  the  froft  breaks  up.  Another  great 
advantage  this  country  pofTefTes,  is  the 
quick  vegetation,  for  the  crop  that  is  fown 
in  May  fprings  up,  grows  to  perfection, 
is  cut  down  and  carried  into  the  barns  by 
the  end  of  Auguft. 

Without  confidering  the  hardfliips  and 
difficulties  they  were  expofed  to,  the  Indian 
trader  was  always  looked  upon  with  an  en- 
vious eye  :  but  now,  as  they  are  not  liable 
to  the  rapacity  of  ftate  and  clergy,  but  en- 
joy all  the  privileges  of  our  happy  confti- 
tution,  their  induflry  is  very  great,  and 
thofe  winters   that  ufed  to   be  fpent  in 

feafting 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  225 

feafting  and  pleafare,  is  now  employed  to 
more  ufeful  purpofes,  and  an  Indian  tra- 
der is  not  now  a  man  Co  much  to  be  en- 
vied. 

Daily  experience  flievvs,  that  this  pro- 
vince is  capable  of  producing  more  re- 
fources  than  one.  What  motives  of  policy 
could  it  be  in  the  French  to  keep  the  Ca- 
nadians in  fuch  a  fiiatc  of  opprefTion  ?  It 
fnould  feem  that  France  was  fufiiciently 
proud  in  Iiaving  this  vafl  territory  annexed 
to  its  crown,  and  content  with  the  pro- 
duce of  the  fur  trade.  But  left  you  think 
I  am  entering  too  deeply  into  politics,  I 
fhall  conclude,  deferring  to  my  next  an 
account  of  the  fur  trade,  which  ftill  is  the 
greatefl  refource  of  wealth  to  England,  but 
which  muft  in  procefs  of  time  be  annihilat- 
ed, from  the  very  great  deftru6lion  of  the 
animals,  v/hich  every  year  diminifhes  them 
fo  fall,  and  occafions  their  flying  to  re- 
moter parts,  that  the  trader  has  hundreds 

Vol.  I.  Q_  of 


226  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

of  leagues  farther  to  go  in  fearch  of  them ; 
the  neceffity,  therefore  of  encouraging  huf- 
bandry,  will  appear  evident  to  you.  But 
I  fee  I  am  again  running  into  politics, 
therefore  adieu. 

Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  22/ 


LETTER         XXI. 


Montreal,  June  ^d,   1777. 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 


IN  O  W  proceed  to  give  you  fome  ac- 
count of  the  fur  trade,  and  as  in  one  of 
my  former  letters  the  nature  of  Indian  tra- 
ders were  defcribed  to  you  and  their  modes 
of  trafficking  with  the  favages,  I  fhall  give 
you  fome  Httle  account  of  the  beafts, 
whofe  furs  they  go  in  fearch  of,  and  hope 
you  will  not  think  any  little  remarks  that 
I  may  interfperfe,  as  dilating  to  your  fu- 
perior  fenfe  and  underftanding,  but  merely 
ideas  that  occur  to  me  whilft  writing. 

Qj  By 


228  INTETIIOR     TRAVELS 

By  the  accounts  mod  authors  have  given 
us  of  Canada,  they  defcribe  it,  upon  its  firft 
difcoverv,  to  have  been  an  immenfe  tract 
of  foreftj  ferving  only  as  an  extenfive  haunt 
to  wild  beads,  with  which  it  was  over-run, 
and  which  had  multiplied  prodigioufly  j 
for  thofe  fevv^  men  who  did  inhabit  thofe 
deferts,  not  having  any  flocks  or  tame  ani- 
mals, left  more  room  and  food  for  thofe 
that  were  wandering  and  free,  like  them- 
felves ;  and  although  there  was  no  great 
variety,  flill  there  were  multitudes  of  each 
fpecies.  But  they,  as  every  thing,  fooner  or 
later,  in  this  terreftrial  globe,  paid  tribute 
to  the  fovereignty  of  man ;  that  cruel 
power  that  has  been  fo  fatal  to  every  living 
creature,  and  the  few  that  the  natives  de- 
droyed  for  their  food  and  cloathing,  were 
of  little  note  in  fuch  a  prodigious  multi- 
tude. No  fooner  had  our  luxuiy  led  us 
to  make  ufe  of  their  fkins,  than  the  natives 
waged  a  perpetual  war  againd  them,  which 
they  carried  on  with  great  eagernefs,  as  in 

return 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  229 

return  for  the  havoc  and  deftruclion  they 
made  amongll:  them,  they  indulged  in  a 
plenty  and  variety  of  gratifications  they 
w^ere  before  unaccuflomed  to ;  and  to  ren- 
der the  war  the  more  deftruclive,  we  aflifted 
them  v^'ith  fire-arms,  by  the  means  of 
which  great  quantities  of  furs,  and  of  a 
prodigious  variety,  were  procured.  Moft 
■of  thefe  were  known  in  Europe,  which 
were  the  fame  as  thofe  that  came  from  the 
northern  parts  of  ourhemifphere,  but  they 
were  in  too  fmall  quantities  to  fupply  a 
great  demand. 

Caprice  and  novelty  has  made  thefe  furs 
more  or  lefs  in  fafliion,  and  England  has 
found  it  to  be  for  the  intereft  of  Canada, 
that  they  fhould  be  valued  at  home  j  and 
that  they  are  (o  with  a  witnefs,  the  enor- 
mous price  your  fifter  gave  for  a  muff  and 
tippet,  is  a  convincing  proof :  here  I  aflurc 
you  they  are  very  dear,  the  commonefl  fur 
cap  (landing  you  in  two  guineas. 

CL3  As 


230  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

Having  given  you  a  little  hillory  of 
furs,  I  fhall  now  defcribe  to  you  fome  of 
the  beafts  whofe  fkins  are  flill  in  requeft, 
and  firft  begin  with  the  Otter,  which  is  fo 
generally  known  in  England,  as  to  need  no 
defcription;  there  is  no  other  difference 
than  that  it  is  much  larger,  and  its  hair 
blacker  and  finer  than  ours,  a  circumflance 
fatal  to  them,  as  expoling  them  more  to 
the  purfuit  of  the  favages. 

The  Pole-cat,  of  which  there  are  three 
fpecies,  is  in  great  ellimation  among  the 
Canadian  hunters,  as  the  hair  is  darker, 
more  glolTy,  and  more  filky  than  thofe  in 
Europe. 

Even  the  Rat  of  North- America  is  valu- 
able for  its  fkin ;  but  the  two  principal 
ones  that  are  in  the  article  of  trade  is  the 
OppolTum  and  the  Mufk ;  many  and  ridi- 
culous are  the  ftories  which  are  propagated 
relative  to  the  female  of  the  former,  fuch 

as. 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  271 

among  othrs,  that  of  the  young  ones  get- 
ting into  the  belly  again  through  the  teats, 
the    faiSt   is    this,    under   its  belly   there 
is  a  loofe  Ikin,  with  a  fmall  aperture  in 
the  center,  and  this  flie  can   expand  or 
deprefs  at  will  j  if  purfued,  and  flie  thinks 
her  young  are  in  danger,  fhe  puts  them 
into  this  bag,  and  runs  away  with  them  up 
a  tree.     Another  fuigular  inftance  of  faga- 
city  in  this  animal,  which  is  feldom  men- 
tioned, is,  that  if  purfued  by  other  animals, 
fuch  as  the  Tiger,  Mountain-cat,  &c.  that 
can  mount  trees,  it  goes  to  the  extremity 
of  a  bough,  and  fufpends  itfclf  by  its  tail. 
The  Ikin  of  the  Mulk-rat  is  employed  for 
the  fame  purpofes  as  the  Beaver,  of  which 
he  feems  to  be  a  diminutive  ;  but  its  molt 
intrinfic  value  is  for  that  predominant  and 
powerful  perfume  it  produces,  and  which 
is  called  after  this  animal. 

The  Ermine  is  about  the  fizcof  afquirrel, 

but  not  fo  long,  lias  the  fame  lively  eyes, 

0^4  keen 


232  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

look,  and  his  motions  are  fo  quick,  that 
the  eye  can  fcarcely  follow  them,  it  has  a 
long  bufhy  tail,  which  at  the  tip  is  as  black 
as  jet;  what  enables  me  to  give  you  fo 
exa6l  a  defcription  of  this  little  animal  is, 
that  the  daughter  of  the  gentleman  at 
whofe  houfe  I  lodge,  has  one  in  her  polfef- 
fion  i  indeed  it  is  the  fafhion  for  the  young 
ladies  to  keep  them,  as  ours  do  fquirrels. 
One  thing  not  a  little  extraordinary  of  this 
animal  is,  that  all  the  winter  it  was  white 
as  fnow,  and  the  other  day,  when  admir- 
ing it,  I  exprefTed  a  furprize  in  perceiving 
it  had  a  yellow  tint,  when  the  young  lady 
faid,  Ah!  Monfieur^  au  milieu  de  fete  cejl 
j.aune  cofmne  d'or.  This  little  animal  is 
reckoned  one  of  the  beauties  of  Canada, 
for  though  the  fable  is  fmaller,  it  is  not  fo 
common. 

The  Martin,  whofe  fkin  is  the  mofl  va- 
luable, is  only  to  be  met  with  in  the  center 
of  the  forefts,  far  from  any  habitation, 

and 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  233 

and  although  fo  fmall  an  animal,  is  a  beaft 
of  prey,   living  entirely  upon  birds.     It  is 
but  a  foot  and  a  half  long,  yet  leaves  a 
print  in  the  fnow,  which  appears   to  be 
the  footllep  of  a  larger  animal,  occafioned 
by  its  jumping  along  and  giving  the  marks 
of  both  feet  together :  their  fur  is  much 
efteemed,    but  is  inferior  to  that  fpecies 
which  are  called  fables,  whofe  ikins  are 
of  a  Ihining  black.     Thofe  of  the  Martin 
encreafe  in  value  from  the  various  dyes, 
the  deeper  the  tint  the  more  valuable,  and 
they  gradually  encreafe  from  a  light  brown 
to  the  deep  gloily  black  of  the  fable.     The 
Martins  feldom  more  than  once  in  two  or 
three  years  quit  their  recelles  in  thefe  im- 
penetrable woods,  and  when  they  do,  the 
Canadians  take  it  as  a  lign  of  a  good  win- 
ter, imagining  there  will  be  great  quanti- 
ties of  fnow,  and  confequently  good  fport 
in  deftroying  them. 

The 


234  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

The  Wild-cat  of  Canada  is  reckoned 
much  fmaller  than  thofe  upon  the  northern 
continent  of  Europe,  and  is  the  fame  kind 
of  animal  that  was  called  by  the  ancients 
the  Lynx,  of  which  an  erroneous  opinion 
has  ever  prevailed  amongft  the  vulgar, 
that  it  is  pofTelTed  of  the  power  of  pierc- 
ing to  death  with  its  eyes  whatever  it  def- 
tines  for  its  prey,  as  nature  had  deprived  it 
of  the  faculties  of  hearing  and  fmelling  at 
a  diftancCj  which  miftaken  notion  muft 
have  arifen  from  this  fimple  caufe,  that  as 
tlus  animal  lives  upon  what  game  it  can 
catch,  it  will  purfae  it  to  the  very  tops  of 
the  tailed  trees,  and  nature  having  en- 
dowed it  with  a  quickei'  fight  than  moft 
other  animals,  whatever  it  purfues,  though 
of  ever  fo  fmall  a  nature,  it  never  lofes 
fight  of,  let  the  foliage  of  the  trees  be  ever 
fo  thick.  The  flefh  of  this  animal  is  very 
white,  and  faid  to  be  well  flavored,  but  the 
Indians  hunt  it  chiefly  for  its  fkin,  the 
hair  of  it  being  long,  and  of  a  fine  hght 


> 

THROUGH    AMERICA.  235 

grey,  but  not  fo  valuable  as  that  of  the 
fox. 

This  animal,  like  other  natives  of  the 
frozen  climates,  where  nature  produces 
but  few  vegetables,  is  cai'niverous. 

Befides  the  fmall  furs,  Canada  fupplies 
England  with  the  fklns  of  the  Stag,  Deer, 
Roebuck,  the  Caribou  and  the  Elk,  the 
latter  of  which  is  fuppofed  to  be  the  ori- 
ginal of  all  thefe  fpecies.  All  thefe  animals 
are  hunted  by  the  Canadians,  but  the  chace 
of  the  Bear  the  favages  have  referved  to 
themfelves,  and  which  is  their  favorite 
fport ;  it  feems  beft  adapted  to  their  war- 
like manners,  ftrcngth  and  bravery,  and 
efpecially  as  thofe  animals  fupply  mofl  of 
their  wants. 

Fearful  left  you  may  grow  tired  of  this 
heavy  detail  of  wild  beails,  I  Ihall  conclude 
this,  referving  to  my  next  the  defcription 

of 


236  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

of  the  only  two  that  are  worthy  of  notice, 
the  Bear  and  the  Beaver,  the  latter  of 
which  poflefTes  all  the  friendly  difpofitions, 
divefted  of  all  the  vices  and  misfortunes 
that  await  us,  and  which  debars  us  from 
the  true  and  real  pleafures  arihng  from  the 
friendly  and  fweet  intercourfe  that  fliould 
fubfifl  between  man  and  man. 


Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  237 


LETTER        XXII. 


Montreal,    'June  lib,  1777. 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

OPPORTUNITIES  almoft  daily  occur- 
ing,  I  am  happy  to  embrace  them, 
during  the  little  time  I  have  to  remain  in 
this  city ;  when  I  quit  it,  you  will  think 
me  very  remifs  in  addrelling  you.  Let  me 
fmcerely  afTure  you,  although  there  will  be 
no  regular  conveyance,  I  fliall  embrace 
every  opportunity  that  offers. 

As  in  my  laft  I  mentioned  to  you  that 
tlie  ravages  v/crc  Supplied  with  moil  of 
their  wants  from  the  Bear,  feeding  upon 

its 


238  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

its  flefh,  rubbing  themfelves  with  it? 
greafe,  and  cloathing  themfelves  v^^ith  its 
ikin,  it  may  not  be  amifs  to  give  you  fome 
little  account  of  this  animal,  and  the  fin- 
gular  method  they  have  of  deilroying  them. 

As  no  doubt  you  mufl  have  feen  many 
of  them  in  England,  I  iliall  only  give  you 
an  account  of  fome  of  its  particularities. 

This  animal  is  rather  {liy  than  fierce,  and 
v^ill  feldom  attack  a  man ;  on  the  contrary, 
they  will  fly  at  the  fight  of  him,  and  a  dog 
will  drive  them  a  great  way.  The  only 
time  they  are  dangerous  is  after  having  been 
w^ounded,  when  they  quit  the  hollow  trees 
they  have  refided  in  all  the  winter,  and  at 
the  time  of  rutting,  which  is  in  the  month 
of  July ;  they  are  then  fo  fierce  and  ill-tem- 
pered, the  effects  of  jealoufy,  that  they  are 
extremely  dangerous  to  meet  v/ith.  At  this 
feafon  they  grow  very  lean,  and  their  flefh 
hasfo  difagreeable  a  relifii,  that  the  Indians, 

whofe 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  239 

wliofe  ftomachs  are  none  of  the  mod  de- 
licate, will  not  touch  it.  Who  could  con- 
ceive that  an  animal,  fo  unlovely  in  its  ap- 
pearance, fhould  in  the  fpace  of  one  month 
grow  leaner  by  the  belle  pajion,  than  after 
an  abftinence  of  fix  months. 

But  the  feafon  over,  he  recovers  his  for- 
mer emhmipoint^  which  he  is  greatly  aflifled 
in  regaining  by  the  great  quantity  of  fruits 
the  woods  abound  with,  and  of  which  he 
is  extremely  greedy ;  grapes  he  is  paiticu- 
iarly  fond  of,  climbing  after  them  up  the 
mod  lofty  trees.  After  he  has  fed  for  fome 
time  on  fruits,  his  flefli  becomes  delicious, 
and  continues  'lo  till  fpring. 

It  is  furprizing  enough  that  this  animal, 
although  provided  with  fo  warm  a  fur, 
and  not  of  the  moil  delicate  appearance, 
(hauld  take  more  precautions  than  any 
other  to  preferve  itfelf  from  the  cold, 
(this  may  fervc  as  a  leflbn  from    nature, 

not 


240  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

not  to  form  our  judgment  of  things  by 
appearance,  fince  every  one  is  the  befh 
judge  of  his  own  wants  ;)  for  which  pur- 
pofe,  when  the  winter  fets  in,  he  climbs 
up  the  hollow  rotten  trunk  of  an  old  tree, 
ftopping  up  the  entrance  with  pine  branches, 
by  which  means  he  is  fheltered  from  all 
inclemencies  of  the  weather,  and  when 
once  lodged,  he  feldom  or  ever  quits  his 
apartment  during  the  winter,  which  is  the 
more  fmgular,  it  being  certain  that  he  lays 
up  no  manner  of  provifion,  and  that  he 
mufl  require  fome  nouriflnnent.  That  he 
requires  little  food  is  natural  to  fuppofe, 
as  at  the  end  of  autumn  he  is  very  fat, 
takes  no  exercife,  and  almoft  always  fleeps, 
and,  therefore,  lofnig  little  by  perlpiration, 
has  very  feldom  occafion  to  go  abroad 
in  queft  of  it,  and  when  he  does,  haftens 
back  to  his  retreat.  A  ridiculous  notion 
is  gone  abroad  into  the  world,  that  during 
the  winter  the  fole  nourilhment  of  the  Bear 
is  licking  its  paws,  which,  no  doubt,  arofe 

from 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  24 1 

fi:om  the  amazing  long  time  thefe  animals 
can,  either  through  the  nourifliment  they 
receive  from  fleep,  or  idlenefs,  go  without 
food.  Yet  that  fuch  an  idea  fliould  pre- 
vail, I  am  not  furprized,  as  there  has  been 
an  inftance  of  one  that  was  chained  for  a 
whole  winter  without  either  food  or  drink, 
and  at  the  end  of  fix  months  was  found 
as  fat  as  when  firft  caught. 

The  feafon  for  hunting  the  bear  is  in 
winter,  when  the  Indians  force  him  from 
his  habitation  by  fetting  fire  to  the  pine 
branches  that  he  has  drawn  together  at 
the  bottom  of  the  hollow  tree,  when  the 
fmoke  afcending  up  the  trunk,  drives 
him  from  his  late  comfortable  habitation, 
from  which  he  no  fooner  defcends,  than 
they  kill  him.  The  Indians  now  only 
deftroy  them  to  anfwer  their  own  wants, 
as  formerly  they  ufed  to  do  for  the  pur- 
pofe  of  difpofmg  of  their  fkins  to  the  tra- 
ders ;  but  it  was  no  fooner  underftood  that 

Vol.  I.  R  Canada 


242  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

Canada  was  flored  with  Beavers,  than  the 
favages,  urged  on  by  a  more  lucrative  in- 
tereft,  direfted  their  w^ar  againil  an  animal 
the  moll  harmlefs,  who  molefts  no  hving 
creature,  and  is  neither  carniverous  nor 
fanguinary.  This  is,  I  am  forry  to  obferve, 
become  an  object  of  man's  moil:  earnefl 
purfuit,  and  the  one  that  the  favages  hunt 
after  with  the  greateft  eagernefs  and  cruelty; 
a  circumftance  entirely  owing  to  the  un- 
merciful rapacioufnefs  which  luxury  has 
made  necefTaryin  ikins,  for  all  the  polifhed 
nations  of  Europe. 

This  animal  is  by  nature  adapted  for 
focial  life,  being  endowed  with  an  inftin6l 
in  the  prefei*vation  and  propagation  of  its 
fpecies  ;  it  is  generally  about  three  or  four 
feet  long,  moftly  weighing  from  forty  to 
fixty  pounds  j  the  hinder  feet  are  webbed, 
which  enables  it  to  fwim,  and  in  the  fore 
feet  the  toes  are  divided ;  its  tail  is  oval, 
very  flat,  and  covered  with  fcales ;  the  head 

refembles; 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  243 

refembles  that  of  a  rat,  in  which  are  four 
very  fharp  teeth,  with  thefe  it  will  gnaw 
through  trees  of  a  great  circumference. 

This  animal  is  divefted  of  turbulent 
paffions,  without  a  defire  of  doing  injury 
to  any  one,  free  from  craft,  fcarcely  de- 
fending itfelf,  unlefs  it  lives  in  fociety  ;  it 
never  bites,  except  when  caught,  and  as 
nature  has  not  fupplied  it  with  any  wea- 
pons of  defence,  by  a  natural  inflinct  as 
it  were,  it  forms  focieties,  and  has  va- 
rious contrivances  to  fecure  its  eafe,  with- 
out fighting,  and  to  live  without  com- 
mitting, or  fuftering  an  injury  j  although 
this  peaceable,  and  you  may  fay  almofl: 
tame  animal,  enters  into  fociety,  it  is  ne- 
verthelefs  independent,  every  want  being 
fupplied  by  itfelf,  and  therefore  it  is  a  (lave 
to  none.  It  will  not  ferve,  nor  does  it  pre- 
tend to  command,  every  care  feems  dire6led 
by  an  inftin6t,  that  at  the  fame  time,  as  it 
labors  for  the  general  good,  it  lives  for  itfelf 
R  2  alone. 


244  INTERIOR     I  R  A  V  E  L  S 

alone.  To  learn  the  nature  of  the  focieties 
of  thefe  animals,  as  it  was  related  to  me 
by  my  landlord,  may  afford  you  the  fame 
entertainment  it  did  me. 

In  the  month  of  June  or  July,  they 
affemble  from  all  quarters,  to  the  num- 
ber of  two  or  three  hundred,  near  fome 
lake  or  pool  of  water,  to  build  their 
habitations  againft  winter,  the  conftruc- 
tion  of  which,  from  the  complication  and 
manner  of  difpofmg  the  materials,  one 
would  be  led  to  imagine  to  be  beyond  the 
capacity  of  any  one  but  an  intelligent 
being,  and  efpecially  in  their  conftru6ling 
of  dams ,  when  they  cannot  meet  with  a 
lake  or  pool  -,  in  this  cafe  they  fix  upon 
fome  river,  when  the  firft  of  their  labour 
is  to  make  a  dam,  which  they  generally 
do  in  the  fliallowell  part  of  the  ftream, 
for  that  purpofe  feUing  trees  with  the  four 
fharp  teeth  that  I  have  already  defcribed ; 
five  or   fix    of    them  will  gnaw  a  large 

one 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  245 

one  through,    and   to  mark  to  you   the 
wonderful   lagacity  of    thefe    induftrious 
brutes,   they  contrive  it  fo  that  it  always 
falls  in  the  water :   having  laid  this  foun- 
dation, they  fell  fmaller  trees,  which  they 
roll  to  this  great  one,  but  what  appears  the 
moft  wonderful  is,  the  manner  they  fmk 
the  piles   in  the   water,    to    prevent  the 
flream's  carrying  away  the  trees,   they  lay 
acrofs.      Their  contrivance  is  this,   with 
their  nails  they  dig  a  hole  in  tlie  ground, 
or  at  the  bottom  of  the  water,  with  their 
teeth  they  reft  the  ftake  againft  the  bank 
of  the  river,  or  againft  the  tree  that  lies 
acrofs,  and  with  their  feet  they  raife  the 
flake  and  fmk  it  v.'ith  the  fliarp  end  (which 
thefe  fenfible  animals  make  to  it)  in  the 
hole  that  they  have  made,  where  it  ftands 
up;    and  to  render  thefe  ftakes  or  piles 
more  fecure,  they  interweave  branches  of 
fmall  trees,  and  with  their  tails  wiik  up 
a  kind  of  mortar  with  clay,  and  fill  the 
vacant  fpace  of  the   interwoven  branches. 
R  3  After 


246  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

After  this  work  is  finiflied  by  the  body  at 
large,  each  one  confiders  of  fome  lodging 
for  himfelf ;  an  hut  being  built  upon  piles 
on  the  fides  of  the  Lake,  capable  of  con^ 
taining  from  two  or  three  to  ten  or  fifteen, 
(for  they  divide  themfelves  into  compa- 
nies, and  build  thefe  huts  accordingly;) 
which  are  formed  with  walls  and  parti- 
tions of  about  two  feet  thick  and  as  many 
in  height,  arched  over,  and  the  whole 
fo  plaiftered  with  clay,  that  the  fmallell: 
breath  of  air  cannot  penetrate  through 
them;  each  apartment  is  made  large 
enough  to  contain  two,  a  male  and  fe- 
male; each  hut  has  two  entrances,  one 
towards  the  land,  and  the  other  on  the 
fide  towards  the  ftream,  the  former  for 
them  to  go  into  the  woods  to  fetch  pro- 
vifions,  and  the  latter  to  efcape  from  their 
enemy,  that  is  to  fay  man,  the  deflroyer 
of  cities  and  commonwealths.  The  infide  of 
their  apartments  has  no  other  furniture 
than  the  flooring  of  grafs  covered  with 

the 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  247 

the  boughs  of  the  fir,  and  thefe  animals 
are  fo  cleanly,  that  no  filth  of  any  kind 
is  ever  feen  in  thefe  apartments. 

In  each  hut  there  are  ilore  houfes  pro- 
portionate to  the  number  of  its  inhabitants j 
every  one  knov^s  its  own,  and  never  fteals 
from  his  neighbour.  Each  party,  that  is  to 
fay,  the  male  and  female,  live  in  their  own 
habitations;  they  have  no  jealoufies  or 
quarrels ;  the  provifions  of  the  community 
are  colle6led  and  expended  without  any 
conteil,  and  reft  fatisfied  with  the  fimple 
food  that  their  labors  procure  them.  The 
only  paflion  they  have  is  that  of  conjugal 
aiTe(5lion,  wherein  a  mod  excellent  ex- 
ample is  held  forth  to  that  all-wife  and  all- 
fufficient  man,  who  is  led  away  by  every 
guft  of  paflion  and  vanity. 

Two  of  thefe  animals,  in  the  courfe  of 

their  labours  in  the  fummer  months,  match 

together,   unite   by    inclination    and   re- 

R  4  ciprocal 


248  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

ciprocal  choice,  and  agree  to  pals  the 
whiter,  and  like  too  many  couple  who 
hafcily  enter  into  matrimony  with  equally 
as  good  motives,  but  forgetting  what 
fhould  make  the  happinefs  lading,  that 
of  laying  up  a  flock  to  guard  againfl  an 
inclement  feafon. 

The  happy  couple  retire  to  their  hut 
about  the  end  of  autumn,  which  has  been 
obferved  to  be  no  lefs  favorable  to  love  than 
fpring ;  for  if  the  feafon  of  flowers  invites 
the  feathered  tribe  to  propagate  in  the 
woods,  the  feafon  of  fruits  as  powerfully 
excites  the  inhabitants  of  the  earth  in  the 
reproduction  of  their  fpecies ;  befides,  as 
winter  gives  leifure  for  amorous  purfuits, 
it  compenfates  for  the  advantages  of  other 
feafon  s. 

1  am  this  moment  told  that  the  pacquet 
is  going  to  fail,  and  muft  therefore  defer 
a  further  account  of  this  v/onderful  and 

furprizing 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  249 

furprizing  animal,  from  whom  fo  many 
leiTons  of  induftiy  and  morality  may  be 
drawn,  till  another  opportunity,  and  con- 
clude with  alluring  you  of  my  beft  wifhes 
for  your  happinefs  and  profperity,  and  that 
-I  remain 


Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


250  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER         XXIII. 


Montrealy  June  %th,  1777. 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

I  SEND  this  by  our  friend  Captain  F. 
who  is  going  poft  to  Qiiebec,  from 
which  place  he  will  fail  immediately,  and 
as  the  navigation  from  this  city  to  Quebec 
is  much  delayed  by  the  various  currents 
and  other  caufes  in  the  river,  he  will  be 
there  as  foon,  if  not  fooner,  than  the 
fhip  I  fent  my  firll  by,  in  which  cafe  you 
may  receive  this  before  the  other,  which 
may  greatly  bewilder  you.  I  therefore 
ihall  juft  hint  to  you,  this  is  the  conclu- 
fion  of  the  hiflory  of  the  Beaver. 

If 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  251 

If  my  recolle^lion  does  not  deceive  me, 
1  left  off  in  my  laft  at  defcribing  his  love, 
that  univerfal  pafTion  of  nature,  which  the 
Beaver  feems  to  enjoy  in  the  conjugal  ftate, 
comparatively  much  happier  than  man- 
kind J  for  v\^hen  they  couple  and  enter  their 
huts,  they  never  quit  each  other,  confe- 
crating  their  whole  time  to  love,  from 
which  neither  labor  nor  any  other  obje6l 
can  divert  them. 

If  by  chance  a  fun-fhiny  day  fhould 
happen  to  enliven  the  gloomy  melancholy 
of  the  feafon,  the  happy  couple  leave  their 
huts  to  walk  on  the  borders  of  the  Lake, 
regahng  themfelves  with  fome  frefh  bark, 
and  breathing  the  falutary  exhalations  of 
the  eaith.  At  the  conclufion  of  the  win- 
ter, tlie  mother  brings  forth  the  endearing 
pledges  of  their  aiTedlion,  while  the  father 
ranges  the  woods,  allured  by  the  fweets  of 
the  fpring,  leaving  to  his  little  family 
that  portion  of  room  which  he  took  up  in 

his 


252  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

his  narrow  cell.  The  Beaver  generally 
produces  two  or  three,  which  the  mother 
fuckles,  nu'"fes  and  trains  up,  for  when  the 
father  is  abfent,  flie  takes  out  the  young 
ones,  in  her  excurfions  for  cray  and  other 
fidi,  and  green  bark  to  recruit  her  own 
ilTength  and  to  feed  her  young,  till  the 
feafon  of  labor  returns ;  for  although  thefe 
animals  are  fo  induftrious  as  to  build  tliem- 
felves  habitations  that  would  laft  them  a 
century,  they  are  obliged  to  rebuild  them 
every  year,  as  the  firft  thing  the  traders  do 
when  they  meet  with  any  of  their  v/orks, 
is  to  break  down  their  cabins  and  the  dam, 
together  with  their  dyke. 

There  are  various  methods  of  taking  and 
deftroying  thefe  animmls,  by  draining  the 
water  from  their  dykes,  and  fometimes  by 
fnares ;  they  are  very  feidom  fnot  at,  for 
unlefs  killed  on  the  fpot,  they  are  ioll  to 
the  huntfrn^an,  by  plunging  ir-to  the  water 
wounded,  when  they  fmk  to  tlic  Iwttom 

and 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  253 

and  never  rife.  The  moft  certain  and  ge- 
neral mode  of  catching  them  is  by  fetting 
traps  in  the  woods,  where  they  perceive 
them  to  have  been  eating  the  bark  of  the 
young  trees ;  they  'bait  thefe  traps  with 
frefli  flips  of  wood,  which  the  Beaver  no 
fooner  touches,  than  a  great  weight  falls 
and  cruflies  its  loins,  when  the  huntfman, 
who  lies  concealed  near  the  fpot,  haflens 
to  kill  it. 

No  doubt  but  by  tliis  time  you  are 
heartily  tired  with  fo  long  a  detail  of  this 
animal ;  but  if  I  have  deviated  from  the 
Common  path  of  defcription,  I  can  only 
fay  it  has  proceeded  from  thefe  tv\^o  caufes, 
that  I  cannot  fafficiently  admire  the  many 
virtues  it  poffefies,  diverted  of  all  manner 
of  vice,  and  have  been  loft  in  the  contem- 
plation of  that  Divine  Being,  who  formed 
it  with  all  thefe  natural  endov/ments. 

You 


254  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

You  muft  pardon  my  maldng  a  compa- 
rifon  between  the  focieties  of  thefe  animals 
and  thofe  of  a  convent.  If  happinefs  may 
be  faid  to  dwell  in  both  communities,  it 
muft  be  allowed  to  be  by  very  oppofite 
means.  The  happinefs  of  one  confifts  in 
following  the  diftates  of  nature  j  in  the 
other,  nature,  the  fweets  of  focial  love,  and 
the  lav/s  of  our  creation,  are  totally  de- 
ftroyed  !  The  inftitution  of  the  fociety  of 
the  Beaver,  feems  folely  to  propagate  its 
fpecies  j  the  other  to  annihilate  it.  How 
many,  who  might  have  dignified  nature 
under  the  chara6ter  of  a  fond  mother  and 
an  affedlionate  v/ife,  are  loft  to  the  world 
and  to  themfelves ! — they  cannot  help  feel- 
ing tender  emotions,  and,  in  the  bitternefs 
of  mifery,  execrate  that  tyrant  cuftom, 
which  has  torn  them  from  the  embraces  of 
happinefs  and  chained  them  in  cells,  a  prey 
to  affeftions  hopelefs  and  infatiable — the 
idea  carries  me  beyond  myfclf. 

What 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  255 

What  will  not  the  feelings  of  humanity 
exclaim,  when  it  confiders  that  thefe 
gloomy  and  ferocious  inflitutions  are  waft- 
ing away  in  all  parts  of  Europe  1  Inftitu- 
tions  not  only  injurious  but  inhuman, 
^^'hich,  under  the  abfurd  and  ridiculous 
notion  of  making  men  equal  to  angels, 
robs  health  of  its  vigor,  and  beauty  of  its 
reward. 

I  am  mofi:  agreeably  interrupted  in  my 
ferious  reflections,  by  a  vifit  from  our 
friend  S — ,  who  is  juft  arrived  from  New- 
York  ;  he  was  taken  prifoner  in  the  courfc 
of  lad  fummer,  by  a  notorious  fellow  of 
the  name  of  Whitcomb,  the  fame  man  who 
fhot  Brigadier  General  Gordon,  the  paiti- 
culars  of  which  I  fhall  inform  you  in  my 
next. 

Yours,  Sec. 


LET- 


256  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER  XXIV, 


Montreal,  "jane  \2th,    17/7. 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 


T  N  my  lafl;  I  mentioned  to  you  the  name 
"*"  of  one  Whitcomb,  a  native  of  Connec- 
ticut, and  a  great  parti z an  of  the  Ameri- 
cans, who,  after  the  defeat  upon  the  Lakes, 
offered  his  fervice  to  venture  through  the 
v^oods,  and  bring  in  prifoner  an  Englifli 
officer,  for  which  purpofe  he  ftationed  him- 
felf  among  the  thickeft  copfes  that  are  be- 
tween La  Praire  and  St.  John's.  The  firfl 
officer  who  happened  to  pafs  him  was 
Brigadier  General  Gordon  j  he  was  mount- 
ed on  a  fpirited   horfe,   and    Whitcomb 


thinking 


TttROUGM     AlVf^ERICA.  257 

thinking  there  was  little  probability  of 
feizing  him,  fired  at  and  wounded  him  in 
the  fhoulder.  The  General  immediately 
rode  as  faft  as  he  could  to  the  camp  at  St. 
John's,  which  he  had  but  jufl  reached, 
when  with  lofs  of  blood  and  fatigue,  he 
fell  from  his  horfe^  fome  foldiers,  took 
him  up  and  carried  him  to  the  hofpital, 
where,  after  his  wound  was  drefTed,  and 
he  was  a  little  at  eafe,  he  related  the  cir- 
cumftance,  which  being  immediately  made 
known  to  General  Carleton,  a  party  of 
Indians  were  fent  out  to  fcour  the  woods,' 
and  fearch  for  Whitcomb,  but  in  vain, '  as' 
he  hailened  back  to  Ticonderoga.  General 
Carleton,  however,  irriagining  he  might  be 
lurking  about  the  woods,  or  fecreted  in 
the  houfe  of  fome  difaffefted  Canadian, 
ifTued  out  a  proclamation  among  the  inha- 
bitants, offering  a  reward  of  fifty  guineas 
to  any  one  that  would  bring  Whitcomb, 
alive  or  dead,  to  the  camp. 

Vol.  I.  S  A  few 


258  INTERIOR     TRAVELS     - 

A  few  days  after  this  General  Gordon 
died  of  his  wound,  in  whofe  death  we  fm- 
cerely  lamented  the  lofs  of  a  brave  and  ex- 
perienced officer. 

When  Whitcomb  returned  to  Ticonde- 
roga,  and  informed  the  General  who  com- 
manded there,  that  although  he  could  not 
take  an  officer  prifoner,  he  believed  he  had 
mortally  -  wounded  one,  the  General  ex- 
prefTed  his  difapprobation  in  the  highefl 
terms,  and  was  fo  much  difpleafed  at  the 
tranfaftion,  that  Whitcomb,  in  order  to 
effect  a  reconciliation,  offered  his  fervice  to 
go  again,  profeffing  he  would  forfeit  his 
life,  if  he  did  not  return  with  a  prifoner. 

He  accordingly,  with  two  other  men, 
proceeded  down  Lake  Champlain,  in  a  canoe,  - 
to  a  fmall  creek,  where  they  fecreted  it, 
and  repaired  to  the  woods,  to  the  fame 
fpot  where  Whitcomb  had  Rationed  himfelf 
before  j  the  two  men  lay  concealed  a  little 

way 


THRO'UC^    AMERICA.  259 

way  in  the  wood,  whilft  he  Ikulked  about 
the  borders  of  it. 

The  redment  of  which  our  friend  S — 
is  Quarter-mafter,  having  occafion  for 
fome  ftores  from  Montreal,  he  was  going 
from  the  campt  at  St.  John's  to  procure 
them ;  he  was  advifed  not  to  go  this  road, 
but  by  way  of  Chamblee,  on  account  of 
the  late  accident,  but  you  know  him  to  be 
a  man  of  great  bravery  and  perfonal  cou- 
rage, joined  with  uncommon  llrength ; 
refolving  not  to  go  fo  many  miles  out  of 
his  road  for  any  Whitcomb  whatever,  he 
jocofely  added,  that  he  fhould  be  very  glad 
to  meet  with  him,  as  he  was  fure  he  fhould 
get  the  reward ;  in  this,  however,  he  was 
greatly  miftaken,  his  reward  being  noother 
than  that  of  being  taken  prifoner  himfelf. 

Previous  to  his  fetting  out  he  took  eveiy 

precaution,   having    not  only   loaded  his 

fufee,  but  charged  a  brace  of  piflols  ,  when 

S  2  he 


26o  I>jTERIOR     't'RAVELb 

he  came  near  to  the  woods  I  have  ah'eady 
fcribed,  he  was  very  cautious,  but  in  an 
inllant,  Whitcomb  and  the  two  men  he 
had  with  him  fprung  from  behind  a  thick 
bufli,  and  feized  him  before  he  could  make 
the  leaft  refinance  j  they  then  took  from 
him  his  fufee  and  piftols,  tied  his  arms  be- 
hind him  with  ropes,  and  bhnd-folded  him. 

It  was  three  days  before  they  reached  thp 
canoe  that  had  been  concealed,  during  which 
time  they  had  but  very  fcanty  fare;  a  few 
hard  bifcuits  ferved  to  allay  hunger,  while 
the  fruit  of  the  woods  was  a  luxury ! — 
When  Whitcomb  had  marched  him  to  fuch 
a  diftance  as  he  thought  he  could  not  make 
his  efcape,  were  he  at  liberty,  through  fear 
of  lofmg  himfelf,  for  the  greater  eafe  on 
his  own  part,  and  to  facilitate  their  march, 
they  untied  his  hands,  and  took  the  cloth 
from  his  eyes.  Only  pifture  to  yourfelf 
what  muil  have  been  his  feelings,  at  feeing 
himfelf  in  the  midft  of  a  thick  wood,  fur- 
rounded; 


THROUGTH     AMERICA.  26 1 

rounded  by  three  defperate  fellows,    and 
uncertain  as  to  their  intentions  ! 

At  night,  when  they  had  partaken  of 
their  fcanty  pittance,  two  out  of  the  three 
ufed  to  Deep,  whilft  the  other  kept  watch. 
The  firft  night  he  flept  through  fatigue ; 
on  the  fecond,  as  you  may  naturally  fup- 
pofe,  from  his  great  anxiety  of  mind,  he 
could  not  clofe  his  eyes,  in  the  middle  of 
which  an  opportunity  occurred  whereby 
he  could  have  effected  his  efcape,  for  the 
man  whofe  watch  it  was,    fell  faft  afleep. 
He  has  fnice  told  me  how  his  mind  waver- 
ed for  a  length  of  time,  what  meafures  to 
purfue  ;  he  could  not  bear  the  idea  of  put- 
ting them  to  death,  though  juiiified  by  the 
rules  of  war:    if  he  efcaped  from  them, 
they  might  in  all  probability  retake  and 
ill-treat  him.     The  great  hazard  of  all, 
which  determined  him  to  abide  by  his  fate 
was,  that  by  being  fo  many  miles  in  a  tracl 
of  wood,  where  he  could  not  tell  what 
S  3  direction 


262  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

direction  to  take  (having  been  blind-folded 
v^hen  he  entered  it)  he  might  poffibly  wan- 
der up  and  down  till  he  perifhed  with  hun- 
ger. In  this  refllefs  Hate,  he  reniained 
till  day-break,  when  they  refumed  their 
march,  and  in  the  evening  came  to  the 
creek  where  the  canoe  was  concealed ,  they 
then  fecured  him  again,  put  him  in  the 
canoe,  and  proceeded  up  the  lake  to  Ti- 
conderoga,  where  they  arrived  early  the 
next  morning.  When  they  landed  him 
he  was  again  blind-folded,  that  he  might 
not  fee  their  works,  and  thus  conduced  to 
the  General,  whofe  only  motive  for  en- 
deavouring to  get  an  officer  was,  either  by 
threats  or  intreaties,  to  gain  inform.ation 
relative  to  our  army.  In  this,  however,  he 
was  greatly  difappointed,  and  as  he  could 
not  obtain  the  leaft  intelligence  from  our 
friend,  he  ordered  him  as  prifoner  of  war 
upon  his  parole,  to  fome  of  the  interior 
towns,  from  which  place,  as  I  informed 
you  in  my  laft,  he  is  juil    returned,  as 

hearty 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  263 

hearty  and  well  as  ever.  I  fliould  not  have 
dwelt  To  long  on  this  fubjeft,  but  knowing 
you  have  his  welfare  fo  much  at  heart,  that 
you  feel  yourfelf  interefled  in  whatever 
concerns  him. 

I  fliall  now  conclude,  but  before  I  do  fo, 
let  me  congratulate  you  on  the  recovery  of 
your  health,  after  fo  alarming  an  illnefs. 
Good  health  alone  fweetens  life,  and  that 
you  may  long  enjoy  it,  both  for  your  own 
fake  and  that  of  your  friends,  is  the  ardent 
wilh  of 


Yours,  &c.  ' 

•1  iOii  i' 


S4  LET- 


264  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 


■  i 

LETTER        XXY.   ■  . 

Camp  at  St,  "John's,  June  \^h,  I'JJJ' 

'.  ivy'  'y\       ,.:}'r :  'fo' ■  ; .  :  . 

MY  DEAR  FRIENofl    artol"^ 

I  HAD  fcarcdy  finifbed  my  laft,  when 
I  received  orders  to  march  to  this  place, 
and  am  now^  entering  upon  the  hurry  and 
buftle  of  an  a6live  campaign.  You  muft 
not  accufe  nae  now  of  inattention,  if  you 
fhould  not  hear  from  me  fo  frequently. 

As  I  obferved  in  a  former  letter,  it  was 
the  general  opinion  the  King's  troops 
would  not  be  prevented  pafTmg  Lake  Cham- 
flain,  but  wait  our  arrival  at  Ticonderoga , 
in  that  cafe  the  operations  of  the  campaign 

will 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  265 

will  commence  at  Crown  Point.  It  would 
be  doing  great  injuftice  to  thofe  who  have 
been  ftationed  at  this  garrifon  during  the 
winter,  if  I  omitted  to  mention  their  great 
exertions  in  repairing,  augmenting,  and 
renderins:  fit  for  immediate  fervice  the 
battemix,  gun-boats,  and  armed  vefTels. 
The  other  parts  of  the  army  have  been 
equally  as  induftrious  in  eflablifhing  ma- 
gazines at  Montreal,  Sorell  and  Cham- 
bUe,  which  muft  be  effefted  during  the 
froft,  not  only  as  the  conveyance  is  eafier 
at  that  time,  but  on  account  of  the  roads, 
which,  by  the  running  and  melting  of  the 
fnow,  are  generally  impaffable  for  fome 
months. 

By  all  the  accounts  that  can  be  colle6led, 
the  Americans  ai'e  in  great  force  at  Ticon- 
deroga,  nearly  to  the  amount  of  12,000, 
and  a  confiderable  number  occupy  Lake 
George,  fuftained  by  a  great  naval  power, 
with  a  view,  no  doubt,  of  fecuring  their 

retreat 


266  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

in  cafe  they  fhould  be  obliged  to  abandon 
Ticonderoga. 

Should  the  navigation  of  Lake  Champlain 
be  fecured  by  the  fuperiority  of  our  naval 
force,  the  advanced  corps,  under  the  com- 
mand of  General  Frafer,  with  a  large  body' 
of  favages  and  Canadians,  for  fcouts  and 
out- works,  and  the  beft  of  our  engineers 
and  artificers,  are  to  take  poflefTion  of 
Crown  Point,  and  to  fortify  it.  The  in- 
tention is  with  a  view  to  prevent  infult 
from  the  enemy,  during  the  time  neceflary 
for  colle6ling  ftores,  forming  magazines 
and  fortifying  pofts,  all  which  muft  be  ac- 
complifhed  previous  to  our  proceeding  in 
force  to  lay  fiege  to  Ticonderoga. 

This  brigade  being  flationed  at  Crown 
Point,  as  a  check  on  the  enemy,  the  reft  of 
the  army  are  to  be  employed  in  forwarding 
the  convoys  and  tranfports  of  provifions, 
removing  artillery,  preparing  fafcines  and 

other 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  267 

Other  neceflaries  for  aitillery  operations, 
and  to  commence  the  fiege  j  and  that  the 
enemy  during  that  period  may  not  reft  in 
tranquilHty,  corps  of  favages,  fupported  by 
detachments  of  the  light  infantry,  are  to 
keep  them  in  continual  alarm  within  their 
works,  at  the  fame  time  to  cover  recon- 
noitering  parties,  both  of  general  officers 
and  engineers,  and  to  obtain  the  beft  in- 
telligence of  their  ftrength,  pofition  and 
defign.  From  the  great  preparations  that 
have  been  made  during  the  v/inter,  and  by 
the  vigorous  exertion  of  the  troops,  who 
are  in  great  healtli  and  fpirits,  it  may  rea- 
fonably  be  expefted  that  the  reduction  of 
Ticonderoga  will  be  early  in  the  fummer, 
unlefs  fome  misfortune,  human  prudence 
cannot  forefee,  fliould  prevent  it,  although 
it  is  the  general  opinion  it  v/ill  be  warmly 
contefted,  and  that  there  will  be  much 
blood-ftied.  The  Americans,  when  they 
drew  the  fword,  muft  have  forefeen  a  bloody 
conteft,  and  expected  all  the  horrors  of  a 

'    war, 


268  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

war,  carried  on  as  it  were  in  their  own 
bofoms,  laying  wafte  their  fields  of  haf^ 
veft,  deftroying  every  comfort,  and  intro- 
ducing every  mifery  mankind  is  capable  of 
devifing.  But  had  certain  perfons,  who 
were  a6luated  by  no  other  motives  than  a 
welfare  and  profperity  to  both  countries, 
direfted  their  refolves,  they  would  have 
advifed  a  peaceable  fubmiffion  to  the  Mo- 
ther Country,  and  eafily  prevented  all  the 
horrors  of  a  civil  war.  America,  from 
a  number  of  aggregate  fortunate  circum- 
ilances,  by  flow  degrees,  had  arifen  to  a 
ftate  of  great  profperity,  and  the  power 
that  file  had  fixed  by  that  profperity,  bids 
fair  to  be  of  fome  duration,  yet,  in  my 
opinion,  not  to  fuch  a  degree  as  to  eftablifh 
her  independence  J  her  prefent  diflrefled 
fituation,  without  fome  other  favorable 
circumilance,  mufl  inevitably  prevent  the 
execution  of  that  idea.  I  am  fully  per- 
fuaded  in  my  own  mind,  had  they  but 
referved  their  ideas   of  independency  for 

half 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  269 

half  a  century  longer,  from  their  increafe 
of  population  and  wealth,  they  would  have 
fixed  it  without  much  difficulty,  or  even 
the  alTiftance  of  any  other  power,  and  thus 
become  the  firfl  nation  in  the  world.  In 
the  prefent  day,  if  they  attain  their  boafted 
end,  it  muft  be  by  the  arm  of  fome 
nation,  to  whom,  for  want  of  refources  to 
defray  the  expences  of  their  alliance,  (lie 
will  be  in  continual  broils  and  difputes, 
which  may  perhaps  finally  terminate  in  a 
total  fubjeclion,  and  that  abje6l  flavery  they 
fo  ridiculouily  pretend  to  dread  from  us. 
Should  this  be  the  cafe,  fhe  will  regret  the 
lofs  of  that  prote6lion  from  the  Mother 
Country,  fhe  is  now  treating  with  fo  much 
ingratitude.  Leaving  you  to  your  own  re- 
marks, for  no  doubt  you  will  fay,  "  a  foldier 
and  a  politician  1"  Ifliall  divert  your  atten- 
tion from  the  cabals  of  mankind,  to  the 
wonderful  productions  of  nature,  in  de- 
fcribing  to  you  a  little  animal  that  was 
brought  me  lately,  called  a  flying-fquirrel. 

This 


^-jO  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

This  animal  takes  its  name  from  being 
provided  with  a  ikin,  or  membrane,  which 
adheres  to  each  fide,  about  the  breadth  of 
tliree  inches,  extending  from  its  hind  to 
fore  feet,  where  it  is  conne6led  by  a  bony 
articulation ;  it  expands  this  membrane  like 
a  fail,  by  which  it  is  enabled  to  fly  from  one 
tree  to  another,  at.  a  great  diftance.     Moft 
fquirrels  will  jump  from  tree  to  tree,  when 
contiguous,  but  this  animal  will  fly  an  in- 
credible way.     Its   ikin  is  very  foft,  and 
of  a  beautiful  dark  grey,  with  eyes  large, 
black,    and  very  prominent ,   it  fomewhat 
differs  from  the  other  fquirrels  in  its  tafte, 
caring  little  for  nuts,  the  chief  and   fa- 
vorite food  being    the  frefli   tops  of  the 
birch.     This  little  animal  makes  its  bed  in 
a  very  curious  manner,  of  the  mofs  of  the 
fame  tree,    in  which   it  lies    as   it   were 
buried,  feldom  ftlrring  from  thence  in  the 
day  time,  unlefs  difturbed.     I  came  into 
poflefTion  of  it   from  a  little  drum-boy's 
going  up  a  tree  after  a  bird's   neft,  who 


per 


ceivmg 


THROUGH    AMERICA^  27I 

perceiving  it  lay  in  that  dormitory  ftate, 
feized  it  and  brought  it  to  me,  for  he 
had  heaid  that  I  was  making  a  collec- 
tion of  natural  curiofities.  By  the  bye,  I 
beg  you  will  inform  me,  in  yovir  next,  if 
you  received  fafe  the  little  colle6lion  I  fent 
you  from  Montreal.  I  have  added  this 
curious  animal,  and  one  of  another  fpecies, 
called  the  ground  fquirrel,  which  is  a  little 
larger  than  a  moufe,  and  moft  beautifully 
fpotted  like  a  fawn,  to  the  colle6lion  I  am 
now  making,  and  hope  they  will  be  confi- 
dered  as  tokens  of  friendfliip  from 


Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


272  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER         XXVI. 


Camp  at  Kinjer  Bouquet,  ?  cy- 
upon  Lake  Champlairti  \  ''  ' 


line  ziy  i777< 


MY  DEAR   FRIEND, 

'f  T|rE  have  proceeded  thus  far,  and, 
^  *  from  all  appearance,  fliall  traverfe 
the  remainder  of  our  w^ay  on  the  Lake, 
without  meeting  any  oppofition  from  the 
enemy,  their  defign  being,  as  I  before 
mentioned  to  .you,  todifputeTiconderoga; 
the  intelligence  from  different  fpies  and 
deferters  fully  confirm  us  in  this  opi- 
nion, who  report,  that  they  have  labored 
hard  to  ftrengthen,  and  mean  to  difpute 
it  mofl  vigoroufly.  They  are  now  build- 
ing row'gallies  at  Fort  George,  for  the 

defence 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  27.3 

defence  of  that   lake,  and  fortifying  the 
road  to  Skeneiboroudi. 


o 


It  feems  the  Congrefs  have  configned  to 
the  four  New  England  provinces,  as  they 
are  excellent  axe-men,  and  very  expeditious 
in  felling  of  trees,  the  tafk  of  fupplying 
men  and  provifion  to  oppofe  the  progrefs  * 
of  our  forces,  which  they  have  undertaken, 
upon  condition  of  being  exempt  from  fup- 
plying General  Wafliington's  army.  If 
that  really  is  the  cafe,  we  fhall  have  bufi- 
nefs  enough  upon  our  hands,  having  four 
of  the  moll  powerful  and  rebellious  pro- 
vinces to  deal  with  ;  they  have  this  advan- 
tage too,  that  upon  their  frontiers,  ihould 
any  difafter  befall  them,  it  can  be  fo  eafily 
recruited,  both  as  to  men  and  provifions. 

Having  proceeded  thus  far  up  the  lake> 
I  am  enabled  to  give  you  fome  account  of 
it,  efpecially  as  we  have  pafTed  the  broadefk 
part.     There  are  many  fmall  iHands  dif- 

VoL.  I.  T  perfed 


274  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

perfed  in  different  parts,  and  where  it  is 
•  widefl,  YOU  are  not  able  to  difcern  the 
oppofite  fliorej  there  are  feveral  planta- 
tions on  each  fide,  but  they  are  more 
numerous  on  the  fouth,  the  north  fide 
being  lofty  rocky  mountains.  It  abounds 
with  great  quantities  and  variety  of  fiih ; 
flurgeon,  black  bafs,  mafquenongez,  pike 
of  an  incredible  'fize,  and  many  others, 
among  which  is  a  cat-fifh,  which  is  about 
eighteen  inches  long,  of  a  brownifh  caff,, 
without  fcales,  having  a  large  round  head, 
refembling  that  of  a  cat's,  from  which  it 
derives  its  name  ;  they  have  on  their  heads 
protuberances  fimilar  to  the  horns  of  a 
fnail,  and  like  them  can  elevate  and  de- 
prefs  them  at  pleafure,  and  w^hen  fully 
extended,  are  about  two  inches  long ;  if  in 
liberating  one  of  thefe  fifn  from  the  hook, 
it  ftrikes  you  with  one  of  its  horns,  it 
leaves  an  unaccountable  and  unpleafant 
fenfation  on  the  part  affe6led  for  two  or 
three  days.     Its  fins  are  very  bony  and 


flronr- 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  275 

ilrong,  like  thofe  of  a  perch,  it  commonly 
weighs  about  five  or  fix  pounds ;  the 
flelh  is  fat  and  lufcious,  greatly  refembl- 
ing  the  flavor  of  an  eel. 

There  are  at  this  feafon  of  the  year  pro- 
digious flights  of  pigeons  crofling  the 
lake,  of  a  mofl:  beautiful  plumage,  and  in 
aftonifliing  quantities. 

Thefe  are  mofl  excellent  eating,  and 
that  you  may  form  fome  idea  as  to  their 
number,  at  one  of  our  encampments,  the 
men  for  one  day  wholly  fubfifled  on  them ; 
fatigued  with  their  flight  in  crofling  the 
lake,  they  alight  upon  the  firfl:  branch  they 
can  reach  to,  many  are  fo  weary  as  to  drop 
in  the  water,  and  are  eaflly  caught ;  tho(^> 
that  alight  upon  a  bough  being  unable  to 
fly  again,  the  foldiers  knock  down  with 
long  poles. 

T  2  During 


276  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

•f 

During  the  flights  of  thefe  pigeons, 
which  crofs  this  lake  into  Canada,  and 
are  continually  flying  about  in  large  flocks, 
the  Canadians  find  great  amufement  in 
fliooting  them,  which  they  do  after  a  very 
Angular  manner :  in  the  day  time  they  go 
into  the  woods,  and  make  ladders  by  the 
fide  of  the  tall  pines,  which  the  pigeons 
roofl:  on,  and  when  it  is  dark  they  creep 
foftly  under  and  fire  up  this  ladder,  killing 
them  in  great  abundance  j  they  then  fl:rike 
a  light,  and  firing  a  knot  of  the  pitch  pine, 
pick  up  thofe  they  have  killed,  and  the 
wounded  ones  that  are  unable  to  fly. — 
During  the  flights  of  thefe  pigeons,  which 
generally  lafl  three  weeks  or  a  month,  the 
lower  fort  of  Canadians  mofl:ly  fubfiil:  on 
them 

Now  I  am  upon  this  fubje6l,  it  reminds 
me  of  what  Monfieur  Blonde aux  was  conti- 
nually telling  me  of,  le  grand  plaifir  que 
j'aurai  qiiand  Vete   commencera  en  tiiant  les. 

totirtcs  'y 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  277 

tourtes'j  adding,  at  the  fame  time,  with 
great  pleafure,  amufement  que  k  Canadieii 
m?ne  beaticcup.  Howe\'€r,  as  to  the  num- 
bers he  ufed  ahvays  to  join  with  this 
obfeiTation,  I  generally  thought  my  good 
landlord  was  fetting  off  his  country  to  great 
advantage  by  dealing  in  the  marvellous, 
and  fliould  have  been  imprelled  with  tliat 
idea,  had  I  not  been  by  ocular  demonftra- 
tion  convinced  to  the  contraiy. 

Not  only  at  this  encampment,  but  like- 
wife  at  our  former  ones,  we  were  under 
the  neceflity  of  clearing  the  thick  under- 
wood, and  cutting,  down  the  fmall  trees 
before  we  could  encamp,  during  which 
time  you  are  almofl  devoured  with  the 
mufquitos,  that  fwarm  in  great  abundance, 
and  are  continually  pellering  you  till  the 
fires  are  lighted,  when  the  fmoke  imme- 
diately difperfes  them. 


T3  In 


278  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

In  clearing  the  woods  for  our  encamp- 
ment at  this  place,  a  very  favorite  dog  of 
Lord  Balcarres's,  of  the  Newfoundland 
treed,  had  a  moil  miraculous  efcape ;  in 
the  very  inftant  that  a  heavy  pine  tree  was 
falling,  the  dog  run  acrofs,  the  tree  fell, 
and  crufhed  the  poor  creature  into  the 
earth  j  in  this  fituation  every  affiftance  was 
given,  and  when  he  was  extricated,  he 
came  jumping  and  frifking  up  to  his  maf- 
ter,  to  the  furprize  of  every  one,  who 
naturally  imagined  the  creature  mull  have 
had  all  its  bones  broken,  for  when  the 
tree  fell,  it  fhook  the  earth  fome  dillance 
round.  The  prefervation  of  the  dog  is 
entirely  attributed  to  the  nature  of  the  foil, 
which  was  fandy  and  pliable.  I  need  not, 
add,  after  this  event,  how  much  his  Lord- 
fhip  prizes  his  favorite  dog  Batteaux. 

Two  miles  up  this  river  there  is  a  faw- 
mill,  and  a  fall  of  water,  where  there  is 
mofl  excellent  trout-fifhing.      You  who 

are 


THROUGH     AMERLCA.  279 

are  fo  fond  of  the  diverfion  of  angling, 
would  find  moil  excellent  fport  in  this 
country.  How  I  could  wifli  you  here, 
only  for  an  hour,  in  that  employment, 
that  I  might  have  the  happinefs,  for  that 
little  time,  of  converfmg  with  you,  to  afk 
you  a  thoufand  queflions,  to  hear  of  thofe 

who  are  dear  to  me,  to but  1  mufl  flop 

my  reflection  and  my  wiihes  together. 


Yours,  &c. 


T4  LET- 


sSo  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 


LETTER         XXVII. 


Camp  at  Rtver  Bouquet,  7  rr 

upon  Lane  Lhamplatn,  \^  t'    >  /  / 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 


1 


"^HIS  river  derives  its  name  from  a 
Colonel  Bouquet,  who  commanded 
an  expedition  againft  the  Indians,  whilft 
Canada  was  under  the  French  Government, 
as  at  this  place  he  had  a  converfation  with 
them  upon  a  treaty  of  peace.    . 

It  fhould  feem  as  if  it  was  the  deflined 
fpot  to  have  intercourfe  with  Indians,  for 
yefterday  General  Burgoyne  had  a  con- 
ference with  them ;  and  as  I  am  fenfible 
how  much  our  employing  Indians  in  this 

war 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  28 1 

war  is  reprobated  in  England,  I  (hall  give 
you  the  General's  fpeech,  and  their  anfwer, 
of  which  you  may  form  your  own  opinion. 
When  the  aflembly  were  met,  the  General 
thus  addrefTed  them,  by  means  of  an  inter- 
preter : 

"  Chiefs  and  JVarriors^ 

"  The  great  King,  our  common  father, 

*  and  the  patron  of  all  who  feek  and  de- 

*  ferve  his  prote6lion,  has  confidered  with 
'  fatisfaclion  the  general  conduft  of  the 

*  Indian   tribes,    from  the  beginning   of 

*  the  troubles  in  America.  Too  fagacious 
'  and  too  faithful  to  be  deluded  or  cor- 
'  rupted,  they  have  obferved  the  violated 
'  rights  of  the  parental  power  they  love, 
'  and  burned  to  vindicate  them.  A  few 
'  individuals  alone,  the  refufe  of  a  fmall 

*  tribe,  at  the  firft  were  led  aft  ray :  and 

*  the  mifreprefentations,  the  fpecious  al- 
'  lurements,  the  infidious  promifes,  and 

"  diverfified 


282  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

^^  diverfified  plots  in  which  the  rebels  are 
"  exerciled,  and  all  of  which  they  employed 
"  for  that  efFe6l,  have  ferved  only  in  the 
**  end  to  enhance  the  honor  of  the  tribes 
*^  in  general;,  by  demonflrating  to  the 
**  world  how  few  and  how  contemptible 
"  are  the  apoftates !  It  is  a  truth  known 
"  to  you  all,  thefe  pitiful  examples  except- 
"  ed  (and  they  have  probably  before  this 
"  day  hid  their  faces  in  fhame)  the  collec- 
"  tiye  voices  and  hands  of  the  Indian  tribes 
*-  oyer  this  vail:  continent,  are  on  the  fide 
"  of  juflice,  of  law,  and  the  King. 

"  The  rellraint  you  have  put  upon  your 
'*  refentment  in  waiting  the  King  your 
"  father's  call  to  arms,  the  hardefl  proof, 
"  I  am  perfuaded,  to  which  your  affection 
"  could  have  been  put,  is  another  mani- 
"  feft  and  affecting  mark  of  your  adher- 
"  ence  to  that  principle  of  ^connection  to 
"  which  you  were  always  fond  to  allude, 

and 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  283 

"  and  which  is  the  mutual  joy  and  the 
"  duty  of  the  parent  to  cheriili. 

"  The  clemency  of  your  father  has  been 
"  abufed,  the  offers  of  his  mercy  have 
**  been  defpifed,  and  his  farther  patience 
*'  would,  in  his  eyes,  become  culpable, 
"in  as  much  as  it  would  with-hold  re- 
*'  di'efs  from  the  moft  grievous  oppreflions 
"  in  the  provinces,  that  ever  difgraced 
**  the  hiftory  of  mankind.  It  therefore 
"  remains  for  me,  the  General  of  one  of 
"  his  Majefty's  armies,  and  in  this  council 
"  his  reprefentative,  to  releafe  you  from 
"  thofe  bonds  which  your  obedience  im- 
"  pofed — ^Warriors  you  are  free — ^go  forth 
**  in  might  and  valor  of  your  caufe — ftrike 
*'  at  the  common  enemies  of  Great  Britain 
"  and  America — difturbers  of  public  order, 
"  peace  and  happinefs,  deftroyers  of  com- 
"  merce,  parricides  of  ftate." 

.       The 


284,  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

The  General  then  dire6ting  their  atten- 
tions, by  pointing  to  the  officers,  both 
German  and  Britifh,  that  attended  this 
meeting,  proceeded  : 

"  The  circle  round  you,  the  chiefs  of 
"  his  Majelly's  European  forces,  and  of 
"  the  Princes  his  allies,  efteem  you  as 
"  brothers  in  the  war;  emulous  in  glory 
"  and  in  friendfhip,  we  will  endeavor  re- 
"  ciprocally  to  give  aiid  to  receive  ex- 
"  amples ;  we  know  how  to  value,  and 
"we  will  ft  rive  to  imitate  your  prefever- 
"  ance  in  enterprize  and  your  conflancy, 
"  to  refifl  hunger,  wearinefs  and  pain. 
"  Be  it  our  talk,  from  the  di6lates  of  our 
*'  religion,  the  laws  of  our  warfare,  and 
"  the  principles  and  interefl  of  our  policy, 
"  to  regulate  your  paffions  when  tliey  over- 
"  bear,  to  point  out  where  it  is  nobler  to 
"  fpare  than  to  revenge,  to  difcriminate 
•'  degrees  of  guilt,  to  fufpend  the  uplifted 
"  ftroke,  to  chaflife  and  not  to  deflroy. 

*'  This 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  285 

"  This  war  to  you  my  fiiends  Is  new ; 
"  upon  all  former  occafions,  in  taking 
"  the  field,  you  held  yourfelves  authorized 
"  to  deflroy  wherever  you  came,  becaufe 
"  every  where  you  found  an  enemy.  The 
*'  cafe  is  now  very  different. 

"  The  King  has  many  faithful  fubje^ls 
"  difperfed  in  the  provinces,  confequently 
"  you  have  many  brothers  there,  and  thefe 
"  people  are  more  to  be  pitied,  that  they 
"  are  perfecutcd  or  imprifoned  wherever 
"  they  are  difcovered  or  fufpefted,  and  to 
*'  diflemble,  to  a  generous  mind,  is  a  yet 
"  more  grievous  punifhment. 

"  Perfuaded  that  your  magnanimit)^  of 
"  charafter,  joined  to  your  principles  of 
•''  affeclion  to  the  King,  will  give  me  fuller 
"  controul  over  your  minds,  than  the  miii- 
*'  tary  rank  with  which  I  am  invefted.  I  en- 
"  join  your  m.oft  ferious  attention  to  the 
"  rules  which  I  hereby  proclaim  for  your 

"  invariable 


286  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

"  invariable  obfervation  during  the  earn- 
"  paign." 

After  anfwering,  Eto^' !  Etow  !  in  their 
language  fignifying  approbation,  they  ap- 
peared to  pay  very  great  attention  to  the 
interpreter,  eager  to  catch  the  General's 
inflru6lions. 

"  I  pofitively  forbid  blood-flied,  when 
"  you  are  not  oppofed  in  arms. 

"  Aged  men,  w^omen,  children  and  pri- 
"  foners,  muft  be  held  facred  from  the 
"  knife  or  hatchet,  even  in  the  time  of 
"  a6lual  confli6l. 

"  You  fhall  receive  compenfation  for 
"  the  prifoners  you  take,  but  you  fliall 
"  be  called  to  account  for  fcalps. 

"  In  conformity  and  indulgence  of  your 
**  cuftoms,  which  have  affixed  an  idea  of 

"  honor 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  287 

"  honor  to  fuch  badges  of  victory,  you 
"  fhall  be  allowed  to  take  the  fcalps  of  the 
"  dead,  when  killed  by  your  fire  and  in 
"  fair  oppofition ;  but  on  no  account,  or 
"  pretence,  or  fubtilty,  or  prevarication, 
"  are  they  to  be  taken  from  the  wounded, 
"  or  even  dying  ;  and  ftiil  lefs  pardonable, 
"  if  poflible,  will  it  be  held,  to  kill  men  in 
"  that  condition,  on  purpofe,  and  upon  a 
"  fuppofition  that  this  protection  to  the 
"  wounded  would  be  thereby  evaded. 

"  Bafc,  lurking  aflaffins,  incendiaries, 
"  ravagers  and  plunderers  of  the  country, 
"  to  whatever  army  they  may  belong,  fliall 
"  be  treated  with  lefs  refer ve  j  but  the  lati- 
"  tude  muft  be  given  you  by  order,  and  I 
"  mufl  be  the  judge  on  the  occafion. 

"  Should  the  enemy,  on  their  parts,  dare 
*'  to  countenance  a6ls  of  barbarity  towards 
"  thofe  who  may  fall  into  their  hands,  it 
"  fliall  be  yours  alfo  to  retaliate :  but  till 

"  this 


288  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

"  this  feverity  be  thus  compelled^  bear  im- 
"  moveable  in  your  hearts  this  foUd  maxim, 
"  (it  cannot  be  too  deeply  imprelTed)  that 
"  the  great  eflential  reward,  the  w^orthy 
"  fervice  of  your  alliance,  the  fmcerity  of 
"  your  zeal  to  the  King,  your  father  and 
"  never- failing  proteftor,  w^ill  be  examined 
•*  and  judged  upon  the  teft  only  of  your 
"  fteady  and  uniform  adherence  to  the 
*'  orders  and  counfels  of  thofe  to- whom 
"  his  Majefly  has  entrufted  the  direclion 
"  and  honor  of  his  arrhs." 

After  the  General  had  finifhed  his  fpeech, 
they  all  of  them  cried  out,  Etow  !  Etow ! 
EtGiv  !  and  after  remaining  fome  little  time 
in  confultation,  an  old  Chief  of  the  Iro- 
qubis  rofe  up^  and  made  the  following 
anfwer: 

"  I  (land  up  in  the  name  of  all  the  na- 
"  tions  prefent  to  affure  our  faUier,  that 
"  we  have  attentively  liilened  to  his  dif- 

"  courfe — 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  289 

*'  courfe — we  receive  you  as  our  father, 
"  becaufe  when  you  fpeak  we  hear  the  voice 
*'  of  our  great  father  beyond  the  great  lake. 

"  We  rejoice  in  the  approbation  you  have 
"exprefTed  of  our  behaviour. 

"  We  have  been  tried  and  tempted  by 
"  the  Boflonians  J  but  we  have  loved  our 
"  father,  and  our  hatchets  have  been 
"  fharpened  upon  our  afFe6lions. 

"  In  proof  of  the  fincerity  of  our  pro- 
"  feflions,  our  whole  villages,  able  to  go 
"  to  war,  are  come  forth.  The  old  and 
"  infirm,  our  infants  and  wives,  alone  re- 
"  main  at  home. 

"  With  one  common  afTent,  we  promife 
''  a  conflant  obedience  to  all  you  have 
"  ordered,  and  all  you  fhall  order,  and 
*'  may  the  father  of  days  give  you  many, 
"  and  fuccefs." 

Vol.  I.  U  After 


290  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

After  the  Chief  of  the  Iroqiiok  had 
iinifhed,  they  all  as  before  cried  out,  Etow  I 
Etow!  Etow!  and  the  meeting  broke  up. 

One  of  the  General's  Aid-de-Camps  in- 
formed me,,  that  the  General  was  highly 
pleafed  to  find  the  Indians  fo  tradable, 
hoping  the  elTential  fervice  to  be  expetSled, 
would  be  obtained  in  employing  them. 
It  is  through  the  fricndfhip  of  Captain 
*  *  *  *,  who  took  the  fpeeches  down,  that 
I  am  enabled  to  fend  them  to  you. 

Orders  being  given  that  the  army  is  to 
embark  to-morrow  at  day-break,  to  pro- 
ceed up  the  lake,  and  having  many  things 
to  adjud,  I  hope  you  will  pardon  my  mak- 
ing a  hafty  conclufion,  and  remain, 

Yours,  &<:. 


LET- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  2gt 


LETTER        XXVIII. 


Caff!p  at  Button-Mok'Bay y  }  ~  ^__ 

upon  Lake  Lhamplaitiy      )  "^  t»    / '  / 


-MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

AFTER  the  meeting  of  the  Indians 
at  river  Bouquet,  the  General  order- 
ed them  feme  Uquor,  and  they  had  a  war- 
dance,  in  which  they  throw  themfelves'in 
various  polhires,  every  now  and  then  mak- 
ing moil  hideous  yells  j  as  to  their  appear- 
ance, nothing  more  horrid  can  you  paint 
to  your  imagination,  being  drefTed  in  fuch 
an  outre  manner,  fome  with  the  fkins  of 
bulls  with  the  horns  upon  their  heads, 
others  with  a  great  quantity  of  feathers, 
and  many  in.  a.  flate  of  total  nudity :  there 

U  2  wis 


'292        •     INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

was  one  among  them  at  whofe  modefly  I 
cotild  not  help  fmiling,  and  who,  rather 
than  be  divefted  of  any  covering,  had  tied 
a  blackbird  before  him.  Joined  to  thefe 
ilrange  dreffes,  and  added  to  the  grotefque 
appearance,  they  paint  their  faces  of  va- 
rious colors,  with  a  view  to  infpire  an  ad- 
ditional horror.  It  is  almoft  incredible  to 
think  what  a  prodigious  degree  of  conceit 
and  foppery  reigns  amongll  the  favages  in 
decorating  their  perfons,  perhaps  not  in- 
ferior to  that  by  which  alpne  fome  of  our 
pretty  fellows  of  the  prefent  age  fo  confpi- 
cuoufly  diftinguifh  themfelves.  The  fol- 
lowing ftriking  inftance  of  it,  feveral  other 
officers,  as  well  as  myfelf,  were  eye-witnefles 
to,  and  it  afforded  us  no  fmall  entertain- 
ment: 

in  our  way  to  their  encampment,  we 

.  obferved  a  young  Indian  who  was  preparing 

for  the  war-dance,  feated  under  a  ivigir^^m, 

with  a  fmall  looking-glafs  placed  before 

him. 


Tl!>llO-JGH    AMERICA.  293 

him,  and  furrounded  with  feveral  papers, 
filled  with  different  paints.     At  our  flop- 
ping to  obferve  him,  he  was  at  firft  a  little 
difconcerted,  and  appeared  difpleafed,  bat 
foon  after  proceeded  to  adorn  himfelf.     He 
firft  fineared  his  face  with  a  little  .bear's 
greafe,   then  rubbed  in  fome  vermillion, 
then  a  little  black,  blue,  and  green  paints, 
and  having  viewed  himfelf  for  fome 'time 
in  the  glafs,  in  a  rage  he  wiped  it  all  off, 
and  began  again,  but  with  "no  better  fuc- 
cefs,  flill  appearing  diflatisfied.     We  went 
on  to  the  council,  which  lafted  near  two 
hours,  and  on  our  return  found  the  In- 
dian in  the  fame  pofition,  and  at  the  fame 
employment,  having  nearly  confumed  all 
his  flock  of  colors !     What  a  pity  it  is  the 
ladies  in  England,  adepts  in  this  art,  have 
not  fuch  a  variety  of  tints  to  exercife  their 
genius  with '.---in  my  mind,  if  they  mufl 
paint,  the  more   ridiculous  they  appear, 
the  better. 

U  3  Bear's 


294  INTERIOR     TRAVifrLS 

Bear's  greafc,  indeed,  would  not  be  a 

very  delicate  perfume,  but  no  matter 

if  nature  muft  be  patched  up,  it  little  fig- 

nifies  with  what ! 1  could  laugh  at  the 

ftreaks  on  an  Indian,  but  am  flruck  with 
contempt  at  the  airs  put  on  by  your  flirts, 
from  a  penny-worth  of  carmine,  and 
touched  with  pity  ^h.tnfixty  would  aiTume 
the  glow  oiffteen^  through  a  falfe  fliame, 
or  a  childifh  want  of  admiration  ! 

An  Indian's  idea  of  war  confifiis  in  never 
fighting  in  an  open  field,  but  upon  fome 
very  extraordinary  occafion,  for  they  con- 
fider  this  method  as  unworthy  an  able 
warrior,  and  as  an  affair  in  which  fortune 
governs,  more  than  prudence  or  courage. 

They  are  of  elTential  fervice  in  either 
defending  or  invading  a  country,  being 
extremely  fkilful  in  the  art  of  furprizing, 
and  watching  the  motions  of  an  enemy. 


On 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  295 

On  a  fecret  expedition  they  light  no  fire 
to  warm  themfelves,  nor  prepare  their 
victuals,  but  fubfiil  merely  on  the  mifer- 
able  pittance  of  fome  of  their  meal  mixed 
with'  water ;  they  lie  clofe  to  the  ground 
all  day,  and  only  march  in  the  night  j 
while  halting  to  red  and  refrelh  themfelves, 
fcouts  are  fent  out  on  every  fide  to  recon- 
noitre the  country,  and  beat  up  every 
place  where  they  fufpeft  an  enemy  can  lie 
concealed.  Two  of  the  principal  things 
that  enable  them  to  find  out  their  enemies, 
is  the  fmoke  of  their  fires,  which  they  fmell 
at  a  vaft  diftance,  and  their  tracks,  in  the 
difcovery  and  diflinguifhing  of  which  they 
are  poflelTed  of  a  fagacity  equally  aflonifii- 
ing,  for  they  will  difcern  by  the  footfteps, 
that  to  us  would  appear  extremely  con- 
fufed,  nearly  the  number  of  men,  and  the 
length  of  time  fmce  they  pafTed  ;  this  latter 
circumllance  was  confirmed  to  me  by  an 
officer,  who  has  the  fuperintending  of 
their  tribes.     Being  out  upon  a  fcout  with 

them 


296  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

them,  they  difcerned  fome  footllieps,  when 
the  Indians  told  him  that  feven  or  eight 
people  had  paiTed  that  way,  and  that  only 
two  or  three  days  fmce:  they  had  not 
gone  far,  before  they  came  to  a  plantation 
with  a  houfe  upon  it,  and  as  is  the  cuftoni 
with  the  Indians,  ran  up  to  it,  and  fur- 
prized  a  fcouting  party  of  the  Americans, 
confifling  of  feven,  who  had  come  there 
the  over-night. 

In  travelling  through  the  woods,  they 
carefully  obferve  the  trees,  efpecially  the 
tall  pines,  which  are  for  the  moft  part  void 
of  foliage,  on  the  branches  that  are  expof- 
ed  to  the  north  wind,  the  trunk  .on  that 
fide  having  the  bark  extremely  rugged,  by 
which  they  afcertain  the  dire6lion  to  be 
taken  ;  and  for  the  more  eafy  difcovery  of 
their  way  back  again,  their  tomahawks  are 
continually  blazing  the  trees,  which  is 
cutting  off  a  fmall  piece  of  the  bark,  and 

as 


THROUGH    AMERICA.'  297 

as  they  march  along  they  break  down  the 
undei*wood. 

Every  Indian  is  a  hunter,  and  their  man- 
ner of  making  war  is  of  the  fame  nature, 
only  changing  the  obje6l,  by  fkulking,  fur- 
prizing  and  killing  thofe  of  their  own 
fpecies,  inftead  of  the  brute  creation. 

There  is  an  indifputable  neceflity  of  hav- 
ing Indians,  where  Indians  are  employed 
againil  you,  unlefs  we  had  men  enough  of 
our  own  trained  up  in  that  fort  of  military 
exercife,  as  our  European  difcipline  is  of 
little  avail  in  the  woods  againft  favages. 

The  reafon  of  my  dwelling  fo  much  on 
the  fubje6l  of  Indians,  is  becaufe  I  am  fen- 
fible  how  repugnant  it  is  to  the  feelings 
of  an  Englifhman  to  employ  them,  and 
how  much  their  cruelty  and  barbarity  has 
been  exaggerated. 

They 


29S  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

They  fight,  as  thofe  oppofed  againflthem 
fight ;  we  mull  ufe  the  fame  naeans  as  our 
enemies,  to  be  but  on  an  equal  footing 
with  them.  I  often  refle6l  on  that  laconic 
fpeech  a  great  and  gallant  oihcer  made  to 
"his  men,  in.  the  lail  war,  previous  to  their 
going  to  battle,  "  there,  my  brave  lads, 
"  there's  the  enemy,  and,  by  God,  if  you 
"  do  not  kill  them,  they'll  kill  you." 

There  is  a  very  great  natural  curiofity 
upon  Lake  Champlain-y  I  am  led  to  ima- 
gine that  it  was  originally  two  lakes. 
About  the  center  of  it  the  land  contrails 
to  fuch  a  degree,  that  it  appears  as  if  the 
rock  had  been  feparated  by  an  earthquake ; 
the  palTage  between  v/hat  are  now  two 
rocks,  was  but  juil  wide  enough  for  our 
large  fliips  to  pafs  through,  and  that  only 
with  a  fair  wind,  on  account  of  the  cur- 
rent. You'll  allow  the  place  to  be  very 
juflly  named  Split-Rock. 

This 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  299 

This  bay,  where  our  prefent  encamp- 
ment is,  lies  on  the  fouth  fide  of  the  lake» 
and  derives  its  name  from  the  pebbles,  of 
which  great  abundance  are  thrown  up  on 
the  fhores,  the  exa6l  form  of  a  button- 
mould,  and  where  thofe  of  wood  or  horn 
could  not  be  procured,  would  be  no  bad 
fubftitute. 

Juft  before  we  entered  this  bay,  there 
came  on  a  moft  violent  and  unexpe61:ed 
fquall,  occafioned  by  the  land  winds  blow- 
ing from  the  top  of  the  high  mountains 
on  the  north  fide  of  the  lakej  it  was  but 
of  fhort  duration,  but  very  terrible  while  it 
lafled.  You  will  form  fome  idea  how 
powerful,  and  with  what  violence  it  blows 
from  thefe  mountains,  from  the  following 
circumflance :  A  fmall  brig  belonging  to 
the  fleet,  with  veiy  httle  fail,  was  in  an 
inftant  laid  flat  on  her  fide,  and  the  crew 
were  obliged  to  cut  away  the  mafls,  to 
make  her  rife  again.     The  lake  was  vaftly 

agitated, 


30O  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

agitated,  you  may  eafily  judge  how  very 
dangerous  it  muil  have  been  to  the  fmall 
hatteaiix,  which  are  conftru6led  with  flat 
bottoms,  ^nd  quite  ungovernable  when  it 
blows  hard.  Though  the  men  who  rowed 
the  batteaux  in  which  I  was  were  conti- 
nually relieved,  it  was  with  much  difficulty 
they  could  bring  her  into  this  bay,  their 
ilrength  being  almoffc  exhaufted.  However, 
the  whole  brigade  got  fafe,  except  two 
batteaux  that  were  fwamped  juft  as  they 
got  clofe  in  fliore,  but  as  it  was  not  out  of 
a  man's  depth,  no  lives  were  loft. 

During  this  ftorm  I  dreaded  much  for 
the  fate  of  the  Indians  in  their  birch  ca- 
noes, whom  I  thought  muft  have  inevitably 
been  funk;  upon  refle6lion,  indeed,  they 
did  not  feem  to  be  in  fuch  perfonal  dan- 
ger, as  both  male  and  female,  above  the 
ftate  of  infancy,  are  eternally  in  the  water ; 
to  the  furprize  of  every  one,  however,  their 
canoes  rofe  to  every  wave,  and  floated  like 

a  cork. 


THROUGH    AMERICA."  30I 

a  cork,  which  muft  be  entirely  owing  to 
the  lightnefs  of  their  conflru^lion ;  this 
lightneis  obHged  them  to  remain  fome  time 
upon  the  lake  after  we  had  landed,  left  the 
waves  fliould  dafti  their  canoes  againfl  the 
fliore  and  deftroy  them. 

I  omitted  to  mention  in  my  laft,  that  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  Bouquet  tliere  is  a 
fmall  ifland,  on  which  were  found  feveral 
young  fawns,  where  the  does  had  fwani 
acrofs  to  drop  them,  as  if  by  a  natural 
inftincl  fenfible  that  the  buck  would  de- 
flroy  her  young.  A  foldier  of  the  com- 
pany, who  had  been  on  this  ifland,  got 
one,  which  he  prefented  to  his  Captain ; 
it  was  beautifully  marked,  and  fo  young, 
that  it  could  fcai'cely  walk  j  we  put  it  on 
board  the  batteanx,  but  during  the  florm 
it  was  waflied  overboard,  and  every  effort 
to  lave  it  proved  inefFe<fiual,  without  ha- 
zarding the  lives  of  thofe  in  the  batteaiix. 

Every 


302  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

Every  day,  as  Addifon  fays,  grows 

**  Big  with  the  fate  of  Cato  and  of  Rome." 

To-morrow  we  embark  from  this  place 
to  Crown  Point,  where  our  operations 
commence  againfl:  the  enemy.  Reft  allured 
I  fliall  embrace  every  opportunity  of  fend- 
ing you  the  particulars  of  our  proceeding. 


Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  303 


LET    T    E    R         XXIX. 


Camp  at  Crown  Point ^   ?'//«/' 30,  1777 


MV  DEAR   FRIEND, 

\KI  ^  ^^^  ^°^^'  within  fight  of  tlie 
*  '  enemy,  and  their  watch-boats  are 
continu;aily  rowing  about,  but  beyond  the 
reach  of  cannon  fhot.  Before  I  proceed 
farther,  let  me  juft  relate  in  what  manner 
the  ^riiny  pafTed  the  lake,  which  was  by 
brigades,  generally  advancing  from  feven- 
teen  to  twenty  miles  a  day,  and  regulated 
in  fuch  a  manner,  that  the  fecond  brigade 
iliould  take  the  encampment  of  the  iirfl, 
and  -ib  on  fuccclTively,  -for  each  brigade  te 

fill 


304  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

fill  the  ground  the  other  quitted  ^  the  time 
for  departure  was  always  at  day-break. 

One  thing  appeared  to  me  very  fingular, 
which  I  am  not  philofopher  enough  to 
account  for ;  in  failing  up  the  lake,  on  all 
the  iflands  and  points  of  land,  the  water 
feemed  to  feparate  the  trees  from  the 
land,  and  to  pafs  in  a  manner  through 
them,  having  the  appearance  of  fmall 
brufh  wood,  at  a  very  little  heighth  from 
the  water ;  nor  do  the  trees  appear  to  come 
in  contafl  with  the  land,  till  you  approach 
within  two  or  three  miles  of  the  obje6l, 
when  they  fliow  themfelves  to  ^be;  ;diftin6lly 
joined.  - :?  '^• 

I  cannot  forbear  picturing  to  your  ima- 
gination one  of  the  moil:  pleafing  fpectacles 
I  ever  beheld.  When  we  were  in  the 
wideft  part  of  the  lake,  whofe  beauty  and 
extent  I  have  already  defcribed,  it  was  re- 
markably fine  and  clear,    not   a  breeze 

flirring, 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  305 

ftirring,  when  the  whole  army  appeared 
at  one  view  in  fuch  perfe6l  regularity,  as 
to  form  the  moft  compleat  and  fplendid 
regatta  you  can  pofTibly  conceive.  A  fight 
fo  novel  and  pleafmg,  could  not  fail  of 
fixing  the  admiration  and  attention  of 
every  one  prefent. 

In  the  front,  the  Indians  went  with 
their  birch  canoes,  containing  twenty  or 
thirty  in  each,  then  the  advanced  corps  in 
a  regular  line,  with  the  gun-boats,  then 
followed  the  Royal  George  and  Inflexible, 
towing  large  booms,  which  are  to  be 
thrown  acrofs  two  points  of  land,  with 
the  other  brigs  and  iloops  following  j  after 
them  the  firft  brigade  in  a  regular  line, 
then  the  Generals  Burgoyne,  Phillips, 
and  Reidefel  in  their  pinnaces  j  next  to 
them  were  the  fecond  brigade,  followed 
by  the  German  brigades,  and  the  rear  was 
brought  up  with  the  futlers  and  followers 
of  the  army.  Upon  the  appearance  of  fo 
Vol.  I.  X  for- 


306  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

formidable  a  fleet,  you  may  imagine  they 
were  not  a  little  difmayed  at  Ticonderoga, 
for  they  were  apprized  of  our  advance,  as 
we  every  day  could  fee  their  watch-boats. 
We  had,  it  is  certain,  a  very  ftrong  naval 
force,  but  yet  it  might  have  been  greatly 
in  the  power  of  the  Americans  to  have 
prevented  our  palling  the  lake  fo  rapidly 
as  we  have  done,  efpecially  as  there  are 
certain  parts  of  it  where  a  few  armed  vef- 
fels  might  have  flopped  us  for  fome  time : 
but  it  is  an  invariable  maxim  with  the 
Americans,  of  which  there  are  numberlefs 
inftances  in  the  lafl  campaign,  never  to 
face  an  enemy  but  with  very  fuperior  ad- 
vantages, and  the  moil  evident  figns  and 
profpe6ls  of  fuccefs. 

The  army  is  now  afiembling  in  order  to 
•commence  the  fiege,  as  foon  as  the  artillery 
llores  arrive  from  Canada,  which  are  daily 
expelled.  People  in  England,  whole  ra- 
pidity of  ideas  keep  pace  with  their  good 

wilhes, 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  307 

wifhes,  little  imagine  that  the  diftance 
from  this  place  to  Canada  is  ninety  miles, 
therefore  the  time  it  takes  to  bring  forward 
ftores  is  necefi'arily  confiderable.  To  the 
great  praife  of  General  Carleton,  however, 
very  little  delay  has  yet  occurred,  for  he 
forwards  the  ftores  very  expeditioufly,  and 
however  ill-treated  many  people  fuppofe 
he  is,  or  however  he  may  conceive  himfelf 
fo,  in  not  having  the  command  of  this 
army,  after  being  the  commander  in  the 
lafl  campaign,  he  lets  no  pique  or  ill-will 
divert  him  from  doing  all  the  real  fervice 
in  his  power  to  his  King  and  country. 

In  a  former  letter  I  mentioned,  that  we 
were  to  intrench  at  this  place :  but  how- 
ever meafures  may  be  concerted  with  the 
utmoft  judgment  and  precaution  for  fuc- 
ceeding,  yet  when  an  army  has  advanced 
to  the  place  they  are  to  inveil,  the  General 
is  often  convinced,  that  neither  the  defcrip- 
tion  of  others,  nor  the  delineation  of  maps 
X  2  and 


308  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

and  charts  have  been  fo  perfedl  in  eveiy 
particular,  as  not  to  make  fome  change  in 
the  intended  difpofitions  necefTary,  which 
is  exa6ily  our  prefent  fituation,  as  orders 
are  given  out  for  us  to  embark  to-morrow. 
What  wtII  be  the  future  operations  of  the 
army,  after  the  redu6lion  of  Ticonderoga, 
it  is  impoffible  to  fay,  but  fome  vigorous 
meafures,  no  doubt,  are  to  be  purfued,  as 
an  extra6t  from  the  General's  orders  will 
point  out  to  you.  It  is  generally  believed, 
however,  that  the  army  is  to  force  its  way 
into  Albany.     The  extra<5t  is  as  follows : 

"  This  army  embarks  to-morrow  to  ap- 
'  proach  the  enemy.  The  fervices  re- 
'  quired  of  this  particular  expedition,  are 
'  critical  and  confpicuous.  During  our 
'  progrefs  occafions  may  occur,  in  which 
'  nor  difficulty,  nor  labor,  nor  life  are  to 
'  be  regarded.  This  army  muft  not  re- 
'  treat."  From  the  laft  fentence,  it  is  a 
general  and  fixed  opinion  throughout  the 

whole 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  309 

whole  army,  that  vigorous  exertions  are  to 
be  made  agdnft  any  oppoiition,  liowever 
fuperior,  we  may  encounter.  For  fuch  an 
expedition  the  army  are  in  the  beft  condi- 
tion that  can  be  expefted  or  wilhed,  the 
troops  in  the  higheft  fpirits,  admirably 
difciplined,  and  remarkably  healthy. 

I  omitted  to  mention,  that  fliortly  after 
the  confultation  with  the  Indians  at  the 
river  Bouquet,  the  General  iflued  out  a  ma- 
nifefto,  which  was  circulated  in  the  fron- 
tiers and  province  of  Connefticut,  calcu- 
lated to  fpread  terror  among  the  mofl  re- 
bellious, to  enforce  upon  their  minds  an 
impreflion  of  fear,  of  the  cruel  operations 
of  favages,  whom  he  now  could  reftrain, 
and  their  eagernefs  to  be  let  loofe  j  at  the 
fame  time,  in  the  moil:  expreilive  language, 
informing  them,  that  powerful  forces  were 
co-operating,  both  by  fea  and  land,  to 
crufli  this  unnatural  rebellion ;  inveighing 
ftrongly  on  the  conduct  of  the  prefent 
X  3  Cover- 


310  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

Governors  and  Governments  here  as  belns: 
the  caufe  of  its  continuance,  and  exhibit- 
ing, in  the  moil  hvely  manner,  their  in- 
juftice,  cruelty,  perfecution  and  tyranny; 
encouraging  thofe  whofe  difpofition  and 
abihties  v^ould  afTifl:  in  redeeming  theii' 
country  from  llavery,  and  re-eftabUlliing 
its  former  government ;  offering  prote6tion 
and  fecurity  to  thofe  who  continued  peace- 
able in  their  habitations,  and  denouncing 
all  the  calamities  and  outrages  of  war  to 
fuch  as  fhould  perfevere  in  hoflilities. 
How  far  it  may  operate  in  this  part  of  the 
continent,  I  have  my  fears,  as  the  New- 
England  Provinces  are  the  moil  violent  in 
their  principles  of  rebellion. 

During  our  ilay  at  this  place,  which  has 
been  only  three  days,  the  rear  of  the  army 
is  come  up,  and  the  magazines  and  hof- 
pitals  are  eflablifhed,  therefore  the  opera- 
tions againil  Ticonderoga  will  immediately 
commence. 

I  am 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  3II 

I  am  truly  fenfible  how  averfe  you  were 
to  my  entering  the  army,  but  when  once 
immerged,  it  would  be  folly  in  the  extreme 
to  fay,  that  I  wifhed  to  retract.  Although 
I  am  not  an  enthufiafl  in  religion,  flill  you 
know  I  ever  held  in  the  greateft  veneration 
the  fupreme  Difpofer  of  Events,  and  am 
not  infenfible  of  his  prote6ling  hand,  a  fol- 
dier  has  many  hair-breadth  efcapesj  but 
fliould  it  be  the  fate  of  war,  and  the  will  of 
Providence  that  I  fliould  fall,  I  fliall  die 
with  the  pleafmg  refle6lion  of  having  ferved 
my  King  and  country.  If  I  furvive,  you 
may  reft  afTured  of  my  embracing  every 
opportunity  to-  inform  you  of  my  deftiny, 
and  how  truly  I  am, 

Yours,  &c. 


X4  LET- 


312  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 


LETTER         XXX. 


Camp  before  Ticonderogay  July  5,  1777. 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND5 

T  X  JE  are  now  arrived  before  a  place 
^  ^  that  is  not  more  talked  of  this  war 
than  the  laft,  on  account  of  the  memora- 
ble fiege  that  then  happened,  in  which  that 
gallant  officer  was  flain,  who,  could  his 
immortal  fpirit  rife  from  its  cold  manfion, 
would  no  doubt  be  highly  pleafed  to  fee 
his  offspring,  one  placed  at  the  head  of 
naval  line,  and  the  other  of  the  army, 
advancing  the  pleafmg  taik  of  refloring 
peace  to  a  deluded  people,  led  on  by  a  fet 

of 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  313 

of  fa6lious  men,  to  a  mod  unnatural  re- 
bellion. 

By  the  Icouting  parties  juft  returned  we 
learn,  that  there  is  a  brigade  which  oc- 
cupies the  old  French  lines  on  a  height,  to 
the  north  of  the  fort  of  Ticonderoga ;  the 
lines  are  in  good  repair,  with  feveral  in- 
trenchments  behind  them,  fupported  by 
a  block-houfe ;  they  have  another  poft  at 
the  faw-mills,  the  foot  of  the  carrying- 
place  to  Lake  George,  and  a  block-houfe 
upon  an  eminence  above  the  mills,  together 
with  a  block-houfe  and  hofpital  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  lake. 

Upon  the  right  of  the  lines,  between 
them  and  the  old  fort,  are  two  new  block- 
houfes,  and  a  confiderable  battery  clofe  to 
the  water's  edge.  But  it  feems  the  Ame- 
ricans have  employed  their  utmofl  induftiy 
where  they  are  in  the  greateft  force,  upon 
Mount  Independence,  which  is  extremely 

lofty 


314  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

lofty  and  circular.  On  the  fummit  of 
the  mount  they  have  a  ftar  fort  made  of 
pickets,  vi^ell  fupphed  with  artillery,  and 
a  large  fquare  of  barracks  within  it  i  that 
fide  of  the  hill  which  projects  into  the  lake 
is  well  intrenched,  and  has  a  llrong  abattis 
clofe  to  the  water,  which  is  lined  with 
heavy  artillery  pointing  down  the  lake, 
flanking  the  water  battery,  and  fuHained 
by  another  about  half  way  up  the  hill. 
Fortified  as  the  enemy  are,  nothing  but 
a  regular  fiege  can  difpoflefs  them. 

There  has  been  a  fkirmiih  with  the  In- 
dians and  a  fmall  party  of  the  enemy,  who 
were  reconnoitering,  in  which  they  were 
driven  back  into  their  lines  y  the  Indians 
were  fo  rafh  as  to  purfue  them  within 
reach  of  their  cannon,  when  feveral  were 
killed  and  wounded.  Upon  the  firing  of 
their  artillery,  the  brigade  were  ordered 
under  arms,  and  fliortly  after  the  Indians 
brought  the  killed  and  wounded  upon  lit- 
ters. 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  315 

ters,  covered  with  leaves.  It  was  thought 
this  would  have  been  a  check  upon  them, 
as  the  firft  that  fell  was  of  their  party,  but 
it  feems  rather  to  ftimulate  their  valor. 

As  our  friend  M —  was  looking  through 
a  brafs  rcfle(?ting  telefcope  at  the  enemy's 
works,  he  cried  out  fliot,  and  we  had 
fcarcely  dropt  down,  before  we  were  co- 
vered with  duft.  lie  faw  them  run  out  the 
cannon  of  the  embrafure,  and  what  I  ima- 
gine contributed  to  their  pointing  them, 
was  the  refle6lion  of  the  fun  upon  the 
telefcope.  After  they  had  difcovered  our 
fituation,  they  fired  feveral  fliot,  but  with- 
out doing  any  mifchief. 

A  very  fuigular  circumftance  has  occur- 
cd  at  this  encampment.  This  morning,  a 
little  after  day-break,  the  ccntinel  of  the 
picquet  guard  faw  a  man  in  the  woods, 
reading  a  book,  whom  the  centinel  chal- 
lenged, but  being  fo   very  intent  on  his 

fludies. 


3l6  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

ftlidies,  he  made  no  reply,  when  the  fol- 
dier  ran  up  to,  and  feizcd  himj  upon 
waking  from  his  reverie,  he  told  the  cen- 
tinel  he  was  Chaplain  to  the  47th  regiment, 
hut  it  being  a  fufpicious  circumilance,  he 
was  detained  till  the  foldier  was  relieved, 
who  took  him  to  the  Captain  of  the  pic- 
quet,  from  whence  he  was  immediately 
fent  to  General  Frafer's  quarters.  General 
Frafer  fuppofmg  it  was  a  finefle,  for  the 
47th  regiment  was  ftationed  two  or  three 
miles  in  the  rear,  and  the  General  think- 
ing himfelf  perfe6lly  acquainted  with  every 
clergyman  in  the  army,  began  to  make 
feveral  enquiries  concerning  the  Ameri- 
ricans,  at  which  he  was  more  perplexed, 
and  ftill  perfifted  in  his  firft  flory.  What 
greatly  contributed  to  thefe  miftakes,  the 
man's  appearance  was  not  altogether  in  his 
favor,  being  in  difliabille.  General  Frafer 
not  being  able  to  make  any  thing  of  him, 
fent  him  with  an  officer  to  General  Bur- 
goyne,    who  had   no  knowledge  of  him. 

To 


THROUGH    AMERICA,  317 

To  clear  up  the  matter,  the  Colonel  of  the 
47th  regiment  was  fent  for,  who  informed 
the  General  that  he  was  the  gentleman  who 
had  delivered  a  letter  from  General  Carle- 
ton,  and  had  only  joined  the  regiment  from 
Canada  the  preceding  evening.  The  ftu- 
dious  gentleman  little  forefaw  to  what 
dangers  he  had  expofed  himfclf  by  his 
morning  ramble,  till  he  was  flopped  by 
the  centinel.  You  will  naturally  think  he 
had  enough  to  cure  him  from  thefe  peram- 
bulations in  the  woods. 

About  three  days  fmce  a  great  fmoke 
was  obferved  towards  Lake  George,  and 
the  fcouts  brought  in  a  report,  that  the 
enemy  had  fet  fire  to  the  fartheft  block- 
houfe,  had  abandoned  the  faw-mills,  and 
that  a  confiderable  body  was  advancing 
from  the  lines  towards  a  bridge,  upon  a 
road  which  led  from  the  faw-mills  to  the 
right  of  our  encampment.  A  detachment 
from  our  corps,  fupportcd  by  the  fecond 

brigade 


3l8  INTERIOR    IRAVELS 

brigade,  and  fome  light  artillery,  under 
the  command  of  General  Phillips,  were 
then  ordered  to  proceed  to  Mount  Hope, 
to  reconnoitre  the  enemy's  pofition,  and  to 
take  advantage  of  any  poft  they  might 
either  abandon  or  be  driven  from. 

The  Indians  under  the  command  of 
Capt^n  Frazer,  fupported  by  his  company 
of  markfmen^  (which  v/ere  volunteer  com- 
panies from  each  regiment  of  the  Britifh) 
were  direfted  to  make  a  circuit  on  the  left 
of  our  encampment,  to  cut  off  the  retreat 
of  the  enemy  to  their  lines :  this  defign, 
however,  was  fruftrated  by  the  impetuofity 
of  the  Indians,  who  attacked  too  foon, 
which  enabled  the  enemy  to  retire  with 
little  lofs.  General  Phillips  took  Mount 
Hope,  which  cut  off  the  enemy  from  any 
communication  with  Lake  George  j  after 
which  we  quitted  our  former  encampment, 
and  occupied  this  poft,  which  is  now  in 
great  force,  there  being  the  whole  of  Ge- 
neral 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  319 

neral  Frafer's  corps,  the  firft  Britiili  bri- 
gade, and  two  brigades  of  artillery.  The 
enemy  have  cannonaded  the  camp,  but 
without  effect,  and  continued  the  fome  the 
next  day,  while  the  ai'my  were  employed 
in  getting  up  the  artillery  tents,  baggage, 
and  provifions,  during  which  time  we  never 
fired  a  fmgle  cannon. 

This  day  Luitenant  Twifs,  the  com- 
manding engineer,  was  ordered  to  recon- 
noitre Sugar-Hill,  on  the  fouth  lide  of 
the  communication  from  Lake  George 
into  Lake  Champlain,  part  of  which  the 
light-infantry  had  taken  pofieffion  of  lafl 
night ;  he  reported  this  hill  to  have  the 
entire  command  of  the  works  and  build- 
ings, both  at  Ticonderoga  and  Mount  In- 
dependence, of  about  1 400  yards  from  the 
former,  and  1500  from  the  latter  3  that 
the  ground  might  be  levelled  fu  as  to  re- 
ceive cannon,  and  thai  the  road  to  convey 
them,  though  extremely  diiiicult,  might  be 

accom- 


320  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

accompliflied  in  twenty-four  hours.  This 
hill  aifo  commanded  the  bridge  of  commu- 
nication, and  from  it  they  could  fee  the 
exact  fituation  of  their  veiiels  j  and  what 
was  another  very  great  advantage,  from 
the  pofieffion  of  this  poll,  the  enemy, 
during  the  day,  could  not  make  any  ma- 
terial movement  or  preparation,  without 
being  difcovered,  and  even  their  numbers 
counted.  Upon  this  report  of  Lieutenant 
Twifs,  it  was  determined  a  battery  fhould 
be  raifed  on  this  poll:,  for  light  twenty- 
four  pounders,  medium  twelves,  and  eight 
inch  howitzers,  v/hich  very  arduous  un- 
dertaking is  now  carrying  on  fo  rapidly, 
that  there  is  little  doubt  but  it  will  be 
compleated  and  ready  to  open  upon  the 
enemy  to-morrow  morning.  Great  praife 
is  due  to  the  zeal  and  a6li\ity  of  General 
Phillips,  who  has  the  direaion  of  this 
operation :  he  has  as  expeditioufly  con- 
veyed cannon  to  the  fummit  of  this  hill, 
as  he  brought  it  up  in  that  memorable 

battle 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  32 1 

battle  at  Minden,  where,  it  is  faid,  fuch 
was  his  anxioufiiefs  in  expediting  the  artil- 
lery, that  he  fplit  no  lefs  than  fifteen  canes 
in  beating  the  horfes  j  at  which  battle  he 
fo  gallantly  diftinguiihed  himfelf,  by  the 
management  of  his  artillery,  as  totally  to 
rout  the  French. 

I  am  happy  to  embrace  the  opportunity 
of  fending  this  by  a  futler,  who  is  return- 
ing down  the  lake  to  St.  John's.  Be  afTured 
you  fhall  know  every  event  of  this  import- 
ant fiege,  by  the  firft  conveyance  that  pre- 
fents  itfelf.     Adieu. 

Yours,   &c. . 


Vol.  I.  y  LET- 


322  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER         XXXI. 


Camp  at  Ske^iejhorough,  July  12,  177; 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

O  doubt,  after  fo  much  as  I  have 
repeatedly  mentioned  to  you  in 
my  former  letters  relative  to  Ticonderoga, 
and  the  vigorous  defence  it  was  univerfally 
fuppofed  the  enemy  would  make,  you 
will  be  greatly  furprized  to  receive  a  letter 
from  me,  at  fo  great  a  diftance  beyond  that 
important  pofl: ;  fully  to  explain  to  you 
the  manner  of  the  Americans  abandoning 
it,  and  our  progrefs  to  this  place,  I  muft 
proceed  a  little  methodically  in  my  defcrip- 
tion. 

After 


THROUGH     AMERICA,  323 

After  we  had  gained  pofleilion  of  Sugar- 
Hill,  on  the  5th  inllant,  that  very  evening 
we  obfervcd  the  enemy  making  great  fires  5 
it  was  then  generally  thought  they  were 
meditating  an  attack,  or  that  they  were 
retreating,  which  latter  circumftance  really 
was  the  cafe,  for  about  day-break  intelli- 
gence was  brought  to  General  Frafer,  that 
the  enemy  were  retiring,  when  the  pic- 
quets  were  ordered  to  advance,  which  the 
brigades,  as  foon  as  they  were  accoutred, 
were  to  follow. 

They  were  foon  ready,  and  marched 
down  to  the  works ;  when  we  came  to  the 
bridge  of  communication,  we  were  obliged 
to  halt  till  it  was  fufficiently  repaired  for 
the  troops  to  pafs,  as  the  enemy,  in  their 
abandoning  the  works,  had  deftroyed  it, 
and  had  left  four  men,  who  were,  upon  the 
approach  of  our  army,  to  have  fired  off  the 
cannon  of  a  lar<re  battery  that  defended  it, 
Y  2  and 


324  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

and  retire  as  quick  as  poflible.  No  doubt 
this  was  their  intention,  as  they  left  their 
lighted  matches  clofe  to  the  cannon. 

Had  thefe  men  obeyed  their  inftru6lions^ 
they  would,  fituated  as  our  brigade  v/as, 
have  done  great  mifchief  j  but,  allured  by 
the  fweets  of  plunder  and  liquor,  inftead 
of  obeying  their  orders,  we  found  them 
dead  drunk  by  a  calk  of  Madeira.  This 
battery,  however,  had,  through  the  folly 
of  an  Indian,  nearly  been  productive  of 
fatal  confequences  to  the  9th  regiment,  for 
jufl  at  the  time  it  was  paffing  the  bridge, 
as  he  was  very  curious  in  examining 
every  thing  that  came  in  his  way,  he  took 
up  a  match  that  lay  on  the  ground,  with 
fome  fire  ftill  remaining  in  it,  when  a  fpark 
dropping  upon  the  priming  of  a  cannon,  it 
went  off,  loaded  with  all  manner  of  comx- 
buflibles,  but  it  fortunately  happened  the 
gun  was  fo  elevated,  no  mifchief  enfued. 

Shortly 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  352 

In  a  fliort  time  after  the  bridge  was 
rendered  paflable,  our  brigade  croiied,  and 
we  advanced  up  to  the  picqueted  fort, 
where  the  Britilh  colours  were  inftantly 
hoilled.  The  Americans  certainly  had 
planned  fome  fcheme,  which  proved  abor- 
tive, and  which  was  left  perhaps  to  the 
commiffion  of  thofe  men  who  remained 
behind,  for  the  ground  was  ilrewed  all 
over  with  gunpowder,  and  there  were 
likewife  feveral  caiks  of  it  with  the  tops 
flruck  out. 

After  we  had  remained  fome  little  time 
in  the  fort,  orders  came  for  the  advanced 
corps  to  march  in  purfuit  of  the  enemy, 
who,  we  were  informed,  had  gone  to  Hu^ 
berton,  in  order  to  harrafs  their  rear.  We 
marched  till  one  o'clock,  in  a  very  hot  and 
fultry  day,  over  a  continued  fucceffion  of 
fleep  and  woody  hills;  the  diftance  I  can- 
not afcertain,  but  we  were  marching  very 
Y  3  expe* 


326  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

expeditioufly  from  four  in  the  morning  to 
that  time. 


On  our  march  we  picked  up  feveral 
flragglers,  from  whom  General  Frafer 
learnt  that  the  rear-guard  of  the  enemy 
was  compofed  of  chofen  men,  commanded 
by  a  Colonel  Francis,  who  was  reckoned 
one  of  their  bell  officers. 

During  the  time  the  advanced  corps 
halted  to  refrelh.  General  Reidefel  came 
up,  and  after  confulting  with  General 
Frafer,  and  making  arrangements  for  con- 
tinuing the  purfuit,  we  marched  forward 
again  three  miles  nearer  the  enemy,  to  an 
advantageous  fituation,  where  we  lay  that 
night  on  our  arms. 

At  three  in  the  morning  our  march  was 
renewed,  and  about  five  we  came  up  with 
the  enemy,  who  were  bufily  employed  in 
cooking  their  provifions. 

Major 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  327 

Major  Gmnt,  of  the  24th  regiment,  who  , 
had  the  advanced  guard,  attacked  their 
picquets,  which  were  foon  driven  in  to  the 
main  body.  From  this  attack  we  lament 
tlie  death  of  this  veiy  gallant  and  brave 
officer,  who  in  all  probability  fell  a  vi6lim 
to  the  great  difadvantages  we  experience 
peculiar  to  this  unfortunate  conteft,  thofc 
of  the  rifle-rrten.  Upon  his  coming  up 
with  the  enemy,  he  got  upon  the  flump 
of  a  tree  to  reconnoitre,  and  had  hardly 
given  the  men  orders  to  fire,  when  he  was 
ftruck  by  a  rifle  ball,  fell  off  the  tree,  and 
never  uttered  another  fyllable. 

The  light  infantry  then  formed,  as  well 
as  the  24th  regiment,  the  former  of  which 
fufFered  very  much  from  the  enemy's  fire, 
particulaily  the  companies  of  the  29th  and 
34th  regiments.  The  grenadiers  were  or- 
dered to  form  to  prevent  the  enemy's  get- 
ting to  the  road  that  leads  to  Caflle-Town, 
which  they  were  endeavouring  to  do,  and 
Y  4  were 


328  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

were  repulfed,  upon  which  they  attempted 
their  retreat  by  a  very.ileep  mountain  to 
Pittsford.  The  grenadiers  fcrambkd.  up; 
an  afcent  which  appeared  almoit  inaecef- 
fible,  and  gained  the  fuiiaiiriit  of  the  moun- 
tain before  themj  this  threw  them:  into 
great  confufion,  and  that  you  may, form, 
fome  idea  how  fteep  th^-^fcent  niuitkave 
been,  the  men  were  obhged  to  fli^g  t|ieir 
firelocks  and  cHmb  up  the  fidp, .  fometimes 
refting  their  feet  upon  ^be  fcl'ajiich  of  a. 
tree,  and  fometimes  on  a  piece  of  the  rock  5 
had  any  been  fo  unfortunate  as  to  have 
miiTed  his  hold,  he  muft  inevitably  been 
dallied  to  pieces. 

Although  the  grenadiers  had  gain'd;  the 
fummit  of  this  mountain,  and  the  Ameri- 
cans had  loft  great  numbers  of  their  men, 
with  their  brave  commander  Col.  Francis^, 
ftill  they  were  far  fuperior  in  numbers  to 
the  Britilh,  and  the  contefl  remained 
doubtful  till  the  arrival  of  the  Germans, 

when 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  329 

when  the  Americans  fled  on  all  fides,  whofe 
numbers  amomited  to  2000 ;  they  were 
oppofed  only  by  850  Britifli,  as  it  was 
near  two  hours  before  the  Germans  made 
their  appearance. 

General  Reidefel  had  come  to  the  field 
of  a6lion  a  confiderable  time  before  hisj 
troops,  and  in  tlie  courfe  of  the  aftion 
paflhig  by  him,  I  could  not  help  feeUng 
for  his  fituatiori,  for  the  honor  of  a 
brave  officer,  who  was  pouring,  forth  every 
imprecation  againft  his  troops,  for  their 
not  arriving  at  the  place  of  a6tion  time 
enough  to  earn  the  glories  of  the  day. 

Upon  their  arrival,  we  were  apprehen- 
five,  by  the  noife  we  heard,  that  a  reinforce- 
ment had  been  fent  back  from  the  main 
body  of  the  American  army  for  the  fnp- 
port  of  their  rear-guard,  for  they  began 
fmging  pfalms  on  their  advance,  and  at 
the  fame  time  kept  up  an  incelfant  firing, 

Vv^hich 


33^  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

which  totally  decided  the  fate  of  the  day; 
but  even  after  the  a6lion  v^^as  over,  there 
were  lurking  parties  hovering  about  the 
woods. 

During  the  battle  the  Americans  were 
guilty  of  fuch  a  breach  of  all  military  rules, 
as  could  not  fail  to  exafperate  our  foldiers. 
The  a6lion  was  chiefly  in  woods,  inter- 
fperfed  with  a  few  open  fields.  Two  com- 
panies of  grenadiers,  who  were  ftationed 
in  the  ikirts  of  the  wood,  clofe  to  one  of 
thefe  fields,  to  watch  that  the  enemy  did 
not  out-flank  the  24th  regiment,  obferved 
a  number  of  the  Americans,  to  the  amount 
of  near  fixty,  coming  acrofs  the  field,  with 
their  arms  clubbed,  which  is  always  con- 
fidered  to  be  a  furrender  as  prifoners  of 
war.  The  grenadiers  were  reftrained  from 
firing,  commanded  to  ftand  with  their 
arms,  and  fliew  no  intention  of  hollility : 
when  the  Americans  had  got  within  ten 
yards,  they  in  an  inftant   turned  round 

their 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  33! 

their  mufqiiets,  fired  upon  the  grenadiers, 
and  run  as  fail  as  they  could  into  the 
woods;  their  fire  killed  and  wounded  a 
great  number  of  men,  and  thofe  who 
efcaped  immediately  purfued  them,  and 
gave  no  quarter. 

This  war  is  very  different  to  the  lafl 
in  Germany ;  in  this  the  life  of  an  indivi- 
dual is  fought  with  as  much  avidity  as 
the  obtaining  a  victory  over  an  army  of 
thoufands,  of  which  the  follov/ing  is  a 
melancholy  inllance: 

After  the  action  was  over,  and  all  firing 
had  ceafed  for  near  two  hours,  upon  the 
fummit  of  the  mountain  I  have  already 
defcribed,  which  had  no  ground  any  where 
that  could  command  it,  a  number  of  offi- 
cers were  colle6fed  to  read  the  papers  taken 
out  of  the  pocket  book  of  Colonel  Fran- 
cis, when  Captain  Shrimpton,  of  the  6  2d 
regiment,  who  had  the  papers  in  his  hand, 

jumped 


332  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

jumped  up  and  fell,  exclaiming,  "  he  was 
"  feverely  wounded;"  we  all  heard  the 
ball  whiz  by  us,  and  turning  to  the  place 
from  whence  tlie  report  came,  faw  the 
fmoke  :  as  there  was  every  reafon  to  ima- 
gine the  piece  was  fired  from  fome  tree, 
a  party  of  men  were  inftantly  detached, 
but  could  find  no  perfon,  the  fellov/,  no 
doubt,  as  foon  as  he  had  fired,  liad  flipt 
down  and  made  his  efcape. 

About  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
the  grenadiers  were  ordered  from  the  fum- 
mit  of  the  mountain  to  join  the  light  in- 
fantiy  and  24th  regiment,  on  an  advan- 
tageous fituation  ;  in  our  cool  moments, 
in  defcending,  every  one  was  aftonifned 
how  he  had  ever  gained  the  fummit. — 
For  my  own  part,  it  appeared  as  if  I 
fhould  never  reach  the  bottom  ^  but  my 
defcent  was  greatly  retarded  by  conduct- 
ing Major  Ackland,  who  was  wounded 
in  the  thigh. 

In 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  333 

In  this  action  I  found  all  manual  exer- 
cife  is  but  an  ornament,  and  the  only 
obje6l  of  importance  it  can  boafl  of  was 
that  of  loading,  firing,  and  charging  with 
bayonets:  as  to  the  former,  the  foldiers 
fhould  be  inftrucled  in  the  beft  and  moft 
expeditious  method.  Here  I  cannot  help 
obferving  to  you,  whether  it  proceeded 
from  an  idea  of  felf  prefervation,  or  natu- 
ral inftin-Sl,  but  the  foldiers  greatly  im- 
proved the  mode  they  were  taught  in,  as 
to  expedition,  for  as  foon  as  they  had 
primed  their  pieces,  and  put  the  cartridge 
into  the  barrel,  inftead  of  ramming  it 
down  with  their  rods,  theyflruck  the  butt 
end  of  their  piece  upon  the  ground,  and 
bringing  it  to  the  prcfent^  fired  it  off. 
The.  confufion  of  a  man's  ideas  during 
the  time  of  a6lion,  brave  as  he  may  be, 
is  undoubtedly  great ;  feveral  of  the  men, 
upon  examining  their  mulkets,  after  all 
was  over,    found   five  or    fix    cartridges, 

which 


334  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

which    they  were  pofitive   to  the  having 
difcharged. 

Deferring  the  remainder  of  the  particu- 
lars of  this  action,  with  our  march  to 
this  place,  I  remain 

Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  335 


LETTER        XXXII. 


Camp  at  Sksnejl'orough,  "Julj  14?  1777- 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

TH  E  confufion  of  the  enemy  on  their 
retreat  was  very  great,  as  they  were 
neither  fcnfible  where  they  fled,  nor  by 
whom  thev  were  conducled,  after  Colonel 
Francis  was  killed,  when  they  took  to  the 
mountains. 

Exclufive  of  200  men  that  were  killed, 
and  near  600  wounded,  many  of  whom 
died  in  endeavouring  to  get  off,  the  lofs 
on  our  fde  has  been  very  inconfiderable. 
After  the  action  was  over,  a  Colonel  with 

the 


336  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

the  remains  of  his  regiment,  to  the  amount 
of  230,  came  and  furrendered  himfelf 
prifoner. 

The  advantages  of  the  ground  v/as 
wholly  on  the  fide  of  the  Americans,  added 
to  which  the  woods  were  fo  thick,  that 
little  or  no  order  could  be  obferved  in  ad- 
vancing upon  the  enemy,  it  being  totally 
impoffible  to  form  a  regular  line  ;  perfonal 
courage  and  intrepidity  was  therefore  to 
fupply  the  place  of  military  fkill  and  dif- 
cipline.  The  native  bravery  of  our  coun- 
trymen could  not  be  more  refolutely  dif- 
played  than  in  this  a6lion,  .nor  more  effec- 
tually exerted.  It  was  a  trial  of  the  a6li- 
vity,  flrength  and  valor  of  every  man  that 
fought.  At  the  commencement  of  the 
action  the  enemy  were  every  where  thrown 
into  the  greatell:  confufion,  but  being  ral- 
lied by  that  brave  officer.  Colonel  Francis, 
whofe  death,  though  an  enemy,  will  ever 
be  regretted  by  thofe  who  can  feel  for  the 

lofs 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  337 

lofs  of  a  gallant  and  brave  man,  the  fight 
was  renewed  with  the  greateft   degree  of 
fiercenefs  and  obflinacy.     Both  parties  en- 
gaged in  feparate  detachments  unconnected  . 
with  each  other,  and  the  numbers  of  the 
enemy  empowered  them  to  front  flank  and 
rear.    Some  of  thefe  detachments,  notwith- 
ftanding  an  inferiority,  moil  refolutely  de- 
fended themfelves,  and  the  fate  of  the  day 
was  undecided  till  the  arrival  of  the  Ger- 
mans, who,  though  late,  came  in  for  a 
fhare  of  the  glory,  in  difperfmg  the  enemy 
in  all  quarters. 

Having  given  you  the  particulars  of  this 
engagement,  permit  me,  as  it  is  the  firft  I 
ever  was  in,  to  make  my  remarks  in  the 
time  of  confiicl. 

During  the  a6lion,  every  apprehenflon 
and  idea  of  danger  forfakes  the  mind,  which 
becomes  more  animated  and  determined 
the  nearer  the  time  of  attack  approaches. 

Vol.  I.  Z  Every 


33B  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

Every  foldier  feels  infpired  with  an  impa-^ 
tient  ardor,  as  if  he  conceived  the  fate  of  the 
battle  v^ould  be  decided  by  the  level  of  his 
mufquet,  or  the  point  of  his  bayonet : 
but  the  confli6l  once  over,  the  mind  re- 
turns to  its  proper  fenfe  of  feeling,  and 
deeply  mufl  its  fenfibility  be  wounded, 
when  the  eye  glances  over  the  field  of 
(laughter,  where  fo  many  brave  fellows, 
who  a  few  hours  before  were  in  high  fpirits 
and  full  of  the  vigor  of  life,  are  laid  low  in 
the  duft,  and  the  ear  continually  pierced 
with  the  deep  fighs  and  groans  of  the 
wounded  and  dying.  Even  the  joy  rifmg 
in  the  bofom  at  the  light  of  furviving 
friends  and  brother  officers,  is  faddened  by 
the  recolle6lion  of  thofe  who  fell.  Such, 
my  dear  friend,  are  the  fenfations  of  the 
mind,  before  and  after  a  battle. 

That  foldiers  have  many  hair-breadth 
efcapes,  I  am  fure  was  never  more  fully 

verified 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  339 

verified,  than  in  regard  to  Lord  Balcarres, 
who  commands  the  light  infantry ;  he  had 
near  thirty  balls  Ihot  through  his  jacket 
and  trovvfers,  and  yet  only  received  a  fmall 
graze  on  the  hip.     Others  were   equally 
as   unfortunate,  for   upon  the  very  firft 
attack  of  the  light  infantry,  Lieutenant 
Haggit   received   a  ball   in    each   of    his 
eyes,  and  Lieutenant  Douglas,  of  the  29th 
regiment,  as  he  was  carried  off  the  field 
wounded,  received  a  ball  dire6lly  through 
his  heart.       Thefe    extraordinary  events 
may  in  fome  meafure  be  accounted  for, 
as  the  leaft  refiflance  of  a  mufquet  ball 
will  give  it  a  direftion  almoft  incredible : 
when  the  Surgeon  came  to  examine  the 
wound  of  a  poor   American,  it  appeared 
that  the  ball  had  entered  on  his  left  fide, 
and  having  traverfed  between  the  Ikin  and 
the  back  bone,  came  out  on  the  oppofite 
fide. 

Z2  Whea 


340  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

When  General  Frafer  had  pofled  the 
corps  in  an  advantageous  ftate  of  defence, 
and  made  fome  log  works,  as  he  expe6led 
we  fhould  be  attacked,  his  next  thoughts 
were,  how  to  refrefh  the  men  after  the  fa- 
tigues of  the  day,  provifions  being  unable 
to  be  forwarded,  on  account  of  the  coun- 
'  try's  being  very  hilly ;  a  detachment  was 
fent  to  flioot  fome  bullocks  that  were  run- 
ning in  the  woods,  thefe  were  diftributed 
in  ratios  to  the  men,  which  they  eat, 
drefTed  upon  wood  afhes,  without  either 
bread  or  fait. 

Juft  at  this  time  chance  fupplied  the 
officers  with  a  very  acceptable,  though  lin- 
gular fubftitute  for  bread  to  their  beef: 
an  officer  who  was  at  Ticonderoga,  by  way 
of  a  joke,  fent  his  brother  a  great  quantity 
of  gingerbread  that  was  taken  at  that 
place,  which  he  now  diftributed  among  the 
officers,  and  as  General  Frafer  fhared  the 

fame 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  34 1 

fame  as  the  men,  he  fent  part  of  it  to  him 
as  a  prefent. 

We  laid  upon  our  arms  all  night,  and 
the  next  morning  fent  back  the  prifoners 
to  Ticonderoga,  amounting  to  near  250. 
A  very  fmall  detachment  could  be  fpared 
to  guard  them,  as  General  Frafer  expe<5led 
the  enemy  would  have  reinforcements  from 
the  main  body  of  their  army,  and  oppofe 
his  crofling  a  wide  creek,   after   we  had 
pafled  Caftletown.     He  told  the  Colonel  of 
the  Americans,  who  had  furrendered  himfelf, 
to  inform  the  reft  of  the  prifoners,  that  if 
they  attempted  to  efcape,  no  quarter  would 
be  fliewn  them,  and  that  thofe  who  might 
elude  the  guard,  the  Indians  woidd  be  fent 
in  purfuit  of,  and  fcalp  them. 

Leaving;  the  fick  and  wounded   under 

the  care  of  a  fubaltern's  guard,  to  prote6l 

them  from  the  Indians,  or  fcouting  parties 

of  the  enemy,    the    brigade  marched  to 

Z  3  Callle-" 


34^  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

Caftletown,  where  the  men  were  recruited 
with  fome  frefh  provifions  and  a  gill  of 
rum;  after  this  they  proceeded  on  their 
march  to  the  creek,  to  crofs  over  which 
the  pioneers  were  obliged  to  fell  fbme 
trees  j  only  one  man  could  pafs  over  at  a 
time,  fo  that  it  was  near  dark  before  the 
whole  of  the  brigade  had  crofTed,  when  we 
had  feven  miles  to  march  to  this  place, 

Major  Shrimpton,  who  I  told  you  was 
wounded  upon  the  hill,  rather  than  remain 
with  the  wounded  at  Huberton,  preferred 
marching  with  the  brigade,  and  on  croffing 
this  creek,  having  only  one  hand  to  affifl 
himfelf  with,  was  on  the  point  of  flip- 
ping in,  had  not  an  officer  who  was  be- 
hind him  caught  hold  of  his  cloaths,  jufl 
as  he  was  falling.  His  wound  was  through 
his  fhoulder,  and  as  he  could  walk,  he  faid 
he  would  not  remain  to  fall  into  the  ene- 
my's hands,  as  it  was  univerfally  thought 
the  fick  and  wounded  n>uft,  Very  fortu- 
nately. 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  343 

nately,  however,  for  them,  they  met  with 
no  moleftation,  and  three  days  after  were 
conveyed  in  Utters  to  Ticonderoga,  as  the 
road  was  impaflable  for  any  fort  of  car- 
riage. 

After  we  had  crofTed  the  creek.  General 
Frafer  was  perfe6lly  eafy  in  his  mind  con- 
cerning an  attack,  which  he  had  been  ap- 
prehenfive  of  the  whole  day,  and  gave 
orders  to  make  the  beft  of  our  way  to  this 
encampment,  which  was  through  a  road 
where  every  ftep  we  took  was  nearly  up  to 
the  knees.  After  a  march  of  near  thirty 
miles,  in  an  exceffive  woody  and  bad 
country,  every  moment  in  expe6lation 
of  being  attacked,  till  we  had  crofTed  the 
creek,  you  muft  naturally  fuppofe  we 
underwent  a  mofl  fevere  fatigue,  both  of 
mind  and  body. 

For  my  own  part,  I  readily  own  to  you, 

that  the  exertions  of  the  day  had  fo  far 

Z  4  wearied 


344  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

wearied  me,  that  drinking  heartily  of  rum 
and  water,  I  laid  down  in  my  bear-lkin  and 
blanket,  and  did  not  awake  till  twelve  the 
next  day.  But  that  I  may  not  fatigue  you 
as  much  as  I  then  felt  myfelf,  or  make  you 
fall  afleep,  I  fliall  conclude  with  fubfcribing 
myfelf. 


Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  345 


LETTER        XXXIII. 


Camp  at  Skenejbor ought  J"h  H»  ^111  • 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

XT  rE  are  ftill  encamped  at  this  place, 
'  '  waiting  the  arrival  of  provifions, 
batteaux,  and  many  other  incumbrances, 
armies  in  general  are  but  very  feldom 
troubled  with,  and  is  a  hindrance  which 
that  to  the  fouthward  has  not  to  encoun- 
ter, for  whatever  want  of  water  carriage 
they  meet  with,  the  navy  can  always  a6l 
in  co-operation  with  them.  I  mention 
this,  that  you  may  not  be  furprized  at 
our  not  making  fuch  rapid  marches,  and 

over- 


346  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

over-running  the  country,  as  they  in  all 
probability  will. 

The  army  are  all  alTembled  at  this  place, 
and  in  a  few  days  the  advanced  corps 
march  to  Fort  Edward.  You  would  like 
to  learn  the  movements  of  the  other  part 
of  the  army,  after  we  got  pofTellion  of 
Ticonderoga ;  I  was  not  with  them,  but 
you  fhall  know  what  I  have  been  able  to 
colle(5l. 

After  a  paffage  had  been  made,  with 
great  difficulty,  but  with  much  expedi- 
tion, for  the  gun-boats  and  veflels  to  pafs 
the  bridge  of  communication,  between  Ti- 
conderoga and  Fort  Independence,  (which 
had  coft  the  Americans  much  labor  and 
expence  in  conftru6ling)  the  main  body  of 
the  army  purfued  the  enemy  by  South 
Bay,  witliin  three  miles  of  this  place, 
where  they  were  polled  in  a  ftockaded 
fort,  with  their  armed  gallies.     The  firft 

brigade 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  347 

brigade  was  dlfembarked  with  an  intention 
of  cutting  off"  the  enemy's  retreat,  but 
their  hafty  flight  rendered  that  manoeuvre 
ufelefs.  The  gun-boats  and  frigates  pur- 
fued  the  armed  vcfTels,  and  when  the  enemy 
arrived  at  the  falls  of  this  place,  they 
made  a  defence  for  fome  time,  after  which 
they  blew  up  three  of  their  veflels,  and 
the  other  two  llruck. 

On  the  enemy's  retreat  they  fet  fire  to 
the  fort,  dwell ing-houfe,  faw-mill,  iron- 
works, and  all  the  building  on  this  plan- 
tation, deftroyed  the  battcaux  and  retired 
to  Fort  Edward. 

An  officer  who  came  up  at  the  time  of 
the  conflagration,  affured  me  he  never  faw 
fo  tremendous  a  fight  j  for  exclufive  of  the 
(hipping,  building,  &c.  the  trees  all  up 
the  fide  of  the  hanging  rock,  had  caught 
fire,   as  well  as  at  the  top  of  a  veiy  lofty 

hill. 


348  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

hill.      The  element  appeared  to  threaten 
univerfal  deftruction. 

The  9th  regiment  was  fent  to  take  poft 
at  Fort  Ann,  to  obferve  the  motion  of  the 
enemy,  as  well  as  to  diilodge  thejn:  but 
intelligence  having  been  received  that  they 
had  been  greatly  reinforced,  Colonel  Hill 
fent  word  to  General  Burgoyne,  that  he 
fhould  not  retire  with  his  regiment  but 
maintain  his  ground ;  the  other  two  re- 
giments of  the  brigade,  with  two  pieces 
of  artillery,  were  ordered  to  fupport  them, 
with  General  Phillips,  who  took  the  com- 
mand j  but  a  violent  ilorm  of  rain,  which 
lafted  the  whole  day,  prevented  their  get- 
ting to  their  relief  fo  foon  as  was  intended, 
which  gave  the  9th  regiment  an  opportu- 
nity of  diftingu filing  themfelves,  in  a 
moft  gallant  and  fignal  manner,  by  re- 
pulfmg  an  attack  of  fix  times  their  num- 
ber, and  the  enemy  not  being  able  to  force 

them 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  349 

them  in  front,  endeavored  to  turn  their 
flank,  which  from  their  great  fuperiority 
was  much  to  be  feared;  when  Colonel 
Hill  thought  it  necelfary  to  change  his  po- 
lition  in  the  very  height  of  the  aftion, 
which  was  executed  with  great  fteadinefs 
and  bravery.  In  this  manner  the  fight 
was  carried  on  for  a  confiderable  length  of 
time,  the  Britifh  troops  maintaining  their 
ground,  and  the  enemy  gradually  retir- 
ing, were  at  lafl  totally  repulfed,  and 
fled  to  Fort  Edward,  fetting  fire  to  Fort 
Ann,  but  left  a  faw-mill  and  block-houfe 
fl:anding,  which  was  immediately  taken 
poiielTion  of  by  a  party  of  the  9th  regi- 
ment. 

After  we  had  abandoned  this  block-houle 
and  faw  mills,  and  proceeded  to  Fort 
Edv^ard,  the  enemy  returned  and  fet  fire  to 
it ;  and  as  you  defire  me  to  fend  you  a  few 
drawings  of  fuch  things  as  I  might  think 

befl 


350  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

beft  worth  taking  a  Iketch  of,  I  have  fent 
a  reprefentation  of  the  block-houfe  and 
faw  mill,  as  being  a  very  romantic  view. 


The  9th  regiment  have  acquired  great 
honor  in  this  a6lion ;  though  it  lafled  fo 
long,  and  was  fought  under  fuch  difadvan- 
tages,  they  have  fuflained  very  little  lofs. 
Captain  Montgomery  (brother-in-law  to 
Lord  Townfliend)  a  very  gallant  officer, 
was  wounded  early  in  the  aftion,  and  ta- 
ken prifoner,  with  the  Surgeon,  as  he  was 
dreffing  his  wound,  which  happened  as  the 
regiment  was  changing  its  pofition. 

During  this  action,  that  pleafant  Hiber- 

nianj  acquaintance  of  ours,  M ,  of  the 

famd  regiment,  was  (lightly  wounded,  and 
convleyed  into  the  houfe  with  the  reft  of 
the  Wounded,  which  had  been  attacked, 
as  part  of  the  regiment  had  thrown  them- 
felves  into  it,  for  better  defence  during  the 
a6lion.  Our  friend  M ,  in  endeavor- 
ing 


Q  V;^^/'.  ymv  e   1/^7/  J^^  /3./r^/^ 


350  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

beft  worth  taking  a  jlketch  of,  I  have  fent 
a  reprefentation  of  the  block-houfe  and 
{aw  mill,  as  being  a  very  romantic  view. 

The  9th  regiment  have  acquired  great 
honor  in  this  adlion ;  though  it  lafted  fo" 
long,  and  was  fought  under  fuch  difadvan- 
tages,  they  have  fuftained  very  little  lofs. 
Captain  Montgomery  (brother-in-law  to 
Lord  Townfhend)  a  very  gallant  officer, 
was  wounded  early  in  the  aftion,  and  ta- 
ken prifoner,  with  the  Surgeon,  as  he  was 
dreffing  his  wound,  which  happened  as  the 
regiment  was  changing  its  pofition^ 

During  this  action,  that  pleafant  Hiber- 
nian! acquaintance  of  ours,  M ,  of  the 

fame  regiment,  was  (lightly  wounded,  and 
conveyed  into  the  houfe  with  the  reft  of 
the  wounded,  which  had  been  attacked, 
as  part  of  the  regiment  had  thrown  them- 
felves  into  it,  for  better  defence  during  the 
a^lipn.  Our  friend  M ,  in  endeavor- 
ing 


I        CiZV^i^^;./^//' .  /^//j- /j'^-./ '"X-/..,    y.^..    /fv /.////,//,./ ///... 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  35I 

ing  to  comfort  his  feilow-fufFerers,  in  a 
blunt  manner,  exclaimed,  "  By  heavens, 
"  my  good  lads,  you  need  not  think  fo 
"  much  of  being  wovmded,  for  by  Jafus 
"  God  there's  a  bullet  in  the  beam." 

As  to  the  other  part  of  the  army,  fome 
remained  behind  at  Ticonderoga,  fome  em- 
ployed in  bi  inging  up  the  batteaux,  &c. 
but  the  whole  are  now  aliemblcd,  and  col- 
levied  at  this  place. 

From  the  various  accounts  we  have  been 
able  to  colle6l  of  the  Americans,  rela- 
tive to  their  abandoning  Ticonderoga,  it 
feemed  that  upon  our  gaining  pofTeflion  of 
Sugar-Hill,  a  pofb  which  they  were  cer- 
tainly very  negligent  and  imprudent  in  not 
fecuring,  they  were  greatly  difmayed,  and 
feeing  the  preparations  we  were  making 
to  open  a  batteiy,  which  I  before  obferved 
had  the  command  of  all  their  works,  they 
called  a  council  of  their  principal  officers, 

when 


352  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

when  it  was  pointed  out  to  them  by  Ge- 
neral Sinclair,  who  commanded  the  garri- 
fon,  that  their  force  was  very  deficient  in 
numbers  to  man  their  works,  and  that  it 
was  impoffible  to  make  any  effe6lual  de- 
fence, obferving  to  them  that  places,  how- 
ever ftrong,  without  a  fufiicient  number  of 
troops,  mull  furrender,  and  that  in  all  pro- 
bability the  place  would  be  furrounded  in 
lefs  than  four  and  twenty  hours.  In  this 
fituation  of  affairs,  the  General  faw  the 
ruin  of  his  army,  and  it  was  his  opinion, 
that  the  fort  ought  to  be  abandoned  to  fave 
the  troops ;  that  die  baggage  and  artillery 
ftores  were  to  be  fent  to  Skeneiborough  by 
water,  and  the  troops  were  to  march  by 
land,  by  the  way  of  Huberton,  to  that 
place.  Thefe  propofals  being  fully  approv- 
ed of  by  the  council,  was  the  reafon  of 
their  evacuating  it  that  night,  and  hazard- 
ing the  undertaking. 

General 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  353 

General  Burgoyne  forefeeing  the  great 
difficulties  of  conveying  even  provifions, 
fetting  apart  baggage,  has  ifTued  out  the 
following  orders : 


"  It  is  obferved,  that  the  injun6lion 
given  before  the  army  took  the  field,  re- 
lative to  the  baggage  of  officers,  has  not 
been  complied  with,  and  that  the  regi- 
ments in  general  are  incumbered  with 
much  more  baggage  than  they  can  pof- 
fibly  be  fupplied  with  means  of  convey- 
ing, when  they  quit  the  lake  and  rivers : 
warning  is  therefore  given  again  to  the 
officers,  to  convey  by  the  batteaiix  which 
will  foon  return  to  Ticonderoga,  the 
baggage  that  is  not  indifpenfibly  necef- 
fary  to  them,  or  upon  the  firfl  fudden 
movement,  it  muft  inevitably  be  left  on 
the  ground.  Such  gentlemen  as  ferved 
in  America  lafl  war  may  remember,  that 
the  ofRcers  took  up  with  foldiers  tents, 
Vol.  I.  A  a  "  and 


354  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

"  and  often  confined  their  baggage  to  a 
*'  knapfack,  for  months  together." 

Fortunately  for  me,  my  horfe  has  come 
fafe  round  the  lakes,  which  will  enable  me 
to  keep  the  little  baggage  I  brought  with 
me. 

The  Indians,  animated  with  our  fuc- 
cefs,  have  acquired  more  confidence  and 
courage,  as  great  numbers  have  joined  the 
army,  and  are  daily  continuing  fo  to  do. 

Unexpe(51:ed  orders  being  jufl:  given  out, 
that  Captain  Gardner  departs  to-morrow 
for  England,  and  having  feveral  more  let- 
ters to  write,  I  am  obliged  to  leave  you. 
Adieu. 

Yours,  &c. 


LET^ 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  355 


LETTER        XXXIV. 


Camp  at  Skenejboroughf  July  17,  1777* 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

YO  U  will  no  doubt  be  furprized,  that 
in  my  account  of  the  proceedings  of 
the  army,  every  circumftance  of  which 
feems  to  add  glory  and  conqueft  to  the 
Britifh  arms,  that  I  never  made  mention 
of  the  favages,  in  our  purfuit  of  the  enemy 
from  Ticonderoga  j  they  could  not,  in  any 
refpecl  whatever,  be  drawn  away  from  the 
plunder  of  that  place,  and  I  am  afraid  this 
is  not  the  only  inftance  in  which  the  Ge- 
neral has  found  their  alTillance  little  more 
than  a  name. 

A  a  2  Thofe 


356  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

Thofe  who  have  the  management  and 
conduct  of  them  are,  from  interefted  mo- 
tives, obliged  to  indulge  them  in  all  their 
caprices  and  humors,  and,  like  fpoiled 
children,  are  more  unreafonable  and  im- 
portunate upon  every  new  indulgence 
granted  them ;  but  there  is  no  remedy ; 
were  they  left  to  themfelves,  they  would 
be  guilty  of  enormities  too  horrid  to  think 
of,  for  guilty  and  innocent,  women  and 
infants,  would  be  their  common  prey. 

This  is  too  much  the  cafe  of  the  lower 
Canadian  Indians,  which  are  the  only  ones 
who  have  joined  our  army ;  but  we  under- 
fland,  within  two  days  march,  the  OiUawaSy 
and  fome  remoter  nations,  are  on  the  road 
to  join  us,  more  brave,  and  more  tra6lable, 
who  profefs  war,  and  not  pillage.  They 
are  under  the  direction  of  a  Monfieur  St. 
Luc,  and  one  Langdak^  both  of  whom 
were  great  partizans  of  the  French  laft  war ; 
the  latter  was  the  perfon  who  planned  and 

executed. 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  357 

executed,    with   the    nations    he  is   now 
efcorting,  the  defeat  of  General  Braddock. 

If  thefe  Indians  coiTeljjond  with  the 
chaia6ler  given  of  them,  fome  good  may 
be  derived  from  their  afliftance  j  Httle  is  to 
be  expelled  from  thofe  with  the  army  at 
prefent,  but  plundering. 

As  I  hinted  to  you  in  a  former  letter, 
the  General's  manifefto  has  not  had  the 
defired  effect,  as  intelligence  is  brought  in 
that  the  committees  are  uiing  their  utmofl 
endeavors  to  counteract  it,  by  watching  and 
im.prifoning  all  perfons  they  fufpecl,  com- 
pelling the  people  to  take  arms,  to  drive 
their  cattle  and  burn  their  corn,  under  the 
penalty  of  immediate  death ,  and,  fony  am 
I  to  add,  that  numbers  of  well-difpofed 
perfons  to  the  fuccefs  of  our  arms,  have 
already  undergone  that  fate  !  Hiitory,  I 
think,  cannot  furnifli  an  inflaiice,  where 
a  war  was  ever  carried  on  with  fo  much 
A  a  3  rancor. 


35^  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

rancor,  not  only  with  thofe  who  feem  in- 
clined to  oppofe  them,  but  equally  to  thofe 
who  would  remain  neuter. 

Numbers  have  joined  the  army  fince  we 
have  penetrated  into  this  place,  profeffing 
themfelves  loyalifts,  wifhing  to  ferve,  fome 
to  the  end  of  the  war,  fome  only  the  cam- 
paign, a  third  part  of  the  number  have 
arms,  and  till  arms  arrive  for  the  remain- 
der, they  are  employed  in  clearing  the 
roads  and  repairing  the  bridges,  in  which 
the  Americans  are  very  expert. 

We  are  obliged  to  wait  fome  time  in  our 
prefent  pofition,  till  the  roads  are  cleared 
of  the  trees  which  the  Americans  felled 
after  their  retreat.  You  would  think  it 
almoft  impoffible,  but  every  ten  or  twelve 
yards  great  trees  are  laid  acrofs  the  road, 
exclufive  of  fmdler  ones,  efpecially  when 
it  is  confidered  what  a  hafty  retreat  they 
made  of  it.     Repairing  the  bridges  is  a 

work 


THROUGH     A  iM  ERIC  A.  359 

work  of  feme  labor,  added  to  which,  a  ftock 
of  provifions  muft  be  brought  up  previous 
to  our  marching  to  Fort  Edward.  We  He 
under  many  difadvantages  in  profecuting 
this  war,  from  the  impediments  I  have 
ftated,  and  we  cannot  follow  this  great  mi- 
litary maxim,  "  in  good  fuccefs  puili  the 
*"*  advantage  as  far  as  you  can." 

While  this  part  of  the  army  is  thus  em- 
ployed, the  remainder  are  conveying  the 
gun-boats,  batteaux  and  provifion  vefTels 
into  Lake  George,  to  fcour  that  lake,  and 
fecure  the  future  route  of  our  magazines  ; 
when  that  force  is  ready  to  move  down  the 
lake,  the  army  will  proceed  to  poffcfs  Fort 
Edward,  by  which  means  the  enemy,  if 
they  do  not  abandon  Fort  George,  muft 
inevitably  be  caught,  as  they  will  be  en- 
clofed  by  the  two  armies,.  Daring  thefe 
movements  General  Reidefel  is  to  make  a 
diverfion  into  Connecticut,  and  reconnoitre 
the  country,  and  by  that  feint  to  draw  the 
A  a  4  attention 


360  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

attention  of  the  Americans  to  almoft  every 
quarter. 

Our  fuccefTes,  no  doubt,  muft  have  ope- 
rated ftrongly  on  the  mind  of  the  enemy, 
and  they  will  be  equally  as  anxious  to  adopt 
meafures  for  Hopping  the  progrefs  of  our 
army,  as  to  prevent  the  imminent  danger 
the  northern  colonies  are  expofed  to. 

On  Sunday  laft  a  thankfgiving  fermon 
was  preached,  for  the  fuccefs  of  our  arms, 
after  which  there  was  2ifeu  de  joie  fired  by 
the  whole  army,  with  artillery  and  fmall 
arms ;  the  fermon  was  preached  by  the 
clergyman  v/hom  I  have  made  mention  of, 
and  an  exceeding  good  one  it  was,  for  a 
parifh  church,  but  not  in  the  leaft  appli- 
cable to  the  occafion. 

By  the  beft  intelligence  that  can  be  gain- 
ed, we  are  informed,  that  General  Schuy- 
ler is  at  Fort  Edward,  colle6ling  the  militia 

from 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  361 

from  the  adjacent  countries,  which,  with 
the  remains  of  their  broken  ai^my,  is  to 
form  a  fufficient  body  for  making  a  ftand 
at  this  place.  Their  fliattered  army  have 
fuffered  incredible  hardfliips  from  the  want 
of  provifions,  and  the  neceflaries  to  cover 
them,  from  the  inceflant  rains  that  have 
fell  of  late,  as  they  were  compelled  to  make 
a  week's  circuit  through  the  woods,  before 
they  could  reach  Fort  Edward,  in  order  to 
avoid  the  various  ftrong  detachments  that 
we  had  in  different  parts,  on  the  Connec- 
ticut fide. 

I  omitted  to  mention  to  you,  that  your 
old  friend  Captain  H — ,  was  wounded  at 
the  battle  of  Huberton,  early  in  the  aclion, 
when  the  grenadiers  formed  to  fupport  the 
light  infantry.  I  could  not  pafs  by  him  as 
he  lay  under  a  tree,  where  he  had  fcrambled 
upon  his  hands  and  knees,  to  protect  him 
from  the  fcattering  fliot,  without  going  up 
to  fee  what  alliftance  could  be  afforded  him, 

and 


362  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

and  learn  if  he  was  feverely  wounded.  You 
who  know  his  ready  turn  for  wit,  will  not 
be  furprized  to  hear,  though  in  extreme 
agony,  that  with  an  arch  look,  and  clap- 
ping his  hand  behind  him,  he  told  me,  if 
I  wanted  to  be  fatisfied,  I  mufl  alk  that, 
as  the  ball  had  entered  at  his  hip,  and  paf- 
fed  through  a  certain  part  adjoining  :  he  is 
now  at  Ticonderoga,  and,  from  the  laft  ac- 
count, is  recovering  fafl. 

We  march  to-morrow,  and  on  our  ar- 
rival at  Fort  Edward  you  may  depend  upon 
hearing  from. 

Yours,  &c. 


LET^ 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  36  J 


LETTER        XXXV. 


Camp  at  Fort  Ednvard,  Auguji  6,  1 777. 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

T  T  r  E  are  arrived  at  this  place,  in  which 
^  ^  it  was  thought  the  enemy  would 
have  made  a  ftand,  but  upon  intelligence 
of  our  advancing,  they  precipitately  aban- 
doned it,  as  they  did  the  garrifon  of 'Ticon- 
deroga.  Very  fortunately  for  the  garrifon 
of  Fort  George,  they  had  paiTed  this  place 
about  an  hour  before  our  arrival  j  had  they 
been  that  much  later,  they  mufl  have  been 
inevitably  cut  off. 

The 


364  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

The  country  between  our  late  encamp- 
ment at  Skeneiborough  and  this  place,  vvas 
a  conthiuation  of  woods  and  creeks,  inter- 
fperfed  with  deep  moraffes  3  and  to  add  to 
thefe  natural  impediments,  the  enemy  h  id 
very  induflriouDy  augmented  them,  by 
felling  immenfe  trees,  and  various  other 
modes,  that  it  was  with  the  utmoft  pains 
and  fatigue  we  could  work  our  way  through 
them.  Exclufive  of  thefe,  the  watery 
grounds  and  marlhes  were  fo  numerous, 
that  we  were  under  the  necelTity  of  con- 
ftru6ling  no  lefs  than  forty  bridges  to  pafs 
them,  and  over  one  morafs  there  was  a 
bridge  of  near  two  miles  in  length. 

In  our  march  through  tliis  wildernefs, 
as  it  may  with  propriety  be  called,  we  met 
with  very  little  difficulty  from  the  Ame- 
ricans. They  fometimes,  when  our  people 
were  removing  the  obftruclions  we  had 
continually  to  encounter,  would  attack 
them,  but  as  they  were   only  ftraggling 

parties 


THROUGH    AMERICA^  365 

parties,  they  were  eafily  repulfed.  The 
diilance  from  our  late  encampment  to  this 
place  was  fmall,  but  the  many  obftaclcs 
the  enemy  had  thrown  in  our  way,  made 
it  a  matter  of  aftoniihment,  confidering 
the  laborious  march  we  had  undergone, 
that  we  fliould  arrive  fo  foon. 

On  our  way,  we  marched  acrofs  the 
Pine-plains,  which  derive  their  name  from 
an  extenfive  fpace  of  level  countiy,  on 
which  grows  nothing  but  very  lofty  pine- 
trees.  On  thefe  plains  we  frequently  met 
with  the  enemy's  encampment,  and  about 
tlie  center  of  them,  upon-  Ibme  rifmg 
ground,  there  were  exceeding  (trong  works, 
defended  by  an  immenfe  abbatis,  where  it 
was  thought  they  would  wait  our  approach. 
But  this  poiition  was  not  fuited  to  the 
Americans,  for  if  their  lines  were  forced, 
their  rear  was  an  open  extent  of  country. 
It  is  a  general  obfervation,  that  they  never 
make  a  fland  but  upon  an  eminence,  al- 

moil 


366  INTERIOR    TRAVELa 

mofl:  inacceflible,  and  a  wood  to  cover  their 
retreat. 

At  this  encampment  the  expe6led  In- 
^ans  have  joined  us ;  they  feem  to  polTefs 
more  bravery,  and  much  more  humanity, 
than  thofe  v^ho  accompanied  us  acrofs  Lake 
Champlain,  as  the  following  little  anecdote 
will  convince  you : 

A  few  days  lince  feveral  of  them  fell  in 
with  a  fcouting  party  of  the  Americans, 
and  after  a  little  fkirmifh,  the  enemy  fled 
to  their  batteaicx,  and  rowed  acrofs  the 
river.  The  Indians  fired  at,  but  could  not 
reach  them,  and  being  greatly  exafperated 
at  their  making  their  efcape,  perceiving  a 
hog-trough,  they  put  their  fire-arms  into 
it,  ftripped  and  fwam  acrofs  the  river,  pufh- 
ing  the  hog-trough  before  them.  The 
Indians  gained  the  Ihore  lower  down  than 
the  Americans,  furprized  and  took  them 

prifoners, 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  367 

prifoners,  and  brought  them  back  in  the 
batteaux  acrofs  the  river. 


One  of  the  Americans,  a  very  brave 
fellow,  was  wounded  in  the  fkirmifli,  and 
unable  to  walk,  when  the  Indians  brought 
him  upon  their  backs  for  near  three  miles, 
with  as  much  care  and  attention  as  if  he 
had  been  one  of  their  own  people. 

As  the  Indians  approached  the  camp, 
we  were  all  apprized  of  their  bringing  in 
feme  prifoners,  by  their  fetting  up  the 
war  hoop ;  but  every  one  was  aftoniflied, 
and  as  equally  pleafed  at  their  humanity, 
in  beholding  an  Indian  bringing  on  his 
back  the  chief  of  the  party.  He  was 
taken  before  General  Frafer,  but  would 
give  no  anfv/er  to  any  queftion,  and  be- 
haved in  the  mofl  undaunted  manner.  The 
General  imagining  that  by  fiiewing  him 
attention  he  might  gain  fome  information 
from  him,  ordered  liim  fome  refrefiiment, 

and 


368  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

and  when  the  Surgeon  had  examined  his 
wound,  told  him  he  muft  immediately 
undergo  an  amputation,  w^hich  being  per- 
formed, he  was  requefled  to  keep  himfelf 
Hill  and  quiet,  or  a  locked  jaw  would  ine- 
vitably enfue  j  to  this  he  replied  v\4th  great 
firmnefs,  "  then  I  fhall  have  the  pleafure 
"  of  dying  in  a  good  caufe,  that  of  gaining 
"  independence  to  the  American  Colonies.'* 
I  mention  this  circumftance,  to  fhew  how 
chearfuUy  fome  of  them  will  facrifice  their 
lives  in  purfuit  of  this  favorite  idol.  Such 
was  the  man's  refllefs  difpofition,  that  he 
aftually  died  the  next  morning.  This 
death  was  generally  regretted,  as  one 
among  the  very  few  who  acl  from  prin- 
ciple J  had  he  furvived,  a  different  ftate- 
ment  of  the  cafe  might  have  rendered  him 
as  ftrenuous  a  loyalifl,  as  great  a  hero,  as 
he  was  a  ftubborn  rebel. 

To  thofe  who  have   httn  averfe  to  our 
employing  Indians,  a  melancholy  inftance 

was 


THROUGH    AMfiRlCA.  369 

Was  lately  afforded,  that  will  afrefli  fliarpen  ^ 
their  arguments  againfl  the  maxim,  and 
as  the  matter  will  certainly  be  greatly  exag- 
gerated, when  the  accounts  of  it  arrive  in 
England,  I  fliall  relate  to  you  the  circum- 
ftance,  as  it  really  happened,  and  clearly 
point  out  the  misfortune  not  to  be  the 
effeA  of  their  natural  barbarity,  but  a 
difputed  point  of  war. 

A  young  lady,  whofe  parents  being  well 
affefled  to  Government,  had  abandoned 
their  habitation  to  avoid  the  ill  treat- 
ment of  the  Americans,  and  left  their 
child  alone  in  it,  who,  upon  the  approach 
of  our  army,  was  determined  to  leave 
her  father's  houfe  and  join  it,-  as  a  young 
man,  to  whom  flie  was  on  the  point  of 
being  married,  was  an  officer  in  the  pro- 
vincial troops.  Some  Indians,  who  were 
out  upon  a  fcout,  by  chance  met  with  her 
in  the  woods  ;  they  at  firft  treated  her  with 
every  mark  of  civility  they  are  capable  of, 

Vol.  I.         '  B  b  and 


3/0  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

and  were  conducing  her  into  camp  ;  when 
within  a  mile  of  it,  a  difpute  arofe  between 
the  two  Indians,  whofe  prifoner  Ihe  was, 
and  words  growing  very  high,  one  of  them, 
who  was  fearful  of  lofmg  the  reward  for 
bringing  her  fafe  into  camp,  moil  inhu- 
manly ftruck  his  tomahawk  into  her  Ikull, 
and  flie  inftantly  expired. 

The  fituation  of  the  General,  whofe  hu- 
manity was  much  fhocked  at  fuch  an  in- 
ftanee  of  barbarity,  was  vei*y  diftrefling  and 
critical ;  .for  however  inclined  he  might  be 
to  puniih  the  offender,  ffill  it  was  hazard- 
ing the  revenge  of  the  Indians,  v^^hofe 
friendfliip  he  had  to  court,  rather  than 
to  feek  their  enmity. 

The  Chief  of  the  tribe  to  which  the  In- 
dian belonged,  readily  confented  to  his 
being  delivered  up  to  the  General,  to  a6l 
with  him  as  he  thought  proper;  but  at  the 
fame  time  faid,  it  was  the  rules  of  their 

war. 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  37I 

war,  that  if  two  of  them  at  the  fame  in- 
ftant  feized  a  prifoner,  and  feemed  to  have 
an  equal  claim,  in  cafe  any  difpute  arofe 
between  them,  they  icon  decided  the  con- 
teft,'  for  the  unhappy  caufe  was  fure  to 
become  a  viclim  to  their  contention. 

Thus  fell  a  poor  unfortunate  young 
lady,  whofe  death  muft  be  univerfaily 
lamented.  I  am  afraid  you  will  accufe 
me  of  great  apathy,  and  conclude  the  fcenes 
of  war  to  have  hardened  my  feelings,  \\  hen 
I  fay,  that  this  circumftance,  put  in  com- 
petition with  all  the  horrors  attendant  on 
this  unfortunate  conteft,  and  which,  in  all 
probability,  are  likely  to  increafe  hourly,  is 
but  of  little  moment* 

The  General  fnewed  great  refentment  to 

the  Indians  upon  this  occafion,  and  laid 

i-^ftraints  upon  their  difpolitions  to  commit 

other  enormities.     He  was  the  more  exaf-' 

B  b  ■?,  peratCvj, 


372  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

perated,  as  they  were  Indians  of  the  remotei* 
tribes  who  had  been  guilty  of  this  offence, 
•and  whom  he  had  been  taught  to  look 
upon  as  more  warlike.  I  believe,  however, 
he  has  found  equal  depravity  of  principle 
reigns  throughout  the  whole  of  them,  and 
the  only  pre-eminence  of  the  remoter  tribes 
coiifills  in  their  ferocity. 

From  this  time  there  was  an  apparent, 
.change  in  their  tempers  j  their  ill  humor 
and  mutinous  difpofition  flrongly  mani- 
fefted  itfelf,  when  they  found  the  plunder 
of  the  country  was  controuled  -,  their  inter- 
preters, who  had  a  douceur  in  the  rapacity, 
being  likewife  debarred  from  thofe  emolu- 
ments, were  profligate  enough  to  promote 
dilTention,  defertion  and  revolt. 

In  this  inftance,  however,  Monficur  St, 
Luc  is  to  be  acquitted  of  thcfe  fo6lions, 
though  I  believe  he  was  but  too  fenfible  of 

their 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  373 

tiieir  pining  after  the  accuftomed  horrors, 
and  that  they  were  become  as  impatient  of 
his  controul  as  of  all  other :  however,  thro' 
the  pride  and  interefl  of  authority,  and  at 
the  fame  time  the  affe6lionate  love  he  bore 
to  his  old  aflbciates,  he  was  induced  to 
cover  the  real  caufe  under  frivolous  pre- 
tences of  complaint. 

On  the  4tli  inftant,  at  the  prefling  in- 
ftance  of  the  above  gentleman,  a  council 
was  called,  when,  to  the  General's  great 
aftonifhment,  thofe  nations  he  had  the 
dire6lion  of,  declared  their  intention  of  re- 
turning home,  at  the  fame  time  demanding 
the  General  to  concur  with  and  aflill  them. 
This  event  was  extremely  embarrafling,  as 
it  was  giving  up  part  of  the  force  which 
had  been  obtained  at  a  great  expence  to 
Government,  and  from  whofe  alTiflance 
fo  much  was  looked  for  :  on  the  other  hand, 
if  a  cordial  reconciliation  was  made  with 
them,  it  mufl  be  by  an  indulgence  in  all 
B  b  3  tlieir 


374  INTERIOR    TRAVELS' 

their  excefres  of  blood  and  rapine.  Never- 
thelefs  the  General  was  to  give  an  imme- 
diate anfwer  j  he  firmly  refufed  their  pro- 
pofal,  infifted  upon  their  adherence  to  the 
reflraints  that  had  been  eitabliilied,  and 
at  the  fame  time,  in  a  temperate  manner, 
reprefented  to  them  their  ties  of  faith,  of 
generofity  and  honor,  adding  many  other 
perfuafive  arguments,  to  encourage  them  in 
continuing  their  fervices.    • 

This  anfwer  feemed  to  have  fome  weight 
with  them,  as  many  of  the  tribes  neareft 
home  only  begged,  that  fome  part  of  them 
might  be  permitted  to  return  to  their  har- 
vefl,  which  was  granted.  Some  of  the  re- 
mote tribes  feemed  to  retra6t  from  their 
propofal,  profelTing  great  zeal  for  the  fer- 
vice. 

Notwithftanding  this,  to  the  ailonifli- 
ment  of  the  General,  and  every  one  be- 
longing to  the  army,  the   defertion  took 

place 


THROUGH    A  ME  ■RICA.  27$ 

place  the  next  day,  when  they  went  away 
by'fcores,  loaded  with  fuch  plunder  as  they 
had  collecSted,  and  have  continued  to  do  fo 
daily,  till  fcarce  one  of  thofe  that  joined  us 
at  Skenefborough  is  left. 

It  is  with  great  pleafure  I  acquaint  you 
that  Major  Ackland  is  fo  far  recovered,  as 
to  afTume  his  command  of  the  grenadiers  ; 
he  arrived  at  the  camp  yeflerday,  accom- 
panied by  the  amiable  Lady  Harriet,  who, 
in  the  opening  of  the  campaign,  was  re- 
trained, by  the  pofitive  injunction  of  her 
hufband,    from  fharing    the   fatigue  and 
hazard  that  was  expedted  before  Ticonde- 
roga.     But  (he  no  fooner  heard  that  the 
Major  was  wounded,  than  fne  crofled  Lake 
Champlain  to  join  him,  determined  to  fol- 
low his  fortunes  the  remainder  of  the  cam- 
paign. 

That  your   partner   in  the   connubial 

flate,   fhould  you  be  induced  to  change 

B  b  4  your 


'^'j(>  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

your  fituation,  may  prove  as  afFeclIonatc, 
and  evince  as  tender  an  anxiety  for  your 
v^^elfare,  as  Lady  Harriet,  on  all  occafions 
fliews  for  that  of  the  Major,  is  the  ardent 
wilh  of 


YourSj  6cc. 


LET- 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  377 


LETTER        XXXVl. 


Camp  at  Fort  Eil-vjard,  Aug.  8,  1777- 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

T  Tl  7'E  flill  remain  at  this  encampment, 
^  ^  till  provifions  are  brought  up  to 
enable  us  to  move  forv/ard,  and  notwith- 
ftanding  thefe  delays  in  our  convoys  and 
floresj  it  will  certainly  be  thought  we  remain 
too  long  for  an  army  whofe  bufinefs  is  to 
a6l  ofFenfively,  and  whofe  firft  motion,  ac- 
cording to  the  maxims  of  war,  fliould  con- 
tribute, as  foon  as  pofllble,  to  the  execution 
of  the  intended  expedition. 

I  know 


2yS  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

I  know  it  will  be  the  general  obfervation 
in  England,  that  we  ought,  after  we  had 
penetrated  thus  far,  to  have  made  our  way 
to  Albany  by  rapid  marches,  it. being  no 
more  than   fifty  miles  diftant  from  this 
place.     In  this  inftance  it  is  to  be  confi- 
dered,  how  the  troops  are  to  pafs  two  great 
rivers,  the  Hudfon  alid  the  Mohawk,  with- 
out batteaux;  to  form  a  bridge,  or  water- 
raft,  to  convey  large  bodies  at  once,  even 
admitting  the  contrivance  of  a  bridge  of 
rafts  to   pafs  the  Hudfon,   and  truft  to 
chance  for  the  pafiage  of  the  Mohawk,  or 
in  cafe  of  a  difappointment,  recourfe  to  be 
had  to  the  fords  at  -Schenectady^  which  are 
fifteen  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
and  are  fordable,  except  after  heavy  rains  : 
removing   all  thefe   impediments,     for   a 
rapid  march  the'  foldier  muft  of  courfe  be 
exempted  from  all  perfonal  incumbrances, 
and  reprefentcd  as  jufi:  marching  from  a 
parade   in   England,  for   nothing  can  be 
more  repugnant  to  the  ideas  of  a  rapid 

march. 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  379 

march,  than  the  load  a  foldier  generally 
carries  during  a  campaign,  confifting  of  a 
knapfack,  a  blanket,  a  haverfack  that  con- 
tains his  provifion,  a  canteen  for  water,  a 
hatchet,  and  a  proportion  of  the  equipage 
belonging  to  his  tent ;  thefe  articles,  (and 
for  fuch  a  march  there  cannot  be  lefs  than: 
four  days  provifion)  added  to  his  accoutre- 
ments, arms,  and  fixty  rounds  of  ammu- 
nition, make  an  enormous  bulk,  weighing 
about  fixty  pounds .  As  the  Germans  mufl 
be  included  in  this  rapid  march,  let  me 
point  out  the  incumbrance  they  are  loaded 
with,  exclufive  of  what  I  have  already  de- 
fcribed,  efpecially  their  grenadiers,  who 
have,  in  addition,  a  cap  with  a  very  heavy 
brafs  front,  a  fword  of  an  enormous  fize, 
a  canteen  that  cannot  hold  lefs  than  a  gal- 
lon, and  their  coats  very  long  fkirted.  Pic- 
ture to  yourfelf  a  man  in  this  fituation, 
and  how  extremely  well  calculated  he  is 
for  a  rapid  march. 


It 


380  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

It  may  be  urged,  that  the  men  might  be 
relieved  from  a  confiderable  part  of  this 
burthen,  and  that  they  might  march  free 
from  knapfacks  and  camp  equipage,  being 
diveiled  of  which,  they  might  have  carried 
more  provifion.  Admitting  this  it  v^ould 
not  remedy  the  evil,  it  being  with  great  dif- 
ficulty you  can  prevail  on  a  common  foldier 
to  hufband  his  provifion,  in  any  exigency 
whatever.  Even  in  a  fettled  camp,  a  young 
foldier  has  veiy  fhort  fare  on  the  fourth 
day  after  he  receives  his  provifion  ,  and  on 
a  march,  in  bad  weather  and  bad  roads, 
when  theweary  foot  flips  back  at  every  ftep, 
and  a  curfe  is  provoked  by  the  enormous 
weight  that  retards  him,  it  muft  be  a  very 
patient  veteran,  who  has  experienced  much 
fcarcity  and  hunger,  that  is  not  tempted 
to  throw  the  whole  contents  of  his  haver- 
fack  into  the  mire,  inftances  of  which  I 
faw  on  feveral  of  our  m.arches.  When 
rhey  thought  they  ihould  get  frelli  provi- 
fion 


THROUGH    A  M  E  li  I  C  A.  3 8  I 

fion  at  the  next  encampment,  and  that  only 
when  they  were  loaded  with  four  days  pro- 
vilion  :  the  foldiers  reafon  in  this  manner: 
the  load  is  a  grievous  incumbrance^want 
but  a  little  way  off — and  I  have  often  heard 
them  exclaim,  "  Damn  the  provifions,  we 
"  fhall  get  more  at  the  next  encampment ; 
"  the  General  won't  let  his  Ibldiers  ftarve." 

Confident  with  the  idea  of  rapidity,  it 
is  neceflary  to  carry  forward  more  provi- 
fion  tlian  for  bare  faftenance  during  the 
march,  or  how  were  the  men  to  fubfift 
when  they  arrived  at  Albany,  where  the 
Americans  will  certainly  make  a  (land  r  but 
even  fuppofmg  they  fliould  not,  they  will 
of  courfe  drive  off  all  the  cattle,  and  deffroy 
the  corn  and  corn-mills ;  this  can  only  be 
effe6led  by  carts,  which  could  not  keep 
pace  with  the  arir.y,  there  being  only  one 
road  from  Albany  for  wheel-carriage,  and 
in  many  places  there  •  are  deep  and  wide 

gullies. 


3S2  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

gullies,  where  the  bridges  are  broken,  and 
muft  necefTarily  be  repaired.     This  road  is 
bounded  on  one  fide  by  the  river,  and  on 
the  other  by  perpendicular  afcents,  covered 
with  wood,  where  the  enemy  might  not 
only  greatly  annoy,  but   where,    in  one 
night,  they  could  throw  impediments  in 
our  way,  that  would  take  nearly  the  whole 
of  the  next  day  to  remove,  therefore  every 
idea  of  conveying  more  provifion  than  the 
men  could  carry  on  their  backs  muft  ceafe, 
as  the  time  and  labor  in  removing  thefe 
obftru6Lions,  and  making  new  roads  for  the 
carts  to  pafs,  before  they  could  reach  the 
army,  would  inevitably  be  the  caufe  of  ^ 
famine,  or  the  army  muft  retreat.     All 
notion  of  artillery  is  totally  laid  afide,  as 
in  the  prefent  ftate  of  the  roads,  not  the 
fmalleft  ammunition  tumbril  con  Id  be  car- 
ried with  the  army. 

There  are  many  who  may  he  led  av/ay. 
with  the  ideas  of  a  rapid  march,  and  fay 

that 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  383 

that  artillery  is  ufelefs ;  but  they  can  only 
form  their  opinion  from  the  warmth  of 
their  willies.  It  is  impollible  to  judge,  or 
form  an  opinion,  unlefs  upon  the  fpot, 
for,  fpeaking  within  compafs,  there  are  not 
lei's  than  a  dozen  ilrong  pafles,  fetting. 
afide  the  paffage  of  the  Mohawk ;  where, 
if  ftrengthened  with  abbatis,  which  the 
Americans  are  expert  in  making,  as  they 
never  encamped  a  fuigle  night  without 
throwing  up  works  of  this  fort  in  a  few 
hours,  five  hundred  of  their  militia  would 
ftop,  for  a  time,  ten  times  their  number  of 
the  braveft  troops  in  the  world,  who  had 
ilot  artillery  to  affiil  them. 

Having  ftated  thefe  obje6lions  to  the 
principles  and  prafticability  of  a  rapid 
march,  you  cannot  but  be  fully  convinced 
how  neceiTaiy  it  is  to  advance  with  a  fuffi- 
cient  fapply  of  ftores,  both  of  artillery  and 
provifions  j  and  in  order  to  gain  a  great 

fupply 


384  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

fupply  of  the  latter,  as  well  as  to  provide 
fome  teams  and  oxen,  a  detachment  is  going 
to  Bennington,  to  furprize  a  magazine  of 
the  enemy's,  which  will  enable  the  army  to 
proceed  without  delay,  and  its  Commander 
taprofecute  the  objeft  of  his  expedition. 

Certainly  the  fituation  of  the  General  is 
extremely  trying,  hov/ever  zealoufly  he  is 
inclined,  and  anxious  in  compleating  the 
obje6l  of  his  command.  For  pne  hour 
that  he  can  devote  in  contemplating  how 
to  fight  his  army^  he  mufl  allot  twenty  to 
contrive  how  to  feed  it !  This  inconve- 
nience the  enemy  have  not  to  encounter, 
as  their  army  is  fpeedily  and  regularly  fup- 
plied.with  every  thing,  by  means  of  their 
navigable  rivers,  which  communicate  from 
province  to  province.  An  American  Ge- 
neral has  ■  only  to  teach  his  men  to  fight, 
(that's  a  pretty  difhcult  talk  you'll  fay)  he 
is  never  at  a  lofs  how  to  feed  them. 


It 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  385 

It  is,  from  the  various  circumflances  I 
have  ftated,  greatly  to  be  wifhed,  that  the 
minds  of  fome  men  were  more  open  to 
conviclion,  to  form  their  opinions  with  the 
greater  Hberahty  of  fentiment. 

A  few  days  fmce  I  went  from  this  to 
Fort  George,  relative  to  fome  artillery 
ftores,  at  which  place  I  had  an  opportu- 
nity of  feeing  Lake  George,  which,  altho* 
confiderably  fmaller  than  Lake  Champlain^ 
in  my  opinion  exceeds  it  far  in  point  of 
beauty  and  diverfity  of  fcene. 

About  the  center  of  the  lake  there  are 
two  illands,  on  the  largeft  of  which,  called 
Diamond  Ifland,  are  encamped  two  compa- 
nies of  the  47th  regiment,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Captain  Aubrey,  for  the  purpofe 
of  forwarding  the  provilions  acrofs  the 
lake.  This  ifland,  as  well  as  the  one  that 
is  clofe  to  it,  formerly  was  fo  over-run  with 
rattle-fnakes,  that  perfons  when  they  palTed 

Voh.  L  C  c  the 


3^6  IN  T^E  R  I O  R     TRAVELS 

the  lake  feldom  or  ever  ventured  on  theni. 
A  baftemioe-  in  failing  up  it,  overfet  near 
Diamond  liland,  and  among  other  things 
it  contained  feveral  hogs,  which  fwam  to 
the  fhore,  as  did  the  Canadians  who  were 
rowing  it  up  :  the  latter,  in  apprehenfion 
of  the^  i-attle-fnakes,  climbed  up  trees  for 
the  night,  and  tlie  next  morning  obferving 
a  batteaux,  they  hailed  the  people  in  it,  who 
took  them  m  and  conveyed  them  to  Fort 
George* 

Some  time  after  th^  man  who  ov/ned  the 
hogs,  being  unwilling  to  lofe  them,  return- 
ed down  the  lake,  and  with  fome  comrades 
ventured  a  fearch.  After  traverfmg  the 
ifland  a  confiderable  time,  they  at  laft  foiind 
them,  but  fo  prodigioully  fat,  that  they 
could  fcarcely  move,  and  in  their  fearch 
only  met  with  one  rattle-fnake,  which 
greatly  furprized  them,  as  the  ifland  was 
reported  to  abound.  Their  wonder,  how 
ever,  was  not  of  long  duration,  for  being 

fhort 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  387 

fhort  of  provifions,  they  killed  one  of  the 
hoffs,  the  ilomach  of  which  was  filled  with 
rattle-fnakes,  and  from  this  circumftance 
it  was  natural  to  conclude  the  hogs  had  de- 
voured them  fmce  their  landing. 

This  was  related  to  me  by  a  perfon  on 
whofe  veracity  I  can  depend,  and  feveral 
of  the  inhabitants  have  informed  me  fmce, 
that  if  a  hog  happens  to  meet  a  rattle- 
fnake,  it  will  immediately  attack  and  de- 
vour it. 

As  I  am  on  the  fubje6l  of  rattle-fnakes, 
and  this  country  greatly  abounding  with 
them,  permit  me  to  defcribe  to  you  thofe 
reptiles,  which  I  am  the  better  enabled  to 
do,  having  feen  one  killed  yefterday.  It 
was  about  a  yard  long,  and  about  three 
inches  in  circumference,  in  its  thickell  part; 
it  had  feven  rattles  at  the  end  of  its  tail, 
and  according  to  the  number  of  thefe 
C  c  2  rattles, 


388  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

rattles,  its  age  is  afcertained^  every  year 
producing  an  additional  one,  fixed  by  a 
fmall  ligament  within  the  other,  and 
being  hollow,  the  quick  motion  of  the  tail 
occafions  a  noife  fo  peculiar  to  itfelf,  that 
I  cannot  mention  any  thing  fimilar  to  it. 
The  fcales  of  thefe  rattle-fnakes  are  of 
variegated  colors,  and  extremely  beautiful, 
the  head  is  finall,  with  a  very  quick  and 
piercing  eye ;  their  flelh,  notwithftanding 
the  venom  they  are  polTefTed  of,  is  very  de- 
licious, far  fuperior  to  that  of  an  eel,  and 
produces  a  very  rich  foup. 

The  bite  of  thefe  reptiles  is  certain  death, 
unlefs  proper  remedies  are  applied.  Pro- 
vidence has  been  fo  attentive  to  our  prefer- 
vation  (a  pretty  remark  you'll  fay  this,  to 
come  from  a  foldier,  who  is  contributing 
daily  his  affiilance  to  the  deftroying  and 
maiming  hundreds),  that  near  to  where 
thefe  reptiles  refort,  there  grows  a  plant, 
with  a  large  broad  leaf,  called  plaijitaini 

which 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  389 

which  being  bruifed  and  applied  to  the 
wound,  is  a  fure  antidote  to  the  ill  effefts 
of  its  venom.  The  virtues  of  this  plant 
were  difcovered  by  a  negro  in  Virginia,  for 
which  he  obtained  his  liberty  and  a  penfion 
for  life. 

This  difcovery,  like  many  others  equally 
furprizing,  was  the  mere  efFe6l  of  chance. 
This  poor  negro  having  been  bit  by  one 
of  thefe  fnakes,  in  the  leg,  it  fwelled  in  an 
inflant  to  fuch  a  degree,  that  he  was  un- 
able to  walk ;  lying  down  on  the  grafs  in 
great  anguiili,  he  gathered  fome  of  this 
plant,  and  chewing  it,  applied  it  to  the 
wound,  imagining  it  would  cool  the  in- 
flammation; this  giving  him  inftant  re- 
lief, he  renewed  the  application  feveral 
times,  and  the  fwelling  abated,  fo  as  to 
enable  him  to  walk  home  to  his  mailer's 
plantation ;  after  repeating  the  fame  for 
the  fpace  of  two  or  three  days,  he  was 
perfedly  recovered. 

C  c  3  But 


390  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

But  however  furrounded  I  may  be  with 
venomous  reptiles,  the  clank  of  arms,  and 
horrors  of  war,  reft  aflured  that  neither 
diftance,  time,  nor  place,  can  erafe  the  idea 
of  friendfhip,  nor  the  fweet  thoughts  of 
what  is  left  behind  ever  be  lefTened  in  the 
breaft  of 

Yours,  &c. 


LET- 


THROUGii    AMEJ^J^A.  39I 


LETTER        XXXVII. 


Camp  at  Batteti  Kill,  Augvft  24,  1777« 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

IT  is  with  the  utmoft  concern  I  tell  you 
the  expedition  to  Bennington  has  fail- 
•ed,  and  great  numbers  made  prifoners : 
This  no  doubt  will  be  a  matter  of  great 
exultation  to  the  Americans,  and  diveft 
them  of  thofe  fears  they  had  entertained- 
of  the  German  troops,  efpecially  as  they 
have  been  defeated  by  a  fet  of  raw  militia. 
In  this  enterprize  the  General  left  nothing 
for  chance  to  do,  but  planned  every  thing 
his  wifdom  could  fuggeft  to  efFe6t  it,  and 
the  proje61:  would  have  anfwered  many 
C  c  4  dehrable 


392  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

defirable  ends,   had  the  execution  of  it 
proved  as  fortunate  as  the  plan  was  judi- 


cious. 


In  fome  former  letter  I  laid  much  ftrefs^ 
againft  a  rapid  movement,  and  endeavored 
to  point  out  to  you  the  total  impra6licabi- 
lity  of  it.  I  need  only  add  another  argu- 
ment to  imprefs  you  fully  with  the  fame 
fentiments.  The  army  could  no  more 
proceed  without  hofpital  flores,  than  it 
could  without  provifionSj  for  depend  upon 
it,  the  General  who  carries  troops  into  fire, 
without  precautions  to  alleviate  the  certain 
confequences,  is  fure  to  alienate  their  af- 
fections, and  damp  their  ardor  s  it  is  ex- 
acting more  than  human  fpirit  is  able  to 
fuftain.  It  is  not  neceffary  for  you  to  be 
accuftomed  to  fields  of  battle,  to  be  con- 
vinced of  truth ;  let  your  mind  only  reft 
for  a  moment  on  the  objefts  that  prefent 
themfelves  after  an  a6lion,  and  then  re- 
fle6l,  there  is  not  a  mattrafs  for  broken 

bones. 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  393 

bones,  nor  a  cordial  for  agony  and  faint-- 
nefs.  Thofe  whofe  ideas  are  continually 
marching  with  a  much  greater  rapidity 
than  ever  an  army  did,  fuppofe  no  oppo- 
fition,  and  no  fuifering  from  wounds. 
The  many  helplefs  and  in  agonies,  who 
mufl  be  cruelly  abandoned  ( fuppofmg  the 
reft  could  be  prevailed  on  to  abandon  thofe 
whofe  cafe  might  the  next  day  be  their 
own)  make  no  confideration  with  men  of 
precipitate  imagination.  I  fliall  clofe  this 
fubjedl  with  obferving,  that  in  my  opi- 
nion, a  General  is  refponfible  to  God  and 
his  country  for  the  armies  he  condu6ls, 
and  that  he  cannot  eafily  overlook  thofe 
objects  i  however  anxious  he  may  be,  he 
muft  be  patient  till  a  few  hundred  beds, 
and  a  proper  proportion  of  medicine  and 
chirurgical  materials,  can  be  brought  up 
for  troops  that  arc  to  jight  as  well  as 
march* 


In 


3  94  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

In  order  to  take  advantage  of  the  fuc- 
cefs  that  v/as  expected  from  the  expedition 
to  Bennington,  the  army  moved  to  the 
eafl  fide  of  Hudfon's  river,  and  on  the 
14th,  a  bridge  of  rafts  was  conftru6led, 
over  which  the  advanced  corps  paiTed,  and 
encamped  on  the  heights  at  Saratoga. 

Whatever  was  the  caufe  of  the  failure 
of  the  expedition  to  Bennington,  of  which 
many  appear,  the  principal  one  feems  to 
have  been  the  delay  of  the  reinforcement 
that  was  fent  to  fupport  the  firll  detatch- 
ment,  which  was  from  eight  o'clock  in 
the  morning  to  four  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon of  next  day,  marching  two  and 
twenty  miles  j  the  advanced  corps,  not  only 
at  the  time  the  Germans  were  fent,  but  at 
the  failure  of  it,  felt  themfelves  much 
hurt,  thinking  it  was  a  duty  they  ought 
to  have  been  employed  on,  and  it  was  not 
till  after  its  failure,  that  impreffion  was 

erafed 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  395 

erafed  from  their  minds,  by  being  inform- 
ed they  were  refei*ved  for  more  important 
fervices ;  for  in  cafe  that  expedition  had 
proved  fuccefsfulj  the  advanced  corps  were 
to  have  puflied  forward  to  the  heights 
of-  Still  -  Water,  and  intrenched  there 
till  the  army  and  provifions  could  have 
joined  j  by  this  means  the  whole  country 
on  the  weft  fide  of  the  river  to  tl:ke  banks 
of  the  Mohawk,  would  have  been  in  our 
pofleflion. 

A  few  days  after  we  had  encamped  at 
the  heights  of  Saratoga,  the  bridge  of  rafts 
was  carried  away  by  the  torrents  occafion- 
ed  by  the  late  heavy  fall  of  rain,  and  our 
communication  cut  off  from  the  main 
body.  If  the  enemy  after  the  late  fuccefTes, 
in  our  prefent  fituation,  had  been  induced 
to  attack  us,  the  General  would  have  found 
himfelf  in  a  very  bad  pofition,  and  un- 
able to  take  a  better,  as  the  advanced 
corps  could  not  be  fupported  by  the  line  j 

the 


396  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

the  only  means  of  retreat  would  have  been 
under  the  cover  of  our  artillery,  therefore 
our  corps  vi^ere  recalled,  after  the  a6lion 
at  Bennington,  and  v^ere  obliged  to  crofs 
the  river  in  boats  and  fcowls,  and  take  up 
our  old  encampment  at  this  place. 

The  Mohawk  nation,  which  are  called 
Sir  William  Johnfon's  Indians,  as  having 
their  village  near  his  plantation,  and  who, 
in  his  life-time,  was  continually  amongft 
them,  were  driven  from  their  village  by 
the  Americans,  and  have  joined  our  army: 
they  have  come  with  their  fquaws,  children, 
cattle,  horfes  and  fheep,  and  are  encamped 
at  the  creek  from  whence  this  place  takes 
its  name ;  when  the  army  crofs  the  river, 
the  fqiiaws  and  children  are  to  go  to  Ca- 
nada, and  the  men  to  remain. 

Upon  their  arrival  I  vifited  them  at 
their  encampment,  and  had  an  opportu- 
nity of  obferving  the  mode  they  adopt  in 

training 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  397 

training  up  their  children.  They  are  in 
a  manner  amphibious  j  there  were  feveral 
of  the  men  bathing  in  the  creek ;  and  a 
number  of  little  children,  the  eldeft  could 
not  be  more  that  fix  years  old,  and  thefe 
little  creatures  had  got  into  the  middle  of 
the  creek  upon  planks,  which  they  pad- 
dled along,  fometimes  fitting,  then  fland- 
ing  on  them,  and  if  they  overbalance  tlie 
plank,  and  Hip  oif  with  a  dexterity  almofl 
incredible,  they  get  on  it  again ;  as  to  div- 
ing, they  will  keep  a  confiderable  time 
under  water,  neai-ly  two  or  three  minutes. 

The  mode  of  confining  their  young 
infants,  is  by  binding  them  flat  on  their 
backs  to  a  board,  and  as  they  are  fwad- 
dled  up  to  their  head,  it  makes  them  re- 
femble  living  mummies  j  this  method  of 
binding  their  young,  I  am  led  to  imagine, 
is  the  caufe  of  that  perfefl  fymmetry 
among  the  men.  A  deformed  Indian  is 
rare  to  be  met  with ;  the  women  would 

be 


39^  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

be  equally  as  perfe6l,  but  as  they  grow 
up,  they  acquire  a  habit,  it  being  deemed 
an  ornament,  of  fo  turning  in  the  feet,  that 
their  toes  almoft  meet  5  the  fquaws,  after 
iKz  have  fuckled  their  infants,  if  they  fall 
afleep,  lay  them  on  the  ground,  if  not 
they  hang  the  board  they  are  fwaddled  to 
on  the  branch  of  a  tree,  and  fwing  them 
till  they  do;  upon  a  march,  they  tie 
thefe  boards,  with  their  infants,  on  their 
backs. 

As  the  river  is  fubjecl  to  continual  tor- 
rents and  increafe  of  water,  a  bridge  of 
boats  is  now  conftru61ing,  to  preferve  a 
communication  with  both  fides  of  the  river, 
which  when  compleated,  the  advanced 
Corps  are  to  pafs  over,  and  encamp  at 
Saratoga. 

I  am  interrupted  by  the  cries  of  foiriie 
Indians  who  are  fetting  up  the  war  v/hoop, 
on  thdr  bringing  in  prifoners.    " 

When 


THROUGH    AMERICA^  299 

When  they  arrive,  as  they  imagine,  in 
hearing  of  the  camp,  they  fet  up  the  waf 
whoop,  as  many  times  as  they  have  iiilhi- 
ber  of  prifoners.  It  is  tlifficult  to  defcribc 
it  to  you,  and  the  beft  idea  that  I  can  fcon- 
vey  is,  that  it  confifls  in  the  fouhd  of 
whoo,  whooy  whoop !  which  is  continued  tilf 
the  breath  is  almoft  cxhaufted,  ahd  i\icn 
broke  off  with  a  fudden  elevation  of  votct  i 
fome  of  them  modulate  it  into  notes,  by' 
placing  the  hand  before  the  mouth,  but 
both  are  heard  at  a  great  diftance. 

Whenever  they  fcalp,    they  feize    the 
head  of  the  dlfabled  or  dead  enemy,  and 
placing  one  of  their  feet  on  the  neck,  twift 
their  left  hand  in  the  hair,  by  which  m'^ns 
they  extend  the  fkin  that  covers  the  top  of 
the  head;  and  with  the  other  hkrid  draW^ 
their    fcalping   knife    from   thdf  bredft,^ 
which  is  always  kept  in  good  otdfer,*  fo'r^ 
this  cruel  purpofe,  a  few  dextrous  ftrokes 
of  which  takes  off  the  part  that  is  temfidd  the 

fcalp ; 


400  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

fcalp  ',  they  are  fo  exceedingly  expeditious 
in  doing  this,  that  it  fcarcely  exceeds  a 
minute.  If  the  hair  is  fhort,  and  they  have 
no  purchafe  with  their  hand,  they  ftoop, 
and  with  their  teeth  flrip  it  off;  when  they 
have  performed  this  part  of  their  martial 
virtue,  as  foon  as  time  permits,  they  tie 
with  bark  or  deer's  fmews  their  fpeaking 
trophies  of  blood  in  a  fmall  hoop,  to  pre- 
ferve  it  from  putrefaftion,  painting  part  of 
the  fcalp  and  the  hoop  all  round  with  red. 
Thefe  they  preferve  as  monuments  of  their 
prowefs,  and  at  the  fame  time  as  proofs  of 
the  vengeance  they  have  infli6led  on  their 
enemies. 

At  one  of  the  Indian  encampments,  I 
faw  feveral  fcalps  hanging  upon  poles, 
in  front  of  their  ^wigwams;  one  of  them 
had  remarkably  fine  long  hair  hanging  to 
It.  An  ofhcer  that  was  with  me  wanted 
to  purchafe  it,  at  which  the  Indian  feemcd 
highly  offended,  nor  would  he  part  with 

this 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  4OI 

this  barbarous  trophy,  although  he  was 
offered  fo  flrong  a  temptation  as  a  bottle 
of  rum. 

The  appearance  of  a  dead  body,  you 
muft  allow,  is  not  a  pleafnig  fpe6lacle,  but 
when  fcalped  it  is  fliocking ;  two,  in  this 
fituation,  we  met  with,  in  our  march  from 
Skenefborough  to  Fort  Edward.  After  fo 
criiel  an  operation,  you  could  hardly  fup- 
pofe  any  one  could  furvive,  but  when  we 
took  polTelTion  of  Ticonderoga,  we  found 
two  poor  fellows  who  lay  wounded,  that 
had  been  fcalped  in  the  Ikirmifh  the  day 
before  the  Americans  abandoned  it,  and 
who  are  in  a  fair  way  of  recovery.  .  I  have 
feen  a  perfon  who  had  been  fcalped,  and 
was  as  hearty  as  ever,  but  his  hair  never 
grew  again. 

Should  I  at  any  time  be  unfortunate 
enough  to  get  v/ounded,  and  the  Indians 
come  acrofs  me,  with  an  intention  to  fcalp, 

Vol.  L  D  d  it 


402  IxMTERlOR    TRAVELS 

it  would  be  my  wifh  to  receive  at  once  a 
coiip  de  grace  with  their  tomahawk,  which 
in  moft  inflances  they  mercifully  allow. 

This  inflrument  they  make  great  ufe  of 
in  war,  for  in  purfuing  an  enemy,  if  they 
find  it  impoffible  to  come  up  with  them, 
they  with  the  utmoft  dexterity  throw,  and 
feldom  fail  flriking  it  into  the  fkuU  or  back 
of  thofe  they  purfue,  by  that  means  ar- 
refling  them  in  flight.  The  tomahawk  is 
nothing  more  than  a  fmall  hatchet,  having 
either  a  fharp  fpike,  or  a  cup  for  tobacco, 
affixed  oppofite  to  the  part  that  is  intended 
for  cutting,  but  they  are  moftly  made  to 
anfwer  two  purpofes,  that  of  a  pipe  and  a 
hatchet.  When  they  purchafe  them  of  the 
traders,  they  take  off  the  wooden  handle, 
and  fubftitute  in  its  ftead  a  hollow  cane 
one,  which  they  do  in  a  curious  manner. 

I  make  no  doubt  but  it  will  atFord  you 
great  pleafure,  knowing  how  much  you 

are 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  4O3 

are  interelled  in  my  welfare,  when  I  inform 
you  that  I  have  had  feme  promotion,  and 
it  is  the  more  fatisfa6lory  to  myfelf,  as  I 
am  not  removed  out  of  the  advanced  corps, 
it  being  into  the  24th  regiment.  If  1  efcape 
this  campaign,  either  through  intereft  or 
purchafe,  there  are  hopes  of  obtaining  a 
company.  With  my  beft  wifhcs  for  your 
health  and  happinefs,  I  am 


Yours,  &c. 


D d  2  LET. 


404  .INTERIOR     TRAVELS 


LETTER         XXXVIIL 


Camp  at  Freeman's  Farm,  Sept.  24,  1777- 


MY  DEAR   FRIEND, 

'  I  \HE  bridge  of  boats  was  foon  con- 
-■"  flrii6led,  and  thirty  days  provifion 
brought  up  for  the  whole  army.  On  the 
13  th  inftant,  we  pafTed  Hudfon's  river, 
and  encamped  in  the  plains  of  Saratoga, 
at  which  place  there  is  a  handfome  and 
commodious  dwelling-houfe,  with  out- 
houfes,  an  exceeding  fine  faw  and  grift- 
mill,  and  at  a  fmall  diftance  a  very  neat 
church,  with  feveral  houfes  round  it,  all  of 
which  are  the  property  of  General  Schuy- 
ler.  This  beautiful  fpot  was  quite  deferted, 

not 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  '  405 

not  a  living  creature  on  it.  On  the  grounds 
were  great  quantities  of  fine  wheat,  as  alfo 
Indian  corn;  the  former  was  inftantly  cut 
down,  threfhed,  carried  to  the  mill  to  be 
ground,  and  delivered  to  the  men  to  fave 
our  provifions ;  the  latter  was  cut  for  fo- 
rage for  the  horfes. 

Thus  a  plantation,  with  large  crops  of 
feveral  forts  of  grain,  thriving  and  beauti- 
ful in  the  morning,  was  before  night  re- 
duced to  a  fcehe  of  diftrefs  and  poverty ! 
What  havoc  and.  devaftation  is  attendant 
on  war!  Your  coffee-houfe  acquaintance, 
who  fight  battles  over  a  bottle  of  wine, 
and  dictate  what  armies  fliould  do,  were 
danger  only  to  fliew  itfelf  upon  your  coaft, 
and  threaten  an  invafion,  would  inftantly, 
like  the  pofieflbrs  of  this  delightful  fpot,  be 
flying  to  the  moft  interior  parts  of  the 
kingdom. 

D  d  3  On 


406  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

On  the  15th  the  whole  army  made  a 
movement  forward,  and  encamped  at  a 
place  called  Dovacote. 

I  omitted  to  mention  a  fad  accident  that 
happened  to  that  amiable  woman,  Lady 
Harriet  x^ckland,  a  little  before  we  pafTed 
Hudfon's  river,  which  neither  has  altered 
her  refolutjon  nor  her  chearfulnefs,  but 
fhe  continues  her  progrefs,  partaking  the 
fatigues  of  the  advanced  corps. 

Our  fituation,  as  being  the  advanced  pofl 
of  the  army,  was  frequently  fo  very  alert, 
that  we  feldom  llcpt  out  of  our  cloaths. 
In  one  of  thefe  fituations  a  tent,  in  which 
Major  Ackland  and  Lady  Harriet  were 
afleep,  fuddenly  caught  firej  the  Major's 
orderly  ferjeant,  with  great  danger  of  fuf- 
focation,  dragged  out  the  fir  ft  perfon  he 
got  hold  of,  which  was  the  Major.  It 
providentially  happened,  that  in  the  fame 
inflant  Lady  Harriet,  without    knowing 

what 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  407 

what  (lie  did,  and  perhaps  not  perfeftly 
awake,  made  her  efcape,  by  creeping  under 
the  walls  in  the  back  part  of  the  tent,  and 
upon  recovering  her  fenfes,  conceive  what 
her  feelings  muft  be,  when  the  fir  ft  obje6t 
file  beheld  was  the  Major,  in  the  midft  of 
the  flames,  in  fearch  of  her!  Theferjeant 
again  faved  him,  but  the  Major's  face  and 
body  was  burnt  in  a  veiy  fevere  manner : 
every  thing  they  had  with  them  in  the 
tent  was  confumed.  This  accident  was 
occafioned  by  a  favorite  Newfoundland 
dog,  who  being  very  refllefs,  overfet  a  table 
on  which  a  candle  was  burning,  (the  Ma- 
jor always  had  a  light  in  his  tent  during 
the  night,  when  our  fituation  required  it) 
and  it  rolling  to  the  walls  of  the  tent,  in- 
flantly  fet  them  on  fire, 

On  the   17th  the  army  renewed  their 

march,  repairing  a  great  number  of  bridges, 

and    encamped   on   a  very    advantageous 

ground,  at  the  diftance  of  about  four  miles 

D  d  4  from 


408  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

from  the  enemy,  v; ho  are  flrongly  pofled  at 
Still-Water. 


At  our  lail  encampment  a  circumflance 
occurred,  which  though  trifling  in  itfelf, 
inarks  how  provident  nature  has  been  to  the- 
younger  part  of  the  brute  creation.  It  is 
the  cuftom  in  camp  to  picket  the  horfes  in 
the  rear  of  the  tents ;  iii  the  night  I  was 
awaked  with  a  great  ruftling  of  my  tent 
cords,  and  a  fqueaking  noife ;  on  getting 
up,  I  found  it  was  a  little  colt  that  my 
mare  had  foaled.  When,  we  refumed  our 
march  the  next  day,  I  was  much  embar- 
raffed  what  to  do  with  the  colt,  fearful  it 
would  weaken  my  mare,  and  render  her 
unable  to  convey  my  baggage,  but  I  would 
not  have  it  deftroyed  j  and,  believe  me,  this 
little  creature,  only  dropped  the  night  be- 
fore, though  in  a  journey  of  fuch  a  diflance 
as  feventeen  miles,  through  thick  woods 
and  bad  roads,  was  as  gay  and  chearful, 
when  we  arrived  at  our  encampment,  as  if 

it 


THRO  U'G  H    AMERICA.  409 

it  had  be^.n  in  a  meadow,  after  which,  you 
may  be  lure,  I  could  not  find  in  my  heart 
to  make  away  with  it, 

On  the  1 8th,  the  enemy  appeared  in 
force,  to  obllrucl  the  men  who  were  re- 
pairing the  bridges,  and  it  was  imagined 
they  had  a  defign  of  drawing  ns  to  a6lion, 
in  a  fpot  where  artillery  could  not  be  em- 
ployed ;  a  Imall  lofs  was  fuftained  in  Ikir- 
milliing,  _^nd  the  repair  of  the  bridges  was 
efFe6ted.  -jiriur 


At  this  encampment  a  number  of  men 
got  into,  a  potatoe-field,  and  whilft  gather- 
ing them,  a  fcouting  party  of  the  eneiny 
came  aerofs  and  fired  on  them,  killing  and 
wounding  near  thirty,  when-  they  might 
with  eafe  have  furrounded  the  whole  party, 
and  taken  them  prifoners*  Such  cruel  and 
unjuftiiiable  conduct  cair  have  no  good,  ten- 
dency, .  while  it  ferves  greatly  to  increafe 
hatred, .find  a  thirft  for  revenge.    ■  }i'tr.  h'. . 

On 


410  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

On  the  19th,  the  army  marched  to  meet 
the  enemy,  in  three  divifions  ;  the  German 
line  flanked  the  artillery  and  baggage,  pur- 
fuing  the  courfe  of  the  river  through  the 
meadows ;  the  Britifh  line  marched  parallel 
to  it  at  fome  diflance,  through  the  woods, 
forming  the  center  divifion;  whilft  the 
advanced  corps,  with  the  grenadiers  and 
light  infantry  of  the  Germans  made  a  large 
circuit  through  the  woods,  and  compofed 
the  right  hand  divifion  5  on  our  right  there 
were  flanking  parties  of  Indians,  Cana- 
dians and  Provincials. 

The  fignal  guns  for  all  the  columns  to 
advance  were  fired  between  one  and  two 
o'clock,  and  after  an  hour's  march,  the 
advanced  party,  confifling  of  the  picquets 
of  the  center  column,  under  the  command 
of  Major  Forbes,  fell  in  with  a  confider- 
able  body  of  the  enemy,  polled  in  a  houfe 
and  behind  fences,  which  they  attacked, 
and  after  much  firing,  nearly  drove  in  the 

body 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  4II 

body  of  the  Americans,  but  the  woods 
being  filled  with  men,  much  annoyed  the 
picquets,  who  were  very  fortunately  fup- 
ported  by  two  companies  of  the  24th  regi- 
ment, one  of  which  happened  to  be  our 
company,  and  a  piece  of  artillery,  which 
General  Frafer  had  detached,  on  hearing 
the  fire  of  Major  Forbes's  party,  and  we 
came  up  juft  as  the  enemy  fled. 

In  this  fkirmifli,  a  bat-man  of  General 
Frafer's  refcued  from  the  Indians  an  officer 
of  the  Americans,  one  Captain  Van  Swear- 
ingham,  of  Colonel  Morgan's  Virginia 
rifle-men  j  they  were  on  the  point  of  ftrip- 
ping  him,  which  the  man  prevented,  and 
recovered  his  pocket-book  from  them,  con- 
taining all  his  papers  of  confequence  and 
his  commiffion.  He  offered  the  foldier  all 
his  paper  dollars,  and  lamented  he  had  no 
bard  ones  to  reward  him  with. 

The 


412  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

The  bat-man  brought  him  up  to  Gene- 
ral Frafer  (who  now  had  come  up  to  the 
two  companies  he  had  detached)  when  he 
interrogated  him  concerning  the  enemy, 
but  could  obtain  no  other  anfwer,  than 
that  their  army  was  com.rnanded  by  Gene- 
rals Gates  and  Arnold.  General  Frafer, 
exceedingly  provoked  that  he  could  gain 
no  intelligence,  told  him  if  he  did  not 
immediately  inform  him  as  to  the  exa6l 
fituation  of  the  enemy,  he  would  hang  him 
"liim  up  dire6lly ;  the  officer,  with  the  moil 
undaunted  firmnefs,  replied,  "  You  may, 
*'  if  you  pleafe."  The  General  perceiving 
he  could  make  nothing  of  him,  rode  off, 
leavmg  him  in  the  cuftody  of  Lieutenant 
Dunbar,  of  the  artillery. 

My  fervant,  jufl  at  this  period,  arrived 
with  my  canteen,  which  was  rather  for- 
tunate, as  we  Itood  in  need  of  fome  re- 
frefhm^ent   after  our  march  through  the 

woods, 


THROUGH    AMERICA*  413 

woods,  and  this  little  fkirmifli.  I  requefled 
Dunbar,  with  his  prilbncr,  to  partake  of 
it,  and  fitting  down  upon  a  tree,  we  alked 
this  Captain  a  variety  of  quellions,  to 
which  he  always  gave  evafive  anfwers,  and 
we  both  obferved  he  was  in  great  fpirits : 
at  laft  I  faid  to  him,  "  Captain,  do  you 
"  think  we  fliall  have  any  more  work  upon 
"  our  hands  to  day?"  to  which  he  replied, 
"  Yes,  yes,  you'll  have  bufmefs  enough, 
"  for  there  are  many  hundreds  all  round 
"  you  now."  He  had  hardly  fpoke  the 
words,  than  from  a  wood  a  little  way  in 
our  front  there  came  an  exceflive  heavy 
fire.  Dunbar  ran  to  his  guns,  faying 
A ,  you  muft  take  charge  of  the  Cap- 
tain. There  being  only  one  officer,  be- 
iides  myfeif,  with  the  company,  I  com- 
mitted him  to  the  cuflody  of  a  ferjeant,  to 
convey  him  to  the  houfe  where  the  reft  of 
the  prifoners  v/ere,  with  particular  orders, 
as  the  General  had  defired,  that  he  fhould 
not  be  ill  treated  3   I  then  haftened  to  my 

company. 


414  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

company,  on  joining  of  which  I  met  a 
number  of  the  men  who  were  retiring 
w^ounded,  and  by  this  time  the  firing  of 
the  enemy  was  fupprefled  by  the  artillery. 

Shortly  after  this  we  heard  a  moil:  tre- 
mendous firing  upon  our  left,  where 
we  were  attacked  in  great  force,  and  the 
very  firfl  fire,  your  old  friend.  Lieutenant 
Don,  of  the  2  ifl  regiment,  received  a  ball 
through  his  heart.  I  am  fure  it  will  never 
be  erafed  it  from  my  memory  5  for  when 
he  was  wounded,  he  fprung  from  the 
ground,  nearly  as  high  as  a  man.  The 
party  that  had  attacked  us  were  again 
drove  in  by  our  cannon,  but  the  fire  raged 
moft  furioufly  on  our  left,  and  the  enemy 
were  marching  to  turn  their  right  flank, 
when  they  met  the  advanced  corps,  polled 
in  a  wood,  who  repulfed  them.  From 
that  time,  which  was  about  three  o'clock, 
till  after  fun-fet,  the  enemy,  who  were 
continually  fuppUed  with   frefh    troops, 

moll 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  415 

moft  vigoroufly  attacked  the  Britifli  line : 
the  flrefs  lay  upon  the  20th,  21ft,  and  62d 
regiments,  mod  part  of  which  were  en- 
gaged for  near  four  hours,  without  inter- 
miffion.  The  grenadiers  and  24th  regi- 
ment, as  well  as  part  of  the  light  infantry, 
were  at  times  engaged.  In  the  conflift 
the  advanced  corps  could  only  act  par- 
tially and  occafionally,  as  it  was  deemed 
unadvifeable  to  evacuate  the  heights  where 
they  were  advantageoufly  pofted. 

General  PhiUips,  at  a  very  critical 
period,  when  the  Britifh  line  was  hard 
prelfed,  by  a  great  fuperiority  of  fire, 
brought  up  four  pieces  of  artillery,  whidi 
reflored  the  aclion,  and  gallantly  led  up 
to  the  20th  regiment,  at  the  utmoft  hazard 
of  his  perfon. 

General  Reidefel  exerted  hlmfelf,  brought 
up  the  Germans,  and  arrived  in  time  to 
charge  the  enemy  with  great  bravery. 

Juft 


4l6  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

Jull  as  the  evening  clofed  in,  the  enemy 
gave  way  one  all  fides  and  left  us  mailers 
of  the  field,  but  darknefs  prevented  a 
purfuit. 

The  troops  lay  that  night  upon  their 
arms,  and  the  next  day  took  a  pofition 
nearly  within  cannon-fhot  of  the  enemy ; 
vve  have  fortified  our  right,  and  our  left 
extends  to  the  brow  of  the  heights,  fo 
as  to  cover  the  meadows,  by  the  river  fide, 
where  the  batteaux  and  hofpitals  are  placed. 
The  47th  regiment,  v/ith  the  regiments 
of  HeJ]}  Hanaii^  are  encamped  in  the 
meadov/s,  as  a  farther  fecurity. 

The  great  valor  difplayed  by  the  Britifli 
troops  encountering  many  obllru6lions, 
and  fuch  a  powerful  enemy,  as,  from  the 
account  of  the  prifoners,  they  had  nearly 
treble  our  numbers  in  the  field,  and  the 
great  advantage  of  receiving  inflant  rein- 
forcements,  mufl,    in   the  eyes  of  thofe 

who 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  417 

who  judge  impartially,  reflect  the  higheft 
honor, 

Notwithilanding  the  gloiy  of  the  day 
remains  on  our  fidCj  I  am  fearful  the  real 
advantages  rcfulting  from  this  hard-fought 
battle,  will  reft  on  that  of  the  Ameri- 
cans, our  army  being  fo  much  weakened 
by  this  engagement,  as  not  to  be  of  fuffi- 
cient  ftrength  to  venture  forth  and  im- 
prove the  vi6lory,  which  may,  in  the  end, 
put  a  ftop  to  our  intended  expedition  j  the 
only  apparent  benefit  gained,  is  that  we 
keep  pofTeffion  of  the  ground  where  the 
engagement  began. 

This  fevere-fought  battle,  and  the  con- 
fequences  refulting  from  it,  will  fully  con- 
firm the  arguments  I  pointed  out  to  you 
relative  to  a  rapid  march.  The  vi6lory 
muft  inevitably  have  been  on  the  fide  of 
the  Americans,  without  our  artillery,  and 
what  a  wretched  ftate  muft  the  many  brave 

Vol.  I.  E  e  foldiers 


4l8  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

foldiers  be  in,  without  any  comfort,  or  an 
hofpital  to  remoye  them  to ! 

The  courage  and  obftinacy  with  which 
the  Americans  fought,  were  the  aftonifli- 
ment  of  every  one,  and  we  now  become 
-fully  convinced,  they  are  not  that  con- 
temptible enemy  we  had  hitherto  imagined 
them,  incapable  of  {landing  a  regular  en- 
gagement, and  that  they  would  only  fxght 
behind  flrong  and  powerful  works. 

We  have  lofl  many  brave  men,  and 
among  that  number  is  to  be  lamented 
Captain  Jones,  of  the  artillery,  who  Was- 
killed  at  his  brigade  of  guns.  The  artil- 
lery of  the  army  diftinguiflied  themfelves 
greatly,  but  this  brigade  in  particular,  the 
■officers  and  men  ftationed  at  thofe  guns 
being  all  killed  and  wounded,  except  Lieu- 
tenant Hadden,  who  had  a  very  narrow 
efcape,  his  cap  being  fliot  away  as  he  was 
fpiking  up  the  cannon. 

Having 


THROUGH    AMERICA/  419 

Having  juft  received  orders  to  attend  a 
working-party,  to  throw  up  a  redoubt,  I 
am  obliged  to  defer  a  further  account  of 
this  engagement  till  my  next.  It  will  no 
doubt  afford  you  much  pleafure  to  hear, 
that  in  ,this  fevere  action  I  have  efcaped 
unhurt. 


Yours,  &c. 


E e  2  LET- 


420  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 


LETTER         XXXIX. 


Camp  at  Freeman^ sF army  Ocl.6,  1777- 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

WE  have  gained  little  more  by  our 
viftory  than  honor,  the  Americans 
working  with  inceflant  labor  to  ilrengthen 
their  leftj  their  right  is  already  unattack- 
able.  Inftead  of  a  difheartened  and  flying 
enemy,  we  have  to  encounter  a  numerous, 
and,  as  we  lately  experienced,  a  refolute 
one,  equally  difpofed  to  maintain  their 
ground  as  ourfelves,  and  commanded  by 
Generals  whofe  aftivity  leave  no  advan- 
tages unimproved. 

The 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  4-21' 

The  day  after  our  late  engagement,  I  had 
as  unpleaiant  a  duty  as  can  fall  to  the  lot 
of  an  officer,  the  command  of  the  party 
fent  out  to  bury  the  dead  and  bring  in  the 
wounded,  and  as  we  encamped  on  the  fpot 
where  the  three  Britiih  regiments  had  been 
engaged,  they  were  very  numerous.  In  a 
former  letter  I  defcribed  to  you  the  fenfa- 
tions  both  before  and  after  a  battle,  but  in 
fuch  an  employment,  as  this  the  feelings  are 
roufed  to  the  utmoft  pitch.  You  that  are 
pleafed  to  compliment  me  on  my  humanity, 
will  think  what  I  muft  have  felt,  on  feeing 
fifteen,  fixteen,  and  twenty  buried  in  one 
hole.  I  however  obferved  a  little  more  de- 
cency than  fome  pai^ties  had  done,  who  left 
heads,  legs  and  arms  above  ground.  No 
other  diftin6lion  is  paid  to  officer  or  foldier, 
than  that  the  officers  are  put  in  a  hole  by 
themfelves.  Our  army  abounded  with 
young  officers,  in  the  fubaltern  line,  and  in 
the  courfe  of  this  unpleafant  duty,  three  of 
the  20th  regiment  were  interred  together, 
E  e  3     V  the 


422.  LN  T  E  R  I  O  R    TRAVELS 

tire  age  of  the  eldefl  not  exceeding  feventeen. 
This  friendly  office  to  the  dead,  though  it 
greatly  affeSls  the  feelings,  was  nothing  to 
the  fcene  in  bringing  in  the  wounded  j  the 
one  were  paft  all  pain,  the  other  in  the 
moft  excruciating  torments,  fending'  forth 
dreadful  groans.  They  had  remained  out 
all  night,  and  from  the  lofs  of  hlood^  and 
want  of  riourifhmefnt,  wereupon  the  point 
of  expiring  with  faiiltriel^':'  fome^'-ef^'^tfein 
begged  they- might  lay  andidie,  others- again 
were  infenfible,  fome  Upon  the  leaft  move- 
ment were  put  in  the  moft  horrid  toiljui^es', 
and  all  had  near  a  mile  to  be  conveyed  to 
the  hofpitals  j  others  at  their  Isdi  g-a^, 
who  for  want  of  our  timely  afTiftankSe'jft'uft 
have  inevitably  expired.  Thefe  poor'efea- 
tures,  perifhing  with  cold  and  weltering  in 
their  blood,  difplayed  fuch  a  fcene,  it  m-uil 
be  a  heart  of  adamant  that  could  not -be 
aife61;ed  at  it,  even  to  a  degree  of  wdak- 
nefs.  ■  ■ 


In 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  423 

In  the  courfc  of  the  laft  a6lion,  Lieute- 
nant Hervey,  of  the  6  2d,  a  youth  of  fixteen, 
and  nephew  to  the  Adjutant-General  of 
the  (iime  name,   received  feveral  wounds, 
and  was  repeatedly  ordered  off  the  field  by 
Colonel  Anflrutherj  but  his  heroic  ardor 
would  not  allow  him  to  quit  the  battle, 
while  he  could  fband  and  fee  his  brave  lads 
fighting  befide  him.     A  ball  ftriking  one 
©f  his  legs,  his  removal  became  abfolutely 
neceflary,  and  while  they  were  conveying 
him  away,  another  wounded  him  mortally. 
In  this  fituation  the  Surgeon  recommended 
him  to  take  a  powerful  dofe  of  opium,  to 
avoid  a  feven  or  eight  hours  life  of  moil 
exquifite  torture :  this  he  immediately  con- 
fented  to,  and  when  the  Colonel  entered 
the  tent  with  Major  Harnage,  who  were 
both  wounded,  they  afked  whether  he  had 
any  affairs  they  could  fettle  for-  him  ?  his 
reply  was,   "  that  being  a  minor,  every 
*'  thing  was  already  adjufted  -,"  but  he  had 
one  requeft,  which  he  had  juft  life  enough 
Ee4  to 


424  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

to  Utter,  ^'  Tell  my  uncle  I  died  like  a  fol- 
'^  dier!"  Where  will  you  find  in  ancient 
Rome  heroifm  fuperior ! 

Beyond  the  ground  where  we  defeated 
our  enemy,  all  is  hoftile  and  dangerous  in 
an  alarming  degree ;  it  fhould  feem  as  if  we 
had  conquered  only  to  preferve  our  repu- 
tation, for  we  have  reaped  little  advantage 
from  our  invincible  efforts  j  the  only  fatis- 
f action  refulting  on  our  part  is,  the  con- 
fcioufnefs  of  having  acquitted  ourfelves 
like  men,  with  a  determination  that  the 
honor  and  renown  of  the  Britifh  arms 
fhould  remain  unfullied.  The  nature  of 
the  country  is  peculiarly  unfavorable  in  re- 
fpe(5l  to  military  operations,  it  being  diffi- 
cult to  reconnoitre  the  enemy,  and  to  ob- 
tain any  intelligence  to  be  relied  on :  the 
roads,  tjie  fituation  of  the  enemy,  the 
grounds  for  procuring  forage,  of  which 
the  army  is  in  great  want,  and  all  parties 
are  in  queft  of,  are  often  attended  with  the 

utmoil 


THROUGH    AMERICA'.  42^ 

utmoft  danger,  and  require  great  bodies  to 
cover  them. 


The  expectation  of  pkinder  which  had 
induced  the  Indians  that  remained  to  ac- 
company us  thus  far,  beginning  now  to 
fail,  and  feeing  they  have  nothing  but  hard- 
fhips  and  warfare,  they  are  daily  decreafing. 
They  were  of  vaft  fervice  in  foraging  and 
fcouting  parties,  it  being  fuited  to  their 
manner;  they  will  not  ftand  a  regular  en- 
gagement, either  through  the  motives  I 
formerly  affigned,  or  from  fear,  but  I  am 
led  to  imagine  the  latter  is  the  cafe,  from 
the  obfervation  I  have  made  of  them  in 
our  late  encounter  with  the  enemy.  The 
Indians  were  running  from  wood  to  wood, 
and  juft  as  our  regiment  had  formed  in  the 
fkirts  of  one,  feveral  of  them  came  up,  and 
by  their  figns  were  converfmg  about  the 
fevere  fire  on  our  right.  Soon  after  the 
enemy  attacked  us,  and  the  very  firft  fire 
the  Indians  run  oix  through  the  wood. 

As 


426  ;iNTERIOR     TRAVELS' 

As  to  the  Canadians,  little  was  to  be  de- 
pended on  their  adherence,  being  eafdy 
difpirited,  with  an  inclination  to  quit  as 
foon  as  there  was  an  appearance  of  danger ; 
nor  was  the  fidelity  of  the  Provincials  to  be 
relied  on  who  had  joined  our  army,  as  they 
withdrew  on  perceiving  the  rcfiftance  of 
the  Americans  would  be  more  formidable 
than  had  been  expelled. 

.  The  defertion  of  the  Indians,  Canadi- 
ans, and  Provincials,  at  a  time  when  their 
fervices  were  moll:  required,  was  exceedingly 
mortifying;  and  however  it  may  prove, 
this  inftance,  will  fliew  future  comman- 
ders v/hat  little  djspendence  is  to  be  placed 
on  fuch  auxiliaries. 

You  will  readily  allow  that  it  is  the 
higheft  tell  of  affedion  in  a  woman,  to 
fliare  with  her  hulband  the  toils  and 
hardfliips  of  the  campaign,  efpecially  fuch 
an  one  as  the  prefent.-    What  a  trial  of 

fortitude 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  427 

fortitude  the  late  a6lion  mufl  have  been, 
through  a  diftrelling  interval  of  long  fuf- 
pence  !  The  ladies  followed  the  route 
of  the  artillery  and  baggage,  and  when 
the  action  began,  the  Baronefs  Reidefel, 
Lady  Harriet  Ackland,  and  the  wives  of 
Major  Harnage  and  Lieutenant  Reynell, 
of  the  62d  regiment,  entered  a  fmall  un- 
inhabited hut,  but  when  the  aclion  became 
general  and  bloody,  the  Surgeons  took 
poifelTion  of  it,  being  the  moft  convenient 
for  the  firfl:  care  of  the  wounded;  in  this 
fituation  were  thefe  ladies  four  hours  to- 
gether, when  the  comfort  they  afforded 
each  other  was  broke  in  upon,  by  Major 
Harnage  being  brought  in  to  the  Surgeons 
deeply  wounded  !  What  a  blow  muffc  the 
'  next  intelligence  be,  that  informed  them 
Lieutenant  Reynell  was  killed  !  Madame 
de  Reidefel  and  Lady  Harriet  could  afford 
but  little  confolation  to  their  companions, 
through  an  anxioufnefs  they  knew  not 
how  to  fmother,  left  it  might  be  foon, 

very 


428  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

vei*y  foon,  their  own  fituation.  The  fears 
of  Lady  Harriet  were  doubly  increafed, 
having  every  apprehenfion,  not  only  for 
her  huiband  but  her  brother. 

Surrounded  by  the  dead  and  the  dying 
for  four  long  hours,  the  groans  of  the 
wounded,  the  difcharge  of  the  mufquetry, 
and  ail  the  buftle  of  arms — my  God ! — 
what  a  flate  for  women  of  fufceptibility ! 
— uncertain  how  the  battle  would  termi- 
nate, and  wliether  each  fliould  clafp  again 
the  object  of  her  deareft  hopes,  for  whofe 
fake  file  had  traverfed  dreary  regions,  en- 
countered hunger  and  wearinefs,  and  wit- 
neiTed  all  the  carnage  of  a  long-difputed 
field — unanimated  by  the  tumult,  and 
without  fharing  the  glory. 

A  long  war  teaches  the  mofl  unwarlike 
nation  the  ufe  of  arms,  and  very  frequent- 
ly puts  them  in  a  condition  to  repair  in 
the  end,  the  lolTes  they  fuflained  in  the 

beginning. 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  429 

beginning.  Such  is  the  prefent  ftate  of 
the  enemy,  who  not  only  now,  but  before 
the  late  action,  were  flrongly  recruited, 
as  powerful  armies  of  militia  fpring  up  in 
every  province.  What  a  ftriking  advan- 
tage there  was  on  the  fide  of  the  Ameri- 
cans, in  the  lafh  engagement  j  but  the  de- 
fe61:'of  numbers  in  our  little  army,  was 
amply  made  up  by  the  courage  of  the 
foldiers,  the  valor  and  condu61:  of  our 
Generals. 

The  officers  who  have  been  killed  and 
wounded  in  the  late  a6lion,  are  much 
greater  in  proportion  than  that  of  the 
foldiers,  which  muft  be  attributed  to  the 
great  execution  of  the  rifle-men,  who 
dire6led  their  fire  againft  them  in  parti- 
cular; in  every  interval  of  fmoke,  they 
were  fure  to  take  off  fome,  as  the  rifle-men 
had  pofl:ed  themfelves  in  high  trees.  Some 
of  the  prifoners  who  were  taken  late  in 
the  day,  faid,  it  was  firmly  believed  in  the 

enemy's 


430  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

enemy's  camp,  that  General  Burgoyne  was 
killed,  which  miftake  was  occafioned  by 
an  Aid-de-Camp  of  General  Phillips,  a 
Captain  Green,  who,  having  the  furniture 
to  his  faddle  laced  and  embroidered,  and 
being  wounded,  fell  from  his  horfe,  the 
rifle-man  that  wxunded  him,  from  that 
circumftance,  affirmed  it  to  be  General 
Burgoyne. 

You  would  be  led  to  imagine,  that  the 
Indians  and  Canadians  would  have  been  of 
great  utility  againft  this  mode  of  fighting, 
but  the  fev/  who  remained  of  the  former, 
could  not  be  brought  within  found  of'  a 
rifie-fliot;  and  the  latter,  who  formerly 
were  very  expert  in  this  fervice,  either  from 
a  great  change  in  their  military  chara6ler, 
or  a  damp  that  was  throv/n  upon  them  by 
the  lofs  of  their  htil  officers,  who  were 
under  the  neceffity  of  expofing  them.felves 
more  than  was  requifite,  in  order  to  bring 
them  at  all  into  a61ion,  were  of  little  ufe. 

Some 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  43! 

Some  of  the  Provincial  troops  were  fervice- 
able,  but  the  only  men  we  had  really  to 
oppofe  them  were  tlie  German  chalFcurs, 
but  their  number  was  very  inferior  to  the 
rifle-men  of  the  enemy. 

Our  prefent  fituation  is  far  from  being 
an  ina6live  one,  the  armies  being  fo  near, 
that  not  a  night  pafles  but  there  is  firing, 
and  continual  attacks  upon  the  advanced 
picquets,  efpecially  thofe  of  the  Germans. 
It  feems  to  be  the  plan  of  the  enemy  to 
harrafs  us  by  conftant  attacks,  which  they 
are  enabled  to  do,  without  fatiguing  their 
army,  from  the  great  fuperiority  of  their 
numbers. 

We  are  now  become  fo  habituated  to  fire, 
that  the  foldiers  feem  to  be  indifferent  to  it, 
^nd  cat  and  fleep  when  it  is  very  near  them ; 
the  officers  reft  in  their  cloaths,  and  the 
field  ofiicers  are  up  frequently  in  the 
night.  The  enemy,  in  front  of  our  quar- 
ter 


432  INTERIOR    TitAVELS 

ter-guard,  within  hearing,  are  cutting  trees 
and  making  works,  and  when  I  have  had 
this  guard,  I  have  been  vifited  by  moft  of 
the  field  officers,  to  Uflen  to  them.  You 
would  fcarcely  believe  it,  but  the  enemy 
had  the  afTurance  to  bring  down  a  fmall 
piece  of  cannon,  to  fire  as  their  morning 
gun,  fo  near  to  our  quarter-guard,  that  the 
wadding  rebounded  againfl  the  works. 

We  have  within  thefe  few  evenings,  ex- 
clufive  of  other  alarms,  been  under  arms 
mofl  of  the  night,  as  there  has  been  a  great 
noife,  like  the  howling  of  dogs,  upon  the 
right  of  our  encampment ;  it  was  imagin- 
ed the  enemy  fet  it  up  to  deceive  us,  while 
they  were  meditating  fome  attack.  The  two 
firfl  nights  this  noife  was  heard.  General 
Frafer  thought  it  to  have  been  the  dogs 
belonging  to  the  officers,  and  an  order  was 
given  for  the  dogs  to  be  confined  within 
the  tents  3  any  that  were  feen  running 
about,  the  Pre^- ofl  had  orders  to  hang  them. 

The 


432  INTERIOR    Tlt,AVEL5 

ter-guard,  within  hearing,  are  cutting  trees 
and  making  works,  and  when  I  have  had 
this  guard,  I  have  been  vifited  by  moll  of 
the  field  officers,  to  Uflen  to  them.  You 
would  fcarcely  believe  it,  but  the  enemy 
had  the  aflurance  to  bring  down  a  fmall 
piece  of  cannon,  to  fire  as  their  morning 
gun,  fo  near  to  our  quarter-guard,  that  the 
wadding  rebounded  againil  the  works. 

We  have  within  thefe  few  evenings,  ex- 
clufive  of  other  alarms,  been  under  arms 
moft  of  the  night,  as  there  has  been  a  great 
noife,  like  the  howling  of  dogs,  upon  the 
right  of  our  encampment ;  it  was  imagin- 
ed the  enemy  fet  it  up  to  deceive  us,  while 
they  were  meditating  fome  attack.  The  two 
firft  nights  this  noife  was  heard,  General 
Frafer  thought  it  to  have  been  the  dogs 
belonging  to  the  officers,  and  an  order  was 
given  for  the  dogs  to  be  confined  within 
the  tents  3  any  that  were  feen  running 
about,  the  Prevofl  had  orders  to  hang  them. 

The 


( .S7/rn7//Q-  '(iie«ier/tl  YvAv^tvs  J^/f/fr/rt/.J 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  433 

The  next  night  the  noife  was  much  greater, 
when  a  detachment  of  Canadians  and  Pro- 
vincials were  fent  out  to  reconnoitre,  and  it 
proved  to  have  arifen  from  large  droves  of 
wolves  that  came  after  the  dead  bodies: 
they  were  fimilar  to  a  pack  of  hounds, 
for  one  fetting  up  a  cry,  they  all  joined, 
and  when  they  approached  a  corpfe,  their 
noife  was  hideous  till  they  had  fcratched 
it  up. 

I  have  fent  you  a  view  of  the  encamp- 
ment of  our  hofpital  tents,  park  of  artiU 
lery,  &c.  from  a  redoubt  we  have  on  the 
oppofite  fide  of  the  river,  by  which  you 
may  be  able  to  form  fome  idea  of  the 
country  we  are  at  prefent  encamped  on. 
This  view  was  taken  by  Sir  Francis  Gierke, 
one  of  General  Burgoyne's  Aid-de-Camps, 
who  has  favored  me  with  a  copy. 

Yours,  &c. 
Vol.  L  F  f  L  ET- 


454  INTERIOR    TRAVEL 


LETTER        XL. 


Camhridgey  in  Neiu  England,  Nov,  10, 1777. 


MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

npHE  difpatches  fent  by  Lord  Peter- 
.  -■-  Iham,  relative  to  our  misfortunes^ 
will  have  reached  England  long  before  this 
comes  to  hand.  Your  furprize,  then,  will 
ceafe  at  receiving  a  letter  dated  from  this 
place.  As  every  little  circumftance  relative 
to  a  campaign,  cannot  be  given  in  an 
official  account  to  be  laid  before  the  public, 
I  fhall  relate  the  tranfa6lions  of  the  army 
till  the  convention  took  place. 

The 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  43^ 

The  day  after  the  date  of  my  laft  letter, 
a  detachment  of  1500  regular  troops,  with 
two  twelve-pounders,  two  howitzers,  and 
fix  fix-pounders,  went  out  between  eleven 
and  twelve  o'clock.  The  reafon,  no  doubt, 
for  the  General's  marching  at  this  time, 
rather  than  earlier  in  the  morning,  was, 
that  in  cafe  we  (hould  not  prove  vi6lorious, 
he  had  the  night  to  favor  his  retreat. 

The  intention  of  this  detachment  was  to 
make  a  movement  to  the  enemy's  left,  not 
only  to  difcover  whether  there  was  a  poffi- 
bility  of  forcing  a  pafTage,  if  necefTary  to 
advance,  or  diflodge  the  enemy,  in  order 
to  favor  a  retreat,  but  like  wife  to  cover  the 
forage  of  the  army,  through  the  fcarcity  of 
which  we  were  in  great  dillrefs.  This 
being  a  project  of  much  importance.  Ge- 
neral Burgoyne  took  with  him  Generals 
Phillips,  Reidefel  and  Frafer,  as  officers 
beft  qualified,  and  with  whofe  affiilance  he 
had  every  hope  the  plan  would  fucceed. 
Ffz  The 


436  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

The  guard  of  the  camp  upon  the  heights 
was  left  to  the  command  of  Brigadier  Ge- 
nerals  Hamilton  and  Specht,  and  the  re- 
doubts and  plain  to  Brigadier  General 
Gall. 

This  day  having  the  quarter-guard  of 
the  regiment,  I  of  courfe  remained  in  camp> 
and  therefore  can  give  you  no  information 
as  to  the  various  pofitions  that  v^^ere  taken ; 
after  the  detachment  had  been  out  fome 
time,  we  heard  a  very  heavy  firing  with 
the  artillery,  and  fome  little  fkirmifliing 
with  finall  arms. 

At  this  time  Major  Campbell,  of  the 
29th  regiment,  the  Field-officer  of  the  day, 
came  to  my  guard,  and  defired  me  to  go 
with  a  ferjeant  and  fome  men,  to  recon- 
noitre acrofs  two  ravines,  in  front  of  the 
guard,  to  liften  if  I  could  hear  the  enemy 
marching  that  way ;  all  was  quiet  in  that 
quarter,  but  as  the  firing  began  to  be  very 

heavy 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  437 

heavy  on  the  left,  I  returned  to  the  guard. 
In  this  little  circuit  I  was  convinced  how- 
much  the  Americans  were  puflied  in  our 
late  a6lion,  on  the  19th  of  September,  for 
I  met  with  feveral  dead  bodies  belonging 
to  the  enemy,  and  amongft  them  v/ere 
laying  clofe  to  each  other,  two  men  and  a 
woman,  the  latter  of  whom  had  her  arms 
extended,  and  her  hands  grafping  car- 
tridges. 

Soon  after  my  return  to  the  guard,  the 
firing  appeared  to  become  general  on  both 
fides,  and  very  heavy  indeed.  Much 
about  this  time  the  bat -men  of  the  army, 
who  went  out  for  forage,  came  galloping 
into  camp,  having  thrown  off  their  forage 
to  fave  their  own  horfes  and  themfelves  by 
flight.  The  gallant  behaviour  of  an  old 
foldier,  of  the  20th  regiment,  deferves  to 
be  remembered  j  he  had  been  wounded  at 
the  battle  of  Minden,  and  as  he  lay  on  the 
ground  a  French  dragoon  rode  over  him, 
F  f  3  and 


43^  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

and  the  horfe's  feet  refted  on  his  breafl; 
after  having  recovered  from  this  accident, 
he  thought  himfelf  invulnerable,  and  held 
the  Americans  in  great  contempt :  when 
they  attacked  the  foraging  party,  the  hardy 
old  veteran,  fitting  upon  the  forage  which 
he  had  got  on  the  horfe,  kept  load- 
ing and  firing  his  piece  at  the  enemy,  and 
in  this  manner  he  brought  his  forage  into 
camp.  Upon  his  arrival,  his  mailer  re- 
primanded him  for  the  danger  he  had 
expofed  both  himfelf  and  his  hori^s  to, 
(when  he  faid)  "  May  it  pleafe  your  honor, 
**  I  could  not  throw  away  my  forage,  I'd 
"  fooner  lofe  my  life,  than  my  poor  horfes 
"  fhould  ftarve." 

You  muft  allow  this  defeat  of  th6  bat- 
men, and  a  number  of  wounded  men 
coming  into  camp,  was  no  very  favorable 
omen  of  fuccefs  3  nor  can  you  conceive  the 
forrow  vifible  on   General  Frafer's  being 

brought 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  439 

brought  ill  wounded,  your  old  friends 
Campbell  and  Johnfton,  of  our  regiment, 
on  each  fide  of  his  horfe,  fupporting  him. 
I  cannot  defcribe  to  you  the  fcene  j  it  was. 
fuch  that  the  imagination  muft  help  to 

paint. The  officers,    all   anxious   and 

eagerly  enquiring  as  to  his  wound — the 
down-caft  look  and  melancholy  that  was 
vifible  to  every  one,  as  to  his  fituation,  and 
all  the  anfwer  he  could  make  to  the  many 
enquiries,  w^as  a  fhake  of  his  head,  ex- 
preflive  that  it  was  all  over  with  him.— 
So  much  was  he  beloved,  that  not  only 
officers  and  foldiers,  but  all  the  women 
flocked  round,  folicitous  for  his  fate. 

When  he  had  reached  his  tent,  and  was 
recovered  a  little  from  the  faintnefs  occa- 
fioned  by  lofs  of  blood,  he  told  thofe 
around  him,  that  he  faw  the  man  who 
fhot  him,  he  was  a  rifle-man,  aild  up  in 
a  tree;  the  ball  entered  a  little  below  his 
Ff4  bread. 


44^  -INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

breafl,  and  penetrated  juft  below  the 
back  bone.  After  the  Surgeon  had  drefT- 
ed  his  wound,  he  faid  to  him  very  com- 
pofedly,  "  Tell  me,  Sone,  to  the,  beil 
"  of  your  fkill  and  judgment,  if  you 
"  think  my  wound  is  mortal."  When  he 
replied,  "  I  am  forry,  Sir,  to  inform  you, 
'*  that  it  is,  and  that  you  cannot  poffibly 
"  live  four  and  twenty  hours."  He  then 
called  for  pen  and  ink,  and  after  making 
his  will,  and  diftributing  a  few  little  tokens 
of  regard  to  the  officers  of  his  fuite,  de« 
fired  that  he  might  be  removed  to  the  ge-^- 
neral  hofpital,  .o 

In  camp,  and  not  in  perfonal  danger,  as 
the  mind  is  left  to  reflection,  it  is  impof- 
fible  to  defcribe  how  much  it  is  afFedled  in 
beholding  the  wounded  continually  coming 
in,  amid  an  incefiant  roar  of  cannon  and 
mufquetry,  where  perhaps  many  brave  fel- 
lows are  dying  for  theij'  country — perhaps 

too" 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  44I 

too  in  an  unfuccefsful  battle !  I  can  never 
confent  to  be  left  in  camp  again. 

After  many  hours  impatient  anxiety,  to- 
wards the  clofe  of  the  evening,  the  grand 
ilroke  came.  I  had  little  hope  to  become 
a  partaker  in  the  a6lion  j  but  about  that 
time  the  troops  came  pouring  into  camp 
as  fall  as  they  could,  and  fliortly  after  Ge- 
nerals Burgoyne,  Phillips  and  ReidefeL 
It  is  impoffible  to  defcribe  the  anxioufnefs 
depi6led  in  the  countenance  of  General 
Burgoyne,  who  immediately  rode  up  to  the 
quarter-guards,  and  when  he  came  to  that 
of  our  regiment,  I  was  acrofs  a  ravine, 
pofting  a  ferj cant's  guard.  Upon  enquir- 
ing eagerly  for  the  officer,  I  came  to  him, 
"  Sir,  faid  the  General^  you  muft  defend 
*'.this  poft  to  the  very  laft  man."  You 
may  eafily  conceive,  upon  receiving  thofe 
orders,  I  judged  every  thing  to  be  in  a  daur 
gerous  fituation.  There  was  not  a  mo- 
ment   for   thought,     for   the    Americans 

flormed 


44  2  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

ftormed  with  great  fury  the  poft  of  the 
light-infantry,  under  the  command  of 
Lord  Balcarres,  rufliing  clofe  to  the  lines, 
under  a  fevere  fire  of  grape-fhot  and  fmall 
arms.  Tliis  pofl  was  defended  with  great 
fpirit,  and  the  enemy,  led  on  by  General 
Arnold,  as  gallantly  allaulted  the  works ; 
but  on  the  General's  being  wounded,  the 
enemy  were  repulfed,  which  was  not  till 
after  dark.  In  this  attack,  I  was  but  an 
obferv^er,  as  our  quarter-guard  was  fome 
diftance  from  the  lines,  but  not  fufficiently 
fo  as  to  be  out  of  danger,  as  the  balls  were 
continually  dropping  down  amongil  ui\ 
In  order  that  you  may  form  fome  idea  with 
what  obftinacy  the  enemy  aflaulted  the 
lines,  from  the  commencement,  at  which 
time  it  was  dark,  till  they  were  repulfed, 
there  was  a '  continual  fheet  of  fire  along 
the  lines,  and  in  this  attack  we  were  fully 
convinced  of  what  eifential  fervice  our  ar- 
tillery was. 

During 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  443 

During  the  time  the  enemy  were  fo 
vigorouily  attacking  our  lines,  a  paity 
affaulted  thofe  of  the  Germans,  com- 
manded by  Colonel  Breyman,  but  either 
for  want  of  courage,  or  prefence  of  mind, 
they,  upon  the  firft  attack  of  the  enemy, 
were  ftruck  with  fuch  a  terror,  that  in- 
ftead  of  gallantly  fuftaining  their  lines,  they 
looked  on  all  as  loft,  and  after  firing  one 
volley,  haflily  abandoned  them  j  that  brave 
officer.  Colonel  Breyman,  in  endeavouring 
to  rally  his  foldiers,  was  unfortunately 
killed.  By  the  enemy's  obtaining  pofTefTion 
of  the  German  lines,  they  gained  an 
opening  upon  our  right  and  rear. 

In  this  engagement  we  lofl  many  brave 
officers,  to  add  to  the  fate  of  General 
Frafer,  General  Burgoyne's,  Aid-de-Camp, 
Sir  Francis  Gierke,  was  killed,  Colonel 
Ackland  wounded  and  a  prifoner.  Major 
Williams,  Captain  Blomfield,  and  Lieu- 
tenant  Howarth,    of  the  artillery,   were 

likewife 


444  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

likewife  prifoners,  the  latter  wounded; 
Major  Blomfield's  v/ound  was  very  re- 
markable, a  fhpt  paffing  through  both 
cheeks,  without  hurting  the  iniide  of  his 
mouth.  Your  friend  Howarth's  wound  I 
hear,  is  in  his  knee ;  it  is  very  fnigular,  but 
he  was  prepolTeiTed  with  an  idea  of  being 
wounded,  for  when  the  orders  came  for  the 
detachment's  going  out,  he  was  playing 
picquet  with  me,  and  after  reading  the 
orders,  and  that  his  brigade  of  guns  were 
to  go,  he  faid  to  me,    "  God  blefs  you 

"  A ,  farewell,  for  I  know  not  how  it 

*'-is,  but  I  have  {ivzngQ  prefentment  that  I 
"  fhall  either  be  killed  or  wounded."  I 
was  rather  furprized  at  fuch  an  expreffion, 
as  he  is  of  a  gay  and  chearful  difpo- 
fition,  and  cannot  but  fay,  that  during  the 
little  time  I  could  beflow  in  reflection  that 
day,  I  continually  dwelt  upon  his  remark, 
but  he  is  now  happily,  in  a  fair  way  of 
recovery.      •  ..-q  ^;, 

After 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  445 

After   Major   Ackland    was   wounded, 
when    he   oblcrved    the    army  were    re- 
treating, he  rcqaefted  Captain  Simpfon,  of 
the    3 1  ft  regiment,  who  was  an  intimate 
friend,    to   help   him   into   camp,    upon 
which,  being  a  very  ftout  man,  he  conveyed 
the  Major  on  his  back  a  confiderable  way, 
when  the  enemy  purfuing  fo  rapidly,  he 
was  obliged  to  leave  him  behind  to  fave 
himfelf.     As  the  Major  lay  on  the  ground, 
he  cried  out  to  the  men  who  were  running 
by  him,  that  he  would  give  fifty  guineas 
to  any  foldier  who  would  convey  him  into 
camp.     A  flout  grenadier   inflantly  took 
him  on  his  back,  and  was  haftening  into 
camp,  when  they  were  overtaken  by  the 
enemy  and  made  prifoners .     Here  you  mufl 
naturally  conceive  what  were  the  feelings 
of  Lady  Harriet,  who,  after  hearing  the 
whole  of  the  a6lion,  at  lafl  received  the 
fhock  of  her  individual  misfortune,  mixed 
with  the  general  calamity  of  the  defeat. 

Whatever 


446  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

Whatever  favorable  opinion  the  General 
had  entertained  of  our  late  encampment, 
after  this  attack  he  thought  our  flank  liable 
to  be  turned,  and  it  would  be  impoflible  to 
accomplifh  an  honorable  retreat,  fearing 
the  only  fecurity  of  the  army  would  con- 
fift  in  an  ignominious  flight,  as  our  works 
would  by  no  means  refifl:  cannon-fliot. 
Before  we  quitted  them,  we  heard  the 
enemy  bringing  up  their  artillery,  no 
doubt  with  a  view  to  attack  us  at  day- 
break; therefore,  laboring  under  thefe 
apparent  difadvantages,  we  had  orders  to 
quit  our  prefent  fituation  during  the  night, 
and  take  pofl:  upon  the  heights,  above  the 
hofpital ;  by  this  movement  the  whole  of 
the  army  were  now  aiTembred  upon  the 
heights  and  plain,  of  which  you  have  a 
view  in  the  drawing  I  fent  you. 

Our  late  movement,  which  was  efFe6t- 
ed  without  any  lofs,  occafioned  the  enemy 
to     make    a    new  difpofition,    and     on 

the 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  447 

the  8th  of  0£lober,  the  baggage  and 
incumbrances  of  the  army  being  removed, 
we  offered  battle,  anxious  for  a  confli6l 
in  a  plain,  where  we  could  difcern  our 
enemy,  as  hitherto  all  our  a6lions  had  been 
in  the  woods,  where  it  is  impofTible  exa6lly 
to  prefcribe  to  an  army,  or  feparate  body, 
how  to  govern  itfelf  j  every  different  mo- 
tion of  the  enemy,  and  the  various  ac- 
counts a  General  receives  of  them,  ought 
to  make  him  alter  his  meafures,  and  there 
is  no  laying  down  to  a  commanding  offi- 
cer of  any  corps,  other  than  general  rules, 
the  reft  depending  on  his  own  condu6i:, 
and  the  behaviour  of  his  troops. 

At  one  time  we  fully  imagined  it  was 
the  intention  of  the  enemy  to  have  at- 
tacked us,  as  a  very  large  body,  confifting 
of  feveral  brigades,  drew  up  in  line  of 
battle,  with  artillery  j  and  began'  to  can- 
nonade us.  In  return,  an  howitzer  was 
fired,  and,  as  was  intended,  the  (hell  fell 

fhort, 


448  INTERIOR     TRAVEiLS 

Ihort,  upon  which  the  enemy  fettlng  up  a 
great  ihout,  were  very  much  encouraged, 
and  kept  on  cannonading.  The  next  time 
the  howitzer  was  fo  elevated,  that  the  iliell 
fell  into  the  very  center  of  a  large  column, 
and  immediately  burfV,  which  fo  difmayed 
them,  that  they  fled  off  into  the  woods, 
and  fhewed  no  other  intentions  of  an 
attack ;  indeed  their  cautious  condudt  dur- 
ing the  whole  day  ftrongly  marked  a  dif- 
inclination  to  a  general  ad:ion. 

Early  on  this  morning  General  Frafer 
breathed  his  laft,  and  at  his  particular  re- 
queft,  was  buried,  without  any  parade,  in 
the  great  redoubt,  by  the  foldiers  of  his 
own  corps.  About  fun-fet,  the  corpfe 
was  carried  up  the  hill  5  the  procelTion 
was  in  view  of  both  armies  j  as  it  palled 
by  Generals  Burgoyne^  Phillips  and  Rei- 
defel,  they  were  ftruck  at  the  plain  fimpli- 
city  of  the  parade,  being  only  attended  by 
the  officer?  of  his  fuite^  but  left  the  army, 

not 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  449 

not  being  acquainted  with  the  privacy  that 
was  defired,  and  conftrue  it  into  ncgle6l, 
and  urged  by  a  natural  wifli  to  pay  the  lail 
honors  to  him,  in  the  eyes  of  the  whole 
army,  they  joined  the  proceflion. 

The  enemy,  with  an  inhumanity  pec\i- 
liar  to  Americans,  cannonaded  the  pro- 
ceflion  as  it  pafTed,  and  during  the  fervice 
over  the  grave.  The  account  given  me  by 
your  friend  Lieut.  Freeman  was,  that  there 
appeared  an  exprefllve  mixture  of  fenfibihty 
and  indignation  upon  every  countenance — 
the  fcene  mufl  have  been  afFe(5ling. 

In  the  evening  intelligence  was  brought 
that  the  enemy  were  marching  to  turn  our 
right  5  we  could  prevent  this  by  no  other 
means  than  retreating  towards  Saratoga. 
A  retreat  is  a  matter  of  the  highefl  con- 
fequence,  and  requires  the  greatell  condu6l 
in  a  General,  as  well  as  refolution  in  both 
officers  and  foldiers,  for  the  leaft  mifma- 

VoL.  L  G  g  nagement 


450  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

nagement  puts  all  into  confufion.  A  good 
retreat  is  looked  on  as  the  chef  d' ceiivre  of 
a  Commander.  Every  one  of  the  advanced 
corps  felt  feverely  the  lofs  of  General 
Frafer,  as  he  ufed  fi'equently  to  fay,  that 
if  the  army  had  the  misfortune  to  retreat, 
he  would  enfure,  with  the  advanced  corps, 
to  bring  it  off  in  fafety  ;  this  was  a  piece 
of  Generalfhip  he  was  not  a  little  vain 
of,  for  during  the  war  in  Germany,  he 
made  good  his  retreat  with  five  hundred 
chafTeurs,  in  fight  of  the  French  army. 
But  as  covering  the  retreat  of  the  army 
was  of  the  utmoft  confequence.  General 
Phillips  took  the  command  of  the  rear- 
guard, which  confifted  of  the  advanced 
corps. 

At  nine  o'clock  at  night  the  army  began 
to  move.  General  Reidefel  commanding 
the  van-guard.  Our  retreat  was  made 
within  mufquet-fliot  of  the  enemy,  and 
though  greatly  encumbered  with  baggage, 

without 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  45 1 

without  a  fingle  lofs.  It  was  near  eleven 
o'clock  before  the  rear-guard  marched,  and 
for  near  an  hour,  we  every  moment  ex- 
pected to  be  attacked,  for  the  enemy  had 
formed  on  the  fame  fpot  as  in  the  morning; 
we  could  difcern  this  by  the  lanterns  that 
the  officers  had  in  their  hands,  and  their 
riding  about  in  the  front  of  their  line, 
but  though  the  Ameiicans  put  their  army 
in  motion  that  night,  they  did  not  purfue 
us,  in  our  retreat,  till  late  the  next  day. 
Deferring  the  fequel  of  our  misfortunes 
till  another  opportunity,  and  willing  to 
embrace  a  very  favorable  one  that  now 
prefents  itfelf  of  fending  this,   I  remain. 


Yours,  &c. 


Gg  2  LET- 


452  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 


LETTER        XLI. 


Camhridget  in  Ne^-w  Englatid Nov.  15,  1777. 
MY  DEAR  FRIEND, 

AFTER  a  march,  in  which  we  were 
liable  to  be  attacked  in  front,  flank 
and  rear,  the  army,  on  the  9th,  at  day- 
break, reached  an  advantageous  ground, 
and  took  a  pofition  very  defirable  to 
have  received  the  enemy ;  we  halted  to  re- 
frefli  the  troops,  and  to  give  time  for 
the  batteaux  to  come  abreaft  of  the  army. 
A  few  days  provifion  was  delivered  out, 
and  it  was  apprehended  it  might  be  the  laft, 
for  though  the  movement  of  the  army  kept 
pace  with  the  batteauxy   ftill  there  were 

many 


THROUGH    AMERICA.'  453 

many  parts  of  the  river  where  they  might 
have  been  attacked  to  great  advantage,  and 
where  the  army  could  afford  them  little 
prote6lion. 

After  the  troops  had  been  refrefhed,  and 
the  batteaiix  came  up,  the  army  proceeded 
forward,  in  very  fevere  weather,  and  thro* 
exceeding  bad  roads,  and  late  at  night  ar- 
rived at  Saratoga,infuch  aftate  of  fatigue, 
that  the  men  had  not  ftrength  or  inclina- 
tion to  cut  wood  and  make  fires,  but  rather 
fought  fleep  in  their  wet  cloaths  and  on 
the  wet  ground,  under  a  heavy  rain  that 
ftill  continued,  and  which  began  to  fall 
w^hen  we  firft  retreated. 

The  incefTant  rain  during  our  retreat 
was  rather  a  favorable  circumflance,  for 
though  it  impeded  the  army  in  their  march, 
and  increafed  its  difficulties,  it  ferved  at  the 
fame  time  to  retard,  and  in  a  great  mea- 
fure  prevented,  the  purfuit  of  the  enemy  s 

Gg3  it 


454  .INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

it  however  occafioned  one  very  unhappy 
neceffity,  that  of  abandoning  our  hofpitals 
with  the  fick  and  wounded:  but  great 
praife  is  due  to  the  humanity  of  General 
Gates,  for  upon  the  very  firft  intelUgence 
of  it,  he  immediately  fent  forward  a  few 
light  horfe,  to  prqtecl,  them  from  infult 
and  plunder.  -. ,     - 

The^heavy  rain  afforded  another  confo- 
lation  to  the  men  4wr]g  the  march,  which 
was,  in  cafe  the  enemy  had  attacked  us, 
the  fate  of  the  day  would  have  refled  folely 
upon  the  bayonet :  this  idea  prevailed  fo 
ftrongly  in  the  minds  of  the  men,  that 
notwith  (landing  they  were  acquainted  with 
the  fuperiority  of  the  enemy,  an  attack 
feemed  to  be  the  wifh  of  every  foidier. 

When  the  army  were  about  to  move 
after  we  halted,  the  cares  and  anxieties 
with  which  the  General,  no  doubt,  muft 
have  been  furrounded,    were  greatly  in- 

creafed 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  455 

creafed  by  a  circumftance  of  private  diflrefs, 
for  at  this  time  a  meflage  was  delivered 
to  him  from  that  amiable  woman,  Lady 
Harriet  Ackland,  exprefllng  an  earneft 
defire,  if  it  did  not  militate  againft  the 
General's  wiflies,  of  pafling  to  the  camp 
of  the  enemy,  and  requefting  General 
Gates's  permiflion  to  attend  her  hufband, 
at  the  fame  time  fubmitting  it  entirely  to 
the  General's  opinion. 

The  General,  although  he  had  been  fully 
convinced  of  the  patience  and  fortitude 
with  which  flie  had  already  encountered 
the  many  trying  fituations  that  had  be- 
fallen her,  could  not  but  exprefs  his  aflo- 
nifhment  at  this  propofal,  as  it  appeai'ed 
an  effort  beyond  human  nature,  that  a  wo- 
man of  fuch  a  tender  and  delicate  frame  as 
her's,  fhould  be  capable  of  fuch  an  under- 
taking as  that  of  delivering  herfelf  to  the 
enemy — ^probaby  in  the  night,  and  uncer- 
tain of  what  hands  fhe  might  fall  into— f- 
G  g  4  efpecially 


45^  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

efpecially  after  fo  long  an  agitation  of  the 
fpirits,  not  only  exhaufled  by  want  of  reft, 
but  abfolutely  want  of  food,  and  drenched 
in  rains  for  near  twelve  hours — and  this  at 
a  time  too,  when  far  advanced  in  a  ftate 
where  every  tender  care  and  precaution  be- 
comes abfolutely  requifite ! In  the  har- 

ralfed  and  fatigued  fituation  fhe  was  in,  it 
was  no  little  chagrin  to  the  General,  that 
he  could  afford  her  no  alliftance  to  cheer 
up  her  fpirits  for  fuch  an  vmdertaking ;  he 
had  not  even  a  cup  of  wine  to  offer  her^ — 
but  from  a  foldier's  wife  fhe  obtained  a 
little  rum  and  dirty  water !  With  this  poor 
refrefhment  fhe  fet  out  in  an  open  boat, 
which  was  furnifhed  by  the  General,  with 
a  few  lines  of  recommendation  to  General 
Gates,  for  his  prote6lion.  The  Chaplain 
that  officiated  at  General  Frafer's  funeral 
undertook  to  accompany  her,  and  with  her 
waiting-maid,  and  the  Major's  'valet  de 
chamhre  (who  then  had  a  ball  in  his  fhoul- 
der,  which  he  received  in  the  late  g^clion, 

in 


THROUGH    AM  ERIC  a7  457 

in  fearching  for  the  Major  after  he  was 

wounded)  fhe  rowed  down  the   river  to 

meet  the  enemy. But  to  return  to  the 

army. 

It  was  not  till  after  day-light,  on  the 
morning  of  the  loth,  that  the  artillery  and 
the  lail  of  the  troops  pafTed  the  Fifh-Kill, 
and  took  pofition  upon  the  heights  and  in 
the  redoubts  we  had  formerly  conflru6led. 
On  our  arrival  at  Saratoga,  a  corps  of  the 
enemy,  between  five  and  fix  hundred,  were 
difcovered  throwing  up  intrenchments  on 
the  heights,  but  upon  our  approach  re- 
tired over  the  ford  of  the  Hudfon's  river> 
and  joined  a  body  pofled  to  oppofe  our 
pafiage  there. 

A  detachment  of  artificers,  under  a 
ftrong  efcort,  were  fent  to  repair  bridges, 
and  open  a  road  on  the  weft  fide  of  the 
river  to  Fort  Edward ;  but  the  enemy  being 
ilrongly  polled  on  the  heights  of  the  Fifla- 

Kill, 


45^  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

Kill,  and  making  a  difpofition  to  give  us 
battle,  that  efcort  vi^as  recalled.  The  Pro- 
vincials who  were  left  to  cover  the  artifi- 
xers,  upon  a  very  flight  attack  ran  away, 
leaving  them  to  efcape  as  they  could,  with- 
out a  poffibility  of  their  performing  any 
work. 

.  While  thefe  different  movements  were 
carrying  on,  the  batteaux  v/ith  provifions 
were  frequently  fired  upon  from  the  oppo» 
fite  fide  of  the  river,  fome  of  them  were 
loft,  and  feveral  men  killed  and  wounded 
in  thofe  that  remained. 

On  the-  nth  the  enemy  continued  the 
attacks  upon  the  batteaux,  feveral  were 
taken  and  retaken,  but  their  fituation 
being  nearer  to  the  main  force  of  the 
enemy  than  to  ours,  it  was  judged  necef- 
fary  to  land  the  provifions,  and  fend  them 
up  the  hill,  as  it  was  impofiible  to  fecure 
them  by  any  other  means :  this  was  effefted 

under 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  459 

under  a  heavy  fire,  and  with  the  greatell 
difficulty. 

The  intentions  of  the  enemy  became 
now  very  apparent,  and  no  doubt  General 
Gates  thought  he  fhould  be  able  to  gain 
more  advantage  from  the  fituation  and 
.circumftances  of  our  army,  by  cutting 
off  our  provifions,  and  otherwife  harraffing 
and  diftreffing  us,  by  the  galling  fire  of 
the  riflemen,  who  were  every  where  placed 
about  in  the  woods,  than  by  giving  us 
battle,  and  running  the  chance  of  a  vic- 
toiy. 

The  poffible  means  of  farther  retreat  were 
confidered  in  a  council  of  war,  compofed 
of  the  General  officers ;  and  the  only  one 
that  feemed  expedient,  or  in  the  leafl:  prac- 
ticable, was  attended  with  fuch  danger,  as 
afforded  little  hopes  of  fuccefs,  but  never- 
thelefs  the  refolve  was  it  Ihould  be  attempted. 
This, was. by  a  night  march  to  Fort  Ed- 
ward, 


466  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

ward,  the  troops  carrying  their  provifions 
on  their  backs,  leaving  artillery,  baggage, 
and  other  incumbrances  behind,  and  to 
force  a  pafTage  at  the  ford,  either  above  or 
below  that  fort. 

While  the  army  Were  preparing  for  this 
bold  and  refolute  undertaking,  fome  fcouts 
returned  with  intelligence,  that  the  enemy 
were  flrongly  intrenched  oppofite  thofe 
fords,  and  poffelTed  a  camp  in  force  on  the 
high  grounds,  between  Fort  Edward  and 
Fort  George,  with  cannon ;  exclufive  of 
which,  they  had  parties  down  the  whole 
ihore  to  watch  our  motions,  and  fome 
poib  fo  near  us,  on  our  fide  of  the  water, 
that  it  was  impoffible  the  army  could  make 
the  leafl  motion  without  being  difcovered. 

Notwithftanding  the  number  of  the 
Americans,  which  was  hourly  increafmg, 
General  Gates  a6led  with  as  much  precau- 
tion as  if  the  fuperiority  was  on  our  fide, 

as 


THROUGH     AMERICA.  46 1 

as  the  ground  where  he  encamped  was, 
from  its  nature  and  the  works  he  had 
thrown  up,  inattackable. 

Our  march  to  Fort  Edward  being  thus 
prevented,  the  army  was  polled  as  well  as 
the  ground  w^ould  admit  of,  fortifying  our 
camp,  and  preparing  for  any  attempt  that 
the  enemy,  from  our  reduced  flate,  might 
be  induced  to  make. 

The  ftate  and  fituation  of  our  army  W'as 
tmly  calamitous  1 — Worn  down  by  a  feries 
of  inceflant  toils  and  ftubborn  aftions ; 
abandoned  in  our  utm.oft  diftrefs  by  the 
Indians;  weakened  by  the  defertion,  and 
difappointed  as  to  the  efficacy  of  the  Cana- 
dians and  Provincials,  by  their  timidity  ; 
the  regular  troops  reduced,  by  the  late 
heavy  loiles  of  many  of  our  beft  men  and 
diftinguiflied  officers,  to  only  3500  effe6live 
jnen,  of  which  number  there  were  not 
quite  2000  Britifh ;— in  this  flate  of  weak- 

nefs 


462  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

nefs,  no  poflibility  of  retreat,  our  provi- 
fions  nearly  exhauiled,  and  invefted  by  an 
army  of  four  times  our  number,  that 
almofl  encircled  us,  who  would  not  attack 
us  from  a  knowledge  of  our  fituation,  and 
whofe  works  could  not  be  affaulted  in  any 
part.  In  this  perilous  fituation  the  men 
lay  continually  upon  their  arms,  the  enemy 
incefTantly  cannonading  us,  and  their  rifxC 
and  cannon  lliot  reaching  every  part  of  our 
camp. 

True  courage  flibmits  with  great  diffi- 
culty to  defpair,  and  in  the  midft  of  all 
thofe  dangers  and  arduous  trials,  the 
valor  and  conftancy  of  the  Britifli  troops 
were  aftonifhing :  they  ftill  retained  their 
fpirits,  in  hopes  that  either  the  long- 
expefted  relief  would  arrive  from  New- 
York,  which  the  army  implicitly  believed, 
from  an  order  that  had  been  given  out  at 
our  camp  at  Still-Water,  ftating  that  pow- 
erful armies  were  to  a6t  in  eo-operation 

with 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  463 

with  ours,  or  that  the  enemy  would  attack 
us,  which  was  moft  fervently  wilhed  for, 
as  it  would  have  given  us  an  opportunity 
of  dying  gallantly,  or  extricating  ourfelves 
with  honor. 

After  waiting  the  whole  of  the  13th  day 
of  Oftober,  in  anxious  expectation  of  what 
it  would  produce,  and  to  which  time  it 
had  been  refolved  to  endure  all  extremities 
in  maintaining  our  ground  againft  the 
enemy — no  profpe6l  of  afTiflance  appearing, 
and  no  rational  ground  of  hope  remaining, 
it  was  thought  proper,  in  the  evening,  to 
take  an  exa6l  account  of  the  provifions 
left,  which  amounted  to  no  more  than  three 
days  fhort  allowance. 

In  this  ftate  of  diflrefs,  a  council  of  war 
was  called,  to  which  all  the  Generals,  Field- 
officers,  and  commanding-officers  of  corps 
were  fummoned,  when  it  was  unanimoufly 
agreed,  that  in  the  prefent  circumftances 

we 


464  INTERIOR     TRAVELS 

we  could  do  no  other  than  treat  with  the 
enemy. 

Overtures  were  accordingly  propofed  to 
General  Gates,  who  harflily  reje6ted  them, 
rerninding  us  of  our  enervated  ftate,  from 
a  toilfome  campaign,  diminifhed  numbers, 
fcanty  fubfiftence,  and  the  impoflibility  of 
frefh  fupply.  Thefe  reafons  were  urged  on 
the  fpur  of  the  moment,  minute  confidera- 
tion  denied,  and  a  decifive  anfwer  required. 
We  felt  their  force,  but  compliance  was 
never  thought  of,  it  would  have  too  feverely 
wounded  the  dignity  of  our  military  cha- 
ra6ler. 

The  refufal  of  our  overtures  was  morti- 
fying in  the  extreme,  yet  inftead  of  depref- 
fmg,  it  raifed  our  magnanimity  ^  the  inter- 
val of  fufpence.  Indeed,  difturbed  our  re- 
pofe ;  anxiety  was  awake  to  confequences — 
itill  we  adhered  to  our  purpofe  with  manly 
firxnnefs.     A  flate  of  fufpence,  to  a  refleft- 

ing 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  465 

ing  mind,  is  worfe  than  death ;  that  was 
our  ftate  till  the  convention  was  finally 
adjufted. 

The  obftacles  to  the  accomplifhment  of 
the  convention  at  firil  appeared  infur- 
aiionntable,  for  General  Gates  conceived 
that  our  complicated  embarraffments  fuf- 
iicicntly  juflified  him,  according  to  the 
rules  of  war,  in  infifting  on  an  uncondi- 
tional furrender  of  the  army  :  they  were 
difdainfuUy  rejected,  and  he  was  peremp- 
torily informed,  that  notwithftanding  our 
reduced  numbers,  if  he  ftill  perfifted,  our 
iinal  appeal  fhould  be  to  the  fword,  as  the 
Britifli  troops  would  rufli  upon  the.  enemy, 
determined  to  give  no  quarter. 

General  Gates,  from  having  been  once  in 
our  fervice,  was  fully  convinced  of  what 
exertions  Britifh  troops  were  capable,  in 
any  dangerous  emergency  j  he  was  there- 
fore quickly  fenfible  of  the  impolicy  of 
H  h  coercion, 


466  INTERIOR    TRAVELS 

coercion,  and  with  very  great  prudence 
declined  hazarding  a  frefh  conflict  with 
men  who  preferred  death  to  a  difgraceful 
fubmiffion.  Awed  by  our  firmnefs,  he 
retraced  his  demands,  and  honorable 
terms  were  granted;  the  particulars,  as 
they  are  undoubtedly  in  the  Gazette,  I  (hall 
of  courfe  pafs  over. 

ITo  a  reverfe  of  fortune  we  yielded  with 
becoming  dignity,  but  our  honor  was  fafe, 
and  equanimity  of  temper  marked  our  cha- 
rafter,  even  in  advernty. 

General  Burgoyne  has  done  every  thing 
in  this  convention  for  the  good  of  the 
troops,  confiftent  with  the  fervice  of  his 
King  and  country  :  all  that  wifdom,  valor, 
and  a  ftri6l  fenfe  of  honor  could  fuggefl. 
Confident,  no  doubt,  of  having  exerted 
himfelf  with  indefatigable  fpirit  in  their 
fervice,  he  will  defpife  popular  clamor,  truly 
ienfible  that  no  perfed  and  unbiafled  judge 

of 


THROUGH    AMERICA.  467 

of  a6lual  fervice  can  condemn  him.     AddU 
fon  has  fomewhere  obferved, 

**  'Tis  not  in  mortals  to  command  fuccefs  !'* 

And  as  the  populace,  in  this  verfatile 
age  ftartle  at  untoward  events,  fo  pur  Ge- 
neral is  liable  to  be  expofed  to  public  cen- 
fure.  Ample  juftice  muft  raife  him  in  the 
mind  of  every  liberal  man  who  will  judge 
with  caution,  acquit  him  with  honor,  and 
take    him  to  his  heart   as    the    foldier's 

friend as  a  man  of  cool  judgment,  but 

ardent  for  glory as  courageous  but  un- 
fortunate ! 


END  OF    THE   FIRST   VOLUME. 


I( 


.> 


Deacidified  using  the  Bookkeeper  process. 
Neutralizing  agent:  Magnesium  Oxide 
Treatment  Date:  Jan.  2003 

PreservationTechnologies 

A  WORLD  LEADER  IN  PAPER  PRESERVATION 

m  Thomson  P?'-  -j^  •-. 
Cranberry  Tovjr 
(724)  779-21 1 1 


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